Author Archives: GCSDev

Joe Pye Weed: A Native Jewel

Joe Pye Weed, known botanically as Eutrochium (formerly Eupatorium), is a perennial favorite among gardeners seeking late-season, native bloomers that also encourage a variety of pollinators. Renowned for its tall stature, attractive foliage, and clusters of mauve-pink flowers, Joe Pye Weed is a staple and a jewel in pollinator-friendly gardens.

About

Joe Pye Weed is native to North America and thrives in the eastern United States and Canada, USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9. It typically grows in moist, well-drained soils along streams, in meadows, and at the edges of woodlands. This plant can reach heights of 3 to 7 feet, with some species and cultivars growing even taller. The lance-shaped leaves are arranged in whorls around sturdy stems, which can be purple or green. The flowers, blooming from mid-summer to early fall, form large, dome-shaped clusters that are particularly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.

As a native plant, Joe Pye Weed supports local ecosystems by providing nectar and pollen for pollinators. Its tall stems also offer habitat and shelter for various insects and birds. As an added benefit, it is highly resistant to deer and bunny browsing.

Joe Pye Weed Species & Cultivars

Sweet Joe Pye Weed (E. purpureum)

Typically grows 4 to 7 feet tall with vanilla-scented pinkish-purple flowers.

Cultivars:

‘Little Joe’: A compact form reaching 3 to 4 feet, ideal for smaller gardens.
‘Gateway’: Known for its robust growth and deep pink flowers, reaching 4 to 6 feet.

Spotted Joe Pye Weed (E. maculatum)

Distinguished by its spotted stems and lush, serrated leaves, growing 4 to 7 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Phantom’: A dwarf variety growing 3 to 4 feet tall with deep pink flowers.
‘Purple Bush’: Features dark purple stems and vibrant pink flower clusters.

Coastal Joe Pye Weed (E. dubium)

More tolerant of coastal conditions, typically 3 to 5 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Baby Joe’: A compact variety, growing up to 3 feet tall with rich mauve flowers.
‘Little Red’: Known for its red-tinged stems and bright pink flowers, reaching about 3 feet in height.

Planting & Maintenance

Planting Time: Plant Joe Pye Weed in the spring or fall, allowing the roots to establish before the extreme temperatures of summer or winter.

Spacing: Plants should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart, depending on the variety, to accommodate their mature size and ensure good air circulation, which helps prevent disease.

Light: While it can grow in partial shade, Joe Pye Weed performs best in full sun, where it will produce the most abundant blooms.

Soil: Joe Pye Weed prefers moist, well-drained soil but can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay. It thrives in slightly acidic to neutral pH levels.

Water: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first year after planting and in periods of drought. Established plants are somewhat drought-tolerant but still prefer regular watering.

Maintenance: Joe Pye Weed requires minimal maintenance. Cut back the stems to the ground in late winter or early spring to encourage new growth. Deadheading spent flowers will keep the plant looking tidy, although this is not necessary for the plant’s health.

Designing the Garden

Joe Pye Weed is a versatile, late-season perennial that offers numerous ecological benefits that make it a valuable addition to the home landscape and garden. Firstly, it is a powerhouse for pollinators, attracting a variety of bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects with its nectar-rich flowers. This supports the local ecosystem by enhancing pollination for other plants in the area. Secondly, Joe Pye Weed provides habitat and food for caterpillars and other insect larvae, contributing to the lifecycle of many species. Its deep root system helps prevent soil erosion, improve soil structure, and retain moisture, making it an excellent plant for stabilizing areas prone to erosion. Additionally, as a native plant, Joe Pye Weed is well-adapted to local climates and soil conditions, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. This contributes to a healthier, more sustainable garden environment. By planting Joe Pye Weed, gardeners can enhance biodiversity, support pollinator populations, and promote soil health.

Here are some ideas for Joe Pye’s use in the landscape garden:

Pollinator Gardens
Joe Pye Weed is an excellent addition to pollinator gardens. Its late-season blooms provide essential nectar for butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Pair it with other native plants like coneflowers (Echinacea), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia), and milkweed (Asclepias) for a diverse and attractive pollinator haven.
Back of the Border
Due to its height, Joe Pye Weed is ideal for the back of the border in mixed perennial beds. It creates a dramatic backdrop for shorter plants and helps add vertical interest.
Meadow and Prairie Gardens
Incorporate Joe Pye Weed into meadow or prairie-style plantings, where it can naturalize and spread. Its tall, airy flower heads blend beautifully with grasses and other wildflowers.
Rain Gardens
Joe Pye Weed thrives in moist conditions, making it a perfect candidate for rain gardens. Plant it in areas that receive runoff or where water tends to collect after rain.
Cut Flowers
The sturdy stems and long-lasting blooms make Joe Pye Weed an excellent choice for cut flower arrangements. Harvest the flowers when they are fully open for the best vase life.

Joe Pye Weed, with its striking, abundant, late-season flowers, attraction to pollinators, minimal care requirements, and diversified use, is a perennial that is invaluable in the home landscape. It is a North American jewel that all gardeners in zones 4 through 9 should include in their native plant collection.

Fabulous Hydrangeas for Show-Stopping Summer Color

Hydrangeas and are widely acclaimed for their large, showy blossoms that lend fabulous color to gardens from mid- to late summer. Their luxuriant dark green foliage offers a striking background to their large round or smooth blossoms. All hydrangeas are deciduous, and it’s a sure sign of spring when their tender green leaves begin to appear. Hydrangeas are spectacular when grown as single specimens and are equally fabulous when planted in mixed shrub borders. Some of our favorites…

Climbing Hydrangea – An excellent deciduous vine with glossy leaves and cinnamon colored exfoliating stems. White flowers bloom in early July. Easily climbs on masonry, reaching 10-20’ tall.
Oakleaf Hydrangea – An upright, irregular shrub that grows 4-6’ tall. Large leaves have excellent fall color. Creamy white flowers in July. Tolerates shade well.
Bigleaf (macrophylla) Hydrangea – Blue or pink flower clusters (5-10” across) appear in August. Flower color depends on the pH of the soil. Acid soils produce blue flowers, whereas alkaline soils produce pink blossoms. In garden settings, their colors can be changed by adding either sulfur or lime, depending on the color you want to achieve. Blossoms are produced on last year’s growth, so prune just after blooming.
Pee Gee Hydrangea – A small, low-branched tree that grows 10-15’ and arches under the weight of large flower clusters. White flowers bloom in July, turning pink and then brown with the first frost, holding on through winter. Flowers appear on previous year’s growth, so prune right after flowers start to turn pink.

Mopheads and Lacecaps – Which is Which?

Before you get the urge to dash out and buy the first hydrangeas that catch your eye, it’s wise to learn the difference between “mopheads” and “lacecaps.” As peculiar as these names sound, they truly are the names designated to two cultivar groups of macrophylla hydrangeas, and understanding the difference between them can help you choose the flowers you prefer.

