Plants brighten up any room, help clean the air and bring a bit of nature inside, but indoor spaces rarely have the same levels of bright, natural light many plants enjoy in their native habitats. Without adequate light, a plant’s foliage may be dull or turn yellow or brown, growth will be slow and flowers may fail to bloom. Choosing low light houseplants is an ideal solution for any indoor space, and there are many beautiful plants that can thrive in a dim environment.

20 Best Houseplants for Low Light

There are many reasons to opt for low light houseplants. Some rooms, such as bedrooms and bathrooms, generally have lower than average light levels. Some homeowners use window shades, blinds or curtains for temperature control, which reduces the light available for indoor plants. Even bright rooms may have dim corners or shadowed spaces where light isn’t as intense. The exposure of any window also affects the sunlight it brings indoors, with north and west windows generally having lower light than south and east windows. Changing seasons also changes how much sunlight comes through any window, with less light available to indoor plants in fall and winter. Fortunately, there are many outstanding houseplants that can grow well in lower light conditions. While the best plants for your home will also vary based on humidity conditions and the care you can provide, houseplants that don’t mind lower light include:

• Begonia (Begonia)
• Bromeliads (Aechmea)
• Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
• Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
• Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans)
• Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
• Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
• Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena)
• Maindenhair Fern (Adiantum)
• Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
• Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
• Peperomia (Peperomia)
• Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
• Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
• Prayer Plant (Calathea)
• Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica)
• Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
• Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)
• Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum)
• ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

These are just a few of the most widespread, popular indoor plants that can do well with lower light levels. Check at your local nursery or garden center for additional varieties that are adapted to your region’s climate, especially during the winter months when houseplants are much more widely available.

Caring for Low Light Houseplants

It is important to note that whatever type of houseplant you choose, a designation as “low light” does not mean the plant can thrive in darkness. All plants need some light, but low light plants can still thrive in indirect or filtered light rather than several hours of bright sunlight each day. To give your low light plant the very best indoor habitat, you will also need…

• A proper pot or other container.
  The pot will need to be the right size for the plant and its anticipated growth, without being too big or too small. Adequate drainage is also essential to prevent root rot and other care difficulties.
• Suitable soil or potting mix.
  Garden soil has too many contaminants to be good for houseplants, but choose a soil with good nutrition for the type of plant it will nurture. Add coir, peat or other potting material if necessary to adjust the soil composition.
• Proper watering.
  Inadequate water or overwatering can both be deadly for houseplants. Know what water your plant needs and adjust the watering schedule based on the plant’s size and seasonal needs throughout the year. Watering gauges or automatic watering tools can help you be sure you aren’t drowning or drying out your houseplants.
• Regular feeding.
  Because houseplants rely on the same soil and can’t stretch their roots out to seek extra nutrition, regular fertilizing is essential. Choose the proper fertilizer for the plant type and feed gently rather than risk burning delicate roots with overfeeding. Slow-release fertilizers formulated for indoor plants are one of the best options.
• Increased humidity.
  Indoor air is often much drier than the air outside, and houseplants can dry out more quickly without the proper humidity. Adding a humidifier in a room with houseplants, grouping plants together, misting regularly and providing a humidity tray are all ways to help.
• Occasional dusting.
  With no regular breezes to blow away debris, houseplants can become dull and dingy without being dusted, and dust can clog their pores. Use a soft, clean cloth to gently wipe the foliage, or give plants an occasional shower to rinse away unwanted dust.

Every home can be made brighter with houseplants, even in darker rooms where there wouldn’t seem to be enough light. By choosing the right low light houseplants and caring for them appropriately, even a shadowy corner of your home can be a restful bit of nature.

A fresh cut tree can be a wonderful addition to your holiday décor as well as a treasured Christmas tradition. Unfortunately, with poor care a cut tree can be looking wilted and worn long before December 25, but if you know a few tricks, you can keep your tree looking vibrant and lush throughout the season. Extend the life of your cut tree this Christmas and enjoy the beauty of the season much longer! 

• In selecting a tree, make sure the “handle” at the bottom is long enough to allow the trunk to fit into your tree stand. Otherwise, it will be necessary to remove large branches near the base, which could ruin its appearance, shape and visual balance.
• Check the tree’s freshness before your purchase by bending, pinching or flexing needles. They should be somewhat pliable and not fall off easily. Avoid purchasing a tree that is already showing signs of dryness.
• Make a fresh cut to remove 1/4″ to 1″ of wood from the base of the trunk before putting the tree in the stand. If you use a “center pin” stand, make sure the hole is drilled in the stem after the tree is trimmed.
• Once home, place the tree in water as soon as possible within 6-8 hours after cutting the trunk. This will help the tree better absorb moisture to keep the needles plump and secure.
• If needed, trees can be temporarily stored for several days in a cool location, such as a garage, before being taken indoors and decorated. Place the freshly cut trunk in a bucket full of water. The tree may need to be supported to keep it from tipping over.
• To display the trees indoors, use a stand with an adequate water holding capacity for the tree. As a general rule, stands should provide 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter.
• Use a stand that fits your tree. Some stands have circular rings at the top, so the ring must be large enough for the trunk to fit through the hole. Other stands are open, which may allow a greater range in trunk size. Avoid whittling the sides of the trunk down to fit a stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed.
• Keep your tree away from sources of heat such as fireplaces, heaters, heating vents and direct sunlight, all of which can make it dry out more quickly. Lowering the room temperature will slow the drying process, resulting in less water consumption each day.
• Check the stand daily to make sure that the level of water does not go below the base of the tree. With many stands, there can still be water in the stand even though the base of the tree is no longer submerged an unable to absorb water.
• Apply Wilt-Pruf, an anti-transpirant, to branches to help prevent moisture loss and needle drop. This should be done as quickly as possible before decorating the tree.
• Do not use additives in the water, including floral preservatives, commercial tree preservatives, molasses, sugar, bleach, soft drinks, aspirin, honey, etc. Clean water is all that is needed to maintain the tree’s freshness.
• Miniature lights, particularly LEDs and other energy-efficient bulbs, will produce much less heat and reduce drying of the tree. Do not overload the tree with too many lights.
• Always inspect light sets prior to placing them on the tree. If worn, replace with a new set. And, do not overload electrical circuits, fuses or circuit breakers.
• Always turn off the lights when leaving the house or when going to bed. Minimize how long the lights are on, such as not leaving the lights on during the day when they are less visible.
• Monitor the tree for freshness by bending or pinching needles to test their flexibility. After Christmas or if the tree is dry and brittle, remove it from the house.

