Author Archives: GCSDev

Summer Lavenders

Do you enjoy making herbal or floral bouquets and wands to scent the house? Maybe you’re into the lavender cooking trend or like to infuse playful summer drinks with a floral touch. Perhaps you recognize the aromatherapy or medicinal qualities of lavender.

In other words, do you love lavender and are frustrated because the bloom season is so short?

Whatever you do with your lavender, you may have planted one and it bloomed for a few weeks. Now you think you have to wait another year to enjoy the beauty and fragrance. That’s no fun! But here’s a secret to prolong your passion during lavender season…

About Lavenders

There are actually three groups of lavenders. Members of each group bloom around the same length of time, but each group blooms at different times. By planting at least one member of each group, you can enjoy lavender from early spring to mid-summer (and sometimes even longer with careful watering).

Members of the “Non-English Lavenders” bloom from early to late spring. “English Lavenders” follow and bloom from late spring to early summer. True summer lavenders, known as “Lavendins,” continue blooming into the hottest days of summer.

Also called “English Lavender hybrids,” the varieties in this summer group are crosses between the Portuguese and English Lavenders. They all have large gray leaves, grow into large plants, and grow best in the heat. They are all very fragrant, making them welcome additions to any lavender garden.

Abriali Lavender was one of the first hybrids. It produced cosmetic-grade oil until Grosso Lavender replaced it with superior oil production. Happily, gardeners can also enjoy Grosso in their gardens, as it’s frequently available at garden centers.

White Grosso Lavender, with the same beauty and fragrance, provides a nice background for a mixed flower border. Edelweiss Lavender, a smaller white lavender, mixes nicely in the garden, without a reduction of fragrance.

Hidcote Giant Lavender and Provence Lavender are garden center favorites. Approximately the same size, the Hidcote Giant has darker flowers than the Provence, which has a longer flower wand. Sachets usually contain Provance buds because they are exceptionally easy to remove from the stalk. Other popular varieties include Grappenhall, Dutch Mill, Seal and Fred Boutin lavenders.

Lavenders In the Garden

Growing lavenders could not be easier. All thrive in full sun in warm, well-drained, average quality soil. Dampness, either through poor drainage or humidity, will kill them. They grow well in pots with good drainage and fair soil. Prune after blooming to shape the plants and promote future blooming. While lavender is drought resistant, if the soil is dry, it is necessary to water well. Water again only when the soil is dry. Using compost as fertilizer will provide critical nutrients and improve soil drainage.

Using Lavender

Lavenders are very attractive to bees. They happily buzz from flower to flower while collecting pollen. Some honey producers site their hives in the middle of lavender fields to produce lavender-scented honey. The honey’s aroma is a great way to start the day!

Drying lavender for future use is easy. Cut bundles of wands from the plants without cutting into the older woody part of the plant. Use a rubber band to hold the bundles together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry room such as an attic or closet. The darkness helps retain the bloom color. The bundle should be dry in 7-10 days.

Although lavender’s taste isn’t the same as its fragrance, lavender dishes appear in many trendy restaurants. Lavender martinis and teas, ice cream, cookies and other desserts accompany lavender-sauced meats and vegetarian dishes. Lavender is an ingredient in the herbs de Provence mix and replaces strong tasting herbs such as rosemary, thyme or mint in many cookbooks for meats, breads and general seasonings.

Some folks even use lavender as an antibacterial antiseptic to treat wounds and insect stings.

Even if you just want to enjoy lavender for the sake of its beauty and ease of maintenance, remember… Planting one of each of the three groups lets you love your lavender for three times as long. Enjoy!

Versatile Hydrangeas

Tall or short, red, pink, purple, blue, white and shades in between, few shrubs provide the versatility of hydrangeas. Generations of gardeners have loved and designed their gardens using these showy shrubs as summer privacy screens, landscape focal points and beautiful cut flowers. Now, thanks to new hydrangea introductions, there are even more ways to use them.

Discover the Newest Hydrangeas

New types of hydrangeas are being introduced every year, and these showstoppers are fast favorites among both experienced hydrangea aficionados as well as newcomers to the hydrangea craze.

‘Endless Summer’
Termed “the best new flowering shrub of the decade” by some gardeners, this cultivar has gained a reputation as the first “reblooming” hydrangea. Blooming from early summer to first frost on both new and old wood, it is unfazed by high heat or extreme cold. Now gardeners in colder microclimates can grow beautiful low maintenance 3-5’ tall and wide hydrangeas. The 8″ diameter mophead balls of light blue or pink flowers bloom the entire summer.

‘Bloomstruck’
A dwarf ‘Endless Summer’ this hydrangea grows to only 2-4’ tall and wide with pink or blue 4-5″ diameter mopheads on upright red-purple stems. Perfect for containers, in smaller gardens or in the front of cutting beds, it also graces balconies and decks. In fall, red-purple colored leaves extend the beauty.

Color Tip: Change the flower colors of ‘Endless Summer’ and ‘Bloomstruck.’ The soil pH affects the flower color of many hydrangeas. To intensify the pink color, decrease the acidity by adding hydrated lime. To intensify the blue color, increase the acidity by adding sulfur. Our staff can suggest products to help you determine your soil pH and the amount of lime or sulfur to use.

‘Quickfire’
Also known as Hydrangea paniculata, this variety blooms earlier than most other hydrangeas and has flowers along an elongated stalk. The flowers, blooming on new wood, open as white, gradually turning to pink in the summer and darker rose in the fall. The soil pH does not affect the flower color. As one of the hardiest hydrangeas, this beauty grows to 6′ tall in most soils, full sun or dappled shade and tolerates drought conditions.

‘Little Quickfire’
A dwarf form of ‘Quickfire,’ this tiny powerhouse has all the beauty and benefits of its bigger relative but in a small package. Growing only to 3-4′ tall with a slightly larger spread, this hydrangea makes a big statement in a little space when covered with blooms and can be an ideal choice to start out with hydrangeas.

‘Bobo’
Another paniculata hydrangea, this variety creates huge drama for such a little plant. Growing only to 3′ tall and wide, it’s a thriller in containers, and easily won the Gold Florall medal for best novelty plant. ‘Bobo’s early season white flowers also bloom on new wood and cover the plant on strong overhead stems. Unaffected by soil type or pH, this hardy hydrangea steals the show wherever it is planted.

