Author Archives: Perennial Gardens, Inc.

Cultivating A Passion for Garden Photography

Does your gardening passion include taking photos of your plants and progress?

Capturing the beauty of a garden through photography is a gratifying experience that allows one to freeze moments of natural splendor in time. With cell phones, it couldn’t be easier. Whether it’s the vibrant hues of blooming flowers, the delicate dance of butterflies, or the serene charm of a sun-dappled pathway, garden photography celebrates the wonders of nature. Sharing these snapshots of joy with others can be equally rewarding. One outstanding way to showcase garden photos is through social media platforms like Instagram or Facebook, where fellow gardeners can admire and engage with the images. Another means is creating a dedicated blog to narrate the stories behind each photograph, sharing gardening tips, and fostering a sense of community among fellow green-thumbs. Furthermore, printing, and framing garden photos can transform them into tangible keepsakes, perfect for preserving the serenity and beauty of nature for perpetuity. Ultimately, sharing garden photos not only spreads joy but also inspires others to appreciate and cultivate their own slice of natural paradise.

We want to assist you if you’d like to increase your cell phone garden photography skills. Capturing beautiful snapshots of your garden just takes a little knowledge, practice, and patience. Let us introduce you to a number of useful cell phone photography tips from experts to help you take stunning photos to showcase the vibrant beauty of your garden.

Optimize Lighting
- Shoot during the golden hours, early morning or late afternoon, for soft and warm light ideal for capturing the beauty of your garden.
- Overcast days can provide even lighting, minimizing harsh shadows.
Clean Your Lens
- Before you start shooting, be sure to wipe the lens of your phone with a clean cloth to remove any dirt or smudges that could affect image clarity.
Focus on Composition
- Utilize the rule of thirds to create visually appealing compositions. Imagine dividing your frame into a grid of nine equal sections and placing key elements along the lines or at their intersections.
- Experiment with different angles to find the most flattering view.
Utilize Depth of Field
- Most smartphone cameras come with portrait mode or a similar feature that allows you to create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making your subject stand out.
- Experiment with selective focus to draw attention to specific elements within your garden, such as a single flower or a butterfly resting on a leaf.
Mind Your Background
- Be mindful of what’s in the background of your photos. Look for clean, uncluttered backgrounds that won’t distract from your main subject.
- Experiment with different angles and perspectives to find the most pleasing background for your composition.
- Choose backgrounds that complement your flowers without distracting from them.
Capture Details
- Capture the intricate details of your plants, details that make your garden unique. Get up close and personal to depict the elaborate patterns of petals, the delicate veins of leaves, or the tiny insects that call your garden home.
- Use the macro mode on your smartphone camera, if available, to obtain stunning close-up shots with incredible detail.
Embrace Natural Elements
- Incorporate natural elements such as water droplets, dew-covered leaves, or beams of sunlight filtering through the trees to add visual interest to your photos.
- Feel free to get creative and experiment with different ways to incorporate these elements into your compositions.
Catch Seasonal Changes
- Document the various stages of your flowers, from bud to bloom. This adds a dynamic element to your photography.
- Showcase the seasonal transformations of your garden.
Steady Shots
- Keep your phone steady to avoid blurry images. Use both hands or lean against a stable surface.
- If your phone has manual settings, experiment with adjusting the exposure for better results.
Play with Perspectives
- Experiment with different perspectives – shooting from above, below, or at eye level.
- Capture the essence of your flowers by including wider shots that showcase the overall beauty.
Edit Wisely
- After taking your photos, spend some time editing them to enhance their beauty further, taking advantage of built-in editing tools or third-party apps to enhance your photos.
- Experiment with adjustments to brightness, contrast, saturation, and sharpness to fine-tune your images and make them pop.
Practice Patience
- Remember that great garden photography takes knowledge, practice, and patience. Take the time to explore your garden thoroughly, waiting for the perfect moments to seize it in all its glory.
- Don’t be discouraged by initial failures or setbacks. Keep experimenting, learning, and refining your skills, and you’ll soon be capturing stunning garden photos with ease.

Sharing plant and garden photos on social media is not just about showcasing botanical beauty; it’s a vibrant celebration of nature’s artistry and a delightful way to connect with like-minded enthusiasts. Whether it’s a stunning array of blossoms in full bloom or the intricate patterns of a succulent garden, each snapshot captures a moment of joy and inspiration. The fun lies in the camaraderie of sharing tips, tricks, and successes, fostering a sense of community among green thumbs worldwide. From swapping gardening hacks to marveling at rare plant finds, social media platforms become virtual gardens where friendships flourish amidst the foliage. Moreover, sharing these snapshots can inspire others to embrace the therapeutic joys of gardening, fostering a ripple effect of appreciation for the natural world. So, next time you capture the radiance of your garden, share it with the world and watch the seeds of inspiration bloom.

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Rain Barrels

You’ve heard it said, “When it rains, it pours.” In gardening terms, this could easily refer to the amount of rain on the roof going through the gutters and downspouts, and then out to the storm drains and pouring away from your garden. With the unpredictability of rain and the cost of water, don’t you wish you could keep some of that rain and put it to better use? You can, by installing a rain barrel, or two, or three or more. Rain barrels don’t have to be expensive or an eyesore.

The Best Rain Barrels

By diverting the gutter downspout to the rain barrel, rainwater is collected during a storm and stored. A fine mesh screen across the top prevents rocks and debris from entering the barrel and mosquitoes from laying their eggs. It’s a good idea to use a small amount of algaecide to prevent algae from building up in the barrel as well. Some barrels even have a solid cover with an opening to fit the downspout into, and the darkness inside the barrel helps inhibit algae growth.

Most rain barrels have two spigots, one at the top and one by the bottom. Attaching a hose to the top spigot redirects excess water when the barrel is full. You may use this to connect to another rain barrel that stores the overflow from the first, or you may position the overflow hose to direct excess rain to a nearby flowerbed, tree, garden or other plantings that can benefit from a good soaking.

A hose attached to the bottom spigot allows the stored water to flow for use. Incidentally, the water pressure increases if the rain barrel is elevated even just a few inches, allowing gravity to assist getting every drop of precious water out of the barrel so it can be put to use.

Value of a Rain Barrel

Is it worth it? According to the United States Geological Survey (USGS), a rainstorm measured at 1/10th of an inch, over a 20’x30′ roof, would more than fill a 32-gallon rain barrel if all the water is properly directed. Multiply this amount by your water charge per gallon and you’ll see it won’t take long to pay back the small investment made in a few barrels.

Furthermore, rainwater is often better for watering garden plots, containers, flowerbeds and new plantings, and is even better for many houseplants. Rainwater does not contain the same chemical treatments or compounds found in tap water, so collecting rainwater is a healthier alternative for keeping all your plants well hydrated.

Not sure which rain barrels will suit your style or how to set them up effectively? Stop in to see our collection and consult with our experts to choose exactly the barrel that will help meet all your watering needs.