Mopheads
Garden hydrangeas, also known as ‘mopheads,’ feature large round flowerheads resembling pom-poms and bloom from mid- to late summer. Mopheads bloom in solid masses, their clusters often so heavy that they cause their stems to droop and bend with elegant arches.
Lacecaps
Lacecap hydrangeas bear flat round flowerheads with centers of fertile flowers surrounded by outer rings of sterile flowers. The fascinating flowerheads of lacecap hydrangeas are also somewhat reminiscent of pinwheels.

You will be delighted with the versatility of these lovely shrubs, so relax and enjoy their beauty!

Climbing hydrangea vine.

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Grasses With Gusto

Ornamental Grasses lend a unique dimension to any landscape with their texture, sound, motion and architecture. By planting ornamental grasses, you can also add multi-seasonal excitement to your landscape. Either combined with other ornamental plants or featured by themselves in “Grass Gardens,” ornamental grasses are attractive from spring until late fall and often through winter as well.

Choosing Ornamental Grasses

It can be challenging to select the best ornamental grasses for your landscape. Choose from varieties that are short or tall, upright or weeping. Foliage can be bold or fine and comes in colors ranging from green, blue-green, lime-green, gold and red to variegated with horizontal or vertical bands of white or yellow. Flower heads can be showy plumes, fuzzy foxtails or airy particles and appear from mid-summer to fall, depending on variety. Dried flowers and leaves may persist into winter, looking particularly effective against a snowy backdrop.

Depending on the conditions of your landscape and your grass preferences, there are many different types of grasses to try.

Screens Or Barriers

Taller growing varieties such as Plume Grass (Erianthus ravennae) or Giant Miscanthus (Miscanthus floridulus) can be used as effective screens or windbreaks. The wind rushing through their foliage creates added sensations of sound and movement. Even some of the medium-sized growers, such as varieties of Miscanthus sinensis, can enclose a patio or act as a barrier against wind, noise or an undesirable view.

Specimens

Many ornamental grasses also make excellent specimen plants and can turn a dull corner into a focal point of color and texture. Some of the most dramatic grasses for specimen planting include Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis gracillimus) with its graceful arching vase shaped foliage and pinkish blooms which age to cream, and Porcupine Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’) that has upright green and yellow banded stems.

Waterscaping

Water gardens and ornamental grasses go together beautifully. A grouping of grasses looks particularly effective at the water’s edge, softening the boundary between land and water. Many grasses such as Miscanthus can tolerate moist conditions, some, like sweet flag (Acorus) and Giant Reed (Arundo donax), can grow in shallow water. Sedges (Carex), which are not true grasses, although similar in appearance, are also moisture-tolerant. Look for varieties with plain, variegated or golden foliage.

Groundcovers

Grasses that are groundcover varieties spread by underground stolons rather than forming tight clumps. One such selection is Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea ‘Picta’), a fast-spreading green-and-white variegated variety, particularly useful as a groundcover in difficult areas such as slopes or even under trees that cast light shade. Give this one plenty of space! You’ll also want to try green or variegated Liriope and Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon).

Beds and Borders

Massed in groups, ornamental grasses are wonderful as a background to, or in combination with, other plantings. Try planting them with perennials such as Black-eyed Susan, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ and Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ or ‘Sunny Border Blue’ for a dynamic summer and fall interest addition to your landscape. Varieties for mass planting include Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum), whose upright delicate flowers are held above leaves that turn reddish in the fall; Korean Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis acutifolia ‘Stricta’) which yields stunning buff-colored plumes over a long period and Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) that sports maroon foxtails which age to cream in late fall. A number of different forms of Fountain Grass are available: ‘Hameln’ is a dwarf variety with creamy foxtails, while ‘Moudry’ has unusual black flowers. For edging beds and borders, plant low-growing Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca). Its steely blue clumps hold their color though winter and contrast well with pink or purple flowers or foliage.

Growing Grasses

Ornamental grasses are relatively easy to grow. A site that receives at least six hours of sun per day is best, although varieties such as Hair Grass (Deschampsia) and variegated Miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’) can grow well in as little as four hours of sun. Soil preparation, as with everything you plant, is a must, so work in plenty of organic matter such as peat moss, humus or compost. Fertilize in early spring with 5-10-5 or bone meal, when new growth is starting to show. Clumps should be cut back to within 6″ of the ground at this time, and can be divided if needed.

You’ll love the look ornamental grasses can give your landscape, and these easy-care plants can be effective at many functions in many different types of landscapes. Give them a try today!

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Crazy for Coneflowers

Beautiful and dependable, Echinacea purpurea, or purple coneflower, is the crowning glory of the summer perennial garden. A member of the Aster family, all Echinacea species are native to North America. The genus Echinacea is derived from the Greek ‘echino’ meaning hedgehog, a reference to the spiny center disc flowers.

Coneflowers are practical as well as gorgeous. They have long been used as an herbal remedy to stimulate the body’s natural immune system. Both plant roots and tops are used in the production of herbal medicines. Echinacea purpurea has traditionally been used for this purpose, but research is being conducted on the nine other species to determine their usefulness for homeopathic treatments.

Cultivating Coneflowers

Coneflowers will thrive in a sunny location, planted in well-drained soil. They are tolerant of nutrient-poor soil, heat and humidity. Echinacea purpurea grows on thick sturdy stems from 3-5 feet tall and generally does not require staking. Coneflowers are long-blooming, the flowers are fragrant and they make a long-lasting cut flower. This is one of the top ten perennials for attracting butterflies to the garden. You may deadhead plants after the blooms have faded to improve their appearance and to encourage a second, but smaller, bloom. You may also leave seed heads in place. In the summer and fall, they attract and provide food for goldfinches and other seed-loving birds. In the winter, the black spent flower heads add ornamental interest as they contrast dramatically with pure white snow.

This perennial is not invasive, but will self-seed if flower heads are left to mature. Cut plants down to the basal foliage, the low growing rosette of leaves, in the spring. Plants should be lifted and divided about every four years or as crowns become crowded.

Where to Place Coneflowers

Purple coneflower is a great addition to the back of any sunny perennial border. Its rose-purple flowers, with their coppery-orange centers, look great with ornamental grasses, Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Sedum ‘Autumn Joy.’ Appropriate usage ideas include: cottage, meadow, prairie, wildflower, native and herb gardens, as well as butterfly gardens and any containers that serve similar purposes.

Favorite Coneflowers

America is having a love affair with Echinacea and several new cultivars are released each year, while popular favorites continue to be top choices.