No matter how you use these newcomers in your landscape – larger varieties in the back of beds or as borders, smaller options in the front or in containers – their long-lasting flowers will make you think summer truly is endless.

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All About Agastache

Agastache, commonly known as hyssop or hummingbird mint, is a delightful genus of perennial herbs and shrubs that belong to the mint family. With their striking spikes of flowers, aromatic foliage, and attractiveness to pollinators, Agastache plants have become increasingly popular among gardeners seeking low maintenance yet visually stunning additions to their gardens.

Benefits of Growing Agastache

Agastache is a dramatic and colorful perennial with benefits extending beyond its beauty.

Attracts Pollinators
Agastache flowers are a magnet for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, making them an excellent choice for pollinator gardens.
Long Blooming Period
Many Agastache varieties bloom from late spring to early fall, providing months of colorful flowers.
Low Maintenance
Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and requires minimal care, making it ideal for busy gardeners.
Aromatic Foliage
The leaves of Agastache exude a pleasant fragrance, which can repel pests and add an extra sensory dimension to your garden.
Versatility
Agastache plants are versatile and can be used in various settings, including borders, containers, and herb gardens.

Cultivating Agastache

Known for its easy-going nature, low-maintenance, and drought tolerance, Agastache care guidelines are easy to follow. All that’s required is:

Sunlight
Agastache thrives in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially in hotter climates.

Soil
Well-drained soil is essential for Agastache. Incorporate organic matter into the soil to improve drainage.

Watering
Water regularly, especially during the plant’s first growing season. Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and only requires occasional watering.

Pruning
Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding. Cut back the plants in late fall or early spring to promote new growth.

Fertilization
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring to support healthy growth.

Gardening With Agastache

Agastache can be used in garden design in a variety of ways to enhance the beauty, functionality, and ecological value of outdoor spaces. Here are several ways Agastache can be incorporated into garden design:

Pollinator Gardens
Agastache’s nectar-rich flowers make it an excellent choice for pollinator gardens. Planting Agastache alongside other pollinator-friendly plants creates a vibrant habitat for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, supporting biodiversity and ecosystem health.

Border Plantings
Agastache’s tall, upright flower spikes add vertical interest to garden borders. Planting Agastache along borders or mixed perennial beds provides structure and color throughout the growing season, creating a dynamic and visually appealing landscape.

Container Gardens
Compact varieties of Agastache are well-suited for container gardening. Planting Agastache in containers on patios, balconies, or outdoor living spaces adds color and fragrance to small-scale gardens, allowing gardeners to enjoy its beauty up close.

Herb Gardens
Agastache, particularly species like Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop), has culinary and medicinal uses. Incorporating Agastache into herb gardens provides both aesthetic value and practical benefits, allowing gardeners to harvest its leaves and flowers for teas, culinary dishes, and herbal remedies.

Rock Gardens
Dwarf varieties of Agastache with compact growth habits are ideal for rock gardens or alpine plantings. Their drought tolerance and heat resistance make them well-suited for these challenging environments, where they can add color and texture to rocky landscapes.

Wildlife Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage and nectar-rich flowers attract a variety of beneficial insects and wildlife to the garden. Planting Agastache alongside native grasses, shrubs, and perennials creates a diverse habitat that supports birds, butterflies, and other wildlife.

Cutting Gardens
Certain cultivars of Agastache are excellent as cut flowers for floral arrangements. Adding Agastache to cutting gardens allows gardeners to harvest its long-lasting blooms for bouquets and indoor displays, bringing the beauty and fragrance of the garden indoors.

Fragrance Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage adds sensory appeal to fragrance gardens. Planting Agastache near pathways, seating areas, or outdoor relaxation spaces allows garden visitors to enjoy its delightful scent while strolling through the garden or lounging outdoors.

Recommended Agastache Varieties

Agastache ‘Blue Boa’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Rich violet-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Tutti Frutti’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Multicolored flowers (pink, orange, lavender)

Agastache ‘Apache Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, peach, rose)

Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Sky’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers with lavender undertones

Agastache ‘Sonoran Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, pink, lavender)

Agastache ‘Summer Breeze’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Soft pastel hues (pink, lavender, white)

Agastache ‘Honey Bee Blue’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Golden Jubilee’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Golden-yellow foliage with lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Mexican Giant’
Hardiness Zones: 7 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Black Adder’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Apricot Sprite’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 12-18 inches
Color: Apricot-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Glow’
Hardiness Zones: 6 -10
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Peachy-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Arizona Sun’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Bright orange flowers

Agastache ‘Acapulco Salmon & Pink’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Salmon-pink flowers

Agastache ‘Kudos Gold’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 14-16 inches
Color: Golden-yellow flowers

Agastache ‘Heatwave’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Rosie Posie’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Rose-pink flowers

Versatile Agastache is a must-have plant for both new and seasoned gardeners. It offers beauty, fragrance, and ecological benefits. With its long blooming period, low maintenance requirements, and wide range of cultivars, there’s an Agastache variety to suit every garden style and preference. Consider adding Agastache to your landscape for years of enjoyment and beauty. Stop by and we’ll introduce you to the array of cultivars that we carry that are suitable for growing in our region.

Transitioning Traditional Lawns to Native Landscapes

Lush, green, well-manicured lawns… Americans are obsessed… or have been. But change is in the air.

The American Obsession

What is America’s obsession with lawns? It can be attributed to both historical and cultural factors.

Lawns hold a fascinating and ancient history. Who knew? As far back as 3000 BCE, in Mesopotamia, the concept of open green spaces around homes and temples emerged. The wealthy Babylonians and Assyrians cultivated grassy areas using irrigation systems.

The idea of manicured lawns began to take root during the Renaissance period in Europe. European aristocrats and wealthy landowners started cultivating grassy areas near their estates, often for recreational purposes like lawn bowling or as a backdrop for elaborate gardens. The tradition of the lawn was brought to North America by European settlers. Initially, lawns were limited to wealthy estates and public parks. However, by the 19th century, the rise of suburbanization and the emergence of the middle class led to more widespread lawn cultivation.

