Author Archives: Perennial Gardens, Inc.

A Guide to Home-Grown Blackberries

Transform your garden into a sanctuary of sweetness with home-grown blackberries. Picture plucking ripe, juicy berries straight from the vine, indulging in their unmatched flavor while reaping their nutritional benefits. With minimal maintenance, these resilient plants provide a convenient, sustainable source of delicious fruit, fostering a deeper connection with nature and promoting a healthy lifestyle through gardening and proper nutrition.

Blackberry Dictionary

Some terms used in blackberry cultivation are not immediately understood by the home gardener. Our blackberry dictionary is meant to help you better understand these words to support your blackberry selection and cultivation efforts.

Cane: Refers to the long, woody stems that emerge from the crown of a blackberry plant. Canes can be either primocanes or floricanes, depending on their age and stage of growth.

Floricane: Refers to the second-year canes or shoots of a blackberry plant that have already borne fruit. Floricanes typically produce flowers and fruit in the current growing season.

Hardiness: A plant’s ability to withstand cold temperatures.

Primocane: Refers to the first-year canes or shoots that emerge from the crown of a blackberry plant. Primocanes typically do not produce fruit in their first year but develop fruiting laterals that bear fruit in the subsequent year.

Suckers: Adventitious shoots that emerge from the base of a blackberry plant, often arising from the roots or crown. Suckers can contribute to the spread of blackberry plants but may need to be managed to prevent overcrowding.

Thornless: This term describes blackberry varieties that lack thorns or have greatly reduced thorniness, making them easier to handle and harvest compared to thorny varieties.

Tipping: Tipping is pruning or removing the terminal portion of primocanes to encourage lateral branching and increase fruiting potential. It can help improve fruit yield and quality in some blackberry varieties.

Trellis: A support structure consisting of posts, wires, or other materials used to support and train blackberry canes for better growth, airflow, and ease of harvest.

These terms are commonly used in blackberry cultivation and can help growers better understand the practices and techniques involved in successfully growing blackberries.

Choosing the Right Varieties

With adequate care, blackberries can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 10. However, some varieties are more suited to colder or warmer climates within this range.

Varieties for Warmer End of the Range (Zone 8-10)

Prime-Ark Freedom: This variety is known for its early fruiting on first-year canes. It produces large, sweet berries and has good disease resistance.

Prime-Ark: This variety, like Prime-Ark Freedom, is a primocane-fruiting blackberry bred to produce fruit on first-year canes.

Osage: Osage is a thornless blackberry that produces high yields of large, flavorful berries and is highly resistant to diseases.

Kiowa: Kiowa is a thorny blackberry variety known for its excellent flavor. While it can tolerate a range of climates, it tends to perform well in warmer regions.

Natchez: Another primocane-fruiting variety, Natchez is known for its high yields and excellent flavor.

Varieties for Colder End of the Range (Zone 5-7)

Arapaho: Arapaho is a thornless, early-ripening blackberry variety that can handle colder temperatures well. It’s known for its excellent fruit quality.

Chester: Chester is a late-ripening blackberry variety. It produces large, sweet fruit and is known for its vigorous growth.

Triple Crown: Triple Crown produces large, flavorful berries and is resistant to many diseases.

Navaho: Navaho is a thornless blackberry variety bred to produce large, sweet berries and is known for its winter hardiness.

Darrow: Darrow is a classic blackberry variety. It produces medium to large fruit with a rich flavor and is well-suited for fresh eating or processing.

Hull Thornless: Hull Thornless produces large, sweet berries. It’s known for its vigorous growth and adaptability to a range of soil types.

Planting and Care Tips

Now that you’re familiar with blackberry terms and recommended varieties for your climate, it’s time to get planting! Follow these tips for successful growth and abundant harvests:

Site Selection
Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil for planting blackberries. Avoid low-lying areas prone to frost or poor drainage, as these can hinder plant growth.

Soil Preparation
Before planting, amend the soil with organic matter such as compost or aged manure to improve drainage and fertility. For optimal blackberry growth, aim for a slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Planting Technique
Space blackberry plants 3-4 feet apart in rows, ensuring adequate airflow and room for growth. Plant them at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers, and water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

Pruning and Training
Blackberries require regular pruning to remove old canes and promote new growth. In late winter or early spring, prune out any dead or diseased canes, as well as any weak or overcrowded growth. Train the remaining canes onto a trellis or support system to encourage upright growth and easier harvesting.

Watering and Fertilizing
Keep blackberry plants consistently moist, especially during hot summer months. Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring before new growth emerges, top-dress with compost, and add a layer of mulch to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.

Harvesting and Enjoying
Blackberry plants typically begin bearing fruit in their second year and reach peak production by their third year. Harvest ripe berries when they easily detach from the stem with a gentle tug, usually from mid to late summer. Enjoy your freshly picked blackberries straight from the vine, or incorporate them into delicious recipes such as jams, pies, or smoothies.

Try adding blackberries to your fruiting favorites list this year. Not only are blackberries considered a superfood, loaded with vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants, but they are also easy and enjoyable to grow.

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Beat the Bolt: Keeping Lettuce Lush and Leafy

In the busy, beautiful, and bountiful universe of vegetable gardening, there’s a particular plant that always holds a special place in our hearts: lettuce. No wonder we love lettuce; it is early planted, quick and easy to grow, available in almost unlimited varieties, tasty, and loaded with numerous nutritional benefits. Absolutely! We love growing lettuce! Yet, we often find ourselves locked in a battle against a frustrating foe: bolting.

What is Bolting?

Bolting refers to the process where a plant, such as lettuce, prematurely produces a flowering stalk. In the case of lettuce, this means the plant shifts its energy from leaf production to seed production, resulting in bitter-tasting leaves and a decline in overall quality.

Why Does Lettuce Bolt?

