Author Archives: Perennial Gardens, Inc.

Glorifying Garden Gloves

Many gardeners believe garden gloves are easy to do without. Those of us who love gardening enjoy the feel of soil running through our fingers, and we don’t mind the line of dirt under our fingernails. We prefer to not have anything impede the dexterity needed to sow small seeds or pinch a plant, and we like the textures of the plants we cultivate. We would rather spend our budgeted gardening dollars on the latest herbaceous sensation rather than unnecessary gloves, and, frankly, nobody likes sweaty hands.

Why Gloves Matter

Despite the prejudice against covering our hands, gloves are the single most important piece of garden clothing that a person should own. In addition to the fact that they come in every color and pattern under the sun, making them an attractive and matching accessory to your garden wardrobe, garden gloves provide many benefits, such as…

Improving your grip on tools, minimizing accidental drops that can damage expensive tools.
Keeping hands warm in cold weather so we can garden in comfort even in early spring or late fall.
Keeping hands dry in wet weather to prevent skin irritation and problems that could limit our gardening.
Preventing contact with animal waste that may carry bacteria, mites or other pests that could harbor diseases.
Helping avert calluses and blisters that can make even simple gardening tasks painful and unpleasant.
Protecting hands from cuts, splinters and thorn pricks from aggressive plants so we aren’t limited in our gardening choices.
Preventing contact with poisonous plant oils that cause rashes and allergic dermatitis.
Keeping nails clean and help prevent nail breakage so our hands can be as beautiful as our garden.
Protecting from soil borne fungal and bacterial infections that could be spread around the garden easily.

With so many great reasons to use garden gloves, which ones should you choose?

Selecting Gloves

Gardening gloves come in an almost limitless array of colors, styles and patterns. Features may include…

Different types of fabric or weave densities that affect air circulation to keep hands cool and comfortable
Anti-slip grips or rubber palms and fingers for excellent traction in all types of gardening conditions
Broad, wide cuffs for an easy fit or snug, form-fitting cuffs for a secure fit that won’t let in any dirt or debris
Different sizes and proportions to suit men, women and children

With so many gloves on the market there’s a style available for every garden chore, season, weather condition, hand size and preference. Check out our selection today. We are happy to help you choose a pair or two that work best for you and your gardening needs.

Fall Horticultural Oil Application

Autumn is an excellent time to apply horticultural oil. The oil smothers many soft-bodied insects and hard-shelled scales that are impenetrable to many insecticides, and can therefore help control some of the most stubborn insect populations. But is it right for your plants?

About Horticultural Oil

Horticultural oil, or hort oil, is typically derived from petroleum, and is a type of ecologically-friendly mineral oil. Some cottonseed and soybean oils can also be effective horticultural oils. Emulsifying agents are typically added to these oils so they can be mixed with water and used as a spray, which helps distribute them evenly over plant foliage to be most effective.

Pests That Don’t Like Horticultural Oils

Different types of horticultural oils can be effective against many unwanted garden pests, including…

Spider mites
Aphids
Whiteflies
Mealy bugs
Psyllids
Lace bugs
Caterpillars

In addition to smothering the larvae or insects directly, the heavy oil also makes it difficult for many insects to crawl therefore starving them to death and preventing them from spreading diseases from plant to plant. Additionally, the oil repels many insects looking for winter homes. The oils also act as fungicide against powdery mildew, rust and leaf spot on some plants.

Applying Horticultural Oils

Application of horticultural oils is easy, requiring only a simple hose-attached sprayer. Because oil and water do not mix, frequent agitation by shaking is required even if the oils are mixed with other agents to be more sprayable. These products are most effective if applied when plants are dormant, since oil-based products can burn and harm actively growing foliage, buds, flowers and fruit. Some lighter weight, summer-formulated oils are available, but they should be used only sparingly and only if absolutely necessary. Autumn and winter are the best seasons to apply horticultural oils when insects are a problem, though autumn applications can occasionally cause problems with plants dying back and other winter damage. Because the oils can evaporate and dissipate quickly, they should only be used when insects are present, otherwise they will be ineffective. In freezing weather the oil coverage will be inconsistent, so cool but not bitterly cold temperatures are best.

Of course, always follow the instructions for proper application rates, plant sensitivity and ideal weather conditions to ensure the most effective treatment. Because these oils are still pesticides, protective gear such as gloves and goggles should also be worn to avoid accidental irritation or more severe contamination.

Using hort oils can be a great way to control insects on your plants, but only if the oils are used appropriately. Come in for a consultation to see if these products can help end your insect problems.

FallHortOIl_1

Fall in Love with Fall Pansies

Ideal for fall gardens, pansies offer a colorful display for almost six months – in the fall when they are planted, in the winter during a stretch of sunny days and again in spring! Winter pansies may be planted anytime starting in mid-September and continuing through October. Multiple plantings spaced a week or two apart can also ensure even more blooms to enjoy throughout otherwise drab months.

Planting Pansies

As with any plant, pansies perform better if the soil that you place them in is well prepared. Choose a planting location that is well-drained and work in 4-6 inches of rich organic matter, such as garden compost, peat moss or Bumper Crop. Plant pansies at about the same level, or slightly higher, than they were growing in their market packs or containers, taking care not to plant too deep or the plants may wilt and rot and the roots could smother. After planting, mulch and water the bed thoroughly. Remember to check the plants often during the first three weeks after planting or until new growth begins, to ensure adequate moisture necessary for healthy growth. Because these plants require very little care, no other maintenance is usually necessary for them to reach their full potential.

Where to Plant Pansies

These versatile blooms can be used in many different parts of your garden or landscape. Add a graceful drift of single-colored pansies or a mass of mixed colors to brighten a border, under a tree or along a fence, pathway, deck or wall. Try tucking single plants in garden beds around perennials and shrubs that have finished blooming to brighten up an otherwise dreary section of the landscape and to help mask older, spent growth. Pansies also do well in containers placed on a deck or patio or next to the entrance of your home to greet your guests with welcoming color. Try pansies in a hanging basket and you can even move them indoors to enjoy when the weather is too poor for outdoor gardening. A small container of fall pansies can also be a great gift for winter holidays, birthdays or just to brighten the day of anyone who could use a touch of color in their life.

With so much color to enjoy in so many ways, fall and winter pansies should be a staple of any garden and will bring great gardening joy to the landscape even during colder, dreary months.

fall-pansies-2

fall-pansies-3

Growing Your Favorite Fall Greens

There are many delicious greens perfect for the fall garden, and it is easier to grow them than many gardeners realize. There are even ways to extend the autumn growing season to grow your favorite fall greens for extra weeks, giving you healthy, delicious produce to enjoy long after traditional harvests have ended.

Top Greens to Grow in Fall

A wide variety of greens are hardy in fall and can easily be grown in the garden as well as in containers or window boxes. Depending on your tastes and which greens you would use, try these top favorites.

Lettuce – Different varieties of lettuce, particularly leaf and butterhead types, grow well in fall. Plant lettuce 4-8 weeks before the first frost, in loose soil. For a prolonged harvest, stagger plantings every few days for different maturity dates.
Kale – A great option for beginning gardeners, kale grows well in loose soil and will taste even sweeter after its leaves have been touched by light fall frost. Plant kale 6-8 weeks before the first frost to allow it to reach its full potential.
Collards – A popular southern green through fall and winter, collards should be planted 6-8 weeks before the first frost. These greens have a hefty appetite and do best in rich soil. Like kale, the flavor of collards is improved after a touch of frost.
Mustard Greens – A fast growing option, mustard greens should be planted 3-6 weeks before the first frost. Staggering plantings will increase the harvest yield and ensure an ongoing supply of these peppery-tasting leaves.
Spinach – Healthy and hearty, spinach will grow best in loose soil and should be planted 4-8 weeks before frost is anticipated. Harvesting the outer leaves will encourage better growth and provide an ongoing supply of deliciousness for salads, soups, and stews.
Swiss Chard – This colorful green is best started indoors so it can begin to establish solidly before being transplanted outdoors. Start seeds 9-10 weeks before the first frost and transplant seedlings after a few weeks.
Cabbage – Rich and vigorous, cabbage should be started indoors 6-12 weeks before the first frost. The seedlings should then be transplanted outdoors when they are 3-4 weeks old, and they will rapidly take to the new space and produce a bumper crop.

