Author Archives: Perennial Gardens, Inc.

The Power of Mulching for Gardens and Yards

Imagine stepping into a lush, healthy garden where every plant is thriving, the soil feels rich and cool to the touch, and weeds are nowhere to be seen. What’s the secret behind this picture-perfect scene? Often, you’ll find a thick, tidy layer of mulch at the heart of a flourishing landscape. At first, mulch may seem like just a finishing touch. Many gardeners, especially beginners, view it as a cosmetic choice that makes flower beds pop. But dig a little deeper (literally and figuratively), and you’ll discover that mulching is one of the most versatile, powerful tools available for anyone who loves their yard. From saving water to feeding the earth, mulching goes well beyond surface-level beauty.

Why Mulch Matters More Than You Think

Mulching does far more than clean up the edges of garden beds. It acts as a multitasking shield for your soil and plants, offering an impressive array of benefits that any homeowner or gardener can appreciate:

Moisture Retention: Cuts down on watering by keeping precious moisture locked in.
Weed Suppression: Reduces the time and energy you’ll spend pulling pesky weeds.
Temperature Regulation: Shields roots from summer heat and winter cold snaps.
Nutrient Boost: Organic mulch breaks down to feed your soil naturally.
Erosion Control: Keeps valuable topsoil from washing away during heavy rain.
Enhanced Visual Appeal: Ties your garden together for a crisp, cohesive look.
Pest Mitigation: Some mulches even help deter certain insect pests and diseases.
Biodiversity Support: Mulch provides habitat for beneficial insects and microbes.

Moisture Retention: Keep Water Where Your Plants Need It

Water is a lifeline for every garden, but it can be elusive during droughts or hot summers. Mulch provides a powerful barrier against evaporation, allowing water to penetrate the soil while preventing it from escaping as easily. A properly mulched bed needs less frequent watering, which protects roots and saves you time, money, and resources.

Tip: Lay mulch after rain or watering to trap existing moisture.
Bonus: Less surface water also means fewer muddy shoes and splashes on house siding.

Weed Suppression: Enjoy More Beauty with Less Work

Few things frustrate gardeners like relentless weeds. Mulch directly addresses this pain point by blocking sunlight from weed seeds, reducing both the number and strength of unwanted plants. While it won’t prevent every single weed, a 2-4 inch layer can cut the workload by more than half.

Tip: Before adding fresh mulch, pull existing weeds and smooth the soil to set a weed-resistant foundation.
Pro Insight: Try double-mulching (using a layer of newspaper or biodegradable weed barrier beneath organic mulch) for especially stubborn areas.

Temperature Regulation: Create a Year-Round Comfort Zone

Wild temperature swings stress even the hardiest plants. Mulch is like a cozy blanket, insulating the ground so roots don’t freeze in winter or bake in summer. This stability is key for perennials and young plants with delicate root systems. You’ll notice more robust and resilient growth, with fewer casualties, following harsh seasons.

Tip: Apply mulch in early spring and fall to buffer your plants during seasonal transitions.
Real-World Example: At our garden center, we have found that even city gardens with unpredictable microclimates benefit from this protective touch.

Soil Improvement: Feed Your Soil and Fuel Your Garden

Organic mulches are the solution for those looking to nurture the earth as much as their flowers and vegetables. Over time, materials such as shredded bark, straw, compost, or leaves break down, replenishing your soil with valuable nutrients and organic matter. This natural process improves drainage, aeration, and soil structure, leading to healthier roots and more vibrant results.

Did you know? Healthy soil attracts beneficial worms and microbes that turbocharge decomposition and plant growth.

Erosion Control: Keep Your Garden Intact

Heavy rains can wash away precious topsoil. Mulch reduces the impact of water runoff and shields bare soil, preventing erosion on slopes, hillsides, and in new plantings. If your yard is on an incline or prone to heavy storms, don’t skip this step!

Smart Move: Start mulching bare patches early, even before planting, to stabilize the ground.

Visual Impact: Show Off Your Style

Let’s admit it, a mulched garden just looks incredible. Whether you’re into rustic bark, bold colors, or sleek river stones, mulch sets the tone for your entire landscape. Choose a hue and material that complements your home and plant palette for instant curb appeal.

Types of Mulch- What’s Right for Your Garden

Choosing the ideal mulch depends on many factors, including your plant choices, local climate, soil needs, and personal style. Here’s a deep-dive into common and creative options:

Hardwood Mulch: The All-Purpose Favorite

Made From: Shredded bark or wood (often oak or maple).
Ideal For: Perennials, trees, shrubs, and general landscaping.
Pros: Durable, slow to decompose, great value. Creates a polished, even surface.
Tip: Double or triple-ground hardwood is less likely to blow or wash away.

Pine Mulch: A Match for Acid-Loving Plants

Made From: Pine bark chunks or needles.
Best Use: Around azaleas, blueberries, rhododendrons, or anywhere you want a looser texture.
Pros: Lightweight, simple to spread; adds acidity as it breaks down.
Watch Out: May float during rain and doesn’t suppress weeds as firmly if not applied thick enough.

Cedar Mulch: Aromatic and Long-Lasting

Standout Features: Pleasant smell, naturally deters pests, and resists rot thanks to its oils.
Perfect For: High-traffic spots, patios, or beds near decks and seating areas.
Benefits: Holds color and structure longer than most organic mulches. Adds a unique scent to outdoor spaces.
Downside: Slower breakdown means less immediate soil improvement and higher upfront cost.

Dyed Mulch Adds Drama and Definition

Options: Bold reds, deep blacks, or chocolate browns.
Why Choose It: Color stays vibrant longer, perfect for making beds pop or defining pathways.
Quality Tip: Only purchase from trusted suppliers who use safe, vegetable-based dyes. Verify that the wood source is not from treated pallets or waste.
Note: Color will fade over time, but mulch can be refreshed annually.

Natural & Living Mulch: Go Green and Get Creative

Natural Mulch: Undyed wood chips, compost, straw, or shredded leaves. Earthy look, improves soil fast.
Living Mulch: Low groundcovers like clover or creeping thyme. Suppresses weeds and provides habitat for pollinators.
When to Use: Vegetable gardens, wildlife-friendly landscapes, or anywhere you want rapid soil enrichment.