Several factors can trigger bolting in lettuce:

Temperature: Lettuce prefers cool temperatures, typically between 60-70°F. When exposed to prolonged periods of high temperatures, especially above 80°F, lettuce may bolt as a survival mechanism to produce seeds before the heat stress becomes too severe.
Day Length: Lettuce is sensitive to changes in day length. Certain varieties are more prone to bolting as the days lengthen in the late spring or summer, especially if they are exposed to extended periods of daylight.
Stress: Any form of stress, such as drought, overcrowding, or nutrient deficiencies, can trigger lettuce to bolt as it tries to ensure its survival by producing seeds.

How to Avoid Lettuce Bolting

You’ve done the hard work of planting and nurturing your lettuce patch. We’ve put together some strategies to help avoid bolting for as long as possible.

Plant at the Right Time: Plant lettuce early in the season when temperatures are cooler and days are shorter. This helps minimize the risk of bolting.
Provide Adequate Shade: If you’re growing lettuce in warmer climates or during the summer months, provide some shade to protect the plants from intense sunlight and heat.
Maintain Consistent Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist to prevent stress from drought, but be careful not to overwater, as soggy soil can also stress the plants.
Harvest Promptly: Harvest lettuce regularly to encourage new leaf growth and prevent the plants from diverting energy into flowering. Harvesting outer leaves rather than whole heads can also prolong the plant’s lifespan.
Succession Plant: Instead of planting all your lettuce at once, stagger plantings every few weeks to ensure a continuous harvest and reduce the likelihood of all plants bolting simultaneously.
Choose the Right Varieties: Opt for lettuce varieties less prone to bolting, such as “bolt-resistant” or “slow-bolt” varieties. These are specifically bred to withstand higher temperatures and longer daylight hours.

Slow-Bolt and Bolt-Resistant Lettuce Varieties

Batavian Lettuce: Also known as French crisp or summer crisp lettuce, Batavian varieties like ‘Muir,’ ‘Nevada’ and ‘Ice Queen’ all offer a balance between the crisp texture of iceberg lettuce and the flavor of leaf lettuces while being slow to bolt.

Iceberg Lettuce: Some folks must have iceberg lettuce, and although it is not necessarily known for its heat tolerance and bolting resistance, ‘Ithaca’ and ‘Summertime’ both fit the bill as slow-bolters.

Romaine (Cos) Lettuce: In addition to ‘Jericho’ and ‘Parris Island,’ other slow-bolting romaine lettuce varieties include ‘Green Towers’ and ‘Cimmaron.’

Summer Crisp Lettuce: Varieties like ‘Summertime’ and ‘Fusion’ are specifically bred for their ability to resist bolting in hot weather while still offering a crisp texture and mild flavor.

Butterhead (Bibb) Lettuce: Varieties such as ‘Buttercrunch’ and ‘Summer Bibb’ are slow bolting alternatives to traditional Bibb lettuces, offering a sweet, buttery flavor and crisp texture in both red and green varieties.

Baby Leaf Lettuce: Depending on the source, these come in a variety of mixed types. However, they are harvested when young, think miniature gourmet greens, thus avoiding bolting.

Oakleaf Lettuce: Oakleaf lettuces are known for their delicate, lobed leaves and mild flavor. Varieties like ‘Salad Bowl’ and ‘Royal Oakleaf’ are slow to bolt, making them excellent choices for summer salads.

Red Leaf Lettuce: While red leaf lettuces can bolt more quickly than green varieties, some slow bolting options include ‘Shirane Sky’ and ‘Ruby Sky,’ which retain their color and flavor in hot weather.

Green Leaf Lettuce: Excellent bolt-resistant green leaf lettuce includes ‘Grazion’ with its dark-green wavy leaves and ‘Starfighter’ with its great flavor and shiny green leaves.

Perennial Gardens offers an outstanding collection of slow-bolt and bolt-resistant lettuces in seed packets and plugs so you can harvest and enjoy lush, leafy lettuce all summer long.

Succulent Container Garden

Have you noticed how a container garden can really jazz up a front entryway, back deck or porch? Perhaps you’ve thought twice about including this addition to your plantscaping because you just don’t have time every day to water.

Cheer up! You can plant a container with succulents (plants with fleshy, or thickened, leaves, stems or roots) and you will not have to worry about watering frequently. Succulent container gardens are relatively carefree. They’re so easy that you don’t have to limit yourself to just one. Remember, if one container makes a statement, several will create a conversation!

Let’s begin…….

Exposure
Full sun is a must for all succulents! If your viewing location has less than adequate sun, place your succulent garden in a full sun area for the majority of the day and move to your desired location when you have company or time to enjoy it yourself. Remember to move it back out into the sun when company leaves.

Containers
Because succulents do not have extensive root systems, your chosen containers may be shallow. Too much soil can hold excessive water causing the succulent’s roots to rot. Perhaps a strawberry pot would make the perfect focal point at your front door, although many front doors look great with a single shallow round planter sitting on the stoop. If you have several steps to the door, try a pot on each step. How do you want your front entrance to say “hello?”

Think about varying the heights of your containers. Perhaps your containers will require a pedestal or something else for elevation. This could be an inverted pot, a table, shelf or even pot feet. You may even consider hanging your container. Whatever you choose, it’s important to remember succulents require excellent drainage. Therefore, the containers must have holes.

Soil
All succulents need fast draining soil. We carry pre-mixed soil used specifically for succulent container plantings. You may also use a general all-purpose potting mix and add additional perlite and/or sand.

Plants
When making your plant selection, let your imagination go wild.

Use a thriller, a filler, and a spiller…and you’ll never go wrong

Succulents come in an extensive variety of colors, striking shapes, and varying sizes. As when planting any container, or creating a bouquet, evaluate plant color, texture and shape when making your selections. You may feel overwhelmed when choosing your plants. If you can’t decide, here is a simple “recipe” for planting one 16″ container to be seen from all sides. Maybe it will give you some ideas:

1-thriller (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire‘) planted in the middle.
3-fillers (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) to surround the thriller and provide texture or color contrast
5-spillers (Sempervivum arachnoideum) to drape over the container’s edge.