Of course, if starting greens from seed is not your thing, we carry plenty of starter plants in market packs and flats for your convenience, half the work is already accomplished!

Proper Care for Fall Greens

Regardless of which greens you want to add to your fall garden, they all respond well to similar treatment and care. Before planting, clean out spent summer plants, including unpicked produce, weeds, and other debris, just as you would prep the garden area in the spring. You can position fall greens anywhere in the garden, but they will grow best in rich soil, which you can amend with compost or similar organic material for soil improvement. A light application of balanced fertilizer can help keep the plants well-fed as they grow.

Leafy greens will thrive in full or part-sun locations, though they can benefit from some light shade on hot afternoons in late summer. Planting fall greens in sturdy containers on movable carts or plant stands with casters can give you the option to move the plants around as sunlight levels change through the season. If possible, consider planting at the top of slopes or in raised beds, since cooler air will sink into lower landscaping spots as autumn advances. Taking advantage of the microclimates in your own garden space can dramatically impact your fall gardening efforts.

Keep fall greens well-watered, particularly in late summer or on hotter days that can quickly wilt even the hardiest greens. Adequate spacing of plants will promote good air circulation to minimize the potential for disease.

As the plants grow, you can quickly begin harvesting “baby” leaves even before the plants reach full maturity. Use sharp sheers or tear the leaves off by hand. Thinning out smaller leaves is another way to improve air circulation and keep the plant healthy for a more productive harvest.

Autumn is the exact season when different wildlife guests may be visiting the garden more frequently in search of easy foods. Planting garlic, sage, onions, thyme, lavender, or marigolds around and among your fall leafy greens can deter rabbits and deer protecting your late-season harvest.

Extending the Fall Growing Season

You can get even more from your favorite fall greens when you take steps to extend the growing season later into autumn. This is easily done with row covers, cold frames, or cloches, all of which will help sequester heat to keep the soil warm for more vigorous plant growth. As an added bonus, row covers can also help keep many pests, such as beetles and caterpillars as well as deer and rabbits, from ravaging your fall greens.

Summer isn’t the only season for salad, and if you follow these simple steps you can enjoy a delicious, nutritious harvest long past the warm days of summer. Extending your growing season further into fall by covering your greens is also easily accomplished. Stop by to shop our extensive selection of seed and starter plants. Our knowledgeable staff is waiting to serve you.

The Fall Vegetable Garden

Fresh vegetables don’t have to end as the days grow shorter – fall is a great time to plant an autumn garden to extend the growing season. Many vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower are of a higher quality when grown in the fall, while others, like kale, develop better flavor after a frost. Spinach, chard, kale, collards, mustard and rapeseed all grow rapidly and flourish at the end of the season, ideal for autumn gardening. Loose-leaf lettuces do well, too.

To prepare your bed, immediately pull out whatever plants have finished producing. Spade or till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches, rake the area lightly and work in a light application of composted manure or 5-10-5 fertilizer to provide adequate nutrition for rapid-growing fall veggies.

Broadcast a mixture of seeds like mustard, kale and rapeseed, or combine seeds of several types of lettuce like curly leaf, red leaf and oak leaf to allow you to harvest your salad already mixed. It works best to plant greens in blocks or wide rows, because they’re easier to harvest and you’ll have fewer weeds. If you plant blocks each time a new space opens up, you’ll have staggered plantings that can produce over a long time.

Some autumn vegetable varieties will tolerate cold better than others. Read seed packets before you purchase them to determine what will be best in your area, but don’t be put off by such notations as chard’s taking 60 days to mature. The greens are good when they’re younger, too.

Water seeds after sowing and keep the ground evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing. Seedlings may also need to be sheltered from extreme heat. Protect them by shading them from the sun with Reemay fabric until they are established.

Although insects tend to be less bothersome in late fall, some vegetables in the cabbage family, including mustard, kale and collards, may attract cabbageworms. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) sprays for an organic method of control. As the plants begin to fill out, thin them enough to allow air to circulate and dry off moisture. This helps prevent insect problems too.

Harvest your fall vegetables as soon as the plants reach edible size. Even after the first frosts, you’ll be able to keep harvesting to enjoy the yield of your extended-season garden.

Top Fall Vegetables

Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Swiss Chard
Collards
Kale
Lettuce, Head
Lettuce, Leaf
Mustard
Rape
Spinach

Fall Gardener’s Calendar

SEPTEMBER

Spray Bonide All-Season Spray on hemlocks to control woolly adelgid.

Spruce up the landscape by planting Fall Pansies, Flowering Cabbage & Kale, Garden Mums, Fall-Blooming Perennials as well as Trees and Shrubs.

Test your lawn pH to determine if you need to apply lime this season. A 5o lb. bag of Lime will raise the pH about a half a point per 1000 square feet of turf.

Pick up your Spring Flowering Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths, snowdrops and more! An Auger for the drill will also help make planting easier.

Plant cool-season salad greens (arugula, corn salad, lettuce, radishes and spinach) in cold frames.

Apply Superphosphate now to coax stubborn plants into bloom next year.

Aerate, re-seed and apply Fall Lawn Food to the lawn. Keep grass seed damp; water every day if necessary. You will also want to check for grubs. Increased activities of skunks, raccoons and moles as well as brown patches that peel back easily are an indication of grub activity. Apply granular Sevin to control the grubs as well as chinch bugs and sod webworm.

Treat houseplants with Systemic Granules and Concern Insect Killing Soap now to get rid of any insects before bringing them into the house prior to the first frost.

Clean out garden ponds and pools. Cover with Pond Netting before the leaves start falling.

OCTOBER

Plant bulbs. Fertilize with Espoma Bulb-Tone and water in well.

Divide daylilies and spring-blooming perennials, including iris and peonies. Don’t be tempted to prune your spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, azaleas, camellia, holly, lilac, rhododendron, spirea or viburnum or you will destroy next year’s buds.

Rake leaves from the lawn and lower the mower blade. Check your compost pile. Now is a good time to add Concern Bio Activator to help break down brown leaves and lawn clippings.

Dig up summer-flowering bulbs, such as dahlias, cannas, tuberous begonias, caladiums and gladiolus after the frost kills the top growth. Treat them with Bulb Dust, pack them in Peat Moss, and store them in a ventilated area for winter.

Fertilize your trees with Jobes Tree Spikes after the leaves fall. Fertilize azaleas, rhododendron, and evergreens with Holly-Tone and other shrubs with Plant-Tone. Spray hemlock again with Bonide All-Season Spray Oil.

Set up bird feeders. Clean out birdbaths, refill and purchase heaters for the winter.

Clean up and destroy diseased rose leaves and debris surrounding shrubs and perennials. Mound 10-12 inches of dirt around roses to protect from winter damage. After the ground freezes, cover roses with mulch or straw.

Remove annuals, roots and all, and add to your compost pile, but do not add any diseased material to it.

Cut back perennials unless they feature ornamental seed heads and Fertilize with 5-10-5. Prune long raspberry and rose canes back to a height of three feet. Clean up your beds and gardens to avoid harboring insects and diseases over the winter.

