Author Archives: Perennial Gardens, Inc.

Entrance Way Evergreens

Cool and classic or chic and contemporary, no matter what your style, you’ll always be proud of an entrance flanked with beautiful containers highlighting just-right evergreens. In this case, “evergreen” doesn’t necessarily mean a conifer, either – many other shrubs remain green in the winter and can be beautiful showpieces welcoming guests to your home.

Planting Your Container

Entrance way evergreens are generally planted in containers and frame a doorway, walkway or arch. If you truly want your evergreens to take center stage, opt for more understated, neutral containers, but select shapes that match the architecture of your home. You can opt for a boldly colored container, but take care that the container’s decorations won’t overwhelm your evergreens.

You will want to use high quality potting soil for the container to provide adequate nutrition for your evergreens to thrive. Also pay careful attention to the moisture levels, watering the plants appropriately – containers often need more frequent watering than plants in your landscape. You can rotate the containers regularly to help the plants get even sun exposure, and regular fertilizing will help keep them healthy.

If you’re not sure how to plant a container, try this simple formula: “Use a thriller, filler and spiller.” Thriller refers to the tallest or showiest plant, the one that immediately catches the eye. The fillers are the plants surrounding the thriller that add more structure and bulk to the arrangement, filling in empty spaces. The spillers are plants to grow over, and soften, the edge of the container, giving it a more natural, organic look.

Here’s a listing of “thriller” plants to consider for your door decor. We can make recommendations of dwarf cultivars of many of these plants. Dwarfs will take longer to out-grow their container. Happy potting!

Shade
Azalea*
Boxwood
Camellia*
Evergreen Viburnum*
Japanese Andromeda*
Heavenly Bamboo*
Mountain Laurel*

Sun
Arborvitae
False Cypress
Juniper
Heavenly Bamboo*
Holly
Pine
Spruce
Yews
Yucca*

* These plants flower!

Accents for Your Entrance Evergreens

In addition to welcoming your visitors with a beautiful entrance, it’s easy to entertain them and show your style when you accessorize your evergreens. Festively dress your plants to coordinate with seasons or holidays. Fun and creative options include…

Spring: Small bunnies, silk spring blooms such as daffodils, pastel Easter eggs
Summer: Patriotic flags or ribbons for Memorial Day and the Fourth of July
Fall: Scarecrows, pumpkins, Indian corn, Halloween decorations
Winter: Holly sprigs, tiny twinkling lights, beaded garlands, snowflake ornaments

You can also personalize your entrance evergreens for birthdays, anniversaries or to showcase your favorite teams, colleges, hobbies and more. All are easy to do, fun, and affordable, and make your entrance truly eye-catching.

Fall Lawn Care

Fall is the best time of the year to overseed your existing lawn or establish a new lawn. If your lawn is a bit thin, has bare patches or needs good care, now is the time to take care of it so it can become thoroughly established before warm temperatures arrive in spring.

Overseeding A Weak Lawn

A weak lawn may have thin or scraggly patches, seem overrun with weeds or have bare patches that are difficult to keep green and lush. Overseeding can help eliminate these problem areas and create a more consistent, luxurious lawn.

Spray broadleaf weeds with a selective herbicide and wait 2 weeks for the weeds to disappear. Several treatments may be necessary if the yard is thick with weeds.
Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A garden extension service can help determine pH levels, or home test kits are available.
Mow shorter than normal and rake clean to remove unnecessary debris that may keep seeds from reaching the soil.
Core aerate if you have compacted soil or heavy thatch. Remove the cores and dispose of them properly to keep the soil light and airy for seeding.
Apply starter fertilizer and lime if determined to be needed by the pH test, or choose a grass type that will thrive in your soil’s conditions.
Dethatch your lawn if thatch is thicker than ½ inch. This can be done with heavy raking or a special dethatching rake may be necessary in extreme cases.
Overseed with the proper seed. If core aerating, lightly topdress with topsoil or humus.
If needed, cover the freshly seeded area with netting or hay to discourage birds or other wildlife from consuming the seed before it grows.
Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deep root growth.
Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer.

Seeding A New Lawn

If you have no existing lawn or the entire ground is overrun with nothing but weeds, it may be best to start from scratch and create the lawn of your dreams.

Kill existing vegetation with nonselective herbicide. If you want to preserve nearby trees or shrubs, take steps to protect that vegetation from the treatment.
Take a soil sample of your lawn to determine the pH. A testing kit can provide a good pH estimate, or a gardening center or garden extension service can provide a more precise evaluation.
Prepare soil by breaking up the surface with a rake or spade using a crisscross pattern. All large lumps should be broken up, and any large rocks should be removed.
Broadcast starter fertilizer, lime and gypsum as determined by the pH test. This will provide a nutrition boost for fresh seeds.
Spread topsoil or humus to a ½ inch depth for appropriate planting.
Rototill to a depth of 4 inches and grade smooth. This will mix all the top layers together for uniform soil and nutrition, ensuring even turf growth.
Sow proper seed and mulch lightly with salt hay to control erosion and conserve moisture.
Water daily until grass has germinated, then soak once a week to encourage deeper root growth to resist droughts and repel weeds.
Fertilize in late fall with fall fertilizer to provide nutrition throughout the season.

Which Seed?

Not every lawn will thrive with the same type of grass seed. Allow our staff to help you select the seed that best suits your needs, soil type and planting conditions. Apply at the recommended rate and incorporate into the top ¼” of soil. Do not bury the seed or it may not germinate evenly.

No matter what the condition of your lawn, fall is the best time to take steps to help it rejuvenate so you have an amazing lawn to enjoy in spring.

Plant a Tree This Fall

There are so many reasons to add a new tree to your landscape this fall that it’s hard to find a reason not to.

Just think about it, trees will…

Beautify the Environment
Trees add texture and color to the landscape. They soften the harsh lines of buildings and driveways, while their foliage and blooms add seasonal color changes and variety.