As an extra bonus, many succulents bloom, adding extra beauty.

Topdress
After planting, gently brush off any soil from the leaves. Add more interest by “topdressing.” This layer of material will give your container garden a finished appearance. Desert type plants look great with a thin layer of light tan-colored gravel. Create sparkle with sea-glass toppings or add a clean contemporary look to Zen-like or Asian inspired plantings with smooth black river stones. Stop by and look for other materials to add bling to your container garden.

Have fun!

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Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses can reduce your watering costs, lessen your mowing time and increase the interest level of your garden. No matter what your garden’s needs, there’s a grass to solve it. From short ground covers to tall bamboo, there’s something for every site.

About Ornamental Grasses

Generally defined as “a plant with narrow upright leaves growing from the base,” ornamental grasses come in different sizes, shapes, colors and with differing growing requirements. While they may be cut to the ground each year, they are not mowed regularly, and work well as borders, specimen plants or part of coordinated beds. When choosing an ornamental grass for your site, consider the following:

Size
Some beautiful grasses are just inches tall. Others, such as bamboo, grow to 20 feet or even taller. A shorter grass is a perfect edge for a walkway or to border a flowerbed, while a taller grass provides screening or background height.

Deciduous or Evergreen
The winter form of a grass can be very different from its summer form. Evergreen grasses do not die back in the winter, their form remains the same. Winter colors may change and provide interest. Deciduous grasses die back or lean over. Consider the plant’s use when choosing between deciduous and evergreen. If using a grass as a screen, deciduous may not be a good idea.

Running or Clumping
Clumping grasses stay where they planted, and as they grow, the overall plant width increases. However, a running grass sends runners through the ground to grow another grass plant. Sometimes this can be up to 6 feet away. This is advantageous when using the grass as a groundcover or trying to fill in a larger area. Clumping grasses can be divided if they become too large for the site.

Color
Ornamental grasses are available in many colors, including variegated shades with contrasting edges. Additionally, many grass colors change throughout the year. Blues, reds, greens, yellow and variegated shades work well in different situations. A gold or white-hued grass can brighten a dark corner, whereas a dark green grass may be a perfect backdrop for smaller colorful plants.

Growing Requirements
Sun, water, wind and soil requirements vary among grasses. Some require full sun; others grow best in the shade. Some grasses are ideal in rain gardens or wet soils, while others thrive best in drought conditions. Some don’t mind a breezy location, while others need to be more protected. Some prefer a rich, organic soil, while others will look great even in poor soils. And, of course, there are grasses for every range in between.

Before going to the garden center to purchase an ornamental grass, make a list of your requirements. You may want a short grass to line a walkway in full sun with sandy soil. Alternatively, you may need a grass to fill a dry and shady corner. Perhaps you would like to watch a grass clump emerge in the spring, grow to 6′ tall, change colors through the summer and harvest dry seed heads for an autumn arrangement. Choosing the correct grass ensures the beauty of your garden for years to come.

Let Me Out! Moving Houseplants Outside for the Season

Are your house plants looking a little peaked after a long winter of being cooped-up inside? Getting out for some fresh air during the warm months is healthy for all living things, including your potted plants. It is important to move plants safely and thoughtfully, however, or else you risk shock and damage that can destroy your carefully cultivated houseplants. With the right steps, you can move your houseplants to outdoor accommodations for the spring and summer while still protecting them from unfavorable conditions, pests and wildlife.

Tips for Moving Houseplants Outdoors

When you are ready to move your houseplants outside…

Wait until there is no longer any danger of freezing or frost before setting houseplants outside.
Before you place plants outdoors, acclimate them to the spring temperatures. Set them outside for short periods of time and bring them inside at night.
Over a period of two weeks, lengthen the plants’ outdoor exposure time gradually. Continue to bring plants inside at night if temperatures are not consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Do not place plants directly in the sun or else the leaves may burn.
Set plants on pot feet or a suitable plant stand to prevent sow bugs.
Arrange plants in groups for increased humidity, being careful to promote good air circulation within the foliage.
Check soil often for moisture levels, as warmer days and breezes may dry pots out more quickly.
Empty saucers of excess water to prevent root rot and minimize standing water that will attract biting insects.
While away on vacation, use a self-regulating plant watering system.
Mulch the surface of the soil to retain moisture and keep weed seeds from invading the soil.
Keep squirrels from digging in pots by placing a layer of crushed oyster shells or chicken wire on top of the soil.
Use a slow-release fertilizer to save you time and energy on frequent fertilizing. Or, use a water soluble fertilizer every other week. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions so as not to burn tender plant roots.
Groom plants by clipping off damaged stems, yellow leaves and spent flowers. This will also improve air circulation and sunlight reach.
Trellis or stake plants that get too tall to prevent them from flopping over.

As they enjoy their time outdoors, you’ll see healthier, more robust houseplants with plentiful new growth and vigor. Why not give all your plants a great spring and summer getaway by moving them outdoors?

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Yellowjackets: Good Guys or Bad?

When you hear “yellowjacket,” what’s the first thing that comes to mind? A buzzing, stinging insect ruining your outdoor meal or a treasured pollinator of many plants? A yellowjacket is both!

About Yellowjackets

The most commonly found yellowjacket is the Eastern yellowjacket (Vespula maculifrons). The Eastern yellowjacket is a wasp that is 1/2 to 5/8 inch long and is black and yellow striped. The body is curved under and is wider than the head. Yellowjackets do not have any “hairs” such as are found on honeybees and bumblebees.

Yellowjackets are generally ground nesters, however, in some situations, especially in urban areas, they will make their nest above ground such as in hollow walls and attics.