Pot hardy spring bulbs (anemone, crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, ranunculus and tulip) and place in a cold frame or cool garage (40 degrees) or sink into the ground and mulch. Keep evenly moist.

Update garden records, noting successes and failures, gaps in planting, future planting and landscape changes.

Water all landscape plants well and mulch before the winter cold sets in.

Spray evergreens, azaleas, rhododendron, boxwood and rose canes with Wilt Pruf for protection against wind and cold weather.

Creating a Low-Maintenance Landscape

Looking for a landscape design that delivers curb appeal without demanding your weekends? It might be time to discover the benefits of decorative stone! Stone, rock, and gravel offer practical, polished solutions that minimize upkeep, maximize style, and provide significant long-term savings. If you’re eager to take yard maintenance off your to-do list without sacrificing an attractive outdoor space, you’re in the right place! YOUR GARDEN CENTER is here to guide you through everything you need to know about creating a stunning, low-maintenance landscape with rock.

Why Choose Rock?

Decorative rock landscapes go far beyond simple aesthetics. When you invest in a rock-based design, you’re choosing function, longevity, and a welcome break from repetitive yard work. Here are some core reasons why more property owners are switching to rock:

Long-Lasting Impact

Unlike wood mulch, which decomposes and demands frequent replenishing, decorative stone persists for five years, a decade, or even longer. Rock holds its color, resists breakdown, and keeps your yard looking consistent year after year. This translates into more time and money saved on outdoor upkeep.

Excellent Weed Suppression

When properly installed over quality landscape fabric, decorative rock forms a powerful physical barrier that blocks most weeds from emerging. This simple step reduces your need for herbicides and slashes your time spent on hands-and-knees weeding.

Minimal Watering

While organic mulch can help retain moisture, it often requires maintenance and doesn’t reduce the need for watering as much as you might think. Rock needs no watering at all. When paired with drought-tolerant plants, such as succulents, or xeriscaping, a rock landscape becomes a water-efficient solution offering both immediate and long-term environmental benefits.

No Decomposition or Pest Risk

Mulch is organic, which means it breaks down over time and can invite termites, ants, and pests. Rock, on the other hand, never decomposes, attracts fewer pests, and stays put even during heavy storms or wind. This results in a cleaner, more predictable landscape.

Fire Resistant & Durable

Decorative stone adds a layer of fire resistance to your property, which is especially critical in wildfire-prone regions. Rocks don’t burn, and they serve as a natural buffer near outbuildings, fences, or homes.

Where to Use Rock?

At YOUR GARDEN CENTER, we often hear customers ask, “Where exactly should I use decorative rock?” The answer is almost anywhere! Rock is one of the most versatile materials in landscaping, offering beauty and durability in every corner of your outdoor space.

Long-Term Garden Beds

Start by replacing mulch in your permanent garden beds. Decorative stone stays in place longer, resists fading, and won’t break down like wood chips, making it a significant upgrade around shrubs, trees, and perennials.

Patios, Paths, & Seating Areas

Rock is also ideal around patios, along walkways, and under outdoor seating or play areas where grass struggles to grow. It provides a smart, low-maintenance solution that maintains high curb appeal. It also performs beautifully in high-traffic zones, such as front entrances, signage beds, or along driveways, especially where you want a tidy, professional look without constant upkeep.

Types of Landscape Rock

With such variety in shape, color, and texture, landscape rock is more than just functional—it’s a stunning design element. Some popular options include:

River Rock: Smooth, rounded stones available in multiple colors and sizes. Perfect for naturalistic designs, dry creek beds, and defining garden borders.
Crushed Limestone: Clean and tightly compacting, making it ideal for driveways, walkways, and fire pit zones.
Pea Gravel: Small pebbles that provide comfort underfoot. Excellent for patios, playgrounds, or paths.
Slate Chips: Angular and modern, often used for high-contrast, contemporary beds and commercial plantings.
Decomposed Granite: A firm, drainage-friendly surface that packs tightly for paths, patios, or even outdoor seating areas.
Lava Rock: Lightweight, porous, and bold in color. Offers excellent drainage and a distinctive aesthetic for specific applications.

Selecting the right rock can enhance both function and visual appeal, so consider the colors and textures that harmonize with your home’s exterior or business brand.

Maintenance Tips

A landscape built with stone offers impressive reductions in maintenance, but a little effort goes a long way toward keeping it pristine. Consider these proven tips:

Install High Quality Landscape Fabric: Always start with a professional-grade fabric beneath the stone. This keeps weeds at bay, allows rainwater through, and prevents rocks from mixing with the soil below.
Refresh the Surface Layer Occasionally: Over time, tracks and settling may cause heavily trafficked areas to thin out. Adding a fresh top layer every few years will restore uniformity and color vibrancy.
Use Proper Edging for Containment: Edge beds with steel, concrete, or stone borders to prevent rock migration into lawns or other planting areas.
Keep Debris Under Control: Use a blower or light rake to clear leaves and organic matter in fall and spring.
Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: For added security against weeds, treat beds with pre-emergent product once or twice a year, or as needed.
Rinse Rocks: If dust or mud builds up, rinse with a garden hose or use a pressure washer on the lowest setting to restore their natural look as needed.

How to Select the Right Materials

How does decorative stone compare with organic mulch or a turf-heavy yard? Here’s a breakdown:

Material	Maintenance Level	Best Applications	Longevity
Rock	Very Low	Permanent Beds	5 – 10+ years
Mulch	Moderate	Flower Beds Annual Gardens	1 – 2 years
Turf	High	Play Areas Lawns Dog Runs	Ongoing

If your goals include lasting impact, hassle-free ownership, or improved property value, rock is typically the standout choice.

Stunning Results with Minimal Effort

A well-designed rock landscape offers lasting beauty with minimal work. The right mix of stones can add dynamic texture, highlight architectural features, and give your property a cohesive, professional appearance. By making smart choices up front, you can achieve eye-catching curb appeal and enjoy true low-maintenance living for years to come.

Your Garden Center provides an extensive range of landscape stone, from classic river rock to dramatic granite chips. Our staff is ready to help you calculate quantities, select complementary rock types, and even assist you with installation. Whether you’re revamping a single bed or tackling a multi-acre project, we’re here to help every step of the way.

The Power of Mulching for Gardens and Yards

Imagine stepping into a lush, healthy garden where every plant is thriving, the soil feels rich and cool to the touch, and weeds are nowhere to be seen. What’s the secret behind this picture-perfect scene? Often, you’ll find a thick, tidy layer of mulch at the heart of a flourishing landscape. At first, mulch may seem like just a finishing touch. Many gardeners, especially beginners, view it as a cosmetic choice that makes flower beds pop. But dig a little deeper (literally and figuratively), and you’ll discover that mulching is one of the most versatile, powerful tools available for anyone who loves their yard. From saving water to feeding the earth, mulching goes well beyond surface-level beauty.

Why Mulch Matters More Than You Think

Mulching does far more than clean up the edges of garden beds. It acts as a multitasking shield for your soil and plants, offering an impressive array of benefits that any homeowner or gardener can appreciate:

Moisture Retention: Cuts down on watering by keeping precious moisture locked in.
Weed Suppression: Reduces the time and energy you’ll spend pulling pesky weeds.
Temperature Regulation: Shields roots from summer heat and winter cold snaps.
Nutrient Boost: Organic mulch breaks down to feed your soil naturally.
Erosion Control: Keeps valuable topsoil from washing away during heavy rain.
Enhanced Visual Appeal: Ties your garden together for a crisp, cohesive look.
Pest Mitigation: Some mulches even help deter certain insect pests and diseases.
Biodiversity Support: Mulch provides habitat for beneficial insects and microbes.