Stabilize Soil
Tree roots prevent soil from blowing or washing away, minimizing erosion and providing protection for the surrounding landscape.

Provide Wildlife Habitat
Trees provide shelter and food for birds and numerous small animals, including squirrels, raccoons, insects and more.

Make Food
Many trees provide fruits, nuts, seeds, sap and berries for human consumption. Wildlife will also rely on the food provided by trees.

Create Oxygen
Through photosynthesis, trees take in carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and other poisons from our air and release pure oxygen for us to breathe. One tree can produce enough oxygen for 10 humans for one year!

Filter the Air
Trees act as giant filters trapping dust and pollution particles with their leaves and bark until the rain washes the particles away.

Cool the Air
Air will remain several degrees cooler in the shade of a tree canopy. This is accomplished by not only by blocking the sun’s rays but also through transpiration. Tree leave transpire, or release moisture, which cools the surrounding air. A large tree can release as much as 400 gallons of moisture from its leaves daily.

Reduce Utility Bills
Deciduous trees planted on the south and southwest sides of a home will shade the structure during hot summer months and reduce air conditioning or other cooling needs. In the winter, with the leaves fallen, the sun is able to warm the structure, reducing heating bills.

Reduce Noise Pollution
Strategically planted, trees can dramatically reduce the volume of unwanted noise from loud neighbors, nearby businesses or car traffic.

Hide undesirable views
Purposefully sited, trees can camouflage unattractive views and create privacy, providing a natural sanctuary in your yard.

In our area, fall is just about the best time of year to purchase and plant a tree. The soil is warm, air temperature is cool and morning and evening dew increase available moisture to nurture a new tree. Stop in and see our extensive collection, and we can assist you in choosing the tree that is perfect for your landscape and lifestyle needs.

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Bringing Your Tropical Plants Indoors for the Winter

As the summer comes to an end and autumn approaches, the days get shorter and cooler temperatures signal the time to ready your plants for winter. How can you protect your treasured tropicals from winter damage?

Overwintering Tropical Plants

Don’t wait until frost warnings or freezes occur to bring tropical plants inside, especially since these plants are more susceptible to dropping temperatures. Try to have all of your plants acclimated to the new indoor environment by the end of October. Avoid the temptation to move your tropicals back outside if it suddenly gets warm, because they will have to re-acclimate when you bring them back inside again. With a little extra care even exotic hibiscus can be over-wintered inside the house.

First, it’s a good idea to prune approximately one-eighth to one-fourth off the total height of the plant’s foliage. This helps reduce the shock that the plant receives with the change of conditions when bringing them indoors. Check the plants for signs of insects and treat them with insecticidal soap or pyrethrin spray as well as a systemic insecticide that will provide protection for up to six weeks.

Position indoor tropical plants in a very bright location that receives no less than 6 hours of light per day. If the winter is very cloudy, supplement your plants with an artificial light source. Be sure the room is warm, but avoid putting the plants too close to a heating vent, which can dry them out drastically.

Because they are tropical plants, they will need good humidity which can be achieved by using a humidity tray. Use a saucer that is at least 3-4 inches larger than the pot and fill it with an inch of stones. Pour water over the stones until they are half covered, then place the pot on top of the stones. The humidity immediately around the plant will be increased, but avoid setting the pot directly in any water, which can lead to fungus and rotting. Grouping several plants close together can also help them preserve humidity for more luxuriant growth.

Fertilizing should be continued throughout the winter, but at a rate of once per week. You will find the plant will not utilize as much water in the winter because its growth has slowed. Generally, plants should be watered every 4-7 days depending on location, pot size, soil type and plant type.

If you have any questions about winter care of your plants, our staff will be glad to help you keep your tropicals in good condition all winter long.

Fantastic Fall Shrubs

Shrubs can be real showstoppers in fall as they provide layers of color and texture to your autumn landscape. Adding these top 10 fantastic fall shrubs to your yard can bring the beauty of the season to all your beds and borders.

Top 10 Fall Shrubs

There are many stunning shrubs and hedges that offer colorful foliage, long-lasting berries, and other fantastic features to enjoy through fall and into winter. While the best shrubs for your yard will depend on the soil type, sunlight levels, and general climate available, these ten choices are amazing options for most landscapes.

Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
Many viburnum species are great fall shrubs, but arrowwood viburnum is truly outstanding with its yellow, orange, and red autumn colors on toothed leaves. This comes after bright white flowers appear in spring and early summer followed by beautiful blue berries.

Plant arrowwood viburnum as a dramatic background for landscaping beds or back borders in the yard. This shrub can tolerate many soil types, even clay soils, and is hardy through winter for easy maintenance.

Beautyberry (Callicarpa sp.)
The foliage of beautyberry may not be dramatic, but its tightly clustered berries in bright purple to magenta shades add a pop of color to the late summer and autumn landscape. Birds and wildlife will feast on these berries, bringing energy and action to the yard as well.

Beautyberry grows best in moist, rich soil, preferably in full sun to part shade. As a disease-resistant shrub, this is a good choice for beginners and expert gardeners alike, and it looks best in groups or when scattered amongst other shrubs in a thicket-like setting.
Bottlebrush Buckeye (Aesculus parviflora)
The large leaves of bottlebrush buckeye make a dramatic autumn show in brilliant yellow and gold hues. Vivid fall colors brighten the late season landscape and follow summer flowering of upright white blossoms.

Well-drained, preferably rich soil is best to help this shrub reach its full potential. Adding plenty of organic matter to the native soil when planting will help to improve drainage. Be sure to give this plant lots of room to spread.

Chokeberry (Aronia sp.)
There are several species of chokeberries that can be beautiful additions to the autumn landscape. While their foliage will vary, it is the bold crop of berries in shades ranging from red to purple to nearly black that add interest to the yard, and will attract birds and wildlife.