During the spring and summer, the colony population increases from the fertilized solitary queen, who survived the winter, to several thousand. Adult yellowjackets feed protein to the young wasps and larvae while they subsist on sugars. Foraging for food, the wasps cross-pollinate plants while seeking small insects and nectar. Yellowjackets provide a valuable service to humans by consuming numerous insects that eat ornamental and cultivated plants.

On the other hand, yellowjackets are drawn to cookouts, picnic areas and garbage cans. Their sting, unfortunately, is especially painful. Unlike honeybees, which only sting once, wasps can sting numerous times. Some people react severely to the venom and may have problems breathing or other dangerous reactions.

To Minimize Yellowjacket Interactions

Despite their good characteristics, many people prefer to keep yellowjackets away from picnics, play areas and yards. To reduce the possibility of inviting yellowjackets to your outdoor party…

Don’t leave moist pet food outside during the summer. Bird seed is fine, but not suet.
Keep garbage cans washed. Securely cover all garbage cans and recycling containers. Rinse beer, wine, soft drink and ice cream containers before disposing of them.
Keep garbage cans away from entertainment areas, play areas and pathways.
If eating outdoors, cover all serving plates and drinking glasses/bottles to prevent yellowjackets from getting into food or drink. When yellowjackets are in the area, be sure to check your food and drink before consuming.
Yellowjackets feed on aphids and scale on trees and shrubs. Therefore, spray for these pests in July and August, if needed, to remove that food source.
Repair dripping hoses and faucets as the puddles can attract wasps.
Wasps enjoy rotting fruit. Harvest tree and cane fruits when ripe. Carefully pick up all fallen fruit (gloves are a good idea!) and dispose of it in a covered container.
Wasps create a flight-path from the nest to food sources. Avoid this area. If this is not possible, consider removing the nest.

Yellowjacket Traps

To help make your outdoor gatherings more pleasant and safer, yellowjacket traps can be effective. Hang these around the perimeter of your yard if you plan to eat outside, but never hang traps near the food area, as you will only increase the attraction to that area. Some traps are disposable and have the benefit of reducing the sting possibility. Others are “reusable” and must be emptied and refilled with bait. These increase the probability of being stung but can be more affordable in the long term.

Eliminating Yellowjacket Nests

When absolutely necessary, the elimination of a yellowjacket nest should not be undertaken lightly. If it’s early in the season and the nest is visible, a forceful water blast will break it apart. To reduce the chances of being stung, do this during the day while the workers are not home. Wasps return to the colony as dusk. Sometimes the workers will begin rebuilding in the same place. Pesticide sprays can kill wasps, and after the nest is destroyed, spraying the area can discourage rebuilding. If it’s later in the season, the aerial nest may be too large to eliminate safely.

Underground nests are a much bigger challenge to destroy. Because the entrance may be at an angle to the nest, flooding seldom works. Never try to burn a yellowjacket ground nest by pouring kerosene or other flammable liquid into the entrance and lighting it. In addition to many stings, more serious injuries may occur. This also pollutes the soil and a fire can quickly get out of control. If the flight pattern to the entrance creates a serious hardship or is close to a building, it is best to consult with an expert for safe nest elimination.

If the yellowjackets have built their colonies within your house walls or attic, it may also be necessary to contact a professional. Note: if yellowjackets are nesting in your home, do not plug the entrance/exit hole or they may chew the rest of the way into your house! Our experts can offer a professional referral for local wasp removal services or search “Pest Control” for your city on the Internet or in the yellow pages.

Yellowjackets do have their uses, but if you have no use for these stinging insects, there are many ways to eliminate them safely. Using several techniques will be most effective and will minimize the risk of being troubled by wasps again.

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Begonias for the Home

Begonias are a beautiful and diverse group of plants, with more than 1,500 species. Some are suitable for use as bedding plants or in container gardens, some for hanging baskets and others for indoor cultivation. Begonias are treasured not only for their colorful flowers but also for their unique foliage, and many varieties make spectacular houseplants.

Indoor Begonia Care

Begonias require little care when grown indoors. They need plenty of bright light with shading from the intense afternoon sun. Comfortable indoor temperatures are advisable, 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit, and should drop slightly at night, but not below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Begonias are very sensitive to over watering. Make certain that the soil drains well, the pot has a drainage hole and water is not permitted to stand in the saucer. It is beneficial to provide additional humidity as heating and air conditioning rob indoor air of precious moisture. The best way to increase humidity is to use a humidity tray under your begonias. Avoid misting these plants to prevent mildew on leaves. Provide adequate air circulation to ensure the foliage stays fresh without excessive dampness.

Indoor begonias are relatively carefree if they are kept healthy. Insects that commonly affect indoor plants may also cause problems for begonias. These include mealybug, whitefly and spider mites. If leaves become crispy around the edges it is an indication that the plant requires more humidity. If the leaves yellow and start to fall off it means the plant is receiving too much water. Fertilize begonias bi-weekly with a balanced fertilizer during the growing season. Stop fertilizing during the winter months to give the plant a rest.

If you have any questions about these or any other houseplant problems, please call or stop by our greenhouse and speak with one of our experts.

Best Begonias for Indoor Cultivation

Angel Wing Begonias
These begonias are favored for their large, colorful, patterned, wing-shaped leaves. The flowers of this begonia are large, hang in clusters and tend to be soft in color. Angel Wings bloom in shades of white, pink, red and orange. Due to their cascading habit, these plants lend themselves well to hanging baskets but also look wonderful in larger pots. You may pinch Angel Wing Begonias to keep them at a manageable size and also to promote new canes at the base of the plant. Hang these plants outside in a semi-shaded area during the summer.

Rex Begonias
Although these begonias do flower, rex begonias are grown primarily for their striking foliage. The leaves are uniquely shaped, unusually patterned, heavily textured and come in exceptional color combinations that can include green, pink, red, silver, yellow, orange, maroon and purple.