In the 20th century, the American suburbs played a significant role in popularizing the idea of the suburban lawn. The post-World War II housing boom saw the proliferation of single-family homes with neatly manicured lawns, reflecting ideals of prosperity, order, and suburban living. In the latter half of the 20th century, maintaining a lush, green lawn became ingrained in American culture. The advent of lawnmowers, sprinkler systems, and chemical fertilizers made it easier for homeowners to achieve the perfect lawn.

Americans have traditionally viewed lawns as a:

Sign of Prosperity – It’s associated with the idealized image of suburban life, where homeowners take pride in maintaining their properties to reflect a certain standard of living.
Status Symbol – Historically, having a well-manicured lawn symbolized wealth and social status. As suburbs expanded and the middle class grew, having a neat lawn became a way for homeowners to showcase their success and upward mobility.
Community Expectation – There’s a sense of social pressure within many American neighborhoods to keep up with the Joneses. Maintaining a tidy lawn is often seen as fulfilling a societal expectation and fitting in with community norms.
Recreational Necessity – Lawns provide space for outdoor activities and leisure. Whether hosting backyard barbecues, playing sports like soccer or Frisbee, or simply lounging in the sun, lawns offer a versatile outdoor living space that many Americans value.
Cultural Influence – The concept of the perfect lawn has been perpetuated through various forms of media, including advertising, television shows, and movies. These depictions often reinforce the idea that a well-kept lawn is essential for a happy, successful suburban life.
Connection to Nature – Despite being a cultivated landscape, lawns are often associated with nature and the outdoors. Many people find solace in spending time in green spaces, and a well-maintained lawn provides a sense of tranquility and connection to the natural world.

Modern Lawns

While the American obsession with lawns has deep historical and cultural roots, there’s also a growing awareness of the personal and environmental impact of traditional lawn care practices.

Evolving lifestyle choices, allocation of household funds, and personal time management all play a role in the changing suburban landscape and our love of lawns. Making an even greater contribution to this change are environmental concerns such as water usage, pesticide and herbicide contamination, fertilizer runoff, air and noise pollution caused by gas-powered lawn tools, and a new understanding of the need for biodiversity. All have prompted a reassessment of traditional lawn care practices. As a result, many homeowners are exploring native alternatives or reducing the size of their lawns in favor of more sustainable and eco-friendly options.

Transitioning Away From Traditional Lawns

Transitioning from a traditional lawn to a more environmentally friendly and sustainable landscape using native plants is a great idea. Here are some ideas to get started:

Evaluate Your Space: The first step in transitioning away from a traditional turf is to assess the amount of lawn space that you actually use and need. Traditional turf is still the clear choice for areas where lawn games are enjoyed, outdoor pet use, and such. Turn unimportant or unused traditional turf areas into native gardens. If you find a large, serene expanse of turf pleasing, consider replacing it with a native meadow or a no-mow native grass alternative.
Choose Native Plants: Research native plants well-suited to your region’s climate and soil conditions. Look for species that require minimal maintenance, attract pollinators, and provide habitat for local wildlife. Consider a mix of ground covers, grasses, wildflowers, shrubs, and trees to create a diverse and resilient ecosystem.
Plan Your Design: Sketch out a design for your new landscape, taking into account the natural contours of the land, existing structures, and any focal points you want to highlight. Group plants with similar water and sunlight needs together to optimize growing conditions and minimize maintenance. Employing a native plant landscape company will help move the transition along at a quicker pace while ensuring expertise in design, plant selection, and ongoing care.
Consider Traffic Patterns: Areas with heavy traffic patterns may be replaced with stone or gravel walkways and pathways through the native landscape gardens. Grassy gathering areas, such as those used for entertaining and grilling, may be replaced with a natural stone patio.
One Step at A Time: Depending on the size of your property, transitioning away from a traditional lawn and landscape to a native one can be overwhelming and costly. However, the long-term benefits for the greater good will outweigh these initial drawbacks. One solution is to install your plan one step at a time. Once you have your design, you may chunk out the project, accomplishing it in steps over time.
Prepare for Planting: Before planting, prepare the soil by removing existing turf and weeds. Consider using environmentally friendly methods such as sheet mulching or solarization to smother weeds and existing lawn. Amend the soil with organic matter like compost or leaf mulch to enhance fertility and drainage.
Plant Native Species: Start by planting larger trees and shrubs, then fill in the remaining areas with ground covers, grasses, and wildflowers. Be sure to space plants according to their mature size and growth habits to avoid overcrowding. Water newly planted specimens regularly until they become established, then gradually reduce irrigation to encourage deep root growth.
Mulch and Maintain: Apply a layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, tree leaves, or pine straw around newly planted areas to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Monitor your landscape regularly for signs of pests, disease, or drought stress, and address any issues promptly using natural or organic methods.

Even today, the lawn continues to be a staple of suburban landscapes, albeit with a growing emphasis on sustainability, biodiversity, the addition of more native plants, and alternative landscaping practices. From its origins in ancient civilizations to its evolution in modern society, the history of lawns reflects changing cultural values, social norms, and environmental awareness. It’s time to reduce our American obsession with lawns, change with the times, and consider transitioning to low-maintenance, environmentally friendly, sustainable lawn and landscape alternatives.

Winter Houseplant Care

With programmable thermostats, double-paned windows, and other tricks, we are able to keep our homes at the same climatic comfort level year-round. Indoor houseplants, however, can be sensitive to subtle seasonal changes. Even in a balanced home environment, proper winter houseplant care is essential to help plants thrive through this challenging season.

Winter Changes in Home Climates

While the winter changes in our homes are more subtle than the harsh freezes and deep snowfall outdoors, our home environments actually change more than we may realize. Depending on the conditions we like to maintain and the climate outdoors, winter changes may include…

Fewer hours of daylight, and the daylight that does exist is less intense than during the summer.
Lower temperatures often accompanied by chilly drafts from windows and doors.
Lower humidity levels, particularly if central heat has been running, which can dry out air.