These shrubs perform best and produce the heartiest berry crops when planted in well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. The more sun the plant receives, the more luxurious its foliage and berry crop will be for a superb autumn performance.
Fothergilla (Fothergilla sp.)
Also called witch alder, this taller shrub is well-known for its downy twigs. In fall, however, its foliage will put on a stunning show of bright yellow, orange, or red foliage – often with all colors appearing on the same plant.

This low-maintenance shrub prefers moist, rich, acidic soil, and should be positioned in full sun to part shade for the best fall performance. It is relatively slow-growing but will continue to show its amazing autumn colors each year.
Heirloom Roses (Rosa sp.)
Many types of heirloom roses can reveal a surprising pop of autumn color when allowed to mature to colorful hips, which can appear in shades of orange, red, and purple. Semi- and semi-double bloom varieties will yield the most hips for fall color and interest.

Take care to plant heirloom roses where they will thrive best, depending on the sunlight levels and soil types each variety prefers. To encourage hip formation, avoid deadheading in late summer so the hips can come to maturity.
Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium sp.)
Highbush blueberry’s beauty goes far beyond its crop of tasty summer berries. In autumn, this shrub bursts into bold shades of red, orange, yellow, or purple, and its green or red twigs also provide additional color and interest into winter.

Grow this shrub in acidic soil, sandy and well-drained is best. This plant prefers full sun for the best growth.
Itea (Itea viriginica)
Often known as Virginia sweetspire, this shrub has stunning firework-like sprigs of white flowers in early summer, and it is a favorite of butterflies. In autumn, however, this deer-resistant shrub bursts into rich hues of yellow, orange, red, and mahogany.

Itea can thrive in full shade to full sun and is a great option not only for the landscape, but for autumn-themed containers and porch pots as well. The berries this shrub produces in late summer will also attract birds and wildlife.
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifoli)
The oak-like leaves of this colorful hydrangea are reminiscent of the most popular deciduous trees, and turn bold hues of purple, bronze, red, and orange as fall advances. This is well after the plant’s big summer flowers, that range from white to purple to pink, have faded.

This plant prefers rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil amended with compost to add rich nutrition for abundant flowering. While these plants thrive in part shade to full sun conditions, the autumn color will be more brilliant if the shrub is in full sun.
Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea)
While the foliage of red twig dogwood will briefly turn rose or golden before fading to brown, it is the unexpected brightness of its stems in sharp crimson hues that make it outstanding in the fall and winter landscape, long after the leaves have fallen.

This shrub will do best in slightly acidic, moist soils, and it will be happiest if it receives at least four hours of sun per day. Lightly shaded placements, particularly from afternoon sun, are suitable for red twig dogwood.

Caring for Fall Shrubs

No matter which shrubs you choose to add autumn drama to your yard, they will need proper care to perform their best. Be sure to site them with the appropriate sunlight levels and amend soil as necessary to provide a supportive pH for healthy growth and brilliant color. Mulch autumn shrubs to protect their root systems as seasonal temperatures drop. Choose these fantastic fall shrubs for a glorious autumn palette in your yard for years to come.

Fall Chrysanthemums

No flower is more iconic of autumn than the chrysanthemum, and these beautiful mounding perennials are ideal for fall flowerbeds, pots, window boxes, borders, and many other uses. How will
you get creative with chrysanthemums this fall?

Why We Love Chrysanthemums

Just when many other flowers are fading at the end of summer, chrysanthemums, or mums, are coming into their glory with a range of stunning autumn colors. Depending on the cultivar, these plants sport yellow, white, red, orange, bronze, pink, peach, wine, purple, and bicolored blooms. The flowers range from small, button-like blossoms to larger blooms reminiscent of daisies. Mum blooms are long-lasting when cut and they’re just as lovely in floral arrangements and bouquets as they are planted in containers, flowerbeds, and the landscape. This makes mums extremely useful for all manner of autumn décor.

Chrysanthemums are native to east Asia and northern Europe and were first domestically cultivated in China nearly 600 years ago. Today, there are more than 20,000 chrysanthemum cultivars worldwide. They are deer- and rabbit-resistant, making them a hardy option for landscaping beds, and with a bit of thoughtful care, these tender perennials can be a wonderful addition to any flower garden or fall containers.

Caring for Chrysanthemums

The hardiness of chrysanthemums depends on the cultivar as well as the local climate and even the microclimate in your landscape. These flowers prefer well-drained, rich soil with a neutral pH, so it is best to use a good quality potting soil in containers. When planting chrysanthemums in the garden or landscape, mixing compost or peat moss in the planting hole will help increase drainage and nourish the soil to promote the best blooms. A good rule of thumb is that if soil is good for vegetables, it will also be good for mums – making them a wonderful choice to refresh a garden after the summer harvest has finished.

Chrysanthemums grow best in full sun requiring a minimum of six hours per day. If mums are planted in containers, consider using a mobile plant cart or a stand with casters so that the pots may be moved to brighter areas, if needed, as the season progresses.

Chrysanthemums prefer evenly moist, but not soggy, soil. Because of their thick, mounding habit, it is best to water mums from below suing a soaker hose or irrigation drip system in garden beds. In pots, mums should again be watered from below the plant but above the soil line. A watering wand will make this job direct and easy. Be sure to drain excess water from saucers after watering so the roots do not remain continually wet.

Fertilizing chrysanthemums every month through the spring and early summer, with a balanced fertilizer, will help them grow and bloom well, but if mums are planted in the Fall, they should not need extra feeding as long as they were planted in rich, nutritious soil. Deadheading spent blooms by pinching them back can encourage more flowering and help mums maintain their compact, mounding habit.

Decorating with Fall Mums

Chrysanthemums are a beautiful choice not only in the garden, but are equally lovely in welcoming porch pots, deck or patio containers, or even small indoor pots and arrangements. Add an extra touch of fall with rustic containers, such as wine barrels, baskets, or terra cotta pots, or glam up your mums in hammered copper or bronze pots that will accentuate their color. A burlap ribbon or bow can be a charming accent, and you can give more seasonal flair to mum arrangements or flowerbeds by adding pumpkins and gourds as fun decorations. Indoors, use small pails or pots for petit mum arrangements, or add them to larger arrangements with grain sprigs, dried pods, colorful leaves, or twists of grapevine for additional texture.