Rubber Mulch & Stone Mulch: Long-Lasting, Low Maintenance

Rubber Mulch: Made from recycled tires, great for playgrounds, dog runs, or non-plant areas. Won’t decompose or blow away.
Cautions: No soil benefits, may get hot in direct sun, should not be used near edible gardens or delicate plants.
Stone or Gravel Mulch: Ideal for arid gardens, around cacti or succulents, or in permanent xeriscape installations. Prevents weed growth and delivers a striking visual contrast.

Specialty Mulches: Uncommon Solutions

Cocoa Hulls: Smells like chocolate, breaks down fast, improves soil, but can be toxic to dogs.
Straw/Grass Clippings: Superb for veggie beds, boosts fertility fast, but must be free of weed seeds and pesticides.

Tips for the Best Results

Start with weed-free, slightly damp soil for optimal application.
Spread mulch evenly, 2-4 inches deep, and keep it clear of plant stems or trunks to prevent rot.
Replenish mulch as needed, typically once per year; organic mulch will naturally settle and decompose.
For sloped areas, try heavier mulches or use edging to keep material in place.
Pay special attention to moisture and airflow in humid climates to prevent fungal growth.

Mulch with Purpose and Confidence

Mulching isn’t just a finishing touch; it’s a strategy that pays dividends all season. When you select the right mulch and apply it with care, you save water, reduce weeds, build healthier soil, and instantly improve your garden’s appearance. Whether you’re refreshing your backyard beds or designing a front-yard oasis, mulching adds resilience, style, and sustainability to every corner.

Need help choosing the perfect mulch for your yard? Stop by Perennial Gardens for friendly expert advice, the widest selection of top-quality mulches, and all the tools you need to mulch like a pro. Your future garden is waiting, and it’s guaranteed to look (and grow) better with the right mulch.

mulching benefits for gardens

Power of Mulching

Summer Blooming Trees

When choosing flowering trees for the landscape, we often tend to make our selections from the long list of ostentatious spring blooming trees that are all so common and familiar in every yard. At the same time, we tend to overlook the more reserved, yet exceptionally elegant, summer blooming trees that can add so much drama and beauty to every space. Check out this selection and consider one or two to round out the seasons when considering your next landscape addition.

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
Delicate crepe paper like flowers flourish in mid- to late summer in an assortment of colors like pink, fuchsia, coral, lavender, violet and red.

Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus)
This small, multi-stemmed, native tree features fragrant, showy, fringe-like white flowers in early summer just as many spring bloomers are fading.

Golden Rain Tree (Koelreuteria paniculata)
This medium tree is a showstopper with small, yellow flowers borne in large, upright panicles in July, just in time for summer parties.

Japanese Pagoda Tree (Sophora japonica)
A medium-large tree with creamy-white, slightly fragrant flowers borne in hanging drapes 6-12” long, this beauty offers late summer elegance from August through early September.

Japanese Stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia)
Pure white, camellia-like flowers with orange anthers bloom solitary in succession from June to August, giving plenty of drama and beauty through the season.

Japanese Tree Lilac (Syringa reticulate)
This small tree offers fragrant, off-white, tiny flowers borne in showy, large, terminal panicles in early summer.

Korean Dogwood (Cornus kousa)
Dramatic flowers with four large, showy, white bracts that age to a delicate pink sit atop tree foliage for up to six weeks in early summer.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum)
Fragrant, lily-of-the-valley-like flowers drip from branch tips in summer with excellent scarlet fall color, making this tree both a summer and autumn favorite.

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
Flowers, borne singly, have large, 6-8 inches wide, pure white petals. These trees bloom sporadically through the summer months.

Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana)
Fragrant, showy, white flowers appear throughout the summer, similar to but smaller than those of the Southern Magnolia.

Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea)
A native tree with fragrant, white flowers borne in summer on pendulous, wisteria-like panicles. This tree often flowers on alternate years but is stunning when it does.

Any of these beauties can be a dramatic and welcome addition to summer landscaping, reaching their peak just at the time when spring blooms are fading and autumn flowers and foliage are weeks away from brilliance.

summer blooming flowering trees

Watering When Away

It’s vacation time! You’re going to be gone for two weeks or more, your friends, neighbors and family members are all busy and the weatherman says it’s going to be “hot, hot, hot.” What about your houseplants?

Fear not! A few minutes of thoughtful planning and a quick trip to the garden center will ensure meeting your plants’ watering requirements even when you can’t be home for daily moisture checks. Popular and effective solutions include…

Pre-Watering: Before you leave on your trip, make sure your plants are well-watered. Many houseplants can withstand some watering neglect, and if you aren’t gone too long, they may not need any supplemental solutions if you’ve watered them right before your trip. Take care not to overwater, however, or you could be compounding the problem.

Self-Watering Containers: Planting your houseplants in self-watering pots is truly looking ahead. A reservoir holds water under the pot, and this water gradually travels to the soil via a wick, always keeping the soil moist so long as the reservoir contains water. If you want to use a specific pot without a built-in reservoir, use a conversion kit. Various sizes are available and some use fill tubes. Consider adding liquid fertilizer to the reservoir water to ensure your plant gets proper nutrition while you are away.

Individual Pot Drippers: These generally hold water above the plant. Various sizes and styles provide water to small and large pots. From beautiful blown glass globes to simple plastic bottles, these allow water to drip down into the soil through a drip-tip inserted in the soil. One style even looks like a flask attached to the side of the pot with a tube dripping water to the soil. Because they show above the plant, many people only use them during their vacation.

Automatic Watering Systems: These are more elaborate but very effective options. A large water reservoir feeds to clustered houseplants through small tubing attached to drippers inserted in the soil. Larger pots use two or more drippers. These systems pump water on a regular basis using a battery and timer, making them ideal for regular watering when you may be taking a longer trip. These also allow liquid fertilizer in the reservoir so your plants are properly nourished.

Additional Vacation Watering Tips:

Don’t worry about your succulents, they’ll be fine while you’re away. Be sure, however, to give them a little water when saying ‘goodbye’.
Group all your houseplants together on a tray of pebbles filled with water. The close grouping, along with the wet pebbles, will increase humidity and keep your plants cooler and moister while you are away.
Place houseplants that generally require frequent watering in a bathtub with a couple of inches of water. Place a towel under the pots to avoid scratching your tub.
Mulch the soil of large potted plants to help them retain moisture while you’re away.

Go ahead and enjoy your trip…your plants should be fine!

watering houseplants while away

Buddleia: Our Beloved Butterfly Bush or Not?