Popular Echinacea Varieties

‘Baby White Swan’ – Dwarf ‘White Swan’
‘Bright Star’– Petals are pale purple-pink on the edge and darker toward disc
‘Coconut Lime’ – New for 2007, first double white coneflower
‘Doubledecker’ – Unusual two-tiered coneflower with ray petals in disc
‘Fancy Frills’ – Petals are frilled on the edge
‘Fatal Attraction’ – Vivid purple-pink flowers with 2 rows of petals
‘Fragrant Angle’ – Large, fragrant, snow white flowers
‘Green Envy’ – Unusual rounded green petals with magenta veining near the cone
‘Green Eyes’ – Magenta flower with a green center disc
‘Hope’ – Pale pink flower named in honor of a cure for breast cancer
‘Kim’s Knee High’ – Dwarf with recurved ray petals and large orange cone
‘Kim’s Mophead’ – Compact plant with white flowers
‘Magnus’ – 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year, purple-pink flowers, 3’ tall
‘Mars’ – Large orange cones surrounded by brilliant rose-purple petals
‘Merlot’ – Large rose-pink flowers on wine colored, sturdy stems
‘Pink Double Delight’ – Similar to ‘Razzmatazz’ with a more compact habit
‘Razzmatazz’ – Double, bright pink flower on very sturdy stems
‘Ruby Giant’ – Large, rich ruby-pink flowers that are highly fragrant
‘Ruby Star’ – Reddish-purple flowers held horizontally
‘Sparkler’ – Rose-pink flowers, white-splashed variegated foliage
‘Tiki Torch’ – Large, bright orange flowers
‘White Swan’ – White coneflower with downward reflexed petals

Echinacea Big Sky Series

‘After Midnight’ – Dwarf plant with brilliant magenta, highly fragrant blooms
‘Harvest Moon’ – Gold flower with golden-orange cone
‘Summer Sky’ – Bicolor flower, soft peach and rose petals
‘Sundown’ – Russet-orange with a prominent brown central cone
‘Sunrise’ – Lemon-yellow flowers
‘Sunset’ – Orange flowers with prominent brown central cone
‘Twilight’ – Vibrant rose-red with a deep red cone

Echinacea Meadowbrite Series

‘Mango Meadowbrite’ – Mango color, paler than orange meadowbright
‘Orange Meadowbrite’ – Large single blooms of rich sunset orange
‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – A true dwarf, only 18” high, bright pink flowers

The list that we have provided is not all-inclusive, nor an accurate representation of every coneflower variety we carry. Please stop by often as we continue to provide standard, new and unusual perennials, including many new types of coneflowers.

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Daylilies… Easy to Grow, Fun to Collect!

Few perennials can match the daylily (Hemerocallis) for versatility and durability. One of the most popular perennials, daylilies have become a collector plant for novice and experienced gardeners alike. Thousands of named cultivars are trouble-free to grow and adaptable to many conditions, which makes daylily collecting fun and easy. Although each lily-like flower lasts only one day, there are always more buds to open which provide summer color and a subtly changing garden for many weeks.

Using Daylilies

Just as there are many different daylilies to try, there are many different ways to try them. Plant them individually for a pop of color, or create a mixed border with other plants or multiple daylily types. Daylilies can be a fun surprise when naturalized in a grassy area or grouped in a mass as a groundcover over larger areas. Taller varieties can even become simple screens or create gentle privacy surrounds. The creative gardener may even use multiple daylilies to create fun patterns or pictures in a themed flowerbed.

Daylily Care

Daylilies tolerate dry, poor soil, but perform best and reach their full potential in rich well-drained beds. Different cultivars have different needs for sunlight, moisture and fertilizing, and while these flowers do well even if somewhat neglected, it is best to try to meet their needs so each bloom can flourish. Some will tolerate drought and frost better than others, while certain cultivars need more attention. All are quite low-maintenance, however, and will thrive for years even in marginal conditions.

Popular Daylilies

There are too many daylily types to list – there are more than 35,000 different cultivars – but some tried-and-true selections that are always favorites include…

Hyperion – 40” tall, space 18-24” apart. Delightfully fragrant, large, 5” primrose-yellow flowers with a green throat in mid to late summer. Full sun or part shade.
Mary Todd – 26” tall, space 24-30” apart. Golden or buff 6-7” flowers on a semi-evergreen foliage. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Stella De’Oro – 12-18” tall, space 18-24” apart. Golden yellow 2-3” flowers with a green throat on a compact plant. Reblooms all summer. Full sun.
Joan Senior – 25” tall, space 24-30” apart. Near-white 6” flowers with a green throat on an evergreen plant. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Becky Lynn – 20” tall, space 24” apart. Large, 6” rose-blend flowers with a green throat in a semi-evergreen plant. Blooms midseason, then reblooms. Full sun.
Rocket City – 36” tall, space 18-24” apart. Eye-catching, two-tone orange blossoms are up to 6” across. Blooms midseason. Full sun or part shade.

There are always more daylily types to try; come in today to see the latest, hottest, most amazing cultivars of these versatile blooms, and you’ll be eager to add more of them to your landscape.

Daylily Fun Fact:

The American Hemerocallis Society has classified daylilies by flower size. A miniature has flowers less than 3” in diameter, small-flowered cultivars have flowers from 3-4.5” and large-flowered cultivars have flowers 4.5” or larger.

Perennial Flowering Vines

Vines are valuable and versatile plants that provide a remarkable vertical display while using minimal ground space. Offering an extensive mixture of decorative foliage, flowers, fruits and fragrance, vines are generally fast-growing, relatively pest-free and require minimal maintenance.

Why Choose Vines?

There are numerous uses for vines in the landscape. They can visually soften fences, walls and trellises or dress-up a lamp or mailbox post. They will provide summer shade when grown over an arbor, gazebo frame or pergola. Vines may be used to provide privacy by screening a patio or porch and can define any outdoor living space when used to create living outdoor walls or green barriers.

Three things should be considered when selecting a vine for your garden:

Intended Use
If you want a thick barrier or screening look, opt for vines that will provide dense foliage, but if you prefer a more delicate vine, choose plants with more space in their foliage. Check flowering options, growth speed and how much training the vine will need to reach its full potential. At the same time, consider how the foliage is shed in autumn and how much care the vine may need to stay in good condition.
Planting Location
Like any plant in your landscaping, vines will have specific needs for sunlight, soil condition and watering. Also consider the size of the space where your vine will live to be sure it won’t crowd out nearby plants or be stunted in a too-small space. Condition the soil appropriately to nourish your vine, and adjust a drip system or sprinklers to provide adequate water as needed.
Vine Support
Vines need adequate support to stay upright and sturdy. Because vines climb in several different ways, support is critical. Wires, spirals, trellises, fences or arbors should support vines that use tendrils or a twining stem. Other vines attach themselves with aerial rootlets. These vines grow best on brick or stone walls. Some vines have no natural method to attach to a vertical structure and will just sprawl if not manually assisted with garden wire or string to an appropriate support.

You will want your vine to thrive for many years to come, therefore you must select the right vine for your chosen location. Use the chart below to learn about some of the more common, landscape-friendly vines you can welcome into your yard.

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Summer Lavenders

Do you enjoy making herbal or floral bouquets and wands to scent the house? Maybe you’re into the lavender cooking trend or like to infuse playful summer drinks with a floral touch. Perhaps you recognize the aromatherapy or medicinal qualities of lavender.