Fall chrysanthemums can be a pleasant burst of autumn color, whether they are part of the landscape or are used in containers, pots, or arrangements and we carry a wide selection to make your fall home suit the season!

Autumn: Why Plant Now?

Although many gardeners plant trees and shrubs in the spring, knowledgeable gardeners plant in the fall to take advantage of all this fabulous season has to offer. But why is fall planting better than spring planting?

Stress Reduction
Transplanting causes stress as plants are removed from containers, balls or established locations and changed to new locations. Planting in the fall, when a plant is entering dormancy and is generally hardier and sturdier, reduces this stress so the plant can thrive.

Establishing Strong Roots
Fall planting “establishes” trees and shrubs by encouraging root growth. Because the soil is still warm, the roots continue to develop until freezing, though the upper parts of the plant are already dormant. When transplanting in the spring, the developed roots are active and delicate tips or rootlets, as well as buds and new leaves, are more easily damaged.

Weather Resiliency
Trees and shrubs planted in the fall are better able to withstand the rigors of the next summer’s heat and dry conditions because they have much longer to develop healthy roots systems and become thoroughly established. This is especially critical in dry climates or areas prone to drought or irregular rainfall.

Faster Maturity
The “head-start” of fall planting results in a larger plant in less time, helping create a mature landscape without waiting for smaller plants to catch up. This can be especially critical when replacing dead or damaged plants in a mature landscape to avoid a gap or uneven look.

Water Conservation
Planting in the fall saves watering time and promotes conservation by eliminating daily watering. Cooler temperatures with the addition of both morning and evening dew contribute greatly to soil moisture availability in fall without as much supplemental watering.

Color Confirmation
Fall is the best time to see a plant’s autumnal color. Planting in the fall eliminates the surprise of the wrong color or unexpected shades that may not coordinate with nearby plants. By planting in autumn, you’ll know exactly what you’re purchasing and planting, and you will be able to match better with your existing landscape.

Saving Money
Last but definitely not least, buying your beautiful trees and shrubs in autumn can save big money. We discount prices on trees and shrubs to create room for holiday season materials and pass the savings on to you. Selection may be more limited later in fall, however, so don’t wait too long to take advantage of great savings.

Autumn can be the ideal time to plant trees and shrubs, whether you are adding to your landscape, replacing plants or starting a whole new look. If you plant in autumn, you’ll be amazed at how lovely your landscape will look next spring.

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Joe Pye Weed: A Native Jewel

Joe Pye Weed, known botanically as Eutrochium (formerly Eupatorium), is a perennial favorite among gardeners seeking late-season, native bloomers that also encourage a variety of pollinators. Renowned for its tall stature, attractive foliage, and clusters of mauve-pink flowers, Joe Pye Weed is a staple and a jewel in pollinator-friendly gardens.

About

Joe Pye Weed is native to North America and thrives in the eastern United States and Canada, USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9. It typically grows in moist, well-drained soils along streams, in meadows, and at the edges of woodlands. This plant can reach heights of 3 to 7 feet, with some species and cultivars growing even taller. The lance-shaped leaves are arranged in whorls around sturdy stems, which can be purple or green. The flowers, blooming from mid-summer to early fall, form large, dome-shaped clusters that are particularly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.

As a native plant, Joe Pye Weed supports local ecosystems by providing nectar and pollen for pollinators. Its tall stems also offer habitat and shelter for various insects and birds. As an added benefit, it is highly resistant to deer and bunny browsing.

Joe Pye Weed Species & Cultivars

Sweet Joe Pye Weed (E. purpureum)

Typically grows 4 to 7 feet tall with vanilla-scented pinkish-purple flowers.

Cultivars:

‘Little Joe’: A compact form reaching 3 to 4 feet, ideal for smaller gardens.
‘Gateway’: Known for its robust growth and deep pink flowers, reaching 4 to 6 feet.

Spotted Joe Pye Weed (E. maculatum)

Distinguished by its spotted stems and lush, serrated leaves, growing 4 to 7 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Phantom’: A dwarf variety growing 3 to 4 feet tall with deep pink flowers.
‘Purple Bush’: Features dark purple stems and vibrant pink flower clusters.

Coastal Joe Pye Weed (E. dubium)

More tolerant of coastal conditions, typically 3 to 5 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Baby Joe’: A compact variety, growing up to 3 feet tall with rich mauve flowers.
‘Little Red’: Known for its red-tinged stems and bright pink flowers, reaching about 3 feet in height.

Planting & Maintenance

Planting Time: Plant Joe Pye Weed in the spring or fall, allowing the roots to establish before the extreme temperatures of summer or winter.

Spacing: Plants should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart, depending on the variety, to accommodate their mature size and ensure good air circulation, which helps prevent disease.

Light: While it can grow in partial shade, Joe Pye Weed performs best in full sun, where it will produce the most abundant blooms.

Soil: Joe Pye Weed prefers moist, well-drained soil but can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay. It thrives in slightly acidic to neutral pH levels.

Water: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first year after planting and in periods of drought. Established plants are somewhat drought-tolerant but still prefer regular watering.

Maintenance: Joe Pye Weed requires minimal maintenance. Cut back the stems to the ground in late winter or early spring to encourage new growth. Deadheading spent flowers will keep the plant looking tidy, although this is not necessary for the plant’s health.

Designing the Garden

Joe Pye Weed is a versatile, late-season perennial that offers numerous ecological benefits that make it a valuable addition to the home landscape and garden. Firstly, it is a powerhouse for pollinators, attracting a variety of bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects with its nectar-rich flowers. This supports the local ecosystem by enhancing pollination for other plants in the area. Secondly, Joe Pye Weed provides habitat and food for caterpillars and other insect larvae, contributing to the lifecycle of many species. Its deep root system helps prevent soil erosion, improve soil structure, and retain moisture, making it an excellent plant for stabilizing areas prone to erosion. Additionally, as a native plant, Joe Pye Weed is well-adapted to local climates and soil conditions, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. This contributes to a healthier, more sustainable garden environment. By planting Joe Pye Weed, gardeners can enhance biodiversity, support pollinator populations, and promote soil health.