Buddleia, commonly known as the butterfly bush, is a flowering shrub that has won the hearts of many a gardener and pollinator lover for a very long time. Buddleia davidii, the most commonly grown species of butterfly bush, is renowned for its vibrant summer blooms, ease of care, and ability to attract butterflies. While butterfly bush is beloved for these reasons, B. davidii has a dirty little secret: it is invasive! Its ability to self-seed prolifically allows it to spread rapidly, sometimes outcompeting native vegetation. To mitigate this, gardeners are encouraged to plant sterile cultivars that do not produce viable seeds.

The Lo & Behold® and Miss Series of Sterile Butterfly Bushes

Overview of Sterile Series

The Lo & Behold® and Miss Series are notable for offering sterile varieties of Buddleia davidii, addressing concerns about the invasive nature of the species. These two series provide gardeners with beautiful, non-invasive options that maintain the ornamental and pollinator-attracting qualities of traditional butterfly bushes.

Lo & Behold Series
The Lo & Behold series offers a range of dwarf butterfly bushes that are sterile, meaning they don’t produce seeds and thus won’t spread invasively. Despite their sterility, they are still highly attractive to pollinators, especially butterflies and bees, and bloom continuously throughout the summer months.

Varieties:

Lo & Behold ‘Blue Chip’
- Color:Blue-purple
- Size:5-2.5 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Blue Chip Jr.’
- Color:Lavender blue
- Size:5-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Ice Chip’
- Color:White
- Size:1-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Lilac Chip’
- Color:Lavender-pink
- Size:5-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Pink Micro Chip’
- Color:Pink
- Size:1-2 feet tall and wide
Lo & Behold ‘Purple Haze’
- Color:Deep purple
- Size:2-3 feet tall and wide

Miss Series

The Miss series also features sterile butterfly bushes in a more standard size. It offers a larger shrub with beautiful blooms that attract a range of pollinators, including butterflies, bees, and even hummingbirds.

Varieties:

Miss Molly
- Color:Rich magenta
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide
Miss Pearl
- Color:Pure white
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide
Miss Ruby
- Color:Vivid ruby red
- Size:4-5 feet tall and wide

Attractiveness to Pollinators

Both series are designed to maintain the key feature that makes Buddleia davidii so popular: their appeal to pollinators. The dense clusters of flowers are particularly attractive to butterflies, which are drawn to the nectar. Bees also frequently visit these plants, making them a great addition to a pollinator-friendly garden. Hummingbirds have been known to visit the larger varieties in the Miss series, especially those with bright, vibrant colors like Miss Molly and Miss Ruby.

Perennial Gardens continues to provide you with up-to-date plant information as well as an incredible selection of plants to satisfy the most eco-conscious gardener.

sterile butterfly bush varieties

Selecting the Right Plant for the Right Place

More often than not, our landscape renovation wish lists include the desire for a picturesque, thriving, low-maintenance outdoor space to enjoy year-round for many years to come. Creating a flourishing landscape, however, isn’t simply about picking pretty plants. It’s about understanding your garden’s own unique environmental conditions and matching plant selection to them. This concept, known as “right plant, right place,” is a foundational principle in horticulture that ensures healthier plants, reduced maintenance, more sustainable gardening practices, and, therefore, greater garden longevity and homeowner happiness!

Why Choosing the Right Plant Matters

Healthier Plants:When plants are placed in environments suited to their needs, they grow healthier and stronger and are better able to resist pests and diseases.
Reduced Maintenance:Plants that thrive in their location require less intervention from the gardener. This translates to less work and more time to enjoy your garden.
Resource Efficiency:Using plants adapted to your local conditions means less water and fewer resources are needed, promoting sustainable gardening.
Enhanced Aesthetics:A well-planned and planted landscape will not only perform well but also look lush and beautiful. Planting in the correct environment enables landscape plants to grow to their full potential in size and bloom capacity.
Environmental Benefits:Native plants and those well-suited to the conditions in which they are planted support biodiversity, attract pollinators, and contribute to a balanced ecosystem.

How to Select the Right Plant for the Right Place

Assess Sunlight Exposure

Determine how much sunlight each part of your garden receives throughout the day and match plant selections to these conditions.

Full Sun– Direct sunlight for at least 6 to 8 hours daily. It is ideal for sun-loving plants like vegetables, roses, and most flowering perennials.
Partial Sun– 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, usually in the morning or afternoon. Plants labeled as “partial sun” prefer more light rather than less.
Partial Shade– 4 to 6 hours of sunlight, but these plants benefit from protection from the intense afternoon sun. It is best for plants that thrive in morning light and dappled conditions.
Dappled (Mottled) Shade– Sunlight filters through tree branches or structures, creating a shifting pattern of light and shade throughout the day. Common in woodland gardens.
Light Shade– Indirect sunlight for most of the day, with occasional brief periods of direct sun. It is found in areas near open structures or under high tree canopies.
Full Shade– Less than 4 hours of direct sun, typically in the early morning or late afternoon, with the rest of the day in indirect or reflected light.
Deep Shade (Dense Shade)– Little to no direct sunlight, often due to dense tree cover, walls, or structures blocking light.

Understand Soil Conditions

The Mid-Atlantic region has a diverse range of soil. Here are the primary soil types found in this:

Clay Soil– Heavy and dense clay soil holds water well but can become compacted, making drainage a challenge. It tends to be nutrient-rich but often needs amendments like compost or sand to improve structure and aeration.
Sandy Soil– Light and well-draining, sandy soil warms up quickly in spring but dries out just as fast. It’s great for plants that need good drainage but often requires organic matter like compost or peat moss to help retain moisture and nutrients.
Silty Soil – Smooth and slippery when wet, silty soil holds moisture better than sandy soil and contains more nutrients. It’s great for gardening but can become compacted over time, so adding organic matter helps maintain its structure.
Loamy Soil– The ideal garden soil! Loam is a balanced mix of clay, sand, and silt, providing good drainage, moisture retention, and nutrients. This type of soil supports a wide variety of plants and is found in many well-maintained gardens.
Rocky or Stony Soil– This type of soil can make digging a challenge. It drains well but often lacks organic matter, so adding compost and topsoil helps improve its texture and fertility.
Peaty Soil– Dark, rich, and high in organic matter, peaty soil is found in wetland areas. It holds a lot of moisture, which can be beneficial, but may need drainage improvements for most garden plants.
Chalky Soil– Found in some limestone-heavy areas, chalky soil tends to be alkaline and drains well. It can limit the growth of acid-loving plants.