In other words, do you love lavender and are frustrated because the bloom season is so short?

Whatever you do with your lavender, you may have planted one and it bloomed for a few weeks. Now you think you have to wait another year to enjoy the beauty and fragrance. That’s no fun! But here’s a secret to prolong your passion during lavender season…

About Lavenders

There are actually three groups of lavenders. Members of each group bloom around the same length of time, but each group blooms at different times. By planting at least one member of each group, you can enjoy lavender from early spring to mid-summer (and sometimes even longer with careful watering).

Members of the “Non-English Lavenders” bloom from early to late spring. “English Lavenders” follow and bloom from late spring to early summer. True summer lavenders, known as “Lavendins,” continue blooming into the hottest days of summer.

Also called “English Lavender hybrids,” the varieties in this summer group are crosses between the Portuguese and English Lavenders. They all have large gray leaves, grow into large plants, and grow best in the heat. They are all very fragrant, making them welcome additions to any lavender garden.

Abriali Lavender was one of the first hybrids. It produced cosmetic-grade oil until Grosso Lavender replaced it with superior oil production. Happily, gardeners can also enjoy Grosso in their gardens, as it’s frequently available at garden centers.

White Grosso Lavender, with the same beauty and fragrance, provides a nice background for a mixed flower border. Edelweiss Lavender, a smaller white lavender, mixes nicely in the garden, without a reduction of fragrance.

Hidcote Giant Lavender and Provence Lavender are garden center favorites. Approximately the same size, the Hidcote Giant has darker flowers than the Provence, which has a longer flower wand. Sachets usually contain Provance buds because they are exceptionally easy to remove from the stalk. Other popular varieties include Grappenhall, Dutch Mill, Seal and Fred Boutin lavenders.

Lavenders In the Garden

Growing lavenders could not be easier. All thrive in full sun in warm, well-drained, average quality soil. Dampness, either through poor drainage or humidity, will kill them. They grow well in pots with good drainage and fair soil. Prune after blooming to shape the plants and promote future blooming. While lavender is drought resistant, if the soil is dry, it is necessary to water well. Water again only when the soil is dry. Using compost as fertilizer will provide critical nutrients and improve soil drainage.

Using Lavender

Lavenders are very attractive to bees. They happily buzz from flower to flower while collecting pollen. Some honey producers site their hives in the middle of lavender fields to produce lavender-scented honey. The honey’s aroma is a great way to start the day!

Drying lavender for future use is easy. Cut bundles of wands from the plants without cutting into the older woody part of the plant. Use a rubber band to hold the bundles together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry room such as an attic or closet. The darkness helps retain the bloom color. The bundle should be dry in 7-10 days.

Although lavender’s taste isn’t the same as its fragrance, lavender dishes appear in many trendy restaurants. Lavender martinis and teas, ice cream, cookies and other desserts accompany lavender-sauced meats and vegetarian dishes. Lavender is an ingredient in the herbs de Provence mix and replaces strong tasting herbs such as rosemary, thyme or mint in many cookbooks for meats, breads and general seasonings.

Some folks even use lavender as an antibacterial antiseptic to treat wounds and insect stings.

Even if you just want to enjoy lavender for the sake of its beauty and ease of maintenance, remember… Planting one of each of the three groups lets you love your lavender for three times as long. Enjoy!

Versatile Hydrangeas

Tall or short, red, pink, purple, blue, white and shades in between, few shrubs provide the versatility of hydrangeas. Generations of gardeners have loved and designed their gardens using these showy shrubs as summer privacy screens, landscape focal points and beautiful cut flowers. Now, thanks to new hydrangea introductions, there are even more ways to use them.

Discover the Newest Hydrangeas

New types of hydrangeas are being introduced every year, and these showstoppers are fast favorites among both experienced hydrangea aficionados as well as newcomers to the hydrangea craze.

‘Endless Summer’
Termed “the best new flowering shrub of the decade” by some gardeners, this cultivar has gained a reputation as the first “reblooming” hydrangea. Blooming from early summer to first frost on both new and old wood, it is unfazed by high heat or extreme cold. Now gardeners in colder microclimates can grow beautiful low maintenance 3-5’ tall and wide hydrangeas. The 8″ diameter mophead balls of light blue or pink flowers bloom the entire summer.

‘Bloomstruck’
A dwarf ‘Endless Summer’ this hydrangea grows to only 2-4’ tall and wide with pink or blue 4-5″ diameter mopheads on upright red-purple stems. Perfect for containers, in smaller gardens or in the front of cutting beds, it also graces balconies and decks. In fall, red-purple colored leaves extend the beauty.

Color Tip: Change the flower colors of ‘Endless Summer’ and ‘Bloomstruck.’ The soil pH affects the flower color of many hydrangeas. To intensify the pink color, decrease the acidity by adding hydrated lime. To intensify the blue color, increase the acidity by adding sulfur. Our staff can suggest products to help you determine your soil pH and the amount of lime or sulfur to use.

‘Quickfire’
Also known as Hydrangea paniculata, this variety blooms earlier than most other hydrangeas and has flowers along an elongated stalk. The flowers, blooming on new wood, open as white, gradually turning to pink in the summer and darker rose in the fall. The soil pH does not affect the flower color. As one of the hardiest hydrangeas, this beauty grows to 6′ tall in most soils, full sun or dappled shade and tolerates drought conditions.

‘Little Quickfire’
A dwarf form of ‘Quickfire,’ this tiny powerhouse has all the beauty and benefits of its bigger relative but in a small package. Growing only to 3-4′ tall with a slightly larger spread, this hydrangea makes a big statement in a little space when covered with blooms and can be an ideal choice to start out with hydrangeas.

‘Bobo’
Another paniculata hydrangea, this variety creates huge drama for such a little plant. Growing only to 3′ tall and wide, it’s a thriller in containers, and easily won the Gold Florall medal for best novelty plant. ‘Bobo’s early season white flowers also bloom on new wood and cover the plant on strong overhead stems. Unaffected by soil type or pH, this hardy hydrangea steals the show wherever it is planted.

No matter how you use these newcomers in your landscape – larger varieties in the back of beds or as borders, smaller options in the front or in containers – their long-lasting flowers will make you think summer truly is endless.

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All About Agastache

Agastache, commonly known as hyssop or hummingbird mint, is a delightful genus of perennial herbs and shrubs that belong to the mint family. With their striking spikes of flowers, aromatic foliage, and attractiveness to pollinators, Agastache plants have become increasingly popular among gardeners seeking low maintenance yet visually stunning additions to their gardens.

Benefits of Growing Agastache

Agastache is a dramatic and colorful perennial with benefits extending beyond its beauty.