Watering Tomato Plants

Proper watering plays a significant role in producing a healthy tomato plant with tasty, meaty, juicy fruit. So, what’s the secret, and how can you be sure you are watering your tomatoes the right way?

Watering Location

Always water tomatoes at the root zone; never overhead water your tomato plant. Watering directly at the soil level will strengthen the plant’s root system and ensure the maximum amount of moisture reaches the roots. When you overhead water, much of the water will not make it to the roots as it evaporates before reaching the soil. Water droplets on plant leaves act as a magnifying glass and can burn tender plant tissue, damaging foliage that is essential to keep the plant healthy. Water dripping from leaf to leaf can also spread disease, infecting an entire crop. To be sure tomatoes are not being watered inappropriately, keep plants out of reach of lawn sprinkler systems or other inadvertent watering.

Watering Speed

Slow watering is essential to properly distribute moisture to a tomato plant. Allow the water to drip slowly into the soil, giving the plant roots time to absorb the moisture. A drip system is best and will also help with water conservation. Avoid using a hand held hose, as it is easy to either underwater or overwater using this method. Water to a depth of 8 inches to ensure all roots have access to adequate moisture. You can also use a watering reservoir, such as a gallon jug with several small holes in its bottom, to slowly and carefully water the plants without flooding the root zone.

Watering Frequency

A regular watering schedule is essential for the healthiest, most productive tomato plants. Water consistently to produce larger fruits and to avoid split and cracked fruit and blossom end rot. Tomato plants should be watered 2-3 times a week in the height of summer or when natural rain is lacking. A deep soaking rain counts and supplemental watering should be adjusted whenever Mother Nature lends a hand with watering chores. The top inch or two of soil should dry out between watering to be sure the plant is not getting too much moisture.

Watering Adjustments

There are several times when it may be necessary to adjust where, when and how much you water your tomatoes. Changes in local rainfall – increasing spring or summer rains, a sudden storm, an unexpected drought – can require changes in supplemental watering to keep the moisture to your tomatoes consistent. As plants grow and more fruit appears, more water may be needed to meet the plant’s watering needs and keep it lush and healthy.

By understanding the basics of watering tomatoes, you can keep your plants well hydrated without risk of either overwatering or underwatering, both of which could be disastrous for your tomato crop.

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Rose – Queen of the Garden

We all love roses. It may be the luxurious fragrances, rich colors or the elegant flower forms that attract us. It may be the memories that roses evoke. Whatever the reason, roses are one of the world’s most popular flowers. With so many different types of roses available, ranging from the diminutive miniatures to the towering climbers, there is no excuse to exclude this “Queen of Flowers” from your garden.

Rose Types

There are many types of roses to cultivate, and it can be difficult to choose. If you’re just getting started with roses, consider some of these popular favorites…

Hybrid Tea Roses: These blooms are a favorite of rose gardeners who enjoy long-stemmed, large flowers. Hybrid tea flowers have many petals and plants grow upright and tall, about 3-7 feet. These roses are appropriate in either a formal garden or informal planting.
Floribunda Roses: These roses have smaller flowers than hybrid teas with the flowers arranged in clusters. This rose bush is useful as a hedge for a border or privacy screen, and is equally stunning in mass plantings.
Grandiflora Roses: These beauties were developed by crossing hybrid teas with floribundas. This rose grows to around 10 feet tall so it should be used in the back of the border where its beauty won’t shroud other plants. The flowers of the Grandiflora are hybrid tea form and can be single stemmed or borne in clusters depending on the cultivar.
Climbing Roses: These roses make an outstanding vertical display when trained on arbors, walls, fences, trellises and pergolas and can grow from 8-15 feet tall. Flowers may be borne large and single or small and arranged in clusters.
Miniature Roses: These delicate nymphs are dwarf in every way – flowers, leaves and height. This rose may be mass planted as a ground cover, used as border or grown in containers on decks, patios and porches.
Shrub Roses: These flowers are renowned for their bushy habit and superior disease resistance making them an excellent choice for mass planting. The shrub rose flower may be either single or double. Some types have very showy rose hips.
Old Roses: These luscious heirlooms are making a come-back! Although bloom times and color choices are limited, old roses are much more fragrant, vigorous and disease resistant than modern roses. To obtain all the qualities of an old rose combined with a long bloom time of a modern rose, look for the David Austin varieties.

Not sure which rose is just right for your landscape or garden? Our rose experts will be glad to help you choose the perfect rose no matter what thoughts or emotions you want your garden to evoke. Stop in today to see the latest types of roses and the most popular cultivars for this year’s gardening.

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Vegetable Garden Weed Control

You may want to grow many different things in your vegetable garden, but weeds probably aren’t on your favorite edibles list. Weeding can be an enormous time-drain and is one of the the least liked gardening chores. What’s wonderful is that we have so many weed control methods to choose from; there’s a solution for every type of gardener and their schedule.

Safe Control Methods in Edible Gardens

When it comes to vegetable gardening, many gardeners are very particular about what goes into their soil and onto their plants, as it will eventually end up on their plates and in their bodies. Here are some indisputable safe and effective ways to control weeds, without chemicals, in your veggie or any other garden for that matter.

Apply corn gluten meal to prevent weed seeds from germinating (don’t use if direct seeding your garden as all seeds will be affected).
Plan your garden to crowd edible plants together, effectively crowding out weeds because there isn’t space left for them to grow.
Manually pull weeds when the soil is wet and roots are looser. This can be done after a natural rainfall or after supplemental watering.
Hoe when the soil is dry to break apart weeds and damage their roots. Pick up larger weeds after hoeing so they cannot reestablish themselves.
Mulch with salt hay which contains no weed seeds. The hay will shield weed seeds from the sunlight and moisture they need for germinating.
Lay biodegradable and compostable mulch film down to create a firm barrier to keep weeds out or to prevent existing weed seeds from germinating.
Attract seed-loving birds such as finches and sparrows, which will happily eat hundreds of weed seeds each day for natural control.
Consider raised beds or container gardening to more effectively control weeds and make any remaining weeding easier.
Use fire (with all appropriate safety precautions) to burn out unwanted weeds, especially in pathway areas or along garden borders.
Treat exposed weeds with boiling water – the hotter the better – to cook and kill them. Several treatments may be needed for the best effects.

Weeds can be some of our worst enemies in the garden, and it is impossible to eliminate every single weed all the time. By using multiple methods and keeping on top of the task, however, it is possible to minimize weeds and make this chore less onerous, without resorting to harsh chemicals.

Wild About Window Boxes

Window boxes can be an amazing addition to your home landscape, and they’re much more flexible and versatile than many gardeners realize. Take advantage of this great space and you’ll soon be wild about window boxes!

Choosing a Window Box

There are many types of window boxes available, from classic rectangles to wire frames with coir or sphagnum moss inserts. Wood and plastic boxes are also available, and they can be half-circles, have rounded ends on a longer box or may even be smaller boxes with pointed bottoms, a cone shape, suitable for just one or two favorite plants. While most window boxes are designed to be mounted beneath a window, they can also be positioned on a fence, deck railing or even a sunny patch of wall to add more beauty and growing space.