Soil pH Level

Soil pH is crucial when selecting garden plants because it affects nutrient availability and plant health. Some plants thrive in acidic soil, while others prefer neutral or alkaline conditions. If the pH is too high or too low, essential nutrients may become unavailable, leading to poor plant growth. Testing your soil pH is vital to growing healthy plants.

Here’s a breakdown of soil pH levels:

Acidic Soil
Range: 4.5-6.5
Acidic soils are often found in regions with high rainfall, as rain can leach out calcium and other alkaline minerals. These soils can be rich in organic matter but may lack nutrients like calcium and magnesium.
Neutral Soil
Range: 6.5-7.5
Neutral soil is ideal for most garden plants, as nutrients remain readily available. Many vegetable gardens and ornamental plants thrive in neutral soil.
Alkaline Soil
Range: 7.5-8.5
Alkaline soils, found in areas with low rainfall or limestone-rich soil, can lead to nutrient deficiencies, especially iron, which causes leaves to turn yellow (chlorosis).

Consider Climate and Hardiness Zones

Use the USDA Hardiness Zone map to determine which plants are suitable for your region’s temperature range. Choose plants that can withstand your area’s seasonal extremes, whether it’s harsh winters or scorching summers.

Evaluate Moisture Levels

Some plants thrive in consistently moist environments, while others prefer dry, drought-like conditions. Specifically consider:

Boggy or Wet Areas
Drought-Prone Areas

Size and Growth Habits

Understand the mature size and growth habits of plants to avoid overcrowding and maintenance issues. Plant trees and shrubs where they have room to grow without interfering with structures or other plants.

Examples of Right Plant, Right Place

Eastern US HARDINESS ZONES 5 – 9

Sunny, Dry Spots:
- Plants:Lavender, Sedum, Yarrow, Russian Sage
- Why:These plants thrive in full sun and well-drained soils.
Shady, Moist Areas:
- Plants:Hostas, Astilbe, Ferns, Japanese Forest Grass
- Why:These plants love the cool, damp environment provided by shade.
Acidic Soils:
- Plants:Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Blueberries, Camellias
- Why:These species prefer lower pH levels and will flourish in acidic conditions.
Clay Soils:
- Plants:Daylilies, Black-Eyed Susans, Switchgrass
- Why:These plants tolerate heavy, compacted soils and can handle less-than-ideal drainage.
Wetlands or Water Features:
- Plants:Cattails, Iris, Cardinal Flower, Marsh Marigold
- Why:These moisture-loving plants thrive in saturated conditions.

Landscape design and renovation are both an art and a science. Understanding your garden’s specific conditions will help in choosing plants well-suited to the existing environment. If you need assistance selecting plants for your situation, Perennial Gardens is at your service. Our plant knowledge and selection are outstanding. We can help you match the right plant to the right place, enabling you to significantly reduce maintenance, conserve resources, and promote a healthier, more vibrant landscape that can be enjoyed year-round.

Right Plant, Right Place

The Heat is On: Heat Stress and The Veggie Garden

Heat stress in plants occurs when temperatures exceed the optimal range for their growth and functional processes. This typically happens during oppressive hot spells when temperatures soar above what the plant can comfortably endure. While different plants have different temperature thresholds, heat stress is generally observed when temperatures reach 90°F or higher for extended periods.

How Heat Stress Affects Vegetable Plants

Heat stress will adversely affect vegetable plants in a number of ways, impacting their overall health, growth, and productivity. Here are the primary adverse effects:

Wilting and Water Loss
Plants lose water through transpiration, where water evaporates from the leaves. High temperatures increase the transpiration rate, causing plants to lose water faster than they can absorb it from the soil. As a result, plants often exhibit wilting, where leaves droop and stems become limp. This is a defensive mechanism to reduce surface area and conserve water.
Leaf Scorching and Sunburn
Prolonged exposure to intense sunlight and high temperatures can cause leaf tissues to burn. This is often seen as browning or scorching at the edges or tips of the leaves. Fruits and vegetables, especially those exposed to direct sunlight, can suffer from sunburn, leading to discolored and damaged produce.
Blossom Drop and Reduced Yield
Heat stress can cause flowers to drop prematurely before they have a chance to develop into fruit. This is a common issue in crops like tomatoes, peppers, and beans. High temperatures can hinder fruit set and development, leading to smaller yields and sometimes deformed fruits.
Reduced Photosynthesis
Extreme heat can inhibit photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy. When temperatures are too high, the enzymes involved in photosynthesis become less efficient, reducing the plant’s ability to produce energy. With reduced energy production, plant growth is stunted. Vegetables may grow slower, remain smaller, and produce fewer leaves, flowers, and fruits.
Nutrient Deficiency
Heat stress can affect a plant’s ability to absorb nutrients from the soil. High temperatures can alter the soil chemistry and reduce the availability of essential nutrients, leading to deficiencies. Nutrient deficiencies often manifest as yellowing leaves, poor growth, and reduced overall vigor.
Increased Susceptibility to Pests and Diseases
Stressed plants emit signals that can attract pests. Additionally, weakened plants are less able to defend themselves against pest attacks. Heat stress can compromise a plant’s immune system, making it more susceptible to diseases. Fungal and bacterial infections can take hold more easily in stressed plants.
Root Damage
High ambient temperatures can increase soil temperatures, which can damage root systems. Roots are crucial for water and nutrient uptake, and damaged roots can lead to a further decline in plant health.
Stress Hormones
Under heat stress, plants produce stress hormones such as abscisic acid. These hormones trigger responses aimed at conserving water and energy but can also slow down growth and reproductive processes.

Managing Heat Stress

Now that we know how heat stress can severely impact the health and productivity of vegetable plants, utilizing the proper prevention and mitigation strategies can help gardeners protect their crops from the adverse effects of high temperatures.