These conditions are less than ideal for many houseplants, particularly tropical species that are adapted to longer hours of sunlight, higher temperatures, and richer humidity. Fortunately, with some extra care, winter houseplants can adapt and thrive even during the harshest winter months.

Adjusting Winter Houseplant Care

There are several steps you can take to adjust your houseplant care during the winter. Easy and effective steps include…

Reducing Watering – Many houseplants go dormant in the winter, and while their growth is slowed, they require much less water. Overwatering in winter can lead to root rot and other plant damage, so avoid watering houseplants excessively in the winter months. When you do water your houseplants, use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the plants’ roots.
Reducing Feeding – Similar to reducing the water a plant receives while dormant, reducing fertilizer is a good step to care for winter houseplants. Plants do not need as much nutrition when their growth is slowed and reducing plant food until spring will keep the plants from developing leggy or spindly growth.
Improving Humidity – Using a humidifier is a great way to provide better humidity for winter houseplants. Other options include clustering plants together so they can share the humidity from their own respiration, as well as positioning plants in a bathroom where humidity is naturally higher. Misting frequently can also help improve humidity, as can using a pebble tray underneath the plants, so long as the pots are not resting in water.
Relocating Plants – Moving winter houseplants to south or west-facing windows where they will get more light can help them thrive in winter. Take care that the plants’ foliage does not brush window glass, however, or the plants may get chilled or frosted.
Supplementing Light – In darker rooms or when dreary winter days seem endless, adding supplemental lights near houseplants can help them flourish. Choose the appropriate bulb size and strength for your plants’ needs. Other steps to increase natural light include opening draperies and washing windows so more light reaches each plant.
Dusting Plants – Houseplants easily acquire a layer of dust and debris without outdoor breezes to keep them clean. Use a soft, damp cloth to carefully wipe each plant’s foliage to remove that dusty layer or give plants a gentle shower to water and clean them at the same time. Clean plants will be able to absorb light more effectively.
Rotating Plants – Plants will stretch and turn their foliage in an effort to reach more sunlight, particularly in winter. To minimize this stretching and help keep plants growing straight and upright, rotate them every few days. This is easy to do for larger plants on casters or mobile plant stands.
Watching for Pests – Even in winter, pests can infest houseplants. Be diligent about watching for spider mites, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, and other common houseplant pests, and use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray to control the pests as soon as they appear, keeping the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Houseplants have many benefits, particularly in winter when an urban jungle can help mitigate Seasonal Affective Disorder and alleviate the depression and anxiety that often accompanies dreary winter days. By following proper winter houseplant care, you can keep all your plants happy and thriving even during more challenging months, just when you need their inspiration and a connection to nature the most.

Fresh Holiday Trees, Roping, Wreaths, and Greens

The holiday season is here, and with it comes the joyous tradition of decorating our homes with festive wreaths, garlands, roping, and arrangements. There’s something special about the smell of fresh evergreens that brings a warm, cozy feeling indoors. Let’s delve into the world of fresh holiday evergreens and explore the different types used in beloved holiday decorations.

Fraser Fir
The Fraser fir is among the most popular evergreens used in holiday décor. It has a beautiful, dense, symmetrical shape – the perfect Christmas tree – and its needles are deep green and soft to the touch, making it a favorite for use in wreaths and garlands. The Fraser fir is also known for its citrusy scent and, most importantly, its excellent needle retention, meaning it will stay fresh and lush throughout the holiday season.

Balsam Fir
The Balsam fir is another popular choice for natural indoor décor. It has a robust, spicy fragrance reminiscent of the great outdoors. Its bright green needles are shorter and stiffer than the Fraser fir, giving it a more textured look. The Balsam fir also has good needle retention, making it a durable choice for heavy ornaments.

Douglas Fir
The Douglas fir is the classic Christmas tree. It has a lovely aroma – a fresh mix of sweet pine and citrus. Its needles are soft and glossy. The white line below each needle gives this fir a bluish-green hue. The Douglas fir tree has a dense triangular shape, and its boughs are a beautiful addition to all evergreen holiday decorations. Despite having shorter needle retention than the previous two, it is still a favorite among decorators.

White Pine
White pine is a softer, more delicate-looking evergreen with long, feathery, blue-green needles. Its flexible branches make it an excellent choice for creating cascading garlands and wreaths with a graceful drape. Although White Pine is beautiful, it does not have good needle retention, so use should be planned for shorter periods.

Cedar
Cedar is a unique, textural, fragrant evergreen with light yellowish-green needles. It has a rustic charm and a fresh and spicy scent. Cedar is often used to create wreaths, garlands, and swags, and its thin, flexible branches are easy to work with. Its needle retention is not the longest, so it should be enjoyed while it lasts.

Fresh holiday trees, roping, wreaths, and cut bunches of greens are essential to the holiday season. With such a wide variety of evergreens available, it’s easy to create unique and stunning decorations embodying the season’s warmth and joy. Whether you prefer the Fraser fir’s soft needles or the Balsam fir’s spicy aroma, you can’t go wrong with any of these five popular types of evergreens.

Fall Mulching Pros and Cons

Mulch can add a protective layer to any fall garden, flowerbeds, or shrubs, but is it best for your landscape? Understanding the pros and cons of fall mulching can help you better prepare all your plants for the changing season.

Benefits of Fall Mulching

There’s no denying that when done properly, mulching in fall can provide enormous benefits to the landscape. The biggest pros of fall mulching include:

Insulating the soil.
Fall mulching preserves heat that will keep microbes, earthworms, and other life active and thriving in the soil longer to improve the soil condition. The insulation mulch provides will also help moderate temperature swings that can damage tender roots, especially those of newly planted plant material.
Saving time with spring chores.
Spring is a hectic season in the garden, but if mulching is already done in the fall, it doesn’t need to be redone in the spring and there will be more time to spend with other planting and gardening tasks when the weather warms.
Easier climate for working.
The milder temperatures of autumn make it more enjoyable to spend time outdoors with the heavy labor of spreading mulch. This is especially true if you will be mulching multiple flowerbeds, tree rings, borders, and other spaces throughout the landscape.
Simpler to spread.
If you mulch in spring, you may need to be delicately working around emerging sprouts and blooming bulbs. In fall, however, the work is less delicate after beds have already been cleaned out, and you can spread mulch much more quickly and efficiently.
Weed suppression.
Weeds don’t stop growing when summer ends, and just like spring mulching, spreading mulch in fall will help minimize weeds. This will make it easier to keep weeds under control when spring arrives again, and growth is renewed.
Preventing soil erosion.
Soils on sloped beds can quickly erode in autumn and winter weather as rain and snow batter the slopes. A good layer of mulch will protect the soil and keep it in place throughout the season, so it is ready to work again in the spring.
Nourishing the soil.
Organic mulches that are spread in autumn will have several months to settle and begin decaying. This will introduce more nutrients into the top layer of soil, so it is richer and healthier for spring planting.
Tidy Appearance
A fresh layer of mulch will always make the landscape and garden look well-tended.