When choosing the best window box for your home, coordinate with the architecture of your house for a smooth, elegant look. Ideally, the box should be the same length as the window or just slightly shorter, but not so short that it looks out of place or unbalanced.

Window boxes come in a variety of popular or neutral colors, and some boxes can be painted to match your house’s window trim or siding exactly. When mounting the box, be sure it is securely supported so it will not tip or fall. Larger, heavier boxes may need additional brackets underneath to support the weight of a full box, taking into account not just the weight of the box itself, but also of the soil, water and mature plants.

Plants for Window Boxes

Any plants that are comfortable in small or medium-sized containers can thrive in window boxes. You may want to opt for flowers for a colorful accent to your home, or choose herbs, berries or even lettuce for a kitchen window box that will be easy to harvest. Small ornamental grasses and spreading ferns or spider plants are ideal choices for a green window box.

No matter what plants you choose, be sure they are suitable for the climate of the window box. Consider the amount of sun the box receives and when it may be shadowed throughout the day. Also note that window boxes against walls or fences, as opposed to boxes on railings, will receive more heat if the wall is dark in color. If the wall is white, it will reflect more light onto the plants. Take not of overhanging roofs that will prevent rain from reaching your window box. Supplemental water will be a necessity in this case.

You can use just one type of plant in a window box for a bold statement, or you may prefer a mixed container that combines textures, shapes and color for a more dramatic look. Consider mounding plants that will easily be seen above the edge of the box, or trailing varieties that will gracefully drape over the box and soften any harsh edges. Symmetry and balance can be important in window boxes, so be sure to envision how the plants will look when mature so the entire arrangement will complement your home and other nearby landscaping.

Best Window Box Care

Just like any container, window boxes require unique care to allow plants to reach their full potential. Fortunately, if you mount a window box outside a window that can be opened, it’s easy to open the window for watering, weeding and pruning as needed. Use a rich potting soil that will provide abundant nutrition for the plants, and fertilize as needed for the type of plants you’re growing. A nitrogen-rich fertilizer is best for leafy plants and dramatic foliage, while a fertilizer that is heavier in potassium will encourage brighter blooms and more flowering.

Because window boxes are containers, they will need more frequent watering, even daily or twice a day depending on the climate and how thirsty the plants may be. To make watering less of a chore, consider using automatic waterers such as watering bulb that will keep your window box properly hydrated. When you water by hand, a small watering can with a thin spout is best, as you’ll be able to get water directly to the soil without wasting precious water on plant foliage where it will do no good and has the potential to burn delicate foliage in a sunny situation.

When tending window boxes, use small, hand-sized tools that won’t disrupt other plants in the crowded space. Thinning or pruning the plants regularly will help encourage new growth to keep the plants lush and the box full. If you’ve planted an edible window box with herbs or veggies, harvesting when the plants are ready will provide richer flavors and spur new growth to lengthen the growing season and increase the plants’ yield.

Decorating a Window Box

While the plants in your box may be decoration enough, a window box can also be a great space to add extra decorative flair to your home. The box itself can be wrapped with a ribbon to add more color or coordinate with the current holiday. Decorative plant stakes or small garden flags provide bright accents that can be switched out with different seasons and holidays. You might even create a small fairy garden in a window box, with a quirky gnome or other whimsical figure peeking out from the fun foliage. In winter, pine boughs can be layered in the box for ongoing greenery along with colored or natural branches, and a small strand of lights can even be strung along the box for a glittering twinkle. If you prefer to light your box up year-round, you might even carefully place a solar plant stake or two in the box to highlight the arrangement.

Window boxes are far more than just small planting containers – they can be beautiful accents to your home, an extension to your growing space and even a spot for fun whimsy in your yard. You can make them into whatever you like – don’t be afraid to go wild!

Shade Gardening: A Natural Opportunity

Although developing a garden for a shady area may require a little extra planning, some more thought and a bit more effort than sunny spaces, there are many opportunities to grow remarkable, unusual plants in the shade garden. Shade-loving plants are often noted for their foliage and can be combined to produce appealing contrasts in form, texture and color. From the glossy, dark greens of camellias and rhododendrons to the soft, silvery lamiums and the bold-textured, brownish-purple leaves of bergenia, the diversity of foliage available is positively breathtaking!

Defining Shade

The term “shade” encompasses many light conditions. Shade can range from dense darkness to the light-dappled shade under a birch tree. Most plants require at least a few hours of direct light each day (light shade) to look their best, especially if they feature bright colors in foliage or blooms. Some plants, however, do best in an abundance of filtered light (medium shade), especially if the shade is provided in the afternoon to cut the strongest rays of the sun. In the meantime, a few plants can thrive in the darkness of a forest (dense shade), without ever being exposed to bright, direct sunlight.

Other factors you will need to consider when planting your shade garden are the amount of moisture your shady spot receives and the soil conditions. The soil under large trees is usually dry because of the “umbrella” affect created. Other locations may have soggy soil that will only allow bog-type plants to grow. The soil’s drainage, pH and texture will all have to be taken into account to create the best shade-loving garden.

Not sure where to start for finding plants for a shade garden? Top shade-loving perennials and their requirements include…

Perennials for Dry Shade:

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley)**
Dicentra ‘Luxuriant’ (Bleeding Heart)*
Epimedium perralchicum, pinnatum, pubigerum (Bishop’s Hat)*
Geranium maculatum, endressii, nodosum (Cranesbill)*
Helleborus foetidus*
Lamium maculaturm (Deadnettle)*
Polygonatum multiflorum (Soloman’s Seal)*

Perennials for Cool, Moist Soils in Shade:

Adiantum pedatum (Maidenhair Fern)**
Athyrium nipponicum ‘Pictum’ (Japanese Painted Fern)**
Cyrtomium (Japanese Holly Fern)**
Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern)**
Dryopteris marginalis (Marginal Shield Fern)**
Epimedium grandiflorum, warleyense*
Helleborus viridus, orientalis (Lenten Rose)*
Mertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebell)**
Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmas Fern)**
Polystichum setiferum ‘Divisilobum’ (Soft-Shield Fern)**
Tiarella cordifolia (Foam Flower)*
Tricyrtis formosana (Toad Lily)*
Trillium sessile, grandiflorum**
Trollius europaeus*

Perennial Groundcovers in Shade:

Acanthus mollis (Bear’s Breech)*
Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ (Goutweed)*
Asarum europaeum (European Wild Ginger)*
Galium odoratum (Sweet Woodruff)*
Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Florentinum’ (Variegated Archangel)*
Lamium maculatum ‘Beacon Silver’ (Dead Nettle)*
Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’*
Tiarella cordifolia (Foam Flower)*
Vinca minor*
Waldsteinia ternata (Barren Strawberry)*

Climbers for Shady Walls & Fences:

Akebia quinata, trifoliata
Clematis ‘Nelly Moser’
Euonymus fortunei ‘Coloradus’
Hedera helix (English Ivy)
Humulus lupulus (Golden Hops)
Lonicera japonica ‘Halliana’ (Japanese Honeysuckle)
Parthenosis henryana, quinquefolia, tricuspidata

*Does best in light shade
**Does best in medium to dense shade

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Strawberries: Home Grown in Hanging Baskets

Do you grow strawberries? Ripe, sweet, juicy strawberries are the number one favorite fruit in the US and are definitely worth the garden space. However, if you have a small or limited growing space, raising strawberries in hanging baskets offers a creative and space-saving solution while adding a decorative touch to outdoor areas.