Soil Management
Help prevent anticipated heat stress by adding organic matter to improve the soil before planting. Incorporate compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to improve its structure, fertility, and water-holding capacity. Healthy soil rich in organic matter can retain moisture better and provide a steady supply of nutrients to plants.Regularly test your soil to ensure it has the necessary nutrients and proper pH level for optimal plant growth. Add soil amendments based on test results to address any deficiencies and maintain a balanced nutrient profile.
Planting Tips and Techniques
Select vegetable varieties that are more resistant to heat stress. Plant vegetables with adequate spacing to ensure good air circulation. This reduces humidity around plants and lowers the risk of fungal diseases. Proper spacing also allows roots to spread out and access more soil moisture and nutrients.Plant crops early in the season so they can mature before the hottest part of the year. This is especially useful for cool-season vegetables. Plant in succession to ensure that not all plants are at the same stage of growth during peak heat periods. This helps spread the risk and enables a continuous harvest.
Watering
Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth. This helps plants access moisture from deeper in the soil during dry periods. Water in the early morning when temperatures are cooler. This reduces water loss through evaporation and ensures plants have moisture available before the day’s heat arrives. Use a soil moisture meter to regularly check the moisture levels in the soil. This helps ensure that plants are receiving adequate water. Adjust your watering schedule based on soil moisture readings and weather conditions.Best watering practices during times of intense heat include using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver water directly to the root zone. This minimizes water waste and ensures plants receive consistent moisture. Also, keeping foliage dry helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases, which can thrive in warm, wet conditions.
Mulching
Apply a thick layer of organic mulch (straw, wood chips, grass clippings) around plants. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduce soil temperature, and suppress weeds. As organic mulch breaks down, it adds nutrients to the soil, improving soil structure and fertility.Try using reflective mulch (such as aluminum-coated or white plastic) to reduce soil temperatures by reflecting sunlight away from the soil. Reflective mulch can be particularly beneficial for heat-sensitive crops like lettuce and spinach.
Shading
Use shade cloth with varying densities (30%, 50%, or 70%) to provide the right amount of shade for different plants. Install shade cloth over hoops or frames to create temporary structures that protect plants from intense sunlight. You may also take advantage of natural shade by using taller, heat-loving plants to provide natural shade for smaller, more delicate plants.
Windbreaks
Plant hedges or use fences to protect your garden from hot, drying winds. Windbreaks can help reduce the rate of transpiration and moisture loss. Creating a sheltered microclimate can help maintain more stable temperatures around your plants.
Pest and Disease Management
Regularly inspect plants for signs of pest activity and disease. Heat-stressed plants are more vulnerable, so early detection and treatment are crucial. Use organic control measures as needed to manage pests and diseases effectively. Remove any dead or damaged leaves to reduce stress on the plant and improve airflow to help prevent disease. Pruning can also help redirect the plant’s energy towards healthy growth and fruit production.

Preventing and mitigating heat stress in vegetable plants requires a combination of thoughtful planning, effective gardening practices, and continuous monitoring. By implementing these strategies, you can create a resilient garden capable of thriving even during periods of high temperatures. Regular attention and adaptation to changing conditions will help ensure your plants remain healthy, productive, and less susceptible to the adverse effects of heat stress.

Deer-Resistant Annuals

Gardeners in deer-prone areas face the frustration of watching their carefully cultivated flowers become an all-you-can-eat buffet. Fortunately, many annual plants are naturally deer-resistant, offering beauty without becoming a snack.

Let’s dig in!

Deer-Resistant vs. Deer-Proof Plants

To manage expectations and make the best plant selections for your garden, it’s important to understand the difference between “deer-resistant” and “deer-proof” plants.

Deer-Resistant Plants: Deer typically avoid these due to their pungent scents, unappealing textures, or toxicity. However, “deer-resistant” does not mean “deer-proof.” During difficult times, hungry deer may still nibble on these plants out of desperation.
Deer-Proof Plants: Deer will not eat, regardless of conditions. Unfortunately, there are no annual plants that can be considered genuinely deer-proof. The adaptable and opportunistic nature of deer means no annual plant is entirely safe from hungry deer.

Conditions that make protection necessary are:

Seasonal Deer Life Stages: Deer feed most heavily in the spring and summer. This is because their seasonal life stages require extra calories, such as pregnant and nursing does and young bucks growing antlers.
Seasonal Scarcity:During late winter or early spring, when natural forage is limited, deer are more likely to eat plants they would typically avoid.
High Deer Populations:In areas with overpopulation, competition for food drives deer to consume less preferred plants.
Drought:When water and vegetation are scarce, deer may browse any available greenery.
New Plantings:Recently planted annuals, or those with tender new growth, attract deer, even if the mature plant is less appealing.
Young Deer:Fawns often explore a variety of plants as they learn what is edible and what is not.

Deer-Resistant Annuals

Annuals are some of the easiest plants to grow. They provide color from spring to frost in most areas of the US and potentially year-round in the warmest parts of the country. This is great news for gardeners who love growing this diversified group yet live in deer-prone areas. There is a long list of deer-resistant annuals, most of which prefer full sun, with a smaller selection of shade-loving ones.

Full Sun

Ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum): Soft, fluffy flowers in shades of blue, white, and pink.
Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia): Upright spikes of snapdragon-like blooms in various colors.
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): Golden-yellow petals with dark centers.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Cheerful daisy-like flowers in shades of orange and yellow.
Canna Lilies (Canna spp.): Bold foliage and tropical flowers in red, orange, yellow, or pink.
Cleome (Cleome hassleriana): Spider-like flowers in pink, white, or purple with spiny stems.
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.): Delicate, daisy-like flowers in shades of pink, red, bright yellow, orange, and white.
Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria): Silvery, fuzzy foliage that adds texture.
Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana alata): Fragrant, tubular blooms in shades of white, pink, and red.
Gazania (Gazania rigens): Daisy-like flowers in vivid shades of yellow, orange, and red.
Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa): Round, clover-like blooms in purple, pink, orange, red, and white.
Lantana (Lantana camara): Clusters of small, brightly colored flowers that attract pollinators.
Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena): Unique, airy flowers in blue, white, or pink surrounded by lacy foliage.
Marigolds (Tagetes spp.): Bright yellow, orange, and red blooms with a strong scent.
Salvia (Salvia spp.): Upright flower spikes in shades of red, purple, and blue.
Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus): Tall spikes of flowers in a range of colors.
Verbena (Verbena spp.): Clusters of small, brightly colored flowers in purple, pink, and red.
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.): Vibrant, daisy-like flowers in almost every color.

Partial Shade to Shade

Begonia (Begonia spp.): Waxy leaves and blooms in red, pink, white, or yellow.
Caladium (Caladium spp.): Large, colorful foliage in shades of green, pink, and white.
Persian Shield (Strobilanthes dyerianus): Striking, metallic purple foliage.
Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima): Low-growing plants with fragrant clusters of tiny white, purple, or pink flowers.
Wishbone Flower (Torenia fournieri): Small trumpet-shaped flowers in purple, blue, and white.

Protecting Annual Plants

All annuals, even deer-resistant ones, even though they are not the favorite fodder of foraging deer, will require protection. This protection can come in the form of repellent techniques and products as well as planting strategies.