Problems With Fall Mulching

While fall mulching can be very beneficial to the landscape, it may not be the best choice for your gardens. Potential cons of fall mulching include:

Stopping self-sowers.
Any herbs or flowers that would normally self-sow as seeds ripen will be inhibited by a layer of autumn mulch, and the yield for new growth in the spring will be significantly reduced. The thicker the mulch, the fewer seeds will germinate.
Time constraints of shorter days.
While the autumn climate may be perfect for big mulching jobs, shorter days and the risk of early snows or freezes can make it difficult to complete the undertaking. If the mulching is started too late in the season, it may not get finished before winter begins.
Loss of winter interest landscaping.
One benefit of fall mulching is that it is easier to spread the mulch over already pruned perennial beds. This same step, however, requires pruning perennial stems back which removes that winter interest from the landscape as it takes away stems, berries, and seeds that winter wildlife may have needed.
Attracting unwanted pests.
A deep layer of fresh mulch can be very attractive to unwelcomed fall and winter guests, including rodents and slugs that will burrow into the mulch and make themselves at home until spring. This problem can be minimized by taking care not to use too much mulch in autumn.
Depriving roots of oxygen.
While fall mulch will help moderate soil temperatures to protect delicate roots, a thick layer may also stifle airflow into the soil and deprive roots of essential oxygen. At the same time, excess moisture that accumulates under a thick mulch layer could lead to problems as well. Be sure to keep your fall mulching to no more than 2 inches deep from plant stem to the dripline.
Fading before spring.
Once fall mulch is laid, it will begin decomposing and could lose its sharp color and freshness long before spring arrives. This can be fixed simply by turning the mulch in the spring to refresh the layer even as new bulbs and shoots are starting to pop up to greet the season.

Fall Mulching Tips

Every gardener must decide when to mulch, and if you do want to take advantage of the benefits of fall mulching, doing so carefully can help prevent many of the cons. First, adjust the mulch depth to match the requirements of your local climate and plant needs – a layer 2-4 inches deep is typically adequate. Apply fall mulch after the first hard freeze when perennials can be cut back easily but take care not to pile it against tree trunks or shrub bases where it may invite gnawing pests or induce bark rot.

Mulching can be a very productive fall chore for flowerbeds, garden spaces, borders, and other parts of the landscape. It has to potential to save you time and energy and help keep your property looking its very best not only in autumn, but through the winter and into spring once again.

Dealing With Drought

Because plants require moisture to grow and thrive, your garden will probably suffer during periods of low rainfall and intense heat. Insufficient soil moisture will result in smaller flowers and fruit, stunted plant growth, decreased root development and increased plant disease and insect damage. Fortunately, there are many things that you can do to minimize the impact of drought on your garden.

Save Your Soil

Soil is like a sponge that holds and releases all the ingredients that your plants need to survive. Soils that drains quickly, such as sandy or rocky soil, will speed up and increase the effects of drought as water flows away from plant roots. The best way to correct this problem is to amend your soil with organic matter. Amending your soil adds to its moisture retaining ability, adds nutrients essential for plant health and increases soil aeration for ease of root growth. Good choices include:

compost
composted manure
composted or shredded leaf litter
mushroom soil
dried grass clippings
earthworm castings

First, amend soil immediately around plants, in landscaping beds and in the garden, but aim to amend all your soil and lawn eventually to improve its condition and drought-resistance.

Choose Drought-Tolerant Plants

Drought-tolerant plants are adapted to grow well in regions of low rainfall. These plants require minimal water to survive. When planting, try to group plants with the same water requirements together in an area best suited to their tolerance. Plants best adapted to dry conditions include:

locally native plants
plants with deep taproots
plants covered with hair
tiny leaved plants
succulents and cacti

Swapping out just a few water-hogging plants for more drought-tolerant options in your landscape can have a remarkable impact on saving water and still having a lush garden.

Use Drought-Friendly Watering Techniques

During a drought, you will need to water your garden, flowerbeds and lawn more thoughtfully to keep them well-watered but without waste or excess evaporation. The best way to water a garden is by drip irrigation or a soaker hose. Soaker hoses allow deep watering without runoff. Moisture goes directly into the soil where every precious drop can be absorbed by plant roots. With conventional overhead watering methods, about 35 percent of the water used is wasted due to evaporation. Time saving tip: Install a timing device with a moisture sensor to automatically turn your irrigation system on and off as required relative to any rainfall.

Sprinklers should be used primarily for lawns. Newly seeded or sodded areas must be watered daily during the summer months until established, then frequently through the first growing season. Rain gauges are good for checking the amount of rainfall or for sprinkler placement. Lawn Tip: Do not cut lawns shorter than 3” in the summer. This will shade the soil surface to allow the soil to remain cooler. Also, use a mulching mower to return moist clippings to the soil.

Containers and hanging baskets should be checked for watering every day. Watering wands are used for watering containers and hanging baskets, as they give a gentle spray without splashing the soil. Container Tip: When planting your pots and hanging baskets, incorporate moisture retaining polymers into the soil. When the soil starts to dry it will pull from this reserve.

Make Use of Mulch

After watering, you will want to conserve as much soil moisture as possible. Place at least 2-4 inches of mulch on the soil surface in the planting bed. Mulches help prevent soil moisture evaporation and reduce surface runoff, as well as minimizing weeds that would compete for any available moisture. Ideal mulches include:

wood chips
shredded bark
pine needles
grass clippings
decorative rocks
synthetic mulches

With some thoughtfulness about your plants’ watering needs and how to meet those needs, it’s easy to deal with drought conditions without sacrificing your plants.