Benefits of Growing in Hanging Baskets

Space Efficiency: Hanging baskets utilize vertical space, making them ideal for small gardens, balconies, and such.
Ability to Relocate: If an unforeseen deep frost or a scorching day arrives, hanging baskets may easily be temporarily relocated to a frost-free or cooler location.
Pest Management: Elevating strawberries can help deter pests like slugs and snails, reducing the risk of plant damage.
Improved Air Circulation: Hanging baskets allow for better airflow around the plants, which can help prevent diseases such as mildew.
Increased Water Drainage: Water drains quickly and easily from most hanging baskets, helping to prevent root rot.
Easy Access: Harvesting strawberries from hanging baskets is convenient and doesn’t require bending or stooping, making it suitable for gardeners of all ages and abilities.
Aesthetic Appeal: Hanging baskets add visual interest to your garden or outdoor space, providing a beautiful display of cascading foliage and ripe berries.

Selecting the Right Varieties:

Choose strawberry varieties that are well-suited for container gardening, such as Alpine, Day-neutral, and Everbearing. Alpine types do not produce runners, while Day-neutral and Everbearing types produce few runners, thus putting their energy into increased fruit production. It is best to avoid June-bearing types when planting in hanging baskets, as they produce excessive runners at the expense of fruit production. Also, consider factors like flavor, size, and yield when selecting varieties.

Alpine

Alpine strawberries are delightful little fruits that pack a punch of flavor despite their small size. What sets Alpine strawberries apart is their intense sweetness and aromatic fragrance. They typically have a more concentrated flavor compared to their larger counterparts, making them a favorite among gardeners and fruit lovers.

These plants are also known for their ability to produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season, ensuring a steady supply of delicious berries for eager growers.

Here are three popular varieties of alpine strawberries that thrive in hanging baskets:

Alexandria
This variety is prized for its sweet, aromatic berries and vigorous growth habit. ‘Alexandria’ produces an abundant yield of small, deep red fruits that pack a punch of flavor. They have a lovely trailing nature, which creates an attractive cascade of foliage and fruit. With proper care, ‘Alexandria’ plants can produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season, providing a steady supply of delicious strawberries for snacking or culinary use.
Mignonette
Renowned for its intense strawberry flavor, ‘Mignonette’ Alpine strawberries are a favorite among gardeners. These petite, ruby-red berries boast a rich, complex taste reminiscent of wild strawberries, making them a delightful addition to desserts or salads or enjoyed fresh off the vine.
Ruegen
With its vigorous growth and prolific fruit production, ‘Ruegen’ Alpine strawberries are a popular choice for hanging baskets. This variety produces medium-sized, bright red berries with a sweet, tangy flavor that is simply irresistible. ‘Ruegen’ plants feature cascading stems adorned with delicate foliage and clusters of berries, creating a picturesque display in hanging baskets.

Everbearing & Day-neutral

Everbearing strawberries typically produce two to three harvests of fruit each year: one in late spring to early summer, another in midsummer, and sometimes a third in early fall. They initiate flower buds in response to day length, meaning they typically produce their main crop in the spring and a smaller crop later in the season. After the initial flush of fruit, everbearing varieties may produce sporadic berries throughout the summer and into the fall. However, their fruiting is influenced by day length, so they may slow down or stop producing during the hottest months of summer.

On the other hand, Day-neutral strawberries are less dependent than Everbearing strawberries on day length for flowering and fruiting. Instead, they produce fruit consistently throughout the growing season, regardless of day length. Day-neutral varieties initiate flower buds based on temperature rather than day length, allowing them to flower and fruit continuously as long as temperatures remain within their preferred range. This makes them ideal for regions with mild climates where temperatures stay relatively consistent throughout the year. Day-neutral strawberries typically produce smaller harvests of fruit compared to everbearing varieties but over a longer period of time.

Here are our favorite everbearing and day-neutral strawberry varieties popular for growing in hanging baskets:

Seascape
‘Seascape’ strawberries are prized for their exceptional flavor, firm texture, high yields, and compact size, making them a top choice for hanging basket growth. These berries boast a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, making them excellent for fresh eating, preserves, or adding to desserts.
Tristar
Loved for its robust flavor and reliable performance, ‘Tristar’ strawberries are known for their intense sweetness and juicy texture, making them a delightful addition to salads and desserts or enjoyed fresh off the vine. ‘Tristar’ plants are compact and produce abundant fruit throughout the growing season, making them well-suited for small-space gardening and hanging baskets.
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‘Evie-2’ strawberries are esteemed for their large, flavorful berries and vigorous growth habit. These berries are known for their sweet, juicy flavor and firm texture, making them perfect for eating fresh, baking, or preserving. ‘Evie-2’ plants are compact and produce fruit prolifically throughout the season.
Albion
‘Albion’ strawberries are known for their large, firm berries and high yields. They have a deliciously sweet flavor and are resistant to several common strawberry diseases. Their compact, runnerless growth makes them an excellent choice for hanging baskets where space is limited.
Quinalt
‘Quinalt’ strawberries are another everbearing variety that produces medium-sized berries with a sweet, juicy flavor. ‘Quinalt’ strawberries are also known for their high tolerance to heat, making them a great choice for growing in containers during the summer months.

Each of these strawberry varieties offers something unique, whether it’s compact growth, continuous fruiting, disease resistance, or ornamental appeal, making them excellent choices for growing in hanging baskets.

Hanging Basket

Perennial Gardens offers a fantastic assortment of hanging baskets. When making your selections:

Opt for hanging baskets with sufficient drainage to prevent waterlogging.
Select a hanging basket large enough to hold your strawberry plant(s).
Ensure the basket is sturdy enough to support the weight of the soil and plants once they’re fully grown.
Choose a hanging basket color and style that goes well with your house.

Soil Mix

Use a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter.
If needed, incorporate perlite or vermiculite to improve aeration and drainage.
Consider adding slow-release fertilizer or compost for long-term nutrient availability.

Planting

Fill the hanging basket with the prepared soil mix, leaving enough space for the strawberry plants.
Gently remove the strawberry plants from their pots and carefully separate any tangled roots.
Plant the strawberries in the basket, ensuring the crown (where the roots meet the stem) sits just above the soil level.
Space the plants evenly to allow for proper growth and airflow.