Here are some ideas for Joe Pye’s use in the landscape garden:

Pollinator Gardens
Joe Pye Weed is an excellent addition to pollinator gardens. Its late-season blooms provide essential nectar for butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Pair it with other native plants like coneflowers (Echinacea), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia), and milkweed (Asclepias) for a diverse and attractive pollinator haven.
Back of the Border
Due to its height, Joe Pye Weed is ideal for the back of the border in mixed perennial beds. It creates a dramatic backdrop for shorter plants and helps add vertical interest.
Meadow and Prairie Gardens
Incorporate Joe Pye Weed into meadow or prairie-style plantings, where it can naturalize and spread. Its tall, airy flower heads blend beautifully with grasses and other wildflowers.
Rain Gardens
Joe Pye Weed thrives in moist conditions, making it a perfect candidate for rain gardens. Plant it in areas that receive runoff or where water tends to collect after rain.
Cut Flowers
The sturdy stems and long-lasting blooms make Joe Pye Weed an excellent choice for cut flower arrangements. Harvest the flowers when they are fully open for the best vase life.

Joe Pye Weed, with its striking, abundant, late-season flowers, attraction to pollinators, minimal care requirements, and diversified use, is a perennial that is invaluable in the home landscape. It is a North American jewel that all gardeners in zones 4 through 9 should include in their native plant collection.

Fabulous Hydrangeas for Show-Stopping Summer Color

Hydrangeas and are widely acclaimed for their large, showy blossoms that lend fabulous color to gardens from mid- to late summer. Their luxuriant dark green foliage offers a striking background to their large round or smooth blossoms. All hydrangeas are deciduous, and it’s a sure sign of spring when their tender green leaves begin to appear. Hydrangeas are spectacular when grown as single specimens and are equally fabulous when planted in mixed shrub borders. Some of our favorites…

Climbing Hydrangea – An excellent deciduous vine with glossy leaves and cinnamon colored exfoliating stems. White flowers bloom in early July. Easily climbs on masonry, reaching 10-20’ tall.
Oakleaf Hydrangea – An upright, irregular shrub that grows 4-6’ tall. Large leaves have excellent fall color. Creamy white flowers in July. Tolerates shade well.
Bigleaf (macrophylla) Hydrangea – Blue or pink flower clusters (5-10” across) appear in August. Flower color depends on the pH of the soil. Acid soils produce blue flowers, whereas alkaline soils produce pink blossoms. In garden settings, their colors can be changed by adding either sulfur or lime, depending on the color you want to achieve. Blossoms are produced on last year’s growth, so prune just after blooming.
Pee Gee Hydrangea – A small, low-branched tree that grows 10-15’ and arches under the weight of large flower clusters. White flowers bloom in July, turning pink and then brown with the first frost, holding on through winter. Flowers appear on previous year’s growth, so prune right after flowers start to turn pink.

Mopheads and Lacecaps – Which is Which?

Before you get the urge to dash out and buy the first hydrangeas that catch your eye, it’s wise to learn the difference between “mopheads” and “lacecaps.” As peculiar as these names sound, they truly are the names designated to two cultivar groups of macrophylla hydrangeas, and understanding the difference between them can help you choose the flowers you prefer.

Mopheads
Garden hydrangeas, also known as ‘mopheads,’ feature large round flowerheads resembling pom-poms and bloom from mid- to late summer. Mopheads bloom in solid masses, their clusters often so heavy that they cause their stems to droop and bend with elegant arches.
Lacecaps
Lacecap hydrangeas bear flat round flowerheads with centers of fertile flowers surrounded by outer rings of sterile flowers. The fascinating flowerheads of lacecap hydrangeas are also somewhat reminiscent of pinwheels.

You will be delighted with the versatility of these lovely shrubs, so relax and enjoy their beauty!

Climbing hydrangea vine.

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Grasses With Gusto

Ornamental Grasses lend a unique dimension to any landscape with their texture, sound, motion and architecture. By planting ornamental grasses, you can also add multi-seasonal excitement to your landscape. Either combined with other ornamental plants or featured by themselves in “Grass Gardens,” ornamental grasses are attractive from spring until late fall and often through winter as well.

Choosing Ornamental Grasses

It can be challenging to select the best ornamental grasses for your landscape. Choose from varieties that are short or tall, upright or weeping. Foliage can be bold or fine and comes in colors ranging from green, blue-green, lime-green, gold and red to variegated with horizontal or vertical bands of white or yellow. Flower heads can be showy plumes, fuzzy foxtails or airy particles and appear from mid-summer to fall, depending on variety. Dried flowers and leaves may persist into winter, looking particularly effective against a snowy backdrop.

Depending on the conditions of your landscape and your grass preferences, there are many different types of grasses to try.

Screens Or Barriers

Taller growing varieties such as Plume Grass (Erianthus ravennae) or Giant Miscanthus (Miscanthus floridulus) can be used as effective screens or windbreaks. The wind rushing through their foliage creates added sensations of sound and movement. Even some of the medium-sized growers, such as varieties of Miscanthus sinensis, can enclose a patio or act as a barrier against wind, noise or an undesirable view.

Specimens

Many ornamental grasses also make excellent specimen plants and can turn a dull corner into a focal point of color and texture. Some of the most dramatic grasses for specimen planting include Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis gracillimus) with its graceful arching vase shaped foliage and pinkish blooms which age to cream, and Porcupine Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’) that has upright green and yellow banded stems.