Attracts Pollinators
Agastache flowers are a magnet for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, making them an excellent choice for pollinator gardens.
Long Blooming Period
Many Agastache varieties bloom from late spring to early fall, providing months of colorful flowers.
Low Maintenance
Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and requires minimal care, making it ideal for busy gardeners.
Aromatic Foliage
The leaves of Agastache exude a pleasant fragrance, which can repel pests and add an extra sensory dimension to your garden.
Versatility
Agastache plants are versatile and can be used in various settings, including borders, containers, and herb gardens.

Cultivating Agastache

Known for its easy-going nature, low-maintenance, and drought tolerance, Agastache care guidelines are easy to follow. All that’s required is:

Sunlight
Agastache thrives in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially in hotter climates.

Soil
Well-drained soil is essential for Agastache. Incorporate organic matter into the soil to improve drainage.

Watering
Water regularly, especially during the plant’s first growing season. Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and only requires occasional watering.

Pruning
Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding. Cut back the plants in late fall or early spring to promote new growth.

Fertilization
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring to support healthy growth.

Gardening With Agastache

Agastache can be used in garden design in a variety of ways to enhance the beauty, functionality, and ecological value of outdoor spaces. Here are several ways Agastache can be incorporated into garden design:

Pollinator Gardens
Agastache’s nectar-rich flowers make it an excellent choice for pollinator gardens. Planting Agastache alongside other pollinator-friendly plants creates a vibrant habitat for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, supporting biodiversity and ecosystem health.

Border Plantings
Agastache’s tall, upright flower spikes add vertical interest to garden borders. Planting Agastache along borders or mixed perennial beds provides structure and color throughout the growing season, creating a dynamic and visually appealing landscape.

Container Gardens
Compact varieties of Agastache are well-suited for container gardening. Planting Agastache in containers on patios, balconies, or outdoor living spaces adds color and fragrance to small-scale gardens, allowing gardeners to enjoy its beauty up close.

Herb Gardens
Agastache, particularly species like Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop), has culinary and medicinal uses. Incorporating Agastache into herb gardens provides both aesthetic value and practical benefits, allowing gardeners to harvest its leaves and flowers for teas, culinary dishes, and herbal remedies.

Rock Gardens
Dwarf varieties of Agastache with compact growth habits are ideal for rock gardens or alpine plantings. Their drought tolerance and heat resistance make them well-suited for these challenging environments, where they can add color and texture to rocky landscapes.

Wildlife Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage and nectar-rich flowers attract a variety of beneficial insects and wildlife to the garden. Planting Agastache alongside native grasses, shrubs, and perennials creates a diverse habitat that supports birds, butterflies, and other wildlife.

Cutting Gardens
Certain cultivars of Agastache are excellent as cut flowers for floral arrangements. Adding Agastache to cutting gardens allows gardeners to harvest its long-lasting blooms for bouquets and indoor displays, bringing the beauty and fragrance of the garden indoors.

Fragrance Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage adds sensory appeal to fragrance gardens. Planting Agastache near pathways, seating areas, or outdoor relaxation spaces allows garden visitors to enjoy its delightful scent while strolling through the garden or lounging outdoors.

Recommended Agastache Varieties

Agastache ‘Blue Boa’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Rich violet-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Tutti Frutti’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Multicolored flowers (pink, orange, lavender)

Agastache ‘Apache Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, peach, rose)

Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Sky’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers with lavender undertones

Agastache ‘Sonoran Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, pink, lavender)

Agastache ‘Summer Breeze’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Soft pastel hues (pink, lavender, white)

Agastache ‘Honey Bee Blue’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Golden Jubilee’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Golden-yellow foliage with lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Mexican Giant’
Hardiness Zones: 7 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Black Adder’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Apricot Sprite’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 12-18 inches
Color: Apricot-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Glow’
Hardiness Zones: 6 -10
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Peachy-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Arizona Sun’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Bright orange flowers

Agastache ‘Acapulco Salmon & Pink’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Salmon-pink flowers

Agastache ‘Kudos Gold’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 14-16 inches
Color: Golden-yellow flowers

Agastache ‘Heatwave’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Rosie Posie’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Rose-pink flowers

Versatile Agastache is a must-have plant for both new and seasoned gardeners. It offers beauty, fragrance, and ecological benefits. With its long blooming period, low maintenance requirements, and wide range of cultivars, there’s an Agastache variety to suit every garden style and preference. Consider adding Agastache to your landscape for years of enjoyment and beauty. Stop by and we’ll introduce you to the array of cultivars that we carry that are suitable for growing in our region.

Transitioning Traditional Lawns to Native Landscapes

Lush, green, well-manicured lawns… Americans are obsessed… or have been. But change is in the air.

The American Obsession

What is America’s obsession with lawns? It can be attributed to both historical and cultural factors.

Lawns hold a fascinating and ancient history. Who knew? As far back as 3000 BCE, in Mesopotamia, the concept of open green spaces around homes and temples emerged. The wealthy Babylonians and Assyrians cultivated grassy areas using irrigation systems.

The idea of manicured lawns began to take root during the Renaissance period in Europe. European aristocrats and wealthy landowners started cultivating grassy areas near their estates, often for recreational purposes like lawn bowling or as a backdrop for elaborate gardens. The tradition of the lawn was brought to North America by European settlers. Initially, lawns were limited to wealthy estates and public parks. However, by the 19th century, the rise of suburbanization and the emergence of the middle class led to more widespread lawn cultivation.

In the 20th century, the American suburbs played a significant role in popularizing the idea of the suburban lawn. The post-World War II housing boom saw the proliferation of single-family homes with neatly manicured lawns, reflecting ideals of prosperity, order, and suburban living. In the latter half of the 20th century, maintaining a lush, green lawn became ingrained in American culture. The advent of lawnmowers, sprinkler systems, and chemical fertilizers made it easier for homeowners to achieve the perfect lawn.

Americans have traditionally viewed lawns as a:

Sign of Prosperity – It’s associated with the idealized image of suburban life, where homeowners take pride in maintaining their properties to reflect a certain standard of living.
Status Symbol – Historically, having a well-manicured lawn symbolized wealth and social status. As suburbs expanded and the middle class grew, having a neat lawn became a way for homeowners to showcase their success and upward mobility.
Community Expectation – There’s a sense of social pressure within many American neighborhoods to keep up with the Joneses. Maintaining a tidy lawn is often seen as fulfilling a societal expectation and fitting in with community norms.
Recreational Necessity – Lawns provide space for outdoor activities and leisure. Whether hosting backyard barbecues, playing sports like soccer or Frisbee, or simply lounging in the sun, lawns offer a versatile outdoor living space that many Americans value.
Cultural Influence – The concept of the perfect lawn has been perpetuated through various forms of media, including advertising, television shows, and movies. These depictions often reinforce the idea that a well-kept lawn is essential for a happy, successful suburban life.
Connection to Nature – Despite being a cultivated landscape, lawns are often associated with nature and the outdoors. Many people find solace in spending time in green spaces, and a well-maintained lawn provides a sense of tranquility and connection to the natural world.

Modern Lawns

While the American obsession with lawns has deep historical and cultural roots, there’s also a growing awareness of the personal and environmental impact of traditional lawn care practices.