Watering and Care

Provide adequate sunlight exposure, aiming for at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
Water the strawberries regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist but not sopping wet.
Mulch the surface of the soil to help retain moisture.

Maintenance and Harvesting

Remove any runners (long stems that produce new plants) to encourage the development of larger berries.
Fertilize the plants every 4-6 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvest ripe strawberries as they become ready, typically when they reach a deep, vibrant color and are firm to the touch.

Growing strawberries in hanging baskets makes cultivation and harvesting a cinch. Gardeners can enjoy fresh, flavorful berries while maximizing limited space. Why not give it a try this spring?

Growing Glowing Marigolds

Ah, marigolds—they are the unsung heroes of the summer flower garden. Resilient, bold, and long-blooming, they create a tapestry of glowing yellow, gold, orange, and red that shines in a sunny setting from late spring to frost.

Types

There are three main types of marigolds. They all have edible petals, are perfect for creating natural dyes, attract bees and butterflies, and share a distinct aroma that helps ward off some common garden pests. Yet, each type, with its own individual size and shape, holds a unique position in the garden.

French Marigolds (Tagetes patula)

French marigolds are compact, bushy plants with delicate, lacy foliage and brightly colored blooms in orange, yellow, and red shades. They are perfect for border edging, adorning container gardens, or nestled next to your vegetable plants. Their small size will not overshadow other plants in the edible garden.

African Marigolds (Tagetes erecta)

Taller than French marigolds, African marigolds exhibit larger, more showy flowers in creamy white, yellow, gold, and orange shades. They are the perfect addition to the middle of a bright-colored flower bed or border. Their statuesque form and long, sturdy stems make them an exquisite choice for cut flower arrangements.

Signet Marigolds (Tagetes tenuifolia)

With their delicate, fern-like foliage, Signet Marigolds are small in stature and produce tiny blooms in warm tones of red, orange, and yellow. With a citrusy flavor, these edible flowers look lovely as a garnish and taste delicious in salads. Signets work well for border edging, sunny window boxes, and containers.

Marigold Cultivation & Care

Marigolds are simple plants, easy to grow, with few demands. They aren’t fussy, but they do have some preferences.

Site: They flower best with a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight.
Soil: Regarding soil, they are partial to a well-draining one, rich in organic matter, with a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. If you’ve got sandy loam soil, you’ve hit the jackpot in the marigold world.
Pinching: Marigolds benefit from pinching when young, creating a fuller plant with plenty of side branching and blooms.
Feeding: Add granular organic or slow-release fertilizer to the soil at planting time, then feed plants every other week with a liquid fertilizer listed for flowering annuals.
Mulching: Adding a layer of mulch to the soil around your plants will help retain soil moisture and prevent weeds; plus, it looks great!
Watering: Deep, infrequent watering that allows the soil to dry out in between is what marigolds desire.
Deadheading: Frequently remove spent flowers to keep fresh blooms coming.

The 10 Best Marigolds for Your Home Garden

Select marigolds for a splash of sunshine in summer containers and gardens. There’s something about these vibrant flowers that just makes you smile! Here’s a curated list of the top 10 marigold varieties to brighten your growing space.

French Marigold ‘Petite Mix’
Imagine a kaleidoscope of colors from yellow and orange to deep maroon in your garden. The ‘Petite Mix’ is a dwarf variety, perfect for the foreground of borders and beds. Its small stature packs a punch of color that will dazzle you all summer long.
African Marigold ‘Crackerjack’
Standing tall and proud, ‘Crackerjack’ offers large, fluffy blooms that resemble the sun. This variety is a beacon of joy with its bright yellow and orange flowers, inviting butterflies to the garden.
Signet Marigold ‘Tangerine Gem’
Like little drops of citrus delight, ‘Tangerine Gem’ will light up your garden. Its dainty, edible flowers present a unique zest to salads. Plus, its lacy foliage makes it a visually attractive ground cover.
French Marigold ‘Durango Red’
Add some spice to your garden with ‘Durango Red.’ Its deep, velvety red blooms edged with gold bring an exotic flair. Compact and resilient, this marigold does wonders for container gardening.
African Marigold ‘Mission Giant Yellow’
The name says it all! ‘Mission Giant Yellow’ towers over other garden plants, bringing a majestic presence. Its massive, bright yellow blooms are a stunning focal point for any sunny spot.
Signet Marigold ‘Lemon Gem’
Sister to ‘Tangerine Gem,’ ‘Lemon Gem’ offers lemony yellow blossoms that sparkle against its feathery green foliage. It’s not just their appearance; these flowers also have a delightful lemony fragrance.
French Marigold ‘Harlequin’
A true showstopper, ‘Harlequin’ boasts bi-colored petals in fiery shades of red and gold. This marigold variety adds a dramatic flair to your garden, attracting attention wherever it blooms.
African Marigold ‘Vanilla’
For those who prefer a softer palette, ‘Vanilla’ offers creamy white flowers that provide a soothing contrast to the typical marigold colors. Its unexpected soft coloring will make visitors do a double-take.
Signet Marigold ‘Paprika’
Spice up your garden with ‘Paprika’. This variety features tiny, rustic orange blossoms scattered across a bush of green. It’s perfect for adding a sprinkle of warmth to your sunny containers and window boxes.
French Marigold ‘Bolero’
And last but certainly not least, ‘Bolero’ dances in your garden with its red and yellow fringed petals. It’s as if each flower is celebrating the joy of sunny days, inviting you to join in the festivity.

Each marigold variety brings its unique character to your summer garden, creating a tapestry of color and splash of splendor. Plan on growing a wide variety of marigolds this summer to grace your gardens with their warm, glowing colors, delightful flowers, unique fragrance, easy care, and long bloom time.

Why Is Deadheading Your Flowers Important?

Deadheading should be a regular garden task to maintain beautiful blooms, but why? What is the purpose of deadheading, how does it affect flowering plants, and how can you do it more effectively to make the most of every bloom?

About Deadheading

Deadheading is simply the process of removing faded, wilted, browning, or dead flowers from annuals or perennials before seeds are produced. Depending on the size of the flower and its type of stem, deadheading can be done by gently pinching back stems, snapping off the blooms, plucking off spent flowers, or cutting the stems with sharp snippers or pruners.

Why You Need to Deadhead Your Flowers

When you remove wilted blooms, you immediately improve the appearance of your shrubs and flowering plants by leaving only the best, most colorful, richest flowers to enjoy, and fallen petals will not spread rot or fungus to the plant’s lower leaves. Deadheading can also help your plants keep a tidy shape and will encourage fuller foliage. Removing dead flowers also lengthens the bloom time by forcing the plant to produce more flowers, and because dead blossoms are removed before they go to seed, you avoid unwanted seedlings taking over the lawn or flowerbed.