Rieger Begonias
These are one of the most loved and easy to care for houseplants. The main attraction of this plant is the brilliantly colored, double or semi-double flowers in white, yellow, orange, pink and red. This plant will flower for several months and the flowers will last longer if temperatures are on the cooler side, 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit. Deadhead to encourage new blooms and extend the blooming season.

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Worrisome Weeds

Gardeners spend hours carefully cultivating their favorite plants, whether they are delicious veggies, flavorful herbs, sweet fruits, stunning flowers or luxurious grasses. It hardly seems fair that unwanted weeds barge in and take advantage of all that work, and seem to sprout up without any effort. Fortunately, there are many ways to control weeds without losing your mind or your garden to their influence.

Stopped Before They Start

The easiest way to stop weeds from invading your lawn and garden is preventing them in the first place. Proper practices can discourage weeds from growing. Helpful tips to achieve a beautiful, weed-free lawn and garden include…

Buy only high quality, certified grass seed and select a variety that is best suited for the amount of sunlight and traffic expected in the area, as well as its ability to withstand drought, insects and disease. The healthier the lawn is, the less room there will be for invading weeds to use.
Avoid light, frequent watering or overwatering. Plants that receive deep, infrequent watering generate extensive root systems. Strong roots foster thick, hearty plants and lawns that withstand stress, preventing invasions from pests, weeds and disease.
Fertilize your lawn and garden on a regular basis. Be sure to first test your soil to determine its pH and add any soil amendments necessary to ensure ideal growing conditions. This will help keep your turf, garden and plants healthy so they crowd out any unwelcome weeds.
Always cut lawns at the proper mowing height. Never cut off more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time. Keep mower blades sharp to avoid tearing plant leaves. Scalping or mowing too closely will stress your lawn, while weeds thrive under these conditions. A dense, healthy, vigorous lawn will resist the intrusion of weeds.
Properly cultivate lawns and gardens. By routinely tilling flower beds and aerating lawns, you reduce compaction and thatch. This allows air, water and nutrients to flow freely through the soil, making them more available to plants. Healthier plants will grow more vigorously, taking room and nutrients away from weeds.
Densely plant and generously mulch flowers, trees and ornamentals. By eliminating space and sunlight, weeds won’t have the needed room or nutrients to gain a foothold in beds and gardens. Always be careful mulch does not come in contact with plant stems and trunks as this can create areas of excessive moisture where fungus and disease problems can arise.
Plant ground cover or landscape hard to grow areas. If weeds are a persistent problem and you have difficulty growing grass in certain areas of your yard, consider alternative plants or decorative material such as landscape rock or other hardscaping.
Stop weeds before they can seed or develop extensive root structures. Remove existing weeds by pulling or hoeing them or use an all-purpose weed killer of your choice. Then apply Preen, corn gluten or similar pre-emergent controls to prevent new weeds from germinating.

Weeds may be a problem in any landscape, lawn or garden, but the more steps you take to eliminate them, the more successful your efforts will be and the fewer weeds you’ll see.

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Best Fruits for the Urban Garden

With the right plant picks, you can grow a bountiful feast of fruit in your urban garden. From your favorite fruit trees to succulent vines to bushes bursting with berry goodness, your urban garden can be highly productive, supplying delicious fruit for your nourishment and enjoyment.

What Fruits Need

Fruit-bearing plants need well-drained, loamy soil, adequate water for appropriate juiciness, and abundant sunlight for rich, productive growth. It can be a challenge to meet those needs in an urban environment, but your space may offer more resources than you realize. Study how sunlight moves through your garden space, including how shaded and sun-drenched areas change over time so you can best plan which plants to position for the best growth. Choose good quality potting soil if you’re planting in window boxes, pots, or containers, or amend your natural soil with appropriate compost and add the correct fertilizer to nourish hungry plants. Be prepared to water your plants adequately, particularly if natural rainfall isn’t enough for the plants’ needs. Regardless of the size of your garden space, you can meet fruits’ needs for a delicious and abundant harvest.

Best Fruits for Urban Gardening

The best fruits for urban gardens are those that keep compact shapes and adapt well to smaller spaces. They are also flexible with their sunlight needs, though most fruits require at least some full sun for the best production. Fruits that are well-suited to urban spaces include…

Apples
Blueberries
Bush cherries
Figs
Grapes
Peaches
pears
Plums
Raspberries
Strawberries

The exact fruits that will do well in your space will vary depending on your gardening zone and climate conditions. Pay particular attention to the number of chill hours fruits may need in order to produce, as this is critical to ensure a good harvest. Depending on the type of plant and its needs, you may even be able to move your gardening efforts indoors and cultivate some fruit plants without any outdoor gardening space at all!

Tips for Urban Garden Fruits

There are different ways to ensure your fruit plants, bushes, trees, and vines thrive in your unique space. To encourage the best growth and healthiest plants…

Choose plant cultivars that are self-pollinating and don’t require multiple plants in order to produce fruit.
Opt for berry cultivars that are everbearing or repeat-bearing to extend the harvest and get the most fruit from the fewest plants.
Provide adequate support with trellises, arbors, pergolas, or other structures that are sturdy enough to handle the mature plants’ size and the fruits’ weight.
Create layers of gardening space by using hanging pots and vertical structures that will give you even more room for planting.
Use plant stands on casters so you are able to move sun-loving plants around to take advantage of shifting light angles and maximize the plants’ productivity.
Choose dwarf or super-dwarf tree varieties that will not only thrive in smaller spaces but will also produce fruit when younger, so your first harvest is not delayed.
Dwarf fruit trees are perfect for espalier against a sunny wall.
Take steps to encourage bees and hummingbirds in your garden to aid pollination and keep your plants productive.
Use netting, reflectors, or other tactics to discourage birds that may raid your harvest even before the fruit has fully ripened.
Be alert for pests that may threaten your plants’ health and productivity, as they can find their way into any garden space – even indoors.