Waterscaping

Water gardens and ornamental grasses go together beautifully. A grouping of grasses looks particularly effective at the water’s edge, softening the boundary between land and water. Many grasses such as Miscanthus can tolerate moist conditions, some, like sweet flag (Acorus) and Giant Reed (Arundo donax), can grow in shallow water. Sedges (Carex), which are not true grasses, although similar in appearance, are also moisture-tolerant. Look for varieties with plain, variegated or golden foliage.

Groundcovers

Grasses that are groundcover varieties spread by underground stolons rather than forming tight clumps. One such selection is Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea ‘Picta’), a fast-spreading green-and-white variegated variety, particularly useful as a groundcover in difficult areas such as slopes or even under trees that cast light shade. Give this one plenty of space! You’ll also want to try green or variegated Liriope and Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon).

Beds and Borders

Massed in groups, ornamental grasses are wonderful as a background to, or in combination with, other plantings. Try planting them with perennials such as Black-eyed Susan, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ and Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ or ‘Sunny Border Blue’ for a dynamic summer and fall interest addition to your landscape. Varieties for mass planting include Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum), whose upright delicate flowers are held above leaves that turn reddish in the fall; Korean Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis acutifolia ‘Stricta’) which yields stunning buff-colored plumes over a long period and Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) that sports maroon foxtails which age to cream in late fall. A number of different forms of Fountain Grass are available: ‘Hameln’ is a dwarf variety with creamy foxtails, while ‘Moudry’ has unusual black flowers. For edging beds and borders, plant low-growing Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca). Its steely blue clumps hold their color though winter and contrast well with pink or purple flowers or foliage.

Growing Grasses

Ornamental grasses are relatively easy to grow. A site that receives at least six hours of sun per day is best, although varieties such as Hair Grass (Deschampsia) and variegated Miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’) can grow well in as little as four hours of sun. Soil preparation, as with everything you plant, is a must, so work in plenty of organic matter such as peat moss, humus or compost. Fertilize in early spring with 5-10-5 or bone meal, when new growth is starting to show. Clumps should be cut back to within 6″ of the ground at this time, and can be divided if needed.

You’ll love the look ornamental grasses can give your landscape, and these easy-care plants can be effective at many functions in many different types of landscapes. Give them a try today!

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Crazy for Coneflowers

Beautiful and dependable, Echinacea purpurea, or purple coneflower, is the crowning glory of the summer perennial garden. A member of the Aster family, all Echinacea species are native to North America. The genus Echinacea is derived from the Greek ‘echino’ meaning hedgehog, a reference to the spiny center disc flowers.

Coneflowers are practical as well as gorgeous. They have long been used as an herbal remedy to stimulate the body’s natural immune system. Both plant roots and tops are used in the production of herbal medicines. Echinacea purpurea has traditionally been used for this purpose, but research is being conducted on the nine other species to determine their usefulness for homeopathic treatments.

Cultivating Coneflowers

Coneflowers will thrive in a sunny location, planted in well-drained soil. They are tolerant of nutrient-poor soil, heat and humidity. Echinacea purpurea grows on thick sturdy stems from 3-5 feet tall and generally does not require staking. Coneflowers are long-blooming, the flowers are fragrant and they make a long-lasting cut flower. This is one of the top ten perennials for attracting butterflies to the garden. You may deadhead plants after the blooms have faded to improve their appearance and to encourage a second, but smaller, bloom. You may also leave seed heads in place. In the summer and fall, they attract and provide food for goldfinches and other seed-loving birds. In the winter, the black spent flower heads add ornamental interest as they contrast dramatically with pure white snow.

This perennial is not invasive, but will self-seed if flower heads are left to mature. Cut plants down to the basal foliage, the low growing rosette of leaves, in the spring. Plants should be lifted and divided about every four years or as crowns become crowded.

Where to Place Coneflowers

Purple coneflower is a great addition to the back of any sunny perennial border. Its rose-purple flowers, with their coppery-orange centers, look great with ornamental grasses, Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Sedum ‘Autumn Joy.’ Appropriate usage ideas include: cottage, meadow, prairie, wildflower, native and herb gardens, as well as butterfly gardens and any containers that serve similar purposes.

Favorite Coneflowers

America is having a love affair with Echinacea and several new cultivars are released each year, while popular favorites continue to be top choices.

Popular Echinacea Varieties

‘Baby White Swan’ – Dwarf ‘White Swan’
‘Bright Star’– Petals are pale purple-pink on the edge and darker toward disc
‘Coconut Lime’ – New for 2007, first double white coneflower
‘Doubledecker’ – Unusual two-tiered coneflower with ray petals in disc
‘Fancy Frills’ – Petals are frilled on the edge
‘Fatal Attraction’ – Vivid purple-pink flowers with 2 rows of petals
‘Fragrant Angle’ – Large, fragrant, snow white flowers
‘Green Envy’ – Unusual rounded green petals with magenta veining near the cone
‘Green Eyes’ – Magenta flower with a green center disc
‘Hope’ – Pale pink flower named in honor of a cure for breast cancer
‘Kim’s Knee High’ – Dwarf with recurved ray petals and large orange cone
‘Kim’s Mophead’ – Compact plant with white flowers
‘Magnus’ – 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year, purple-pink flowers, 3’ tall
‘Mars’ – Large orange cones surrounded by brilliant rose-purple petals
‘Merlot’ – Large rose-pink flowers on wine colored, sturdy stems
‘Pink Double Delight’ – Similar to ‘Razzmatazz’ with a more compact habit
‘Razzmatazz’ – Double, bright pink flower on very sturdy stems
‘Ruby Giant’ – Large, rich ruby-pink flowers that are highly fragrant
‘Ruby Star’ – Reddish-purple flowers held horizontally
‘Sparkler’ – Rose-pink flowers, white-splashed variegated foliage
‘Tiki Torch’ – Large, bright orange flowers
‘White Swan’ – White coneflower with downward reflexed petals

Echinacea Big Sky Series

‘After Midnight’ – Dwarf plant with brilliant magenta, highly fragrant blooms
‘Harvest Moon’ – Gold flower with golden-orange cone
‘Summer Sky’ – Bicolor flower, soft peach and rose petals
‘Sundown’ – Russet-orange with a prominent brown central cone
‘Sunrise’ – Lemon-yellow flowers
‘Sunset’ – Orange flowers with prominent brown central cone
‘Twilight’ – Vibrant rose-red with a deep red cone

Echinacea Meadowbrite Series

‘Mango Meadowbrite’ – Mango color, paler than orange meadowbright
‘Orange Meadowbrite’ – Large single blooms of rich sunset orange
‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – A true dwarf, only 18” high, bright pink flowers

The list that we have provided is not all-inclusive, nor an accurate representation of every coneflower variety we carry. Please stop by often as we continue to provide standard, new and unusual perennials, including many new types of coneflowers.