Deadheading also helps wildlife, as many butterflies and hummingbirds thrive on the nectar from boldly blooming flowers, so a longer bloom time and extra flowers will attract more of these colorful visitors to your yard. Extra blooming can also bring more color to your landscape later in summer and even into autumn for even more interest in your yard and landscape.

Some of the more familiar and widespread flowers that benefit from deadheading include…

Bee balm
Begonia
Columbine
Geranium
Lavender
Petunia
Rose
Salvia
Yarrow

Ask your garden center experts about the need to deadhead other types of flowers, including which deadheading techniques that can best benefit each plant.

How Deadheading Affects Plants

The visual affects of deadheading are immediate, but just how does deadheading impact each plant? As blooms begin to fade, plants focus their energy and growth on seed production rather than new blooms. When the blooms that are past their prime are removed through deadheading, however, the plant is effectively tricked into creating more blooms, thus increasing the overall bloom season. This is particularly important for annuals, as they only live for one growing season, so it is best to extend that bloom time for as long as possible. Furthermore, annual seeds are often unnecessary, as the plants will generally be replaced in the landscape the next spring. With perennials, deadheading has the same effect, and the process will help keep the plant’s shape and produce more prolific blooms for colorful accents.

Tips for Deadheading Your Flowers

Deadheading is an easy garden task, but it can quickly become overwhelming, particularly if you have many flowering plants to tend. Instead of letting the chore build up, consider spending a few minutes each day deadheading. That time can be a peaceful and soothing way to connect with nature without a lengthy commitment and will help keep the landscape lovely. Staggering the deadheading will also mean fewer flowers to cut away from each individual plant, minimizing the stress to the plant so it can continue to flourish. As you work, examine the plants carefully for any other signs of trouble, such as pests or diseases, so they can be taken care of right away.

When cutting away spent blooms, use the appropriate pruners or snippers to make clean, neat cuts for the least trauma to the plant. Small, clean pruners with sharp tips are a great choice, as they will more easily reach into the plant’s foliage for thorough deadheading. Keeping a small bucket or basket nearby to collect the cut blooms will make cleanup easy, and the trimmed flowers can be added to a compost pile or otherwise properly disposed of.

When cutting stems to remove wilted flowers, cut below the spent flower but above the first set of full, healthy leaves or approximately one-quarter inch above a new emerging bud. This will encourage new growth to keep the plant’s overall shape and fullness. Larger stems, such as mature rose bushes, should be cut at a 45-degree angle to minimize the risk of disease and damage to the plant.

Clean deadheading shears and pruners with rubbing alcohol, often, to minimize the risk of spreading disease, fungus, or pests between plants. Wearing gloves can protect your hands from thorns or sharp foliage, and a good garden hat is essential to protect yourself from the sun as you twist and turn to reach each wilted bloom.

After deadheading, water your plants carefully and use appropriate fertilizer regularly to nourish new growth as the plants produce even more blooms.

Deadheading is an easy garden chore, one that can be a tranquil time to tend your landscape or a great opportunity to involve children in essential tasks. By understanding how deadheading improves your plants and adds even more color to your landscape, you will happily take care of this task and enjoy the benefits it brings to every blooming plant.

Bridal Wreath Spirea: Here Comes the Bride

In spring, adorned with clusters of small, white flowers that cascade along its gently arching branches, Spirea prunifolia, commonly known as Bridal Wreath Spirea, bursts into bloom, creating a stunning display of floral finery unmatched by any other spring-flowering shrub. No other holds the timeless charm and delicate allure of the Bridal Wreath. This classic plant has adorned gardens for generations, gracing landscapes with its timeless beauty, and will continue to carry its legacy far into the future.

Reasons for Bridal Wreath’s enduring popularity:

Perfect for Floral Arrangements
Bridal Wreath’s abundant white blossoms make it a prized addition to floral arrangements, particularly for weddings and special occasions. The delicate clusters of flowers lend a romantic and ethereal touch to bouquets and centerpieces, complementing a variety of other blooms with its timeless elegance.
Old-Fashioned Plant with Modern Appeal
While Bridal Wreath may evoke nostalgia for bygone eras with its old-fashioned charm, it remains a beloved choice in contemporary landscapes. Its deciduous nature, vase-shaped habit, graceful arching branches and profusion of flowers bring a touch of classic beauty to gardens, whether as a standalone specimen, a focal point in mixed borders, or as a backdrop for other flowering shrubs.
Multiple Design Opportunities
In landscape design, Bridal Wreath offers versatility and aesthetic appeal. There are countless ways to incorporate this enchanting shrub into your outdoor space:
- Hedge and Border Planting:
  Plant Bridal Wreath in a row to create a stunning flowering hedge or border along pathways or property lines. Its cascading branches will form a picturesque backdrop for the rest of your garden.
- Mixed Garden Beds:
  Pair Bridal Wreath with other spring-flowering shrubs and perennials to create dynamic mixed garden beds. Combine it with plants like lilacs, azaleas, and tulips for a vibrant spring display.
- Focal Point:
  Some Bridal Wreath Spirea cultivars can reach an impressive 8 feet high. Plant a single specimen in a prominent location, such as the center of a circular garden bed or at the end of a pathway, to serve as a focal point and draw the eye with its graceful form and abundant blooms.
- Understory Tree Companion:
  Use Bridal Wreath as an understory plant beneath taller trees, where it will thrive in dappled sunlight and add a layer of interest and texture to the woodland garden.
- Container Planting:
  Grow Bridal Wreath in containers on patios or balconies for a burst of spring color and fragrance. Pair it with trailing vines or annual flowers for a whimsical and romantic display.
Pollinator Magnet
Bridal Wreath Spirea attracts all sorts of pollinators in abundance. All types of pollinating bees, from honey to mason, love Spirea. It attracts butterflies, hummingbirds, as well as many lesser-known, yet equally as important, pollinators.
Deer Resistant
Resistant to deer nibbling, Bridal Wreath Spirea is an excellent choice for landscapes that deer frequent.

Bridal Wreath Care

If you are considering adding Bridal Wreath Spirea to your landscape, it’s an easy decision as it is so very simple to plant, care for, and maintain. Please note that this plant is best suited for growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 8.