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Bringing Butterflies to the Backyard

In spring, female butterflies will be mostly concerned with finding their species’ specific host plants on which to lay fertilized eggs. Instinctively, they know they must find plants to ensure that their caterpillars will have appropriate food for survival after hatching. Both male and female butterflies will be looking for flowers with nectar for their own survival. And, they will be searching for shelter from rainy or windy weather, a sunny place for basking, and a source of water. Because many natural butterfly habitats in North America are disappearing at an alarming rate, it is becoming increasingly difficult for butterflies to find these necessities of life.

Starting a butterfly garden can be simple and rewarding if you follow these pointers. The most important thing you can do as a gardener is to plant both nectar and host plants in your garden. Providing host plants for caterpillars to feed on, will allow you to watch the metamorphosis from caterpillar to chrysalis to butterfly. So, do not discourage caterpillars. They may make your garden plants look bad but it’s usually only temporary. Most important – do not use pesticides! You may be killing off the very insects you made the garden for. And, you don’t have to have a large area to get a response. Just a few select plants will spur some action. Choose the sunniest spot possible for your butterfly garden. It could be any size or shape; even a short border will work. A combination of woody shrubs, perennials and annual flowers works best, but using just a couple of plants can still yield results. Planting a section of wildflowers is an easy way to cover a problem area and lure some butterflies to your yard. If you don’t have the room for a garden, fuchsia, petunia or impatiens hanging baskets will attract butterflies as well as hummingbirds.

The following is a list of plants that attract butterflies:

Woody shrubs:

Glossy Abelia
Butterfly Bush
Japanese Privet
Honeysuckle
Weigela
Spiraea
Lilac
Deutzia
Trumpet vine

Perennials:

Achillea (Yarrow)
Butterfly Weed
Aster
Shasta Daisy
Cosmos
Carnation
Coneflower
Joe-Pye weed
Sunflower

Annuals and Tender

Perennials:

Heliotrope
Lantana
Rosemary
Marigolds
Petunias
Geraniums
Snapdragons
Portulaca
Zinnias
Allysum
Fucshia
Vinca
Balsam
Dahlia
Impatiens
Salvia
Verbena

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Summer Watering Tips

As the days heat up, watering can become a dreaded garden chore and too many gardeners use wasteful techniques that use plenty of water but don’t give their plants the moisture they really need. Make watering plants easier and more efficient with the proper practices and tools…

Mulches not only make plantings look more attractive, but their most important functions are to help retain soil moisture and minimize weeds, which would also usurp moisture from your plants. Mulch around plants to a depth of 2-4 inches, refreshing mulch as needed to maintain that depth and attractiveness.
Watering cans and small containers work great for spot watering plants with different watering needs by hand. You don’t always need to get out a hose or sprinkler to get the watering done.
Check to make sure that you have the proper length hose(s) to reach every corner of your garden. Take into account any obstacles in the way, and be sure you aren’t dragging the hose over any delicate plantings to reach more distant dry spots.
Add a water wand to the hose to get the water where it’s most needed – the base of the plants – without needing to bend over repeatedly, which can cause back strain.
The best time to water is during the early morning hours of a sunny day. This will allow plants to absorb more water before it evaporates when temperatures rise, but won’t leave water to sit on plants overnight when mold can develop.
Always water plants and container gardens thoroughly and deeply to encourage deeper, more drought-tolerant root systems. It is better to water less frequently but more deeply rather than more often but with less water.
In the landscape, a good rule of thumb is to provide an inch of water per week minimum. Keep track of precipitation with a rain gauge to avoid wasting water by overwatering when Mother Nature does the job.
New individual plants that are set out, direct sown seed beds, sodding, etc. often require daily care, including watering, until established. Check moisture levels carefully during this period so the plants are well cared for.
Use soaker hoses to provide slow drip watering. This allows plants to absorb water easily without wasting water by evaporating from foliage or spraying into the air. Soaker hoses can even be layered beneath mulch to preserve as much moisture as possible.
Pay extra attention to plants in containers and hanging baskets as they tend to dry out faster and with greater frequency. These plantings will likely need to be watered daily or even multiple times a day during heat waves.
Place Tree Gators, a drip irrigation bag, on newly planted trees for slow, steady watering that will soak down to the root system without draining away along the surface of the soil.

If you’ll be away on an extended vacation, or even just for a few days, make arrangements with a trusted friend or neighbor to “plant sit” while you are gone. There’s nothing worse than worrying about your garden while you’re away – except coming home to crisp plants that haven’t been watered properly!

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Shrubs for Summer Color

Many gardeners assume that the brightest flowers are only seen in spring, but there are many stunning shrubs that have great color all through the summer. Some feature outstanding blooms while others have equally showy foliage and can brighten up any yard. But which will look best in your yard?

Top Summer Color Shrubs

There are a number of tried-and-true summer-flowering shrubs that never fail to be impressive. Consider these favorites to enhance your landscape all summer long.