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Daylilies… Easy to Grow, Fun to Collect!

Few perennials can match the daylily (Hemerocallis) for versatility and durability. One of the most popular perennials, daylilies have become a collector plant for novice and experienced gardeners alike. Thousands of named cultivars are trouble-free to grow and adaptable to many conditions, which makes daylily collecting fun and easy. Although each lily-like flower lasts only one day, there are always more buds to open which provide summer color and a subtly changing garden for many weeks.

Using Daylilies

Just as there are many different daylilies to try, there are many different ways to try them. Plant them individually for a pop of color, or create a mixed border with other plants or multiple daylily types. Daylilies can be a fun surprise when naturalized in a grassy area or grouped in a mass as a groundcover over larger areas. Taller varieties can even become simple screens or create gentle privacy surrounds. The creative gardener may even use multiple daylilies to create fun patterns or pictures in a themed flowerbed.

Daylily Care

Daylilies tolerate dry, poor soil, but perform best and reach their full potential in rich well-drained beds. Different cultivars have different needs for sunlight, moisture and fertilizing, and while these flowers do well even if somewhat neglected, it is best to try to meet their needs so each bloom can flourish. Some will tolerate drought and frost better than others, while certain cultivars need more attention. All are quite low-maintenance, however, and will thrive for years even in marginal conditions.

Popular Daylilies

There are too many daylily types to list – there are more than 35,000 different cultivars – but some tried-and-true selections that are always favorites include…

Hyperion – 40” tall, space 18-24” apart. Delightfully fragrant, large, 5” primrose-yellow flowers with a green throat in mid to late summer. Full sun or part shade.
Mary Todd – 26” tall, space 24-30” apart. Golden or buff 6-7” flowers on a semi-evergreen foliage. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Stella De’Oro – 12-18” tall, space 18-24” apart. Golden yellow 2-3” flowers with a green throat on a compact plant. Reblooms all summer. Full sun.
Joan Senior – 25” tall, space 24-30” apart. Near-white 6” flowers with a green throat on an evergreen plant. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Becky Lynn – 20” tall, space 24” apart. Large, 6” rose-blend flowers with a green throat in a semi-evergreen plant. Blooms midseason, then reblooms. Full sun.
Rocket City – 36” tall, space 18-24” apart. Eye-catching, two-tone orange blossoms are up to 6” across. Blooms midseason. Full sun or part shade.

There are always more daylily types to try; come in today to see the latest, hottest, most amazing cultivars of these versatile blooms, and you’ll be eager to add more of them to your landscape.

Daylily Fun Fact:

The American Hemerocallis Society has classified daylilies by flower size. A miniature has flowers less than 3” in diameter, small-flowered cultivars have flowers from 3-4.5” and large-flowered cultivars have flowers 4.5” or larger.

Perennial Flowering Vines

Vines are valuable and versatile plants that provide a remarkable vertical display while using minimal ground space. Offering an extensive mixture of decorative foliage, flowers, fruits and fragrance, vines are generally fast-growing, relatively pest-free and require minimal maintenance.

Why Choose Vines?

There are numerous uses for vines in the landscape. They can visually soften fences, walls and trellises or dress-up a lamp or mailbox post. They will provide summer shade when grown over an arbor, gazebo frame or pergola. Vines may be used to provide privacy by screening a patio or porch and can define any outdoor living space when used to create living outdoor walls or green barriers.

Three things should be considered when selecting a vine for your garden:

Intended Use
If you want a thick barrier or screening look, opt for vines that will provide dense foliage, but if you prefer a more delicate vine, choose plants with more space in their foliage. Check flowering options, growth speed and how much training the vine will need to reach its full potential. At the same time, consider how the foliage is shed in autumn and how much care the vine may need to stay in good condition.
Planting Location
Like any plant in your landscaping, vines will have specific needs for sunlight, soil condition and watering. Also consider the size of the space where your vine will live to be sure it won’t crowd out nearby plants or be stunted in a too-small space. Condition the soil appropriately to nourish your vine, and adjust a drip system or sprinklers to provide adequate water as needed.
Vine Support
Vines need adequate support to stay upright and sturdy. Because vines climb in several different ways, support is critical. Wires, spirals, trellises, fences or arbors should support vines that use tendrils or a twining stem. Other vines attach themselves with aerial rootlets. These vines grow best on brick or stone walls. Some vines have no natural method to attach to a vertical structure and will just sprawl if not manually assisted with garden wire or string to an appropriate support.

You will want your vine to thrive for many years to come, therefore you must select the right vine for your chosen location. Use the chart below to learn about some of the more common, landscape-friendly vines you can welcome into your yard.

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Summer Lavenders

Do you enjoy making herbal or floral bouquets and wands to scent the house? Maybe you’re into the lavender cooking trend or like to infuse playful summer drinks with a floral touch. Perhaps you recognize the aromatherapy or medicinal qualities of lavender.

In other words, do you love lavender and are frustrated because the bloom season is so short?