Site – Plant your spirea in a location that receives full sun to partial shade. These plants flower best in full sun.
Soil – Spirea prefers moist, fertile soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Before planting, incorporating organic matter like compost into the soil helps to improve drainage and soil nutrition.
Water – Be sure to water newly planted spirea regularly to help establish their root systems. Once established, they are relatively drought-tolerant but benefit from consistent moisture, especially during hot and dry periods.
Mulch – Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems to prevent rot.
Pruning – Pruning is essential for maintaining the shape and vigor of bridal wreath spirea. Prune immediately after flowering to avoid sacrificing next year’s flowers. Remove dead or damaged branches, as well as any overcrowded or awkwardly tall stems.
Fertilize – Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring before new growth emerges to provide nutrients for healthy foliage and abundant blooms. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application rates.
Ongoing Care – Keep an eye out for common pests such as aphids, spider mites, and scale insects. Treat infestations promptly with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Additionally, ensure good air circulation around the plant to reduce the risk of fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Top Bridal Wreath Spirea Varieties

‘Plena‘:
This double-flowered variety features densely packed clusters of white blooms, creating a fuller and more opulent appearance compared to the single-flowered species. This shrub can grow up to 9 feet tall.
‘Renaissance‘:
One of the standout qualities of ‘Renaissance’ is its compact growth habit. While still maintaining the elegant arching form characteristic of bridal wreath spirea, ‘Renaissance’ tends to be more restrained in size, about 5 feet tall, making it well-suited for smaller gardens or tight spaces.
‘Snowmound‘:
True to its name, ‘Snowmound’ produces cascades of pure white flowers that cover the branches in spring, resembling a blanket of snow. Its compact habit, 2 to 4 feet high, makes it ideal for smaller gardens and containers.
‘Bridal Veil‘:
A true classic with its long, arching branches adorned with single white blossoms, ‘Bridal Veil’ creates a stunning cascading effect that adds drama and elegance to any landscape. It ultimately grows to about 8 feet tall.

Consider planting Bridal Wreath this season. With its timeless beauty, versatility in the landscape, and enchanting floral displays, it continues to captivate gardeners and florists alike. Whether used as a focal point in the garden or as a cherished addition to floral arrangements, this classic shrub never fails to invoke nostalgia and awe. With proper planting and care, it will reward you year after year with its graceful form and abundant blooms, making it a must-have for any gardener seeking to cultivate beauty and romance in their outdoor space.

Bridal Wreath Spirea

Enhance Your Garden with A Hedge Border

As avid gardeners, we tend to focus on individual plants’ colorful blooms and lush foliage: that specimen tree, the rare perennial, or the colorful flowering shrub. However, there’s one often-overlooked garden feature that can significantly enhance the beauty, functionality, and biodiversity of your outdoor space: the hedge. Hedges are not just for grand estates or formal gardens; they can be a valuable addition to any size property, adding structure, privacy, and habitat for wildlife. Here’s why you should consider planting hedges in your home garden:

Definition and Structure

Hedges may be short or tall and provide a sense of definition and structure to your garden. They can delineate boundaries, create outdoor rooms, or frame specific areas within your garden. By defining spaces, hedges add visual interest and help organize the landscape, making your garden feel more cohesive and intentional.

Privacy and Screening

In an era where outdoor living spaces are becoming increasingly important, hedges offer natural privacy and screening from neighboring properties or busy streets. Unlike fences or walls, hedges soften the landscape and create a green barrier that not only provides privacy but also absorbs noise and reduces pollution. Whether enjoying a morning coffee on the patio or hosting a backyard barbecue, hedges can create a secluded retreat right in your own backyard.

Wildlife Habitat

Hedges act as valuable wildlife habitats, providing food, shelter, and nesting sites for birds, insects, and other small creatures. Native species such as hawthorn, holly, and viburnum are particularly beneficial, offering berries for birds and nectar for pollinators. By planting a diverse mix of native shrubs, you can attract a variety of wildlife to your garden, creating a thriving ecosystem right outside your door.

Seasonal Interest

Many hedge plants offer year-round interest, with evergreen species providing structure and color even in the depths of winter. Deciduous hedges, on the other hand, provide a changing tapestry of foliage, flowers, and berries throughout the seasons. The traditional, formal monoculture hedge still has a place in the landscape; however, a mixed hedge allows you to select a combination of plants with varying textures, colors, and bloom times. The mixed hedge can provide visual interest and beauty year-round.

Low Maintenance

Once established, carefully selected species are generally low-maintenance, requiring minimal pruning and care compared to many other garden plants. Regular trimming will help maintain the desired shape and density, but beyond that, most hedges are relatively self-sufficient.

Plant Selection

Creating a mixed hedge border is like composing a beautiful symphony of flowers, foliage, fruit, and such, with each plant playing its own unique role. We’ve provided some guidance on selecting and arranging plants for a harmonious mixed hedge border, incorporating short, medium, and tall plants to achieve a pleasant balance.

Before diving into plant selection, consider the purpose of your hedge. Are you looking for privacy, wind protection, or a garden structure, or are you simply looking to add aesthetic appeal? Knowing your purpose will help you choose the right plants for your hedge. It is best to first lay your design out on paper. This will ensure that you have enough room for your desired selections.

Also, while in the planning stages, consider factors such as sunlight and soil. Choose species well-suited to your climate and growing conditions, and aim for a mix of plants to maximize biodiversity and resilience. Consider incorporating fruiting and flowering species to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

Short Plants (Under 3 feet)

Plants shorter in stature will form the front row of the hedge border. They may also be used as a monoculture to provide a structural border for an otherwise unruly flower bed or to line a walkway.

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)
Lavender (Lavandula spp.)
Dwarf Korean Lilac (Syringa meyeri)
Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata)
Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox)
Dwarf Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’)
Blue Star Juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’)
Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’)
Rock Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis)
Dwarf English Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’)

Medium Plants (3 to 6 feet)

Medium-sized plants form the middle layer of the hedge, adding depth and texture. They provide a transition between the shorter and taller plants, and this is where many flowering species may be incorporated.

Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
Viburnum (Viburnum spp.)
Forsythia (Forsythia spp.)
Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius)
Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa)
Weigela (Weigela florida)
Dwarf Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compatus)
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
Dogwood (Cornus spp.)

Tall Plants (Over 6 feet)

Tall plants are positioned at the back of the hedge border, providing structure, height, and a backdrop for the garden.

Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
Privet (Ligustrum spp.)
Holly (Ilex spp.)
Elderberry (Sambucus spp.)
Summersweet Clethra (Clethra alnifolia)
Tall Fescue Grass (Festuca arundinacea)
Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea)
Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
Leyland Cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii)
American Holly (Ilex opaca)

Hedges are a versatile and valuable addition to the home landscape, offering beauty, function, and ecological benefits in equal measure. Whether you’re looking to create privacy, attract wildlife, or add structure to your landscape, planting a hedge is a worthwhile choice. So why wait? Get out there and start planning and planting your hedge today, and watch as your garden transforms into a vibrant and biodiverse oasis for both you and your local wildlife to enjoy.

Hedge Border
Enhance Garden
Enhanced Garden Hedge Border

Late Spring Gardener’s Calendar

Turn over your vegetable garden and add humus, mushroom compost or manure to enrich the soil. Apply Bonide Fruit Tree Spray as buds swell and again at petal drop to all fruit trees.

Fertilize perennials with Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Continue spring cleanup. Completely remove winter mulch. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds, then edge. Prepare your annual beds, and mulch landscape beds with shredded mulch, bark chips or gravel. Apply Preen or Corn Gluten and scratch it in to prevent future weeds, or try the new Preen Mulch Plus which combines mulch and Preen and prevents weeds for up to 6 months.

Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials (including hardy lilies and lily-of-the-valley).

Seed or sod new lawns. Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3” high.