Growing fruit in the urban garden can be a tasty and enjoyable pastime, so long as you opt for fruits that will do best with the resources your space provides. By making the most of your space, you’ll easily have a fruitful harvest for all your favorite fresh fruits, homemade jams, preserves, sweet salads, baked goods, and other treats.

Vertical Gardening for Small Spaces

It’s easy to maximize even the tiniest garden space when you look up – and up, and up, and up. Whether you have a balcony, deck, small terrace, raised beds or container garden, vertical gardening is a great way to increase your cultivated ground and enjoy a more abundant harvest no matter how small your garden may be.

Options for Vertical Gardening

What types of vertical gardening techniques you can use will vary depending on the space you have and what you hope to grow, but it is always possible to take your garden up a level or two. Great options for vertical gardening include…

Elevated Containers
Containers don’t have to be at ground level to be useful gardening space. Adding window boxes above a flower bed, for example, will give you more space to grow your favorite flowers, herbs or other plants. Some boxes can also be mounted on railings, adding extra growing space to a deck or balcony. Different sizes of pots and containers can be nested together to create a gardening tower perfect for trailing plants.
Hanging Containers
Think from the top down when you opt for hanging pots or sleeve garden systems as part of your vertical gardening approach. Pots can be hung from hooks along a wall or fence, or may hang from an overhanging roof or the arch of an arbor, and each one is another opportunity to add more plants to your growing space.
Trellises
Train different plants to take advantage of vertical space by providing trellises for them to use as they grow. Many vines and climbing plants will naturally make their way up different supports, whether the trellis is wood, plastic, wire or string. A-frame and teepee-style trellises can provide even more support for heavier plants that require extra help.
Green Walls
A full green wall is a great way to verticalize your growing space, and can even be done indoors if desired. Small pots or creative containers such as rain boots, garden shoes, mason jars, small tin pails or plastic bottles can be attached to a fence or wall, or a pallet can be designed as a vertical gardening space to be hung on a wall to maximize every inch.
Arbors
Arbors and archways can add to your gardening space as well as make a welcoming accent to the area. The sides of an arbor can be used as a trellis, and hooks can be added on the sides and top of an arbor for more hanging pots. Some arbors even have built-in containers for more convenient gardening.
Shelf Systems
Larger than basic containers or planting pots, shelf gardening systems truly make the most of every bit of space by adding extra tiers to the gardening area. These broad gardening shelves are useful for a wide range of plants and seedlings, and are great to add to any smaller garden in need of extra space.
Cinderblock Walls
A cinderblock divider or wall can easily become a fun vertical planter when the blocks are oriented to provide small spaces to use as different pots. Trailing plants are ideal for this type of space as they will drape down and cover the other exposed blocks, and the blocks themselves add visual and textural interest to small spaces.

Plants That Love Vertical Spaces

Any plants that can thrive in containers will do well in vertical gardening arrangements. Popular choices include…

Basil
Butternut squash
Chili peppers
Chives
Cilantro
Cucumbers
Garlic
Hops
Kale
Leeks
Lettuces
Mint
Oregano
Peas
Pole beans
Pumpkins
Radishes
Sage
Scallions
Spinach
Strawberries
Sweet potatoes
Tomatillos
Tomatoes
Watermelon

In addition to these delicious edibles, a vertical garden can also be filled in with colorful flowers, ferns, succulents and ivy. These extra plants can help beautify your small space and fill in gaps so every inch of gardening space is richly used.

Make the Most of Your Vertical Garden

To make sure your vertical garden thrives, it is vital to water it properly, as vertical gardens will dry out more quickly than a traditional garden. A watering wand can help water hanging containers or higher vertical spots more easily, and grouping plants with similar watering needs together can make this task easier. Good fertilizer is also essential to be sure plants get enough nutrition to grow properly, but choose the type of fertilizer carefully to support your plants – leafy greens and foliage plants, for example, need a different fertilizer composition than flowers, fruits or vegetables. Use pot feet, casters or wheeled stands whenever possible so you can rotate plants to get even sun exposure or to move vertical gardening arrangements into more suitable locations as seasons change. To help support taller plants, different stakes, cages and other supports can be useful and will help increase your gardening space even further.

Once you start thinking “up” instead of “out” for your garden, you’ll be surprised at just how much gardening space you really have, and how many different plants you can enjoy at all different levels.

Cultivating A Passion for Garden Photography

Does your gardening passion include taking photos of your plants and progress?

Capturing the beauty of a garden through photography is a gratifying experience that allows one to freeze moments of natural splendor in time. With cell phones, it couldn’t be easier. Whether it’s the vibrant hues of blooming flowers, the delicate dance of butterflies, or the serene charm of a sun-dappled pathway, garden photography celebrates the wonders of nature. Sharing these snapshots of joy with others can be equally rewarding. One outstanding way to showcase garden photos is through social media platforms like Instagram or Facebook, where fellow gardeners can admire and engage with the images. Another means is creating a dedicated blog to narrate the stories behind each photograph, sharing gardening tips, and fostering a sense of community among fellow green-thumbs. Furthermore, printing, and framing garden photos can transform them into tangible keepsakes, perfect for preserving the serenity and beauty of nature for perpetuity. Ultimately, sharing garden photos not only spreads joy but also inspires others to appreciate and cultivate their own slice of natural paradise.

We want to assist you if you’d like to increase your cell phone garden photography skills. Capturing beautiful snapshots of your garden just takes a little knowledge, practice, and patience. Let us introduce you to a number of useful cell phone photography tips from experts to help you take stunning photos to showcase the vibrant beauty of your garden.