In the Garden

Use Repellents:
Spray plants with commercial or homemade repellents. Reapply after rain or heavy watering.
Install Barriers:
Use deer netting or fencing around vulnerable beds. Position taller, deer-resistant plants around the edges of your garden or yard to create a natural barrier.
Apply Predator Urine:
Urine from deer predators like coyotes and wolves will mimic a threat to deer.
Incorporate Mixed Plantings:
Interplant highly aromatic, deer-resistant plants with more susceptible ones to confuse deer.
Employ Scare Techniques:
Consider adding motion detector lights and sprinklers to frighten off deer. A loud dog will work as well.

In Containers:

Choose Elevated Locations:
Place containers on porches, decks, or patios, which are less accessible to deer.
Use Deer-Resistant Companion Plants:
Combine vulnerable plants with deer-resistant varieties in the same container.
Protect with Covers:
Drape lightweight netting to shield container plants during peak browsing times.
Move Containers as Needed:
If deer pressure worsens, move pots to a secure area, such as a garage or screened porch. Plant coasters make this method easier.

Deer-resistant annual plants can help you enjoy a vibrant, low-maintenance garden even in high-pressure areas. By understanding the limitations of deer resistance, combining strategic plant selection with protective measures, and recognizing the conditions that influence deer browsing, you can create a landscape that balances beauty and resilience. Whether planting in garden beds or containers, the right choices and tactics will keep your flowers flourishing and your frustration at bay.

Deer Resistant Annuals

Combining Mulch & Stone in Your Landscape

Landscaping is more than just planting flowers and laying down fresh grass; it’s about creating a space that feels tailored to your home and lifestyle. That’s why savvy homeowners are increasingly incorporating the artful blend of mulch and decorative stone into their outdoor designs. The right balance of these two materials can transform a bland backyard into a dynamic oasis, one defined by contrast, texture, efficiency, and lasting curb appeal. But why does combining mulch and stone work so well? And what are the expert strategies that set a standout landscape apart? Whether you’re redesigning your front yard, building a back patio, or refreshing an established property, we will help you maximize every inch of your outdoor space.

The Ultimate Combination

Mulch and stone complement each other beautifully when applied with intention. They allow for a landscape that’s as functional as it is visually captivating, letting you highlight focal points while providing practical solutions for plant health and maintenance.

Why Blend Mulch & Stone?

Understanding the unique benefits of each material enables you to create a balanced approach tailored to your specific needs.

Advantages of Mulch:

Enriches the soil naturally as it breaks down, feeding plants over time
Retains moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering
Improves soil structure, aeration, and temperature regulation
Shields plant roots from extreme temperatures
Suppresses weeds naturally in garden beds and vegetable plots

Perks of Stone:

Provides long-lasting ground cover with minimal maintenance
Suppresses weeds effectively when used with landscape fabric
Resists decomposition, fading, and pest attraction
Withstands heavy rainfall and frequent foot traffic
Supports drainage and suits fire-prone areas and pathways

The Inspiration Zone

The key to a seamless landscape is not just mixing mulch and stone, but knowing where and how to use each for impact and practicality. Here are a few design ideas from our professionals to inspire your project:

Tree Rings & Island Beds

Surround tree trunks with a ring of decorative stone for unbeatable weed control and durability. Extend a band of mulch beyond the stone to nurture shade-loving plants, such as hostas or azaleas. This approach keeps moisture in the soil where it’s needed, discourages weeds, and protects the trunk from damage caused by mowers and trimmers.

Flower Beds with Defined Borders

Fill planting beds with a rich layer of mulch to support root health and moisture retention. Outline the beds with decorative stone or natural rock to create an elegant, maintenance-friendly frame. The stone acts as a barrier, keeping mulch where it belongs and reducing soil erosion after heavy rainfalls.

Entryways, Walkways, & Patio Edges

Use stone as the base for walkways and patios, providing durability and a tidy, compact surface. Add mulched beds or planters along the sides, overflowing with colorful perennials, ornamental grasses, or evergreen shrubs. This approach softens hardscape edges and welcomes guests with natural beauty right at your doorstep.

Fire Pit & Outdoor Entertaining Zones

Construct fire pit areas with non-flammable materials such as gravel, crushed limestone, or river rock. These choices create a safe gathering spot and resist flying sparks. Border the space with lush mulched plantings to introduce color, privacy, and seasonal interest.

Dealing with Slopes

Sloped landscapes are challenging for mulch, which can wash away in heavy downpours. Place stone on steep gradients, dry creek beds, or along drainage channels where erosion is a concern. On flatter sections, use mulch to enhance plant health and soil quality. This segmentation ensures that each area receives the material best suited to its needs.

The Expert Touch

Achieving a professional, long-lasting result requires attention to detail and a thoughtful approach. Here are some pro tips for attaining your desired effects:

Invest in Quality Edging
The boundary between mulch and stone should be crisp and well-defined. Install metal, composite, or stone edging that rises at least 2 – 4″ above the ground to prevent materials from spilling or migrating into each other. Curved edging is ideal for organic flow, while steel or paver edging suits modern, geometric designs. Proper edging saves you hours of cleanup each season.
Keep Mulch Away from Drainage
Avoid placing mulch directly in stone-lined drainage trenches, French drains, or dry creek beds. Organic mulch can be swept away or clog these areas, impacting your drainage effectiveness. Always use stone downstream or in high-flow areas, and keep mulch reserved for planting zones.
Choose Complementary Colors & Textures
Highlight your landscape’s best assets by pairing distinct yet harmonious colors. For bold contrast, try jet-black mulch with pale white or tan stones. For a warmer palette, combine brown mulches with red lava rock or multi-toned river stones. Gray slate or limestone pairs beautifully with natural cedar mulch.
Plan for Maintenance & Longevity
Place stones in areas with heavy traffic, persistent weeds, or high exposure, but use mulch in garden beds or around delicate root systems for easy annual top-ups.
Remove Old Material Before Switching
If you plan to switch from one material to another in any area, clear away the old before applying the new. Decomposing mulch under a layer of stone can cause the base to shift, leading to an uneven surface and persistent weed growth. A clean start ensures stability and prevents headaches down the road.

The Material Matchup

We offer a wide variety of mulches, including hardwood, cedar, pine, and dyed blends, as well as a range of stones. Each type brings its own benefits:

Hardwood Mulch: Ideal for most flower and shrub beds thanks to its slow decomposition and dark, rich color.
Cedar Mulch: Great for vegetable gardens and around play areas, as its natural oils help repel insects.
Pea Gravel & Crushed Granite: Excellent for walkways and as a base for pavers, offering solid footing and an attractive texture.
River Rock: Works well for drainage swales, dry creek beds, or as a feature in modern garden designs.