Moisture Retention: Keep Water Where Your Plants Need It

Water is a lifeline for every garden, but it can be elusive during droughts or hot summers. Mulch provides a powerful barrier against evaporation, allowing water to penetrate the soil while preventing it from escaping as easily. A properly mulched bed needs less frequent watering, which protects roots and saves you time, money, and resources.

Tip: Lay mulch after rain or watering to trap existing moisture.
Bonus: Less surface water also means fewer muddy shoes and splashes on house siding.

Weed Suppression: Enjoy More Beauty with Less Work

Few things frustrate gardeners like relentless weeds. Mulch directly addresses this pain point by blocking sunlight from weed seeds, reducing both the number and strength of unwanted plants. While it won’t prevent every single weed, a 2-4 inch layer can cut the workload by more than half.

Tip: Before adding fresh mulch, pull existing weeds and smooth the soil to set a weed-resistant foundation.
Pro Insight: Try double-mulching (using a layer of newspaper or biodegradable weed barrier beneath organic mulch) for especially stubborn areas.

Temperature Regulation: Create a Year-Round Comfort Zone

Wild temperature swings stress even the hardiest plants. Mulch is like a cozy blanket, insulating the ground so roots don’t freeze in winter or bake in summer. This stability is key for perennials and young plants with delicate root systems. You’ll notice more robust and resilient growth, with fewer casualties, following harsh seasons.

Tip: Apply mulch in early spring and fall to buffer your plants during seasonal transitions.
Real-World Example: At our garden center, we have found that even city gardens with unpredictable microclimates benefit from this protective touch.

Soil Improvement: Feed Your Soil and Fuel Your Garden

Organic mulches are the solution for those looking to nurture the earth as much as their flowers and vegetables. Over time, materials such as shredded bark, straw, compost, or leaves break down, replenishing your soil with valuable nutrients and organic matter. This natural process improves drainage, aeration, and soil structure, leading to healthier roots and more vibrant results.

Did you know? Healthy soil attracts beneficial worms and microbes that turbocharge decomposition and plant growth.

Erosion Control: Keep Your Garden Intact

Heavy rains can wash away precious topsoil. Mulch reduces the impact of water runoff and shields bare soil, preventing erosion on slopes, hillsides, and in new plantings. If your yard is on an incline or prone to heavy storms, don’t skip this step!

Smart Move: Start mulching bare patches early, even before planting, to stabilize the ground.

Visual Impact: Show Off Your Style

Let’s admit it, a mulched garden just looks incredible. Whether you’re into rustic bark, bold colors, or sleek river stones, mulch sets the tone for your entire landscape. Choose a hue and material that complements your home and plant palette for instant curb appeal.

Types of Mulch- What’s Right for Your Garden

Choosing the ideal mulch depends on many factors, including your plant choices, local climate, soil needs, and personal style. Here’s a deep-dive into common and creative options:

Hardwood Mulch: The All-Purpose Favorite

Made From: Shredded bark or wood (often oak or maple).
Ideal For: Perennials, trees, shrubs, and general landscaping.
Pros: Durable, slow to decompose, great value. Creates a polished, even surface.
Tip: Double or triple-ground hardwood is less likely to blow or wash away.

Pine Mulch: A Match for Acid-Loving Plants

Made From: Pine bark chunks or needles.
Best Use: Around azaleas, blueberries, rhododendrons, or anywhere you want a looser texture.
Pros: Lightweight, simple to spread; adds acidity as it breaks down.
Watch Out: May float during rain and doesn’t suppress weeds as firmly if not applied thick enough.

Cedar Mulch: Aromatic and Long-Lasting

Standout Features: Pleasant smell, naturally deters pests, and resists rot thanks to its oils.
Perfect For: High-traffic spots, patios, or beds near decks and seating areas.
Benefits: Holds color and structure longer than most organic mulches. Adds a unique scent to outdoor spaces.
Downside: Slower breakdown means less immediate soil improvement and higher upfront cost.

Dyed Mulch Adds Drama and Definition

Options: Bold reds, deep blacks, or chocolate browns.
Why Choose It: Color stays vibrant longer, perfect for making beds pop or defining pathways.
Quality Tip: Only purchase from trusted suppliers who use safe, vegetable-based dyes. Verify that the wood source is not from treated pallets or waste.
Note: Color will fade over time, but mulch can be refreshed annually.

Natural & Living Mulch: Go Green and Get Creative

Natural Mulch: Undyed wood chips, compost, straw, or shredded leaves. Earthy look, improves soil fast.
Living Mulch: Low groundcovers like clover or creeping thyme. Suppresses weeds and provides habitat for pollinators.
When to Use: Vegetable gardens, wildlife-friendly landscapes, or anywhere you want rapid soil enrichment.

Rubber Mulch & Stone Mulch: Long-Lasting, Low Maintenance

Rubber Mulch: Made from recycled tires, great for playgrounds, dog runs, or non-plant areas. Won’t decompose or blow away.
Cautions: No soil benefits, may get hot in direct sun, should not be used near edible gardens or delicate plants.
Stone or Gravel Mulch: Ideal for arid gardens, around cacti or succulents, or in permanent xeriscape installations. Prevents weed growth and delivers a striking visual contrast.

Specialty Mulches: Uncommon Solutions

Cocoa Hulls: Smells like chocolate, breaks down fast, improves soil, but can be toxic to dogs.
Straw/Grass Clippings: Superb for veggie beds, boosts fertility fast, but must be free of weed seeds and pesticides.

Tips for the Best Results

Start with weed-free, slightly damp soil for optimal application.
Spread mulch evenly, 2-4 inches deep, and keep it clear of plant stems or trunks to prevent rot.
Replenish mulch as needed, typically once per year; organic mulch will naturally settle and decompose.
For sloped areas, try heavier mulches or use edging to keep material in place.
Pay special attention to moisture and airflow in humid climates to prevent fungal growth.

Mulch with Purpose and Confidence

Mulching isn’t just a finishing touch; it’s a strategy that pays dividends all season. When you select the right mulch and apply it with care, you save water, reduce weeds, build healthier soil, and instantly improve your garden’s appearance. Whether you’re refreshing your backyard beds or designing a front-yard oasis, mulching adds resilience, style, and sustainability to every corner.

Need help choosing the perfect mulch for your yard? Stop by Perennial Gardens for friendly expert advice, the widest selection of top-quality mulches, and all the tools you need to mulch like a pro. Your future garden is waiting, and it’s guaranteed to look (and grow) better with the right mulch.

mulching benefits for gardens

Power of Mulching

Summer Blooming Trees

When choosing flowering trees for the landscape, we often tend to make our selections from the long list of ostentatious spring blooming trees that are all so common and familiar in every yard. At the same time, we tend to overlook the more reserved, yet exceptionally elegant, summer blooming trees that can add so much drama and beauty to every space. Check out this selection and consider one or two to round out the seasons when considering your next landscape addition.

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
Delicate crepe paper like flowers flourish in mid- to late summer in an assortment of colors like pink, fuchsia, coral, lavender, violet and red.

Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus)
This small, multi-stemmed, native tree features fragrant, showy, fringe-like white flowers in early summer just as many spring bloomers are fading.

Golden Rain Tree (Koelreuteria paniculata)
This medium tree is a showstopper with small, yellow flowers borne in large, upright panicles in July, just in time for summer parties.

Japanese Pagoda Tree (Sophora japonica)
A medium-large tree with creamy-white, slightly fragrant flowers borne in hanging drapes 6-12” long, this beauty offers late summer elegance from August through early September.