Optimize Lighting
- Shoot during the golden hours, early morning or late afternoon, for soft and warm light ideal for capturing the beauty of your garden.
- Overcast days can provide even lighting, minimizing harsh shadows.
Clean Your Lens
- Before you start shooting, be sure to wipe the lens of your phone with a clean cloth to remove any dirt or smudges that could affect image clarity.
Focus on Composition
- Utilize the rule of thirds to create visually appealing compositions. Imagine dividing your frame into a grid of nine equal sections and placing key elements along the lines or at their intersections.
- Experiment with different angles to find the most flattering view.
Utilize Depth of Field
- Most smartphone cameras come with portrait mode or a similar feature that allows you to create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making your subject stand out.
- Experiment with selective focus to draw attention to specific elements within your garden, such as a single flower or a butterfly resting on a leaf.
Mind Your Background
- Be mindful of what’s in the background of your photos. Look for clean, uncluttered backgrounds that won’t distract from your main subject.
- Experiment with different angles and perspectives to find the most pleasing background for your composition.
- Choose backgrounds that complement your flowers without distracting from them.
Capture Details
- Capture the intricate details of your plants, details that make your garden unique. Get up close and personal to depict the elaborate patterns of petals, the delicate veins of leaves, or the tiny insects that call your garden home.
- Use the macro mode on your smartphone camera, if available, to obtain stunning close-up shots with incredible detail.
Embrace Natural Elements
- Incorporate natural elements such as water droplets, dew-covered leaves, or beams of sunlight filtering through the trees to add visual interest to your photos.
- Feel free to get creative and experiment with different ways to incorporate these elements into your compositions.
Catch Seasonal Changes
- Document the various stages of your flowers, from bud to bloom. This adds a dynamic element to your photography.
- Showcase the seasonal transformations of your garden.
Steady Shots
- Keep your phone steady to avoid blurry images. Use both hands or lean against a stable surface.
- If your phone has manual settings, experiment with adjusting the exposure for better results.
Play with Perspectives
- Experiment with different perspectives – shooting from above, below, or at eye level.
- Capture the essence of your flowers by including wider shots that showcase the overall beauty.
Edit Wisely
- After taking your photos, spend some time editing them to enhance their beauty further, taking advantage of built-in editing tools or third-party apps to enhance your photos.
- Experiment with adjustments to brightness, contrast, saturation, and sharpness to fine-tune your images and make them pop.
Practice Patience
- Remember that great garden photography takes knowledge, practice, and patience. Take the time to explore your garden thoroughly, waiting for the perfect moments to seize it in all its glory.
- Don’t be discouraged by initial failures or setbacks. Keep experimenting, learning, and refining your skills, and you’ll soon be capturing stunning garden photos with ease.

Sharing plant and garden photos on social media is not just about showcasing botanical beauty; it’s a vibrant celebration of nature’s artistry and a delightful way to connect with like-minded enthusiasts. Whether it’s a stunning array of blossoms in full bloom or the intricate patterns of a succulent garden, each snapshot captures a moment of joy and inspiration. The fun lies in the camaraderie of sharing tips, tricks, and successes, fostering a sense of community among green thumbs worldwide. From swapping gardening hacks to marveling at rare plant finds, social media platforms become virtual gardens where friendships flourish amidst the foliage. Moreover, sharing these snapshots can inspire others to embrace the therapeutic joys of gardening, fostering a ripple effect of appreciation for the natural world. So, next time you capture the radiance of your garden, share it with the world and watch the seeds of inspiration bloom.

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Rain Barrels

You’ve heard it said, “When it rains, it pours.” In gardening terms, this could easily refer to the amount of rain on the roof going through the gutters and downspouts, and then out to the storm drains and pouring away from your garden. With the unpredictability of rain and the cost of water, don’t you wish you could keep some of that rain and put it to better use? You can, by installing a rain barrel, or two, or three or more. Rain barrels don’t have to be expensive or an eyesore.

The Best Rain Barrels

By diverting the gutter downspout to the rain barrel, rainwater is collected during a storm and stored. A fine mesh screen across the top prevents rocks and debris from entering the barrel and mosquitoes from laying their eggs. It’s a good idea to use a small amount of algaecide to prevent algae from building up in the barrel as well. Some barrels even have a solid cover with an opening to fit the downspout into, and the darkness inside the barrel helps inhibit algae growth.

Most rain barrels have two spigots, one at the top and one by the bottom. Attaching a hose to the top spigot redirects excess water when the barrel is full. You may use this to connect to another rain barrel that stores the overflow from the first, or you may position the overflow hose to direct excess rain to a nearby flowerbed, tree, garden or other plantings that can benefit from a good soaking.

A hose attached to the bottom spigot allows the stored water to flow for use. Incidentally, the water pressure increases if the rain barrel is elevated even just a few inches, allowing gravity to assist getting every drop of precious water out of the barrel so it can be put to use.

Value of a Rain Barrel

Is it worth it? According to the United States Geological Survey (USGS), a rainstorm measured at 1/10th of an inch, over a 20’x30′ roof, would more than fill a 32-gallon rain barrel if all the water is properly directed. Multiply this amount by your water charge per gallon and you’ll see it won’t take long to pay back the small investment made in a few barrels.

Furthermore, rainwater is often better for watering garden plots, containers, flowerbeds and new plantings, and is even better for many houseplants. Rainwater does not contain the same chemical treatments or compounds found in tap water, so collecting rainwater is a healthier alternative for keeping all your plants well hydrated.

Not sure which rain barrels will suit your style or how to set them up effectively? Stop in to see our collection and consult with our experts to choose exactly the barrel that will help meet all your watering needs.

Watering Tomato Plants

Proper watering plays a significant role in producing a healthy tomato plant with tasty, meaty, juicy fruit. So, what’s the secret, and how can you be sure you are watering your tomatoes the right way?

Watering Location

Always water tomatoes at the root zone; never overhead water your tomato plant. Watering directly at the soil level will strengthen the plant’s root system and ensure the maximum amount of moisture reaches the roots. When you overhead water, much of the water will not make it to the roots as it evaporates before reaching the soil. Water droplets on plant leaves act as a magnifying glass and can burn tender plant tissue, damaging foliage that is essential to keep the plant healthy. Water dripping from leaf to leaf can also spread disease, infecting an entire crop. To be sure tomatoes are not being watered inappropriately, keep plants out of reach of lawn sprinkler systems or other inadvertent watering.