Evolving lifestyle choices, allocation of household funds, and personal time management all play a role in the changing suburban landscape and our love of lawns. Making an even greater contribution to this change are environmental concerns such as water usage, pesticide and herbicide contamination, fertilizer runoff, air and noise pollution caused by gas-powered lawn tools, and a new understanding of the need for biodiversity. All have prompted a reassessment of traditional lawn care practices. As a result, many homeowners are exploring native alternatives or reducing the size of their lawns in favor of more sustainable and eco-friendly options.

Transitioning Away From Traditional Lawns

Transitioning from a traditional lawn to a more environmentally friendly and sustainable landscape using native plants is a great idea. Here are some ideas to get started:

Evaluate Your Space: The first step in transitioning away from a traditional turf is to assess the amount of lawn space that you actually use and need. Traditional turf is still the clear choice for areas where lawn games are enjoyed, outdoor pet use, and such. Turn unimportant or unused traditional turf areas into native gardens. If you find a large, serene expanse of turf pleasing, consider replacing it with a native meadow or a no-mow native grass alternative.
Choose Native Plants: Research native plants well-suited to your region’s climate and soil conditions. Look for species that require minimal maintenance, attract pollinators, and provide habitat for local wildlife. Consider a mix of ground covers, grasses, wildflowers, shrubs, and trees to create a diverse and resilient ecosystem.
Plan Your Design: Sketch out a design for your new landscape, taking into account the natural contours of the land, existing structures, and any focal points you want to highlight. Group plants with similar water and sunlight needs together to optimize growing conditions and minimize maintenance. Employing a native plant landscape company will help move the transition along at a quicker pace while ensuring expertise in design, plant selection, and ongoing care.
Consider Traffic Patterns: Areas with heavy traffic patterns may be replaced with stone or gravel walkways and pathways through the native landscape gardens. Grassy gathering areas, such as those used for entertaining and grilling, may be replaced with a natural stone patio.
One Step at A Time: Depending on the size of your property, transitioning away from a traditional lawn and landscape to a native one can be overwhelming and costly. However, the long-term benefits for the greater good will outweigh these initial drawbacks. One solution is to install your plan one step at a time. Once you have your design, you may chunk out the project, accomplishing it in steps over time.
Prepare for Planting: Before planting, prepare the soil by removing existing turf and weeds. Consider using environmentally friendly methods such as sheet mulching or solarization to smother weeds and existing lawn. Amend the soil with organic matter like compost or leaf mulch to enhance fertility and drainage.
Plant Native Species: Start by planting larger trees and shrubs, then fill in the remaining areas with ground covers, grasses, and wildflowers. Be sure to space plants according to their mature size and growth habits to avoid overcrowding. Water newly planted specimens regularly until they become established, then gradually reduce irrigation to encourage deep root growth.
Mulch and Maintain: Apply a layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, tree leaves, or pine straw around newly planted areas to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Monitor your landscape regularly for signs of pests, disease, or drought stress, and address any issues promptly using natural or organic methods.

Even today, the lawn continues to be a staple of suburban landscapes, albeit with a growing emphasis on sustainability, biodiversity, the addition of more native plants, and alternative landscaping practices. From its origins in ancient civilizations to its evolution in modern society, the history of lawns reflects changing cultural values, social norms, and environmental awareness. It’s time to reduce our American obsession with lawns, change with the times, and consider transitioning to low-maintenance, environmentally friendly, sustainable lawn and landscape alternatives.

Winter Houseplant Care

With programmable thermostats, double-paned windows, and other tricks, we are able to keep our homes at the same climatic comfort level year-round. Indoor houseplants, however, can be sensitive to subtle seasonal changes. Even in a balanced home environment, proper winter houseplant care is essential to help plants thrive through this challenging season.

Winter Changes in Home Climates

While the winter changes in our homes are more subtle than the harsh freezes and deep snowfall outdoors, our home environments actually change more than we may realize. Depending on the conditions we like to maintain and the climate outdoors, winter changes may include…

Fewer hours of daylight, and the daylight that does exist is less intense than during the summer.
Lower temperatures often accompanied by chilly drafts from windows and doors.
Lower humidity levels, particularly if central heat has been running, which can dry out air.

These conditions are less than ideal for many houseplants, particularly tropical species that are adapted to longer hours of sunlight, higher temperatures, and richer humidity. Fortunately, with some extra care, winter houseplants can adapt and thrive even during the harshest winter months.

Adjusting Winter Houseplant Care

There are several steps you can take to adjust your houseplant care during the winter. Easy and effective steps include…

Reducing Watering – Many houseplants go dormant in the winter, and while their growth is slowed, they require much less water. Overwatering in winter can lead to root rot and other plant damage, so avoid watering houseplants excessively in the winter months. When you do water your houseplants, use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the plants’ roots.
Reducing Feeding – Similar to reducing the water a plant receives while dormant, reducing fertilizer is a good step to care for winter houseplants. Plants do not need as much nutrition when their growth is slowed and reducing plant food until spring will keep the plants from developing leggy or spindly growth.
Improving Humidity – Using a humidifier is a great way to provide better humidity for winter houseplants. Other options include clustering plants together so they can share the humidity from their own respiration, as well as positioning plants in a bathroom where humidity is naturally higher. Misting frequently can also help improve humidity, as can using a pebble tray underneath the plants, so long as the pots are not resting in water.
Relocating Plants – Moving winter houseplants to south or west-facing windows where they will get more light can help them thrive in winter. Take care that the plants’ foliage does not brush window glass, however, or the plants may get chilled or frosted.
Supplementing Light – In darker rooms or when dreary winter days seem endless, adding supplemental lights near houseplants can help them flourish. Choose the appropriate bulb size and strength for your plants’ needs. Other steps to increase natural light include opening draperies and washing windows so more light reaches each plant.
Dusting Plants – Houseplants easily acquire a layer of dust and debris without outdoor breezes to keep them clean. Use a soft, damp cloth to carefully wipe each plant’s foliage to remove that dusty layer or give plants a gentle shower to water and clean them at the same time. Clean plants will be able to absorb light more effectively.
Rotating Plants – Plants will stretch and turn their foliage in an effort to reach more sunlight, particularly in winter. To minimize this stretching and help keep plants growing straight and upright, rotate them every few days. This is easy to do for larger plants on casters or mobile plant stands.
Watching for Pests – Even in winter, pests can infest houseplants. Be diligent about watching for spider mites, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, and other common houseplant pests, and use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray to control the pests as soon as they appear, keeping the infestation from spreading to other plants.

Houseplants have many benefits, particularly in winter when an urban jungle can help mitigate Seasonal Affective Disorder and alleviate the depression and anxiety that often accompanies dreary winter days. By following proper winter houseplant care, you can keep all your plants happy and thriving even during more challenging months, just when you need their inspiration and a connection to nature the most.