With just a few common sense steps, you can find a lovely fresh cut tree and keep it beautiful throughout the holiday season.

Elegant Phalaenopsis, or moth orchid, is said to be the easiest orchid to coax into bloom. Although this is true, you must first be aware of the basic needs of this plant in order to be successful in cultivating it.

Understanding how the moth orchid grows in its native environment is helpful in replicating optimal conditions at home. Phalaenopsis have thick roots and grow not in ground soil but above the ground on tree branches and rocks. They receive filtered sunlight under the jungle canopy and are accustomed to high tropical humidity. So, how do we imitate a jungle in our living room to coax these plants to bloom their best?

Light

Inadequate light is the most common reason that Phalaenopsis orchids fail to bloom.

Moth orchids prefer bright, indirect or filtered light. Too much direct light and this plant’s leaves will burn; not enough light and it will not bloom. In the summer, this is easy – we can place our houseplants outside in a location selected specifically for the plant’s light optimal requirements. Phalaenopsis flower spikes, however, begin to form in the late fall to early winter when sunlight in the Northern Hemisphere is not as bright and days are shorter. Place your orchid in a south or southwest-facing window with a sheer curtain between the window and the plant. This should be enough of a filter to prevent sunburn. If a southern exposure is not possible, consider supplementing the winter light with a full spectrum grow light.

Temperature

In nature, lower temperatures trigger Phalaenopsis to bloom. Leaving your moth orchids outside for at least two weeks in the fall is generally sufficient to initiate a bloom spike. Do not allow your orchid to experience temperatures lower than 58 degrees Fahrenheit, however, or the orchid will be damaged or may even die. After this short period of cooler temperatures, a room that is comfortable for people, between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, is best.

Soil

Orchid roots need oxygen to survive and should never be planted in soil. Often, Phalaenopsis orchids come planted in long fiber sphagnum peat moss. You must be very careful using this medium as it holds a great deal of water, which creates the perfect environment for root rot. The best growing medium for moth orchids is a quality orchid mix consisting of bark, perlite and charcoal. This mixture drains quickly yet holds adequate moisture for optimum root health. Bark, like all natural materials, breaks down over time and must be replaced with a fresh mixture every couple of years. Repotting should be done in late spring or early summer after blooming is complete.

Water

Orchid bark should be allowed to become almost dry, but never fully dry, before watering. To test, stick your finger into the planting mixture up to the first finger joint. Bark that feels almost dry at this depth should be watered. Hosing plants off in the bathtub or sink is a good way to water and allows you to rinse dust from plant leaves at the same time. Be mindful to drain any water that accumulates in the leaf crown after watering to prevent disease.

Humidity

Winter heat and summer air conditioning rob moisture from the air in our homes, which makes the environment more like a desert than a tropical rain forest. Low humidity can cause your orchid to abort its flower buds. Setting your orchids on humidity trays, grouping plants together and misting your orchids are all helpful methods in creating a more humid environment. You may also want to consider a humidifier in the same room as the orchids to promote an even more orchid-friendly environment.

Fertilizer

Phalaenopsis orchids should be fertilized regularly to promote plant health and good flowering. When the orchid is not in bloom, apply one-half the recommended dose of a complete fertilizer, 20-20-20, weekly or with each watering. During the winter months, reduce the frequency of fertilizing to once a month using a houseplant fertilizer labeled as a blossom booster at, again, one-half the recommended strength. Be certain to read the fertilizer instructions fully before using and never apply at a higher rate or with greater frequency than recommended as you may burn tender plant roots and perhaps kill your orchid.

Pruning

When your moth orchid has finished blooming, cut back the flower spike at the base. This will give your plant a rest and allow it to build up energy for its next bloom. You may also prune back to above a node in the flower spike, forcing the plant into a second bloom that will have smaller flowers and fewer blooms.

Once you understand the unique needs of Phalaenopsis, you may find these orchids even easier to grow than you’ve believed, and you’ll enjoy their beauty and distinctiveness all year long.