Whatever you do with your lavender, you may have planted one and it bloomed for a few weeks. Now you think you have to wait another year to enjoy the beauty and fragrance. That’s no fun! But here’s a secret to prolong your passion during lavender season…

About Lavenders

There are actually three groups of lavenders. Members of each group bloom around the same length of time, but each group blooms at different times. By planting at least one member of each group, you can enjoy lavender from early spring to mid-summer (and sometimes even longer with careful watering).

Members of the “Non-English Lavenders” bloom from early to late spring. “English Lavenders” follow and bloom from late spring to early summer. True summer lavenders, known as “Lavendins,” continue blooming into the hottest days of summer.

Also called “English Lavender hybrids,” the varieties in this summer group are crosses between the Portuguese and English Lavenders. They all have large gray leaves, grow into large plants, and grow best in the heat. They are all very fragrant, making them welcome additions to any lavender garden.

Abriali Lavender was one of the first hybrids. It produced cosmetic-grade oil until Grosso Lavender replaced it with superior oil production. Happily, gardeners can also enjoy Grosso in their gardens, as it’s frequently available at garden centers.

White Grosso Lavender, with the same beauty and fragrance, provides a nice background for a mixed flower border. Edelweiss Lavender, a smaller white lavender, mixes nicely in the garden, without a reduction of fragrance.

Hidcote Giant Lavender and Provence Lavender are garden center favorites. Approximately the same size, the Hidcote Giant has darker flowers than the Provence, which has a longer flower wand. Sachets usually contain Provance buds because they are exceptionally easy to remove from the stalk. Other popular varieties include Grappenhall, Dutch Mill, Seal and Fred Boutin lavenders.

Lavenders In the Garden

Growing lavenders could not be easier. All thrive in full sun in warm, well-drained, average quality soil. Dampness, either through poor drainage or humidity, will kill them. They grow well in pots with good drainage and fair soil. Prune after blooming to shape the plants and promote future blooming. While lavender is drought resistant, if the soil is dry, it is necessary to water well. Water again only when the soil is dry. Using compost as fertilizer will provide critical nutrients and improve soil drainage.

Using Lavender

Lavenders are very attractive to bees. They happily buzz from flower to flower while collecting pollen. Some honey producers site their hives in the middle of lavender fields to produce lavender-scented honey. The honey’s aroma is a great way to start the day!

Drying lavender for future use is easy. Cut bundles of wands from the plants without cutting into the older woody part of the plant. Use a rubber band to hold the bundles together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry room such as an attic or closet. The darkness helps retain the bloom color. The bundle should be dry in 7-10 days.

Although lavender’s taste isn’t the same as its fragrance, lavender dishes appear in many trendy restaurants. Lavender martinis and teas, ice cream, cookies and other desserts accompany lavender-sauced meats and vegetarian dishes. Lavender is an ingredient in the herbs de Provence mix and replaces strong tasting herbs such as rosemary, thyme or mint in many cookbooks for meats, breads and general seasonings.

Some folks even use lavender as an antibacterial antiseptic to treat wounds and insect stings.

Even if you just want to enjoy lavender for the sake of its beauty and ease of maintenance, remember… Planting one of each of the three groups lets you love your lavender for three times as long. Enjoy!

Versatile Hydrangeas

Tall or short, red, pink, purple, blue, white and shades in between, few shrubs provide the versatility of hydrangeas. Generations of gardeners have loved and designed their gardens using these showy shrubs as summer privacy screens, landscape focal points and beautiful cut flowers. Now, thanks to new hydrangea introductions, there are even more ways to use them.

Discover the Newest Hydrangeas

New types of hydrangeas are being introduced every year, and these showstoppers are fast favorites among both experienced hydrangea aficionados as well as newcomers to the hydrangea craze.

‘Endless Summer’
Termed “the best new flowering shrub of the decade” by some gardeners, this cultivar has gained a reputation as the first “reblooming” hydrangea. Blooming from early summer to first frost on both new and old wood, it is unfazed by high heat or extreme cold. Now gardeners in colder microclimates can grow beautiful low maintenance 3-5’ tall and wide hydrangeas. The 8″ diameter mophead balls of light blue or pink flowers bloom the entire summer.

‘Bloomstruck’
A dwarf ‘Endless Summer’ this hydrangea grows to only 2-4’ tall and wide with pink or blue 4-5″ diameter mopheads on upright red-purple stems. Perfect for containers, in smaller gardens or in the front of cutting beds, it also graces balconies and decks. In fall, red-purple colored leaves extend the beauty.

Color Tip: Change the flower colors of ‘Endless Summer’ and ‘Bloomstruck.’ The soil pH affects the flower color of many hydrangeas. To intensify the pink color, decrease the acidity by adding hydrated lime. To intensify the blue color, increase the acidity by adding sulfur. Our staff can suggest products to help you determine your soil pH and the amount of lime or sulfur to use.

‘Quickfire’
Also known as Hydrangea paniculata, this variety blooms earlier than most other hydrangeas and has flowers along an elongated stalk. The flowers, blooming on new wood, open as white, gradually turning to pink in the summer and darker rose in the fall. The soil pH does not affect the flower color. As one of the hardiest hydrangeas, this beauty grows to 6′ tall in most soils, full sun or dappled shade and tolerates drought conditions.

‘Little Quickfire’
A dwarf form of ‘Quickfire,’ this tiny powerhouse has all the beauty and benefits of its bigger relative but in a small package. Growing only to 3-4′ tall with a slightly larger spread, this hydrangea makes a big statement in a little space when covered with blooms and can be an ideal choice to start out with hydrangeas.

‘Bobo’
Another paniculata hydrangea, this variety creates huge drama for such a little plant. Growing only to 3′ tall and wide, it’s a thriller in containers, and easily won the Gold Florall medal for best novelty plant. ‘Bobo’s early season white flowers also bloom on new wood and cover the plant on strong overhead stems. Unaffected by soil type or pH, this hardy hydrangea steals the show wherever it is planted.

No matter how you use these newcomers in your landscape – larger varieties in the back of beds or as borders, smaller options in the front or in containers – their long-lasting flowers will make you think summer truly is endless.

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