Customizing which mulch or stone you use by area enhances the beauty and utility of your property, ensuring each zone gets the functionality it deserves. For large spaces or special soil conditions, consider mixing different types for visual interest and peak performance.

The Transformation Effect

Combining mulch and decorative stone isn’t just about good looks. It’s a forward-thinking landscaping technique that allows you to:

Conserve water and save on irrigation
Suppress weeds naturally
Encourage healthy soil for robust plants and lawns
Cut down on chemical use
Reduce long-term landscape maintenance
Create dramatic visual contrast and texture for all-season appeal
Increase your home’s value and marketability

With thoughtful planning and the right supplies, your landscape can achieve the perfect balance of beauty, function, and ease of care. Discover how the innovative use of mulch and stone transforms not just your yard, but the way you enjoy your home.

Ready to create a landscape that thrives year-round and draws compliments from every corner of the neighborhood? Visit Perennial Gardens today for a complete selection of mulch, decorative stone, edging supplies, and all the advice you need.

mulch and stone landscaping

Combining Mulch and Stone

Zinnias for a Riot of Summer Color

With their bright, cheerful flowers, long bloom period, and easy-going nature, Zinnias are an old-fashioned and time-honored favorite in the summer garden. These vibrant annuals, native to Mexico, come in a riot of colors, a variety of forms, and a range of sizes, making them incredibly useful in an assortment of sunny summertime settings.

Usage

Versatile zinnias have multiple uses in the garden.

Garden Beds and Borders

Zinnias are perfect for garden beds and borders, adding a splash of color and attracting pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Here’s how they can be used:

Mixed Borders: Combine zinnias with other annuals and perennials to create a dynamic and colorful border. Their bright hues and varied heights can create layers of interest.
Themed Gardens: Zinnias are available in a range of colors, making them suitable for color-themed gardens, such as all-white, hot-colored (reds, oranges, and yellows), or pastel gardens.
Pollinator Gardens: Zinnias attract pollinators, so they can be an essential component of a pollinator-friendly garden, helping to support local ecosystems.

Containers and Window Boxes

Zinnias are excellent choices for containers and window boxes, offering vibrant displays that can be moved and rearranged as needed. They thrive in these environments with proper care:

Patio Pots: Plant zinnias in containers on patios, decks, or balconies for a burst of color and to create a welcoming atmosphere.
Window Boxes: Compact zinnia varieties, like those from the ‘Profusion’ or ‘Zahara’ series, are ideal for window boxes, providing bright, eye-level blooms.
Hanging Baskets: Some zinnia, especially shorter-stature varieties, can even be used in hanging baskets, enhancing the vertical garden.

Cutting Gardens

Zinnias are a staple in cutting gardens due to their long, sturdy stems and vibrant, long-lasting blooms. Here’s how to make the most of zinnias in a cutting garden:

Variety Selection: Choose tall varieties like ‘Benary’s Giant’ or ‘State Fair Mix’ for their large, showy blooms and long stems, perfect for floral arrangements.
Continuous Blooms: Regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming, ensuring a steady supply of fresh flowers for cutting.
Arrangements: Use zinnias in mixed bouquets with other summer flowers or let them shine alone in simple, elegant arrangements.

Edging and Pathways

Zinnias can be used to line pathways or edge garden beds, providing a clear boundary and a vibrant visual guide through the garden:

Low-Growing Varieties: For edging, choose shorter varieties like ‘Lilliput Mix’ or ‘Thumbelina,’ creating a colorful border that doesn’t obstruct the view of other plants.
Pathway Borders: Plant zinnias along garden paths to guide visitors and enhance the overall aesthetic of your garden walkways.

Companion Planting

Zinnias are excellent companion plants, offering various benefits to their neighbors:

Pest Control: Zinnias attract beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings, which help control garden pests such as aphids and whiteflies.
Vegetable Gardens: Plant zinnias alongside vegetables to attract pollinators and improve crop yields. They are particularly effective when paired with tomatoes, beans, and squash.

Mass Plantings

For a dramatic and bold statement, mass plantings of zinnias can create a sea of color:

Flower Beds: Fill entire flower beds with a single variety or mix of zinnias for a cohesive, eye-catching display.
Empty Spaces: Plant zinnias in perennial gardens or flower borders to fill in the empty space after other plants have finished blooming.

Planting

One of the most alluring features of Zinnias is their easy-care nature. For earlier blooms, they can be sown directly into the garden after the last frost date or started indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Depending on the variety, seeds take 75 to 90 days to maturity and therefore may be directly sown as late as three months from the first frost date in the fall.

Choose a location with full sun, as zinnias need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily to thrive. This annual prefers well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Amend the soil with compost if needed to improve fertility and drainage. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and space them 6-18 inches apart, depending on the variety, to ensure good air circulation and reduce the risk of disease. Provide support for tall varieties.

Care

Zinnias should be watered regularly, but avoid overhead watering to prevent leaf spot and powdery mildew. Water at the base of the plant to keep foliage dry. To further reduce disease, plant zinnias to allow for good air circulation. Mulch around plants to conserve soil moisture and reduce weed pressure. Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer every 4-6 weeks to promote healthy growth and abundant blooms. Remove spent flowers regularly to encourage continuous blooming and prevent the plant from setting seed too early. Monitor the plants for common pests like aphids and spider mites. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil if infestations occur.

Favorites

Perennial Gardens favorite zinnias include:

Benary’s Giant Series (Z. elegans): Known for its large, double blooms that can reach up to 6 inches in diameter. Available in a wide range of colors. Height: 3-4 feet.
Cactus Mix (Z. elegans): Spiky, cactus-like petals, in a mix of bright color, adds unique texture to the garden. Height: 2-3 feet.
Lilliput Mix (Z. elegans): Small, double blooms in a wide range of colors with a compact and bushy growth habit. Height: 18-24 inches.
Oklahoma Series (Z. elegans): Disease-resistant with double and semi-double flowers, 2 inches in diameter, on sturdy stems. Height: 3 feet.
Profusion Series (Z. elegans): Compact plants with prolific, single to semi-double blooms, in a variety of colors with excellent disease resistance. Height: 12-18 inches.
Queen Series (Z.elegans): Flowers in sophisticated and unique color palettes, blending shades of softly muted reds, greens, oranges, yellows, and pinks. They are a designer’s favorite cut flower for their unusual color combinations. Height: 2-3 feet.
Star Series (Z. angustifolia): Star-shaped single blooms in bright colors. Ideal for borders and containers. Height: 12-18 inches.
State Fair Mix (Z. elegans): A mix of large, semi-double to double flowers in vibrant colors, making them great for cut flowers. Height: 3-4 feet.
Thumbelina Mix (z. elegans): A charming, dwarf, double to semi-double flowering zinnia variety that produces vibrant, multi-colored blooms. Height 6-8 inches.
Whirligig Mix (Z. elegans): Striking, bi-colored blooms with a whimsical appearance. Height: 18-24 inches.
Zahara Series (Z. marylandica): Excellent disease resistance with continuous blooms, available in vibrant colors like coral, yellow, and white. Height: 12-18 inches.