Fresh Holiday Trees, Roping, Wreaths, and Greens

The holiday season is here, and with it comes the joyous tradition of decorating our homes with festive wreaths, garlands, roping, and arrangements. There’s something special about the smell of fresh evergreens that brings a warm, cozy feeling indoors. Let’s delve into the world of fresh holiday evergreens and explore the different types used in beloved holiday decorations.

Fraser Fir
The Fraser fir is among the most popular evergreens used in holiday décor. It has a beautiful, dense, symmetrical shape – the perfect Christmas tree – and its needles are deep green and soft to the touch, making it a favorite for use in wreaths and garlands. The Fraser fir is also known for its citrusy scent and, most importantly, its excellent needle retention, meaning it will stay fresh and lush throughout the holiday season.

Balsam Fir
The Balsam fir is another popular choice for natural indoor décor. It has a robust, spicy fragrance reminiscent of the great outdoors. Its bright green needles are shorter and stiffer than the Fraser fir, giving it a more textured look. The Balsam fir also has good needle retention, making it a durable choice for heavy ornaments.

Douglas Fir
The Douglas fir is the classic Christmas tree. It has a lovely aroma – a fresh mix of sweet pine and citrus. Its needles are soft and glossy. The white line below each needle gives this fir a bluish-green hue. The Douglas fir tree has a dense triangular shape, and its boughs are a beautiful addition to all evergreen holiday decorations. Despite having shorter needle retention than the previous two, it is still a favorite among decorators.

White Pine
White pine is a softer, more delicate-looking evergreen with long, feathery, blue-green needles. Its flexible branches make it an excellent choice for creating cascading garlands and wreaths with a graceful drape. Although White Pine is beautiful, it does not have good needle retention, so use should be planned for shorter periods.

Cedar
Cedar is a unique, textural, fragrant evergreen with light yellowish-green needles. It has a rustic charm and a fresh and spicy scent. Cedar is often used to create wreaths, garlands, and swags, and its thin, flexible branches are easy to work with. Its needle retention is not the longest, so it should be enjoyed while it lasts.

Fresh holiday trees, roping, wreaths, and cut bunches of greens are essential to the holiday season. With such a wide variety of evergreens available, it’s easy to create unique and stunning decorations embodying the season’s warmth and joy. Whether you prefer the Fraser fir’s soft needles or the Balsam fir’s spicy aroma, you can’t go wrong with any of these five popular types of evergreens.

All About Amaryllis

A bold, flowering bulb, amaryllis is popular for its winter blooming habit and makes a colorful indoor plant as well as a great gift for anyone with a green thumb. But how much do you really know about these familiar flowers?

What Is Amaryllis?

These plants are part of the flowering bulb genus Hippeastrum, which is native to South America, Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean in tropical and subtropical regions. It must be noted that the familiar amaryllis can easily be confused with the genus Amaryllis, which is actually native to southern Africa and is most successful only when grown outdoors. Hippeastrum flowers, on the other hand, thrive indoors and are widely sold as gifts and houseplants in the winter months.

Hippeastrum bulbs range from 2-5 inches in diameter and are relatively fleshy. Each bulb will produce several spear-like, stiff leaves that can reach 12-20 inches long. Along with the foliage, each bulb can produce 1-2 long stems that will yield 2-12 trumpet-shaped flowers with large, triangular petals. The bloom colors range from white, red, orange, salmon, pink and peach to deeper hues of burgundy and purple. Variegated and striped blooms are also popular.

Blooms may last for several weeks, and the foliage can persist long after the blooms die.

Potting and Caring for Amaryllis

Unpotted, dormant bulbs should be stored in a cool (55 degrees Fahrenheit), dark, dry location. Before planting, the bulbs should be brought to room temperature, and the roots can be lightly rehydrated in lukewarm water for an hour or two before planting, but the base of the bulb itself should be kept dry to minimize the risk of rot. While these bulbs will bloom in water – they’re often sold in clear, decorative vases with the roots reaching into water and pebbles used as a planting medium – they will do better when properly planted, which will also encourage reblooming.

The best pot for a single amaryllis bulb will be just an inch wider than the bulb’s diameter, or several bulbs can be planted together in a larger pot for a more dramatic display. Because these flowers grow so tall, however, the pot should be heavy enough to support their size. If necessary, adding several rocks or a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot before planting will help balance the weight to keep the arrangement stable, and a deeper pot will also provide adequate room for root growth. It may also be necessary to add a stake to support the tall flower stems, but be sure not to damage the bulb when adding a stake to the pot.

Rich potting soil is essential for the best amaryllis blooms, as these bulbs grow vigorously and require adequate nutrition to reach their full potential. When planting a bulb, it should be submerged in the soil up to its neck, but leaving the top quarter of the bulb uncovered. The soil should be tamped firmly to support the bulb. Place the pot in a warm, sunny spot when foliage emerges, and rotate the pot daily as the plant grows taller to ensure straight, upright growth that will better support heavy flowers.

Gently water the bulb until the first stems appear, but take care not to overwater the pot or the bulb and roots may rot. As the plant grows taller and the blooms emerge, more watering will be needed to keep it adequately moisturized.

It may take 7-12 weeks for an amaryllis to bloom, depending on the type and size of bulb, its growing conditions and the care it receives. Larger bulbs that produce more flowers will generally take longer to bloom, while smaller bulbs will have shorter flowers but will bloom more quickly.

After the Bloom

Because these plants are popular every holiday season, many people discard amaryllis bulbs after they have stopped blooming. It is possible, however, to encourage reblooming with the proper care.

After the flowers have faded, deadhead the blooms but leave the foliage intact. Sharp flower-pruning shears are best to avoid tearing the stem or causing it to bend or break. Your Amaryllis should be placed in the sunniest spot available, continue to water as necessary and monthly feeding should ensue. This will encourage leaf production which with photosynthesize adding nourishment to the bulb enabling it to produce flowers again next winter. Move the plant outside once all danger of frost has passed to a sunny location. Continue to water and begin fertilizing every other week.

If you want to control when your amaryllis blooms again, you will need to encourage the bulb to go dormant. This is done by stopping fertilization, allowing the soil to gradually dry out, and reducing sunlight and temperature so leaf production slows and eventually stops. The dormant period will generally last 8-10 weeks, so, if you would like your Amaryllis to bloom for Christmas, mid-August is the time to begin this process. When leaves brown naturally, cut them back, remove the bulb from the dry soil, wrap it in newspaper and store it at around 55 degrees Fahrenheit for 8 to 10 weeks. After this dormant period, repot the bulb in fresh soil and begin watering again. The bulb will start to produce leaves and flowers won’t be far behind. With the proper conditions and care, you can keep your amaryllis blooming for years to come.

Amaryllis flowers are attractive and bold, perfect for brightening any indoor landscape during a cold and dreary winter. By understanding these flowers and their needs, you can provide them with proper care to ensure they always look their best.