Hydrangea
This very popular mounding shrub is an old-fashioned favorite, but it doesn’t have to be just your grandmother’s shrub – there are hydrangeas for every situation and taste. Flowers appear in early summer and can last for several weeks. Choose from pink, blue (use an acidic fertilizer to maintain this unusual color) or white blooms. Large flower heads great for drying or make outstanding arrangements and bouquets when cut. These shrubs do best in light shade or sun. One of the easiest hydrangeas to grow is the native American oak-leafed hydrangea has lobed leaves with fragrant, conical-shaped flower heads.
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)
This dramatic shrub is truly a butterfly magnet, and hummingbirds love it as well. One of the most fragrant flowering shrubs, butterfly bush blooms from early summer to autumn frost, and different varieties can thrive in a wide range of growing zones. The flowers can be pink, purple, blue, yellow or white, and often feature elegant spiked panicles, arching branches and interesting foliage. These shrubs do best in full sun and come in different sizes to suit different landscaping areas.
Spirea
A generally low-maintenance choice, this shrub features golden yellow to lime-colored foliage all summer with pink or lavender blooms in late spring through summer. Goldmound, Gold Flame and Anthony Waterer are all great cultivars and easy care shrubs growing to about 2-4’ by 3-5’. This truly is the perfect shrub to use anywhere in the landscape, and it can tolerate sun to part shade growing conditions.
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus)
This is one of the showiest plants of the summer, and Rose of Sharon is also one of the easiest to grow. Dense growing and upright when young these shrubs will spread with age, so take care to plant them in appropriate spaces to avoid overcrowding. The dark green foliage contrasts nicely with large, showy flowers that can be up to 4” across. Flowers open in July and will continue blooming through late summer and into fall. Flowers are sterile, eliminating seed problems. This shrub is ideal to plant as a screen, hedge or focal point in full sun.
Blue Mist Spirea (Caryopteris)
This shrub is a great plant for late summer color with bursts of purple-blue flowers just when many other plants are growing dull. Its low-growing, mounding habit reaches 2-3’ wide by 2-3’ tall. Blue Mist Spirea is easy to grow and can tolerate some neglect. It should be planted in full sun, and will bloom from summer to fall.

With any of these shrubs in your yard, your summer landscape can be just as colorful and eye-catching as any spring flowers or autumn foliage.

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Top Native Shrubs for Year-Round Interest

We just love incorporating natives into the home landscape, and it’s easier to do than many gardeners realize. Including native plants is an important part of sustaining local pollinators and wildlife. Furthermore, native plants are naturally lower maintenance and pest-resistant, and wow, are they beautiful!

Favorite Native Shrubs

It’s easy to find native shrubs to provide interest in the garden the whole year through, from fresh spring growth to brilliant summer blooms to outrageous autumn foliage to stunning winter structure. Our list offers outstanding selections that will do well in a variety of moisture levels, soil types and sun exposures. Cultivars of these species offer variations in size, form, leaf color and shape as well as flower colors.

Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)
Deciduous shrub, 3-8 feet high x 4-6 feet wide. Fragrant white blooms in July to August. Full sun to part shade, but will tolerate heavy shade. Moist to wet soil, tolerates erosion and clay soil. Use as a hedge, to naturalize or in rain garden. Attracts butterflies.
Sweetfern (Comptonia peregrina)
Deciduous shrub, 2-5 feet high x 4-8 feet wide. Insignificant flower, ornamental and fragrant leaf. Full sun to part shade. Medium moist soil preferred, but also drought tolerant. Use to naturalize or in rain gardens.
Silky Dogwood (Cornus amomum)
Deciduous shrub, 6-12 feet high x 6-12 feet wide. Yellowish-white flowers in May to June followed by showy fruit. Full sun to part shade. Medium to wet soil. Deer tolerant. Good for erosion control. Use as a hedge or in a rain garden. Attracts birds.
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
Deciduous shrub, 3-12 feet high x 3-12 feet wide. Showy red fruit in the winter. Full sun to part shade. Medium to wet soil and tolerates clay soil. Tolerates air pollution. Controls erosion. Use as a hedge or in a rain garden. Attracts birds.
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
Broadleaf evergreen, 5-15 feet high x 5-15 feet wide. May-blooming with rose to white flowers with purple markings. Sun to part shade. Medium moist soil. Deer and rabbit tolerant.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)
Deciduous shrub, 6-12 feet high x 6-12 feet wide. Fragrant greenish-yellow, flowers and showy fruit. Part shade but can tolerate heavy shade. Medium soil moisture and drought tolerant. Deer tolerant. Can grow in clay soil. Attracts birds and butterflies.
Northern Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)
Deciduous shrub, 5-10 feet high x 5-10 feet wide. Showy fruit in the winter. Full sun to part shade. Dry to medium soil moisture. Use as a hedge, naturalize or in a rain garden. Attracts birds.
Pinxterbloom Azalea (Rhododendron viscosum)
Deciduous shrub, 3-5 feet high x 3-5 feet wide. Blooms white to pale pink in May to July. Part shade. Medium to wet soil moisture. Very ornamental and good as a cut flower. Tolerant of rabbits. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.
American Cranberry Bush (Viburnum opulus ‘americanum’)
Deciduous shrub, 8-12 feet high x 8-12 feet wide. White lacecap flowers in April to May. Edible fruit. Full sun to part shade. Medium soil moisture. Use as a hedge or in the shrub border. Attracts birds and butterflies.

If none of these suggestions quite meet your preferences for a year-round native shrub, stop in to see our experts for more tips and options – new species and cultivars are always arriving!

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Crape Myrtles

No yard or landscape should be without a crape myrtle, or two, or three or… many! How wonderful to have something that blooms so profusely during that time of year when most other plants are looking tired and worn from the summer heat and drought. The versatility of this plant makes it suitable for many types of yards and many uses, and once established, they will go on to add charm and delight to the landscape for many years.

About Crape Myrtles

Crape myrtles bloom in late summer and can be found in flower colors of pinks, lilac, white, reds and purples. Requiring very little maintenance once established, crape myrtles need a full sun location to thrive and they do not like wet feet. Keep these needs in mind when selecting a site to plant them. They will require some supplemental watering for the first year or so to get off to a good start and develop good roots. Crape myrtles are also pretty much pest-free, except for aphids on occasion and these are easily controlled with an insecticidal soap spray. Some varieties are more susceptible to powdery mildew than others but most of the newer varieties are more resistant to this fungus problem.

Planting Crape Myrtles

Although tolerant of a wide range of soil qualities, crape myrtles grow poorly in wet locations so be sure to select a well-drained planting site. Late spring to early summer is the best time to select and plant your new crape myrtles while they are actively growing and can settle in quickly. Plant at or slightly above ground level, spreading the roots out slightly and using mulch to protect and shelter the roots after planting. They do prefer a slightly acid soil.

Crape Myrtle Types

Crape myrtles can be found in shrub, multi-stem tree and single trunk tree forms. For best results select a cultivar whose growth characteristics and ultimate mature size fit your intended use. Planting a shrub- or tree-like crape myrtle in an area of limited space will require yearly pruning to keep it from outgrowing its place. Single- or multi-stemmed tree-form crape myrtles are ideal as flowering specimen trees or as small, flowering shade trees near patios, walkways and entrances. Shrub forms make an excellent accent in a shrub border when planted in groups. Dwarf plants are effective as large groundcovers, perennial bedding plants or container plants providing vivid, summer-flowering interest.