Japanese Stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia)
Pure white, camellia-like flowers with orange anthers bloom solitary in succession from June to August, giving plenty of drama and beauty through the season.

Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulate)
This small tree offers fragrant, off-white, tiny flowers borne in showy, large, terminal panicles in early summer.

Korean Dogwood (Cornus kousa)
Dramatic flowers with four large, showy, white bracts that age to a delicate pink sit atop tree foliage for up to six weeks in early summer.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
Fragrant, lily-of-the-valley-like flowers drip from branch tips in summer with excellent scarlet fall color, making this tree both a summer and autumn favorite.

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
Flowers, borne singly, have large, 6-8 inches wide, pure white petals. These trees bloom sporadically through the summer months.

Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana)
Fragrant, showy, white flowers appear throughout the summer, similar to but smaller than those of the Southern Magnolia.

Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea)
A native tree with fragrant, white flowers borne in summer on pendulous, wisteria-like panicles. This tree often flowers on alternate years but is stunning when it does.

Any of these beauties can be a dramatic and welcome addition to summer landscaping, reaching their peak just at the time when spring blooms are fading and autumn flowers and foliage are weeks away from brilliance.

summer blooming flowering trees

Watering When Away

It’s vacation time! You’re going to be gone for two weeks or more, your friends, neighbors and family members are all busy and the weatherman says it’s going to be “hot, hot, hot.” What about your houseplants?

Fear not! A few minutes of thoughtful planning and a quick trip to the garden center will ensure meeting your plants’ watering requirements even when you can’t be home for daily moisture checks. Popular and effective solutions include…

Pre-Watering: Before you leave on your trip, make sure your plants are well-watered. Many houseplants can withstand some watering neglect, and if you aren’t gone too long, they may not need any supplemental solutions if you’ve watered them right before your trip. Take care not to overwater, however, or you could be compounding the problem.

Self-Watering Containers: Planting your houseplants in self-watering pots is truly looking ahead. A reservoir holds water under the pot, and this water gradually travels to the soil via a wick, always keeping the soil moist so long as the reservoir contains water. If you want to use a specific pot without a built-in reservoir, use a conversion kit. Various sizes are available and some use fill tubes. Consider adding liquid fertilizer to the reservoir water to ensure your plant gets proper nutrition while you are away.

Individual Pot Drippers: These generally hold water above the plant. Various sizes and styles provide water to small and large pots. From beautiful blown glass globes to simple plastic bottles, these allow water to drip down into the soil through a drip-tip inserted in the soil. One style even looks like a flask attached to the side of the pot with a tube dripping water to the soil. Because they show above the plant, many people only use them during their vacation.

Automatic Watering Systems: These are more elaborate but very effective options. A large water reservoir feeds to clustered houseplants through small tubing attached to drippers inserted in the soil. Larger pots use two or more drippers. These systems pump water on a regular basis using a battery and timer, making them ideal for regular watering when you may be taking a longer trip. These also allow liquid fertilizer in the reservoir so your plants are properly nourished.

Additional Vacation Watering Tips:

Don’t worry about your succulents, they’ll be fine while you’re away. Be sure, however, to give them a little water when saying ‘goodbye’.
Group all your houseplants together on a tray of pebbles filled with water. The close grouping, along with the wet pebbles, will increase humidity and keep your plants cooler and moister while you are away.
Place houseplants that generally require frequent watering in a bathtub with a couple of inches of water. Place a towel under the pots to avoid scratching your tub.
Mulch the soil of large potted plants to help them retain moisture while you’re away.

Go ahead and enjoy your trip…your plants should be fine!

watering houseplants while away

Buddleia: Our Beloved Butterfly Bush or Not?

Buddleia, commonly known as the butterfly bush, is a flowering shrub that has won the hearts of many a gardener and pollinator lover for a very long time. Buddleia davidii, the most commonly grown species of butterfly bush, is renowned for its vibrant summer blooms, ease of care, and ability to attract butterflies. While butterfly bush is beloved for these reasons, B. davidii has a dirty little secret: it is invasive! Its ability to self-seed prolifically allows it to spread rapidly, sometimes outcompeting native vegetation. To mitigate this, gardeners are encouraged to plant sterile cultivars that do not produce viable seeds.

The Lo & Behold® and Miss Series of Sterile Butterfly Bushes

Overview of Sterile Series

The Lo & Behold® and Miss Series are notable for offering sterile varieties of Buddleia davidii, addressing concerns about the invasive nature of the species. These two series provide gardeners with beautiful, non-invasive options that maintain the ornamental and pollinator-attracting qualities of traditional butterfly bushes.

Lo & Behold Series
The Lo & Behold series offers a range of dwarf butterfly bushes that are sterile, meaning they don’t produce seeds and thus won’t spread invasively. Despite their sterility, they are still highly attractive to pollinators, especially butterflies and bees, and bloom continuously throughout the summer months.

Varieties:

Lo & Behold ‘Blue Chip’
- Color:Blue-purple
- Size:5-2.5 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Blue Chip Jr.’
- Color:Lavender blue
- Size:5-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Ice Chip’
- Color:White
- Size:1-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Lilac Chip’
- Color:Lavender-pink
- Size:5-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Pink Micro Chip’
- Color:Pink
- Size:1-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Purple Haze’
- Color:Deep purple
- Size:2-3 feet tall and wide

Miss Series

The Miss series also features sterile butterfly bushes in a more standard size. It offers a larger shrub with beautiful blooms that attract a range of pollinators, including butterflies, bees, and even hummingbirds.

Varieties:

Miss Molly
- Color:Rich magenta
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide
Miss Pearl
- Color:Pure white
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide
Miss Ruby
- Color:Vivid ruby red
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide

Attractiveness to Pollinators

Both series are designed to maintain the key feature that makes Buddleia davidii so popular: their appeal to pollinators. The dense clusters of flowers are particularly attractive to butterflies, which are drawn to the nectar. Bees also frequently visit these plants, making them a great addition to a pollinator-friendly garden. Hummingbirds have been known to visit the larger varieties in the Miss series, especially those with bright, vibrant colors like Miss Molly and Miss Ruby.

Perennial Gardens continues to provide you with up-to-date plant information as well as an incredible selection of plants to satisfy the most eco-conscious gardener.

sterile butterfly bush varieties

Selecting the Right Plant for the Right Place

More often than not, our landscape renovation wish lists include the desire for a picturesque, thriving, low-maintenance outdoor space to enjoy year-round for many years to come. Creating a flourishing landscape, however, isn’t simply about picking pretty plants. It’s about understanding your garden’s own unique environmental conditions and matching plant selection to them. This concept, known as “right plant, right place,” is a foundational principle in horticulture that ensures healthier plants, reduced maintenance, more sustainable gardening practices, and, therefore, greater garden longevity and homeowner happiness!

Why Choosing the Right Plant Matters

Healthier Plants:When plants are placed in environments suited to their needs, they grow healthier and stronger and are better able to resist pests and diseases.
Reduced Maintenance:Plants that thrive in their location require less intervention from the gardener. This translates to less work and more time to enjoy your garden.
Resource Efficiency:Using plants adapted to your local conditions means less water and fewer resources are needed, promoting sustainable gardening.
Enhanced Aesthetics:A well-planned and planted landscape will not only perform well but also look lush and beautiful. Planting in the correct environment enables landscape plants to grow to their full potential in size and bloom capacity.
Environmental Benefits:Native plants and those well-suited to the conditions in which they are planted support biodiversity, attract pollinators, and contribute to a balanced ecosystem.

How to Select the Right Plant for the Right Place

Assess Sunlight Exposure

Determine how much sunlight each part of your garden receives throughout the day and match plant selections to these conditions.