Put down a second application of Team or Tupersan (newly seeded lawns) for pre-emergent goosegrass control and control of crabgrass the rest of the year.

Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm- and cool-season vegetable and herb seeds.

Dig and divide crowded spring bulbs after they have finished blooming. Enrich the soil with compost, manure or Espoma Bulb-Tone.

Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees and shrubs after the flowers fall.

Place gro-thru sets and link stakes over or around peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Check arborvitae, cedar, juniper spruce and pine for bagworms. Hand-pick bags from the host and spray with Ortho Systemic Insecticide.

Begin summer rose care program of deadheading, spraying and watering.

Fertilize roses with Bayer All In One Rose and Flower Care or Dr Earth Rose and Flower Fertilizer, azaleas with Espoma Holly-Tone or Dr Earth Azalea/Camelia Fertilizer, and fruit trees with Dr Earth Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer.

Deadhead bulbs, but leave foliage to mature and yellow before removing. This will help nourish the bulb for next year’s flowering. Fertilize with Dr Earth Bulb Fertilizer.

Prune new growth on needled evergreens.

Dig and divide early blooming perennials after flowering.

Apply Encap Fast Acting Iron Plus or Bonide Liquid Iron Plus to azaleas, hollies, junipers, laurel, pines, rhododendron and spruce to provide iron for chlorophyll production by foliage.

Fertilize container plants and window boxes weekly with a Master Nursery Bud and Bloom Plant Food, or use Dynamite All Purpose Plant Food for season-long feeding, to promote healthy, vigorous plants all summer.

Pay close attention to the watering needs of these plants as well as hanging baskets, because they tend to dry out quickly on hot summer days.

Check plants for spider mite damage and treat with Bayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control then alternate every 7-10 days with Bonide All-Season Oil Spray.

Perennial Power

Perennials may not be the best showstoppers in a garden full of annuals, but they make great foundation plantings to serve as a reliable backdrop or trusty fillers among other plants. There’s no reason you can’t select perennials that are just as beautiful as your favorite annuals, however, it’s just a matter of choosing the flowers that pack the most punch and using them appropriately.

Best Perennials to Choose

When choosing a perennial to fill an empty space in your garden, make sure to get the most bang from your buck by selecting one, or several, long-blooming perennials. These flowers will be worthwhile additions to your landscape for their ongoing staying power, giving you a reliable backdrop and structure to build from.

Achillea (Yarrow)
Alcea (Hollyhock)
Anemone (Wind Flower)
Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
Campanula (clips series)
Clematis ‘Jackmani’
Coreopsis (Tickseed)
Corydalis lutea (Yellow Bleeding Heart)
Delosperma (Ice Plant)
Dicentra exima (Bleeding Heart)
Doronicum
Echinacea (Coneflower)
Gallardia (Blanket Flower)
Gaura (Wand Flower)
Geranium ‘Johnson Blue’
Helenium (Helen’s Flower)
Heliopsis (Sunflower)
Hemerocallis ‘Stella D’Oro’ (Daylily)
Hemerocallis ‘Happy Returns’ (Daylily)
Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker)
Lavender
Liatris spicata (Gayfeather)
Ligularia (Ragwort)
Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower)
Lythrum (Loosestrife)
Malva (Mallow)
Monarda (Bee Balm)
Nepeta (Catnip or Catmint)
Oneothra ‘Siskiyou’ (Evening Primrose)
Perovskia (Russian Sage)
Rudbeckia (Coneflower)
Salvia (most verticillata)
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower)
Shasta Daisy ‘Becky’ or ‘Snow Queen’
Stokesia (Stoke’s Aster)
Veronica (Speedwell)

Using Your Blooming Perennials

To make your perennials truly pop, it’s important to position them in your landscape where they will show to their best advantage. Popular options include…

Filling in between showstopping annuals with perennials that will grow and bloom to cover fading blooms after the annuals are finished.
Adding blooming perennials in front of a hedge, fence or privacy screen for extra coverage with a dash of color.
Using perennial flowers as a backdrop for lower annual plantings along a house foundation or in other flowerbeds.
Creating a naturalized lawn or meadow-like area full of different perennials for a low-maintenance option that still stuns.
Planting perennials in hard-to-tend areas, such as alongside a water feature, in tight corners or on terraces so they can be gorgeous with less maintenance.

With so many options for lovely perennials that can be used in many different ways in the landscape, there’s no excuse not to enjoy these easy-care flowers for many years!

Perennials

Woolly Adelgid

Woolly Adelgid is an aphid-like insect that is a serious pest of the Eastern Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis, and its cultivars. Adelgids need to be controlled as this insect spreads easily and rapidly and, if left untreated, can kill a mature hemlock in 4-10 years.

Recognizing Adelgids

Adelgids, formally called Hemlock Woolly Adelgids (Adelges tsugae) or HWA, present as a fuzzy, cottony white substance on the underside of hemlock needles. This is actually a waxy filament produced by the tiny, 1/16-inch insect as a covering and protection for itself and its eggs. These insects are native to Asia, and damage trees by sucking on the sap. As damage occurs, the needles of the tree become grayish rather than robustly dark green. When infected, trees may lose their needles and will not produce new growth on the damaged branches. Because infected trees are significantly weakened, they are subject to many other infections from diseases and pests, and ultimately die.

Controlling Adelgids

Exercising good horticultural practices is the best way to prevent Hemlock Woolly Adelgid infestations. Site your hemlock appropriately, in proper sunlight and a location where it can grow well without being cramped or crowded. Water and feed as required for optimum health, including adding extra fertilization or nutrition as required. A healthy tree will always withstand disease and insect problems better that one that is already stressed.

When Adelgids are present, apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil in early April and again in June. Be certain to follow manufacturer instructions carefully and reach the underside of the needles where the Adelgids are located. When spraying in June, do so on a cooler, overcast day so as not to burn the Hemlock needles. If your Hemlock is too large to handle on your own, contact a trusted and licensed tree-care professional for treatment. Even after you have controlled an outbreak, annual spraying is recommended to be sure the pests do not reappear.

Other types of chemical treatments that can be used against these invasive pests include…

Foliage Sprays: These insecticides are sprayed over the entire tree to coat the foliage. They are stronger than soaps or oils and may be effective for 2-4 years. Higher toxicity can lead to other problems and contamination concerns, however, and applications should only be done by experienced professionals.
Soil Drenches: These are insecticides that are specially formulated to be absorbed by the tree’s roots and then will be consumed by the Adelgids as they sip on the tree’s sap. This can take longer to be effective, however, but it has long-lasting impact to control these insects. They should not be used where water sources may be inadvertently contaminated.

In some areas, predator beetles have been released to consume Adelgids, and while this is not yet effective on a widespread scale, there have been positive reports and limited success.

Hemlock Woolly Adelgids are a vicious, invasive pest, but with proper control techniques, their invasion can be stopped and the majestic hemlock forests renewed and restored.

Wooly Adelgid