Pruning Crape Myrtles

If adequate room is provided, little pruning is required except to maintain shape or remove any dead or crossing branches. Remove any suckers or water sprouts to maintain tree forms and elegance. Blossoms are produced on new growth so you can prune anytime the plants are dormant through the winter.

With so much to love about these plants, there’s no reason not to add one to your yard this year! And next year, and the year after that, and the year after that…

Protecting Trees From Drought Stress

Summer can be the most stressful time of year for landscape plants with heat and drought being the main offenders. When not receiving sufficient moisture, plants are much more susceptible to insect and disease damage. Trees are the most valuable landscape plants and can be the most difficult to replace, so it is sensible that they should be given priority during periods of drought.

Identify Drought Trouble

Lack of water is not a clear indication of a drought when it comes to trees. Many trees have deep, active roots that can easily survive short periods without rain or moisture, but it is important to notice when they are starting to become drought-stressed. Wilting and curling leaves will appear on drought-stressed deciduous trees. Leaf edges will eventually turn brown and crispy and may drop prematurely. Evergreen needles will begin to turn brown at the tips. As the drought continues, the entire needle will turn brown.

Prioritize Which Trees to Help

Generally, the trees most at risk are those that are newly planted or transplanted, as well as any younger trees. The root system of these plants is underdeveloped or has been damaged by the planting. Trees that are growing in a restricted area should also be of greater concern. This includes trees planted in containers, the narrow grass strip between the street and sidewalk and trees grown adjacent to your house or driveway where they suffer more from reflected heat and have less underground space to spread their roots to collect sufficient moisture. Drought-sensitive plants like birches, beeches, dogwoods, Japanese maples and magnolias should also be given priority during drought conditions.

Watering During a Drought

It is best to begin good watering practices before the tree succumbs to drought stress. Trees need approximately one inch of water per week. If Mother Nature is not supplying it then you should.

It is best for the tree if the required water is applied all at one time to the soil, slowly and deeply. This can be accomplished by using irrigation bags on newly planted or small trees. Trees in a restricted area are best watered with a slow dripping hose placed at the base of the tree and moved frequently for even distribution. For larger trees, a soaker hose laid in a spiral pattern, radiating from the tree trunk out to the drip line, works well.

Take care that if your community has watering restrictions during drought conditions, you follow approved practices to maintain your trees without risking fines or fees from illegal watering.

Tips for Helping Drought-Stressed Trees

Always water the soil and not the leaves or needles of the tree.
2-4 inches of mulch placed over the soil, under the tree, from the trunk to just beyond the drip line, will help conserve soil moisture. Do not mound mulch against the tree trunk, which can encourage insects.
Water on overcast days, early in the morning or in the evening. Evaporation is slower during these times and more water will soak down to the roots.
Fertilizer can injure tree roots during times of limited soil moisture. Avoid using fertilizer during drought conditions. If amendments are necessary, choose compost or other gentle options instead of harsher fertilizers.

You can help your trees resist drought conditions with a little thoughtful care, and they will continue to thrive to help provide shade and beauty in your landscape.

Protecting Our Pollinators

Every garden requires pollinators, and bees are among the finest. Without them there would be limited flowers and far fewer fruits and vegetables. Did you know that about 30 percent of the food we eat depends on the pollination of bees, including onions, cashews, coffee, carrots, chocolate and vanilla? If we don’t protect these prolific pollinators, our landscapes, gardens and diets will be irrevocably changed.

About Bees

Although there are many bees that are great pollinators, like carpenter, mining, sweat and cellophane bees, some of the most well known and easily identified bees are the honeybee and bumblebee. Both of these bees live in social colonies and are cavity nesters. Because these bees are active all summer long, they require a constant supply of floral nectar close to their hive and they thrive in flower gardens, orchards and other areas with abundant blooms.

Unfortunately, both these types of bees – along with many others – are disappearing rapidly, and two key threats are to blame.

Habitat Loss: As more natural habitat is lost to development, there are fewer nesting locations and inadequate food supplies for bees. While meadows developed into resorts and parks disappearing for strip malls are obvious examples of development, other less visible developments that can hurt bees include widespread use of flower cultivars that do not produce adequate nectar, eliminating critical bee food sources.
Pesticide Drift: Widespread, abundant spraying of pesticides to protect crops, lawns and parks can inadvertently hurt bees. Stronger pesticides can kill bees directly, while less potent toxins can contaminate nectar and will gradually build up to fatal levels in bees’ systems. Even if pesticides are not sprayed in areas where bees are abundant, high level spraying can easily be spread by wind patterns into critical bee habitats.

Inviting Bees to Your Garden

Fortunately, it is easy to bring more bees to your garden and encourage healthy bee populations. To support local bees…

Planting a variety of flowers that will bloom throughout the entire summer to provide ongoing food supplies.
Opt for native flower varieties that will be more easily recognized and used by bees, instead of introduced flowers that are less familiar.
Eliminate chemical use in your yard, as much as possible, including on your lawn, garden and trees, especially while plants are in flower.
Provide bees a safe place for shelter and to lay their eggs. A wood pile is suitable, or you can invest in a specialized bee house.
Make sure that there is an available water source for your bees. A bird bath or any simple water basin works just fine.

Want to bring bees to your yard and help them feel at home? Start with this list of native plants bees love, and ask our experts for more tips about keeping your lawn and garden bee-friendly!

Native Plants That Attract Bees

Apple (Malus)
Aster (Aster)
Blackberry & Raspberry (Rubis)
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Blueberries (Vaccinium)
Currant (Ribes)
Elder (Sambucus)
Goldenrod (Solidago)
Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum)
Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium)
Lupine (Lupinus)
Penstemon (Penstemon)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)
Redbud (Cercis)
Rhododendron (Rhododendron)
Sage (Salvia)
Stonecrop (Sedum)
Sunflower (Helianthus)
Willow (Salix)

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