Watering Speed

Slow watering is essential to properly distribute moisture to a tomato plant. Allow the water to drip slowly into the soil, giving the plant roots time to absorb the moisture. A drip system is best and will also help with water conservation. Avoid using a hand held hose, as it is easy to either underwater or overwater using this method. Water to a depth of 8 inches to ensure all roots have access to adequate moisture. You can also use a watering reservoir, such as a gallon jug with several small holes in its bottom, to slowly and carefully water the plants without flooding the root zone.

Watering Frequency

A regular watering schedule is essential for the healthiest, most productive tomato plants. Water consistently to produce larger fruits and to avoid split and cracked fruit and blossom end rot. Tomato plants should be watered 2-3 times a week in the height of summer or when natural rain is lacking. A deep soaking rain counts and supplemental watering should be adjusted whenever Mother Nature lends a hand with watering chores. The top inch or two of soil should dry out between watering to be sure the plant is not getting too much moisture.

Watering Adjustments

There are several times when it may be necessary to adjust where, when and how much you water your tomatoes. Changes in local rainfall – increasing spring or summer rains, a sudden storm, an unexpected drought – can require changes in supplemental watering to keep the moisture to your tomatoes consistent. As plants grow and more fruit appears, more water may be needed to meet the plant’s watering needs and keep it lush and healthy.

By understanding the basics of watering tomatoes, you can keep your plants well hydrated without risk of either overwatering or underwatering, both of which could be disastrous for your tomato crop.

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Rose – Queen of the Garden

We all love roses. It may be the luxurious fragrances, rich colors or the elegant flower forms that attract us. It may be the memories that roses evoke. Whatever the reason, roses are one of the world’s most popular flowers. With so many different types of roses available, ranging from the diminutive miniatures to the towering climbers, there is no excuse to exclude this “Queen of Flowers” from your garden.

Rose Types

There are many types of roses to cultivate, and it can be difficult to choose. If you’re just getting started with roses, consider some of these popular favorites…

Hybrid Tea Roses: These blooms are a favorite of rose gardeners who enjoy long-stemmed, large flowers. Hybrid tea flowers have many petals and plants grow upright and tall, about 3-7 feet. These roses are appropriate in either a formal garden or informal planting.
Floribunda Roses: These roses have smaller flowers than hybrid teas with the flowers arranged in clusters. This rose bush is useful as a hedge for a border or privacy screen, and is equally stunning in mass plantings.
Grandiflora Roses: These beauties were developed by crossing hybrid teas with floribundas. This rose grows to around 10 feet tall so it should be used in the back of the border where its beauty won’t shroud other plants. The flowers of the Grandiflora are hybrid tea form and can be single stemmed or borne in clusters depending on the cultivar.
Climbing Roses: These roses make an outstanding vertical display when trained on arbors, walls, fences, trellises and pergolas and can grow from 8-15 feet tall. Flowers may be borne large and single or small and arranged in clusters.
Miniature Roses: These delicate nymphs are dwarf in every way – flowers, leaves and height. This rose may be mass planted as a ground cover, used as border or grown in containers on decks, patios and porches.
Shrub Roses: These flowers are renowned for their bushy habit and superior disease resistance making them an excellent choice for mass planting. The shrub rose flower may be either single or double. Some types have very showy rose hips.
Old Roses: These luscious heirlooms are making a come-back! Although bloom times and color choices are limited, old roses are much more fragrant, vigorous and disease resistant than modern roses. To obtain all the qualities of an old rose combined with a long bloom time of a modern rose, look for the David Austin varieties.

Not sure which rose is just right for your landscape or garden? Our rose experts will be glad to help you choose the perfect rose no matter what thoughts or emotions you want your garden to evoke. Stop in today to see the latest types of roses and the most popular cultivars for this year’s gardening.

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Vegetable Garden Weed Control

You may want to grow many different things in your vegetable garden, but weeds probably aren’t on your favorite edibles list. Weeding can be an enormous time-drain and is one of the the least liked gardening chores. What’s wonderful is that we have so many weed control methods to choose from; there’s a solution for every type of gardener and their schedule.

Safe Control Methods in Edible Gardens

When it comes to vegetable gardening, many gardeners are very particular about what goes into their soil and onto their plants, as it will eventually end up on their plates and in their bodies. Here are some indisputable safe and effective ways to control weeds, without chemicals, in your veggie or any other garden for that matter.

Apply corn gluten meal to prevent weed seeds from germinating (don’t use if direct seeding your garden as all seeds will be affected).
Plan your garden to crowd edible plants together, effectively crowding out weeds because there isn’t space left for them to grow.
Manually pull weeds when the soil is wet and roots are looser. This can be done after a natural rainfall or after supplemental watering.
Hoe when the soil is dry to break apart weeds and damage their roots. Pick up larger weeds after hoeing so they cannot reestablish themselves.
Mulch with salt hay which contains no weed seeds. The hay will shield weed seeds from the sunlight and moisture they need for germinating.
Lay biodegradable and compostable mulch film down to create a firm barrier to keep weeds out or to prevent existing weed seeds from germinating.
Attract seed-loving birds such as finches and sparrows, which will happily eat hundreds of weed seeds each day for natural control.
Consider raised beds or container gardening to more effectively control weeds and make any remaining weeding easier.
Use fire (with all appropriate safety precautions) to burn out unwanted weeds, especially in pathway areas or along garden borders.
Treat exposed weeds with boiling water – the hotter the better – to cook and kill them. Several treatments may be needed for the best effects.

Weeds can be some of our worst enemies in the garden, and it is impossible to eliminate every single weed all the time. By using multiple methods and keeping on top of the task, however, it is possible to minimize weeds and make this chore less onerous, without resorting to harsh chemicals.