Full Sun– Direct sunlight for at least 6 to 8 hours daily. It is ideal for sun-loving plants like vegetables, roses, and most flowering perennials.
Partial Sun– 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, usually in the morning or afternoon. Plants labeled as “partial sun” prefer more light rather than less.
Partial Shade– 4 to 6 hours of sunlight, but these plants benefit from protection from the intense afternoon sun. It is best for plants that thrive in morning light and dappled conditions.
Dappled (Mottled) Shade– Sunlight filters through tree branches or structures, creating a shifting pattern of light and shade throughout the day. Common in woodland gardens.
Light Shade– Indirect sunlight for most of the day, with occasional brief periods of direct sun. It is found in areas near open structures or under high tree canopies.
Full Shade– Less than 4 hours of direct sun, typically in the early morning or late afternoon, with the rest of the day in indirect or reflected light.
Deep Shade (Dense Shade)– Little to no direct sunlight, often due to dense tree cover, walls, or structures blocking light.

Understand Soil Conditions

The Mid-Atlantic region has a diverse range of soil. Here are the primary soil types found in this:

Clay Soil– Heavy and dense clay soil holds water well but can become compacted, making drainage a challenge. It tends to be nutrient-rich but often needs amendments like compost or sand to improve structure and aeration.
Sandy Soil– Light and well-draining, sandy soil warms up quickly in spring but dries out just as fast. It’s great for plants that need good drainage but often requires organic matter like compost or peat moss to help retain moisture and nutrients.
Silty Soil – Smooth and slippery when wet, silty soil holds moisture better than sandy soil and contains more nutrients. It’s great for gardening but can become compacted over time, so adding organic matter helps maintain its structure.
Loamy Soil– The ideal garden soil! Loam is a balanced mix of clay, sand, and silt, providing good drainage, moisture retention, and nutrients. This type of soil supports a wide variety of plants and is found in many well-maintained gardens.
Rocky or Stony Soil– This type of soil can make digging a challenge. It drains well but often lacks organic matter, so adding compost and topsoil helps improve its texture and fertility.
Peaty Soil– Dark, rich, and high in organic matter, peaty soil is found in wetland areas. It holds a lot of moisture, which can be beneficial, but may need drainage improvements for most garden plants.
Chalky Soil– Found in some limestone-heavy areas, chalky soil tends to be alkaline and drains well. It can limit the growth of acid-loving plants.

Soil pH Level

Soil pH is crucial when selecting garden plants because it affects nutrient availability and plant health. Some plants thrive in acidic soil, while others prefer neutral or alkaline conditions. If the pH is too high or too low, essential nutrients may become unavailable, leading to poor plant growth. Testing your soil pH is vital to growing healthy plants.

Here’s a breakdown of soil pH levels:

Acidic Soil
Range: 4.5-6.5
Acidic soils are often found in regions with high rainfall, as rain can leach out calcium and other alkaline minerals. These soils can be rich in organic matter but may lack nutrients like calcium and magnesium.
Neutral Soil
Range: 6.5-7.5
Neutral soil is ideal for most garden plants, as nutrients remain readily available. Many vegetable gardens and ornamental plants thrive in neutral soil.
Alkaline Soil
Range: 7.5-8.5
Alkaline soils, found in areas with low rainfall or limestone-rich soil, can lead to nutrient deficiencies, especially iron, which causes leaves to turn yellow (chlorosis).

Consider Climate and Hardiness Zones

Use the USDA Hardiness Zone map to determine which plants are suitable for your region’s temperature range. Choose plants that can withstand your area’s seasonal extremes, whether it’s harsh winters or scorching summers.

Evaluate Moisture Levels

Some plants thrive in consistently moist environments, while others prefer dry, drought-like conditions. Specifically consider:

Boggy or Wet Areas
Drought-Prone Areas

Size and Growth Habits

Understand the mature size and growth habits of plants to avoid overcrowding and maintenance issues. Plant trees and shrubs where they have room to grow without interfering with structures or other plants.

Examples of Right Plant, Right Place

Eastern US HARDINESS ZONES 5 – 9

Sunny, Dry Spots:
- Plants:Lavender, Sedum, Yarrow, Russian Sage
- Why:These plants thrive in full sun and well-drained soils.
Shady, Moist Areas:
- Plants:Hostas, Astilbe, Ferns, Japanese Forest Grass
- Why:These plants love the cool, damp environment provided by shade.
Acidic Soils:
- Plants:Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Blueberries, Camellias
- Why:These species prefer lower pH levels and will flourish in acidic conditions.
Clay Soils:
- Plants:Daylilies, Black-Eyed Susans, Switchgrass
- Why:These plants tolerate heavy, compacted soils and can handle less-than-ideal drainage.
Wetlands or Water Features:
- Plants:Cattails, Iris, Cardinal Flower, Marsh Marigold
- Why:These moisture-loving plants thrive in saturated conditions.

Landscape design and renovation are both an art and a science. Understanding your garden’s specific conditions will help in choosing plants well-suited to the existing environment. If you need assistance selecting plants for your situation, Perennial Gardens is at your service. Our plant knowledge and selection are outstanding. We can help you match the right plant to the right place, enabling you to significantly reduce maintenance, conserve resources, and promote a healthier, more vibrant landscape that can be enjoyed year-round.

Right Plant, Right Place

The Heat is On: Heat Stress and The Veggie Garden

Heat stress in plants occurs when temperatures exceed the optimal range for their growth and functional processes. This typically happens during oppressive hot spells when temperatures soar above what the plant can comfortably endure. While different plants have different temperature thresholds, heat stress is generally observed when temperatures reach 90°F or higher for extended periods.

How Heat Stress Affects Vegetable Plants

Heat stress will adversely affect vegetable plants in a number of ways, impacting their overall health, growth, and productivity. Here are the primary adverse effects:

Wilting and Water Loss
Plants lose water through transpiration, where water evaporates from the leaves. High temperatures increase the transpiration rate, causing plants to lose water faster than they can absorb it from the soil. As a result, plants often exhibit wilting, where leaves droop and stems become limp. This is a defensive mechanism to reduce surface area and conserve water.
Leaf Scorching and Sunburn
Prolonged exposure to intense sunlight and high temperatures can cause leaf tissues to burn. This is often seen as browning or scorching at the edges or tips of the leaves. Fruits and vegetables, especially those exposed to direct sunlight, can suffer from sunburn, leading to discolored and damaged produce.
Blossom Drop and Reduced Yield
Heat stress can cause flowers to drop prematurely before they have a chance to develop into fruit. This is a common issue in crops like tomatoes, peppers, and beans. High temperatures can hinder fruit set and development, leading to smaller yields and sometimes deformed fruits.
Reduced Photosynthesis
Extreme heat can inhibit photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy. When temperatures are too high, the enzymes involved in photosynthesis become less efficient, reducing the plant’s ability to produce energy. With reduced energy production, plant growth is stunted. Vegetables may grow slower, remain smaller, and produce fewer leaves, flowers, and fruits.
Nutrient Deficiency
Heat stress can affect a plant’s ability to absorb nutrients from the soil. High temperatures can alter the soil chemistry and reduce the availability of essential nutrients, leading to deficiencies. Nutrient deficiencies often manifest as yellowing leaves, poor growth, and reduced overall vigor.
Increased Susceptibility to Pests and Diseases
Stressed plants emit signals that can attract pests. Additionally, weakened plants are less able to defend themselves against pest attacks. Heat stress can compromise a plant’s immune system, making it more susceptible to diseases. Fungal and bacterial infections can take hold more easily in stressed plants.
Root Damage
High ambient temperatures can increase soil temperatures, which can damage root systems. Roots are crucial for water and nutrient uptake, and damaged roots can lead to a further decline in plant health.
Stress Hormones
Under heat stress, plants produce stress hormones such as abscisic acid. These hormones trigger responses aimed at conserving water and energy but can also slow down growth and reproductive processes.