Fall Mulching Pros and Cons

Mulch can add a protective layer to any fall garden, flowerbeds, or shrubs, but is it best for your landscape? Understanding the pros and cons of fall mulching can help you better prepare all your plants for the changing season.

Benefits of Fall Mulching

There’s no denying that when done properly, mulching in fall can provide enormous benefits to the landscape. The biggest pros of fall mulching include:

Insulating the soil.
Fall mulching preserves heat that will keep microbes, earthworms, and other life active and thriving in the soil longer to improve the soil condition. The insulation mulch provides will also help moderate temperature swings that can damage tender roots, especially those of newly planted plant material.
Saving time with spring chores.
Spring is a hectic season in the garden, but if mulching is already done in the fall, it doesn’t need to be redone in the spring and there will be more time to spend with other planting and gardening tasks when the weather warms.
Easier climate for working.
The milder temperatures of autumn make it more enjoyable to spend time outdoors with the heavy labor of spreading mulch. This is especially true if you will be mulching multiple flowerbeds, tree rings, borders, and other spaces throughout the landscape.
Simpler to spread.
If you mulch in spring, you may need to be delicately working around emerging sprouts and blooming bulbs. In fall, however, the work is less delicate after beds have already been cleaned out, and you can spread mulch much more quickly and efficiently.
Weed suppression.
Weeds don’t stop growing when summer ends, and just like spring mulching, spreading mulch in fall will help minimize weeds. This will make it easier to keep weeds under control when spring arrives again, and growth is renewed.
Preventing soil erosion.
Soils on sloped beds can quickly erode in autumn and winter weather as rain and snow batter the slopes. A good layer of mulch will protect the soil and keep it in place throughout the season, so it is ready to work again in the spring.
Nourishing the soil.
Organic mulches that are spread in autumn will have several months to settle and begin decaying. This will introduce more nutrients into the top layer of soil, so it is richer and healthier for spring planting.
Tidy Appearance
A fresh layer of mulch will always make the landscape and garden look well-tended.

Problems With Fall Mulching

While fall mulching can be very beneficial to the landscape, it may not be the best choice for your gardens. Potential cons of fall mulching include:

Stopping self-sowers.
Any herbs or flowers that would normally self-sow as seeds ripen will be inhibited by a layer of autumn mulch, and the yield for new growth in the spring will be significantly reduced. The thicker the mulch, the fewer seeds will germinate.
Time constraints of shorter days.
While the autumn climate may be perfect for big mulching jobs, shorter days and the risk of early snows or freezes can make it difficult to complete the undertaking. If the mulching is started too late in the season, it may not get finished before winter begins.
Loss of winter interest landscaping.
One benefit of fall mulching is that it is easier to spread the mulch over already pruned perennial beds. This same step, however, requires pruning perennial stems back which removes that winter interest from the landscape as it takes away stems, berries, and seeds that winter wildlife may have needed.
Attracting unwanted pests.
A deep layer of fresh mulch can be very attractive to unwelcomed fall and winter guests, including rodents and slugs that will burrow into the mulch and make themselves at home until spring. This problem can be minimized by taking care not to use too much mulch in autumn.
Depriving roots of oxygen.
While fall mulch will help moderate soil temperatures to protect delicate roots, a thick layer may also stifle airflow into the soil and deprive roots of essential oxygen. At the same time, excess moisture that accumulates under a thick mulch layer could lead to problems as well. Be sure to keep your fall mulching to no more than 2 inches deep from plant stem to the dripline.
Fading before spring.
Once fall mulch is laid, it will begin decomposing and could lose its sharp color and freshness long before spring arrives. This can be fixed simply by turning the mulch in the spring to refresh the layer even as new bulbs and shoots are starting to pop up to greet the season.

Fall Mulching Tips

Every gardener must decide when to mulch, and if you do want to take advantage of the benefits of fall mulching, doing so carefully can help prevent many of the cons. First, adjust the mulch depth to match the requirements of your local climate and plant needs – a layer 2-4 inches deep is typically adequate. Apply fall mulch after the first hard freeze when perennials can be cut back easily but take care not to pile it against tree trunks or shrub bases where it may invite gnawing pests or induce bark rot.

Mulching can be a very productive fall chore for flowerbeds, garden spaces, borders, and other parts of the landscape. It has to potential to save you time and energy and help keep your property looking its very best not only in autumn, but through the winter and into spring once again.

Protecting Trees From Drought Stress

Summer can be the most stressful time of year for landscape plants with heat and drought being the main offenders. When not receiving sufficient moisture, plants are much more susceptible to insect and disease damage. Trees are the most valuable landscape plants and can be the most difficult to replace, so it is sensible that they should be given priority during periods of drought.

Identify Drought Trouble

Lack of water is not a clear indication of a drought when it comes to trees. Many trees have deep, active roots that can easily survive short periods without rain or moisture, but it is important to notice when they are starting to become drought-stressed. Wilting and curling leaves will appear on drought-stressed deciduous trees. Leaf edges will eventually turn brown and crispy and may drop prematurely. Evergreen needles will begin to turn brown at the tips. As the drought continues, the entire needle will turn brown.

Prioritize Which Trees to Help

Generally, the trees most at risk are those that are newly planted or transplanted, as well as any younger trees. The root system of these plants is underdeveloped or has been damaged by the planting. Trees that are growing in a restricted area should also be of greater concern. This includes trees planted in containers, the narrow grass strip between the street and sidewalk and trees grown adjacent to your house or driveway where they suffer more from reflected heat and have less underground space to spread their roots to collect sufficient moisture. Drought-sensitive plants like birches, beeches, dogwoods, Japanese maples and magnolias should also be given priority during drought conditions.

Watering During a Drought

It is best to begin good watering practices before the tree succumbs to drought stress. Trees need approximately one inch of water per week. If Mother Nature is not supplying it then you should.

It is best for the tree if the required water is applied all at one time to the soil, slowly and deeply. This can be accomplished by using irrigation bags on newly planted or small trees. Trees in a restricted area are best watered with a slow dripping hose placed at the base of the tree and moved frequently for even distribution. For larger trees, a soaker hose laid in a spiral pattern, radiating from the tree trunk out to the drip line, works well.

Take care that if your community has watering restrictions during drought conditions, you follow approved practices to maintain your trees without risking fines or fees from illegal watering.

Tips for Helping Drought-Stressed Trees

Always water the soil and not the leaves or needles of the tree.
2-4 inches of mulch placed over the soil, under the tree, from the trunk to just beyond the drip line, will help conserve soil moisture. Do not mound mulch against the tree trunk, which can encourage insects.
Water on overcast days, early in the morning or in the evening. Evaporation is slower during these times and more water will soak down to the roots.
Fertilizer can injure tree roots during times of limited soil moisture. Avoid using fertilizer during drought conditions. If amendments are necessary, choose compost or other gentle options instead of harsher fertilizers.

You can help your trees resist drought conditions with a little thoughtful care, and they will continue to thrive to help provide shade and beauty in your landscape.