Managing Heat Stress

Now that we know how heat stress can severely impact the health and productivity of vegetable plants, utilizing the proper prevention and mitigation strategies can help gardeners protect their crops from the adverse effects of high temperatures.

Soil Management
Help prevent anticipated heat stress by adding organic matter to improve the soil before planting. Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to improve its structure, fertility, and water-holding capacity. Healthy soil rich in organic matter can retain moisture better and provide a steady supply of nutrients to plants.Regularly test your soil to ensure it has the necessary nutrients and proper pH level for optimal plant growth. Add soil amendments based on test results to address any deficiencies and maintain a balanced nutrient profile.
Planting Tips and Techniques
Select vegetable varieties that are more resistant to heat stress. Plant vegetables with adequate spacing to ensure good air circulation. This reduces humidity around plants and lowers the risk of fungal diseases. Proper spacing also allows roots to spread out and access more soil moisture and nutrients.Plant crops early in the season so they can mature before the hottest part of the year. This is especially useful for cool-season vegetables. Plant in succession to ensure that not all plants are at the same stage of growth during peak heat periods. This helps spread the risk and enables a continuous harvest.
Watering
Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth. This helps plants access moisture from deeper in the soil during dry periods. Water in the early morning when temperatures are cooler. This reduces water loss through evaporation and ensures plants have moisture available before the day’s heat arrives. Use a soil moisture meter to regularly check the moisture levels in the soil. This helps ensure that plants are receiving adequate water. Adjust your watering schedule based on soil moisture readings and weather conditions.Best watering practices during times of intense heat include using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone. This minimizes water waste and ensures plants receive consistent moisture. Also, keeping foliage dry helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases, which can thrive in warm, wet conditions.
Mulching
Apply a thick layer of organic mulch (straw, wood chips, grass clippings) around plants. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduce soil temperature, and suppress weeds. As organic mulch breaks down, it adds nutrients to the soil, improving soil structure and fertility.Try using reflective mulch (such as aluminum-coated or white plastic) to reduce soil temperatures by reflecting sunlight away from the soil. Reflective mulch can be particularly beneficial for heat-sensitive crops like lettuce and spinach.
Shading
Use shade cloth with varying densities (30%, 50%, or 70%) to provide the right amount of shade for different plants. Install shade cloth over hoops or frames to create temporary structures that protect plants from intense sunlight. You may also take advantage of natural shade by using taller, heat-loving plants to provide natural shade for smaller, more delicate plants.
Windbreaks
Plant hedges or use fences to protect your garden from hot, drying winds. Windbreaks can help reduce the rate of transpiration and moisture loss. Creating a sheltered microclimate can help maintain more stable temperatures around your plants.
Pest and Disease Management
Regularly inspect plants for signs of pest activity and disease. Heat-stressed plants are more vulnerable, so early detection and treatment are crucial. Use organic control measures as needed to manage pests and diseases effectively. Remove any dead or damaged leaves to reduce stress on the plant and improve airflow to help prevent disease. Pruning can also help redirect the plant’s energy towards healthy growth and fruit production.

Preventing and mitigating heat stress in vegetable plants requires a combination of thoughtful planning, effective gardening practices, and continuous monitoring. By implementing these strategies, you can create a resilient garden capable of thriving even during periods of high temperatures. Regular attention and adaptation to changing conditions will help ensure your plants remain healthy, productive, and less susceptible to the adverse effects of heat stress.

Deer-Resistant Annuals

Gardeners in deer-prone areas face the frustration of watching their carefully cultivated flowers become an all-you-can-eat buffet. Fortunately, many annual plants are naturally deer-resistant, offering beauty without becoming a snack.

Let’s dig in!

Deer-Resistant vs. Deer-Proof Plants

To manage expectations and make the best plant selections for your garden, it’s important to understand the difference between “deer-resistant” and “deer-proof” plants.

Deer-Resistant Plants: Deer typically avoid these due to their pungent scents, unappealing textures, or toxicity. However, “deer-resistant” does not mean “deer-proof.” During difficult times, hungry deer may still nibble on these plants out of desperation.
Deer-Proof Plants: Deer will not eat, regardless of conditions. Unfortunately, there are no annual plants that can be considered genuinely deer-proof. The adaptable and opportunistic nature of deer means no annual plant is entirely safe from hungry deer.

Conditions that make protection necessary are:

Seasonal Deer Life Stages: Deer feed most heavily in the spring and summer. This is because their seasonal life stages require extra calories, such as pregnant and nursing does and young bucks growing antlers.
Seasonal Scarcity:During late winter or early spring, when natural forage is limited, deer are more likely to eat plants they would typically avoid.
High Deer Populations:In areas with overpopulation, competition for food drives deer to consume less preferred plants.
Drought:When water and vegetation are scarce, deer may browse any available greenery.
New Plantings:Recently planted annuals, or those with tender new growth, attract deer, even if the mature plant is less appealing.
Young Deer:Fawns often explore a variety of plants as they learn what is edible and what is not.

Deer-Resistant Annuals

Annuals are some of the easiest plants to grow. They provide color from spring to frost in most areas of the US and potentially year-round in the warmest parts of the country. This is great news for gardeners who love growing this diversified group yet live in deer-prone areas. There is a long list of deer-resistant annuals, most of which prefer full sun, with a smaller selection of shade-loving ones.

Full Sun

Ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum): Soft, fluffy flowers in shades of blue, white, and pink.
Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia): Upright spikes of snapdragon-like blooms in various colors.
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): Golden-yellow petals with dark centers.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Cheerful daisy-like flowers in shades of orange and yellow.
Canna Lilies (Canna spp.): Bold foliage and tropical flowers in red, orange, yellow, or pink.
Cleome (Cleome hassleriana): Spider-like flowers in pink, white, or purple with spiny stems.
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.): Delicate, daisy-like flowers in shades of pink, red, bright yellow, orange, and white.
Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria): Silvery, fuzzy foliage that adds texture.
Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana alata): Fragrant, tubular blooms in shades of white, pink, and red.
Gazania (Gazania rigens): Daisy-like flowers in vivid shades of yellow, orange, and red.
Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa): Round, clover-like blooms in purple, pink, orange, red, and white.
Lantana (Lantana camara): Clusters of small, brightly colored flowers that attract pollinators.
Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena): Unique, airy flowers in blue, white, or pink surrounded by lacy foliage.
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.): Bright yellow, orange, and red blooms with a strong scent.
Salvia (Salvia spp.): Upright flower spikes in shades of red, purple, and blue.
Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus): Tall spikes of flowers in a range of colors.
Verbena (Verbena spp.): Clusters of small, brightly colored flowers in purple, pink, and red.
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.): Vibrant, daisy-like flowers in almost every color.

Partial Shade to Shade

Begonia (Begonia spp.): Waxy leaves and blooms in red, pink, white, or yellow.
Caladium (Caladium spp.): Large, colorful foliage in shades of green, pink, and white.
Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyerianus): Striking, metallic purple foliage.
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima): Low-growing plants with fragrant clusters of tiny white, purple, or pink flowers.
Wishbone Flower (Torenia fournieri): Small trumpet-shaped flowers in purple, blue, and white.

Protecting Annual Plants

All annuals, even deer-resistant ones, even though they are not the favorite fodder of foraging deer, will require protection. This protection can come in the form of repellent techniques and products as well as planting strategies.

In the Garden

Use Repellents:
Spray plants with commercial or homemade repellents. Reapply after rain or heavy watering.
Install Barriers:
Use deer netting or fencing around vulnerable beds. Position taller, deer-resistant plants around the edges of your garden or yard to create a natural barrier.
Apply Predator Urine:
Urine from deer predators like coyotes and wolves will mimic a threat to deer.
Incorporate Mixed Plantings:
Interplant highly aromatic, deer-resistant plants with more susceptible ones to confuse deer.
Employ Scare Techniques:
Consider adding motion detector lights and sprinklers to frighten off deer. A loud dog will work as well.

In Containers:

Choose Elevated Locations:
Place containers on porches, decks, or patios, which are less accessible to deer.
Use Deer-Resistant Companion Plants:
Combine vulnerable plants with deer-resistant varieties in the same container.
Protect with Covers:
Drape lightweight netting to shield container plants during peak browsing times.
Move Containers as Needed:
If deer pressure worsens, move pots to a secure area, such as a garage or screened porch. Plant coasters make this method easier.

Deer-resistant annual plants can help you enjoy a vibrant, low-maintenance garden even in high-pressure areas. By understanding the limitations of deer resistance, combining strategic plant selection with protective measures, and recognizing the conditions that influence deer browsing, you can create a landscape that balances beauty and resilience. Whether planting in garden beds or containers, the right choices and tactics will keep your flowers flourishing and your frustration at bay.

Deer Resistant Annuals

Combining Mulch & Stone in Your Landscape

Landscaping is more than just planting flowers and laying down fresh grass; it’s about creating a space that feels tailored to your home and lifestyle. That’s why savvy homeowners are increasingly incorporating the artful blend of mulch and decorative stone into their outdoor designs. The right balance of these two materials can transform a bland backyard into a dynamic oasis, one defined by contrast, texture, efficiency, and lasting curb appeal. But why does combining mulch and stone work so well? And what are the expert strategies that set a standout landscape apart? Whether you’re redesigning your front yard, building a back patio, or refreshing an established property, we will help you maximize every inch of your outdoor space.

The Ultimate Combination

Mulch and stone complement each other beautifully when applied with intention. They allow for a landscape that’s as functional as it is visually captivating, letting you highlight focal points while providing practical solutions for plant health and maintenance.

Why Blend Mulch & Stone?

Understanding the unique benefits of each material enables you to create a balanced approach tailored to your specific needs.

Advantages of Mulch:

Enriches the soil naturally as it breaks down, feeding plants over time
Retains moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering
Improves soil structure, aeration, and temperature regulation
Shields plant roots from extreme temperatures
Suppresses weeds naturally in garden beds and vegetable plots

Perks of Stone:

Provides long-lasting ground cover with minimal maintenance
Suppresses weeds effectively when used with landscape fabric
Resists decomposition, fading, and pest attraction
Withstands heavy rainfall and frequent foot traffic
Supports drainage and suits fire-prone areas and pathways

The Inspiration Zone

The key to a seamless landscape is not just mixing mulch and stone, but knowing where and how to use each for impact and practicality. Here are a few design ideas from our professionals to inspire your project:

Tree Rings & Island Beds

Surround tree trunks with a ring of decorative stone for unbeatable weed control and durability. Extend a band of mulch beyond the stone to nurture shade-loving plants, such as hostas or azaleas. This approach keeps moisture in the soil where it’s needed, discourages weeds, and protects the trunk from damage caused by mowers and trimmers.

Flower Beds with Defined Borders

Fill planting beds with a rich layer of mulch to support root health and moisture retention. Outline the beds with decorative stone or natural rock to create an elegant, maintenance-friendly frame. The stone acts as a barrier, keeping mulch where it belongs and reducing soil erosion after heavy rainfalls.

Entryways, Walkways, & Patio Edges

Use stone as the base for walkways and patios, providing durability and a tidy, compact surface. Add mulched beds or planters along the sides, overflowing with colorful perennials, ornamental grasses, or evergreen shrubs. This approach softens hardscape edges and welcomes guests with natural beauty right at your doorstep.

Fire Pit & Outdoor Entertaining Zones

Construct fire pit areas with non-flammable materials such as gravel, crushed limestone, or river rock. These choices create a safe gathering spot and resist flying sparks. Border the space with lush mulched plantings to introduce color, privacy, and seasonal interest.

Dealing with Slopes

Sloped landscapes are challenging for mulch, which can wash away in heavy downpours. Place stone on steep gradients, dry creek beds, or along drainage channels where erosion is a concern. On flatter sections, use mulch to enhance plant health and soil quality. This segmentation ensures that each area receives the material best suited to its needs.

The Expert Touch

Achieving a professional, long-lasting result requires attention to detail and a thoughtful approach. Here are some pro tips for attaining your desired effects:

Invest in Quality Edging
The boundary between mulch and stone should be crisp and well-defined. Install metal, composite, or stone edging that rises at least 2 – 4″ above the ground to prevent materials from spilling or migrating into each other. Curved edging is ideal for organic flow, while steel or paver edging suits modern, geometric designs. Proper edging saves you hours of cleanup each season.
Keep Mulch Away from Drainage
Avoid placing mulch directly in stone-lined drainage trenches, French drains, or dry creek beds. Organic mulch can be swept away or clog these areas, impacting your drainage effectiveness. Always use stone downstream or in high-flow areas, and keep mulch reserved for planting zones.
Choose Complementary Colors & Textures
Highlight your landscape’s best assets by pairing distinct yet harmonious colors. For bold contrast, try jet-black mulch with pale white or tan stones. For a warmer palette, combine brown mulches with red lava rock or multi-toned river stones. Gray slate or limestone pairs beautifully with natural cedar mulch.
Plan for Maintenance & Longevity
Place stones in areas with heavy traffic, persistent weeds, or high exposure, but use mulch in garden beds or around delicate root systems for easy annual top-ups.
Remove Old Material Before Switching
If you plan to switch from one material to another in any area, clear away the old before applying the new. Decomposing mulch under a layer of stone can cause the base to shift, leading to an uneven surface and persistent weed growth. A clean start ensures stability and prevents headaches down the road.

The Material Matchup

We offer a wide variety of mulches, including hardwood, cedar, pine, and dyed blends, as well as a range of stones. Each type brings its own benefits:

Hardwood Mulch: Ideal for most flower and shrub beds thanks to its slow decomposition and dark, rich color.
Cedar Mulch: Great for vegetable gardens and around play areas, as its natural oils help repel insects.
Pea Gravel & Crushed Granite: Excellent for walkways and as a base for pavers, offering solid footing and an attractive texture.
River Rock: Works well for drainage swales, dry creek beds, or as a feature in modern garden designs.

Customizing which mulch or stone you use by area enhances the beauty and utility of your property, ensuring each zone gets the functionality it deserves. For large spaces or special soil conditions, consider mixing different types for visual interest and peak performance.

The Transformation Effect

Combining mulch and decorative stone isn’t just about good looks. It’s a forward-thinking landscaping technique that allows you to:

Conserve water and save on irrigation
Suppress weeds naturally
Encourage healthy soil for robust plants and lawns
Cut down on chemical use
Reduce long-term landscape maintenance
Create dramatic visual contrast and texture for all-season appeal
Increase your home’s value and marketability

With thoughtful planning and the right supplies, your landscape can achieve the perfect balance of beauty, function, and ease of care. Discover how the innovative use of mulch and stone transforms not just your yard, but the way you enjoy your home.

Ready to create a landscape that thrives year-round and draws compliments from every corner of the neighborhood? Visit Perennial Gardens today for a complete selection of mulch, decorative stone, edging supplies, and all the advice you need.

mulch and stone landscaping

Combining Mulch and Stone