Zinnias are a garden favorite for a reason. Their bright, cheerful blooms and low-maintenance nature make them an excellent choice for adding color and interest to summer garden beds and containers. With such a wide variety of cultivars to choose from, there is bound to be a zinnia to suit every gardener’s taste and color palette.

Zinnias Summer Color

Top Ten Vegetable Garden Mistakes (and how to correct them)

Starting a vegetable garden is an exciting endeavor for a new gardener, but it can come with its fair share of challenges. Here are ten common mistakes that beginners make and tips on how to avoid them:

Choosing the Wrong Location
Ensure your veggie garden gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Avoid areas with poor drainage or where water pools after rain.
Ignoring Soil Health
Test your soil before planting to understand its pH and nutrient levels. Add organic matter like compost to improve soil structure and fertility and fertilizer to supplement deficiencies. Add garden sulfur or lime to correct the soil pH as necessary.
Overcrowding
It’s tempting to plant too much in a small space, but overcrowding leads to competition for nutrients and sunlight and allows for poor air circulation. Follow spacing guidelines on seed packets and plant labels.
Not Planning Ahead
Plan your garden layout and crop rotation to maximize space and minimize disease and pest issues. Consider companion planting to improve yields and naturally deter pests.
Neglecting Watering Needs
Consistent watering is crucial, especially during dry spells. Avoid overhead watering to prevent diseases, and water deeply to encourage long, vigorous root growth. It is best to water in the morning. However, watering in the evening is better than not watering at all.
Forgetting about Weeds
Stay on top of weed control from the start. Mulching can help suppress weeds while retaining moisture and regulating soil temperature.
Skipping Pest Management
Monitor your garden regularly for signs of pests and diseases. Use natural methods like handpicking, insecticidal soaps, or neem oil to control pests without harming beneficial insects.
Not Paying Attention to Frost Dates
Planting too early or too late can lead to crop failure. Consult a local planting calendar to determine the best times to plant in your area based on the USDA Hardiness Zone’s first and last frost dates.
Ignoring Planting Depth
Planting seeds too deep or too shallow can affect germination rates, and planting young vegetable plants too deep or too shallow can kill them. Follow seed packet instructions for proper planting depths and plant seedlings at the same level that they are planted in market packs or pots.
Overlooking Maintenance
Regular maintenance, such as pruning, trellising, fertilizing, and, yes, even harvesting, is essential for healthy plant growth and high yields. Stay attentive to your garden’s needs throughout the growing season.

Look more like an experienced gardener than a novice! By avoiding these common mistakes and staying proactive in your garden care, you’ll be well on your way to a successful and bountiful vegetable garden experience.

vegetable garden mistakes beginners

A Guide to Home-Grown Blackberries

Transform your garden into a sanctuary of sweetness with home-grown blackberries. Picture plucking ripe, juicy berries straight from the vine, indulging in their unmatched flavor while reaping their nutritional benefits. With minimal maintenance, these resilient plants provide a convenient, sustainable source of delicious fruit, fostering a deeper connection with nature and promoting a healthy lifestyle through gardening and proper nutrition.

Blackberry Dictionary

Some terms used in blackberry cultivation are not immediately understood by the home gardener. Our blackberry dictionary is meant to help you better understand these words to support your blackberry selection and cultivation efforts.

Cane: Refers to the long, woody stems that emerge from the crown of a blackberry plant. Canes can be either primocanes or floricanes, depending on their age and stage of growth.

Floricane: Refers to the second-year canes or shoots of a blackberry plant that have already borne fruit. Floricanes typically produce flowers and fruit in the current growing season.

Hardiness: A plant’s ability to withstand cold temperatures.

Primocane: Refers to the first-year canes or shoots that emerge from the crown of a blackberry plant. Primocanes typically do not produce fruit in their first year but develop fruiting laterals that bear fruit in the subsequent year.

Suckers: Adventitious shoots that emerge from the base of a blackberry plant, often arising from the roots or crown. Suckers can contribute to the spread of blackberry plants but may need to be managed to prevent overcrowding.

Thornless: This term describes blackberry varieties that lack thorns or have greatly reduced thorniness, making them easier to handle and harvest compared to thorny varieties.

Tipping: Tipping is pruning or removing the terminal portion of primocanes to encourage lateral branching and increase fruiting potential. It can help improve fruit yield and quality in some blackberry varieties.

Trellis: A support structure consisting of posts, wires, or other materials used to support and train blackberry canes for better growth, airflow, and ease of harvest.

These terms are commonly used in blackberry cultivation and can help growers better understand the practices and techniques involved in successfully growing blackberries.

Choosing the Right Varieties

With adequate care, blackberries can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 10. However, some varieties are more suited to colder or warmer climates within this range.

Varieties for Warmer End of the Range (Zone 8-10)

Prime-Ark Freedom: This variety is known for its early fruiting on first-year canes. It produces large, sweet berries and has good disease resistance.

Prime-Ark: This variety, like Prime-Ark Freedom, is a primocane-fruiting blackberry bred to produce fruit on first-year canes.

Osage: Osage is a thornless blackberry that produces high yields of large, flavorful berries and is highly resistant to diseases.

Kiowa: Kiowa is a thorny blackberry variety known for its excellent flavor. While it can tolerate a range of climates, it tends to perform well in warmer regions.

Natchez: Another primocane-fruiting variety, Natchez is known for its high yields and excellent flavor.

Varieties for Colder End of the Range (Zone 5-7)

Arapaho: Arapaho is a thornless, early-ripening blackberry variety that can handle colder temperatures well. It’s known for its excellent fruit quality.

Chester: Chester is a late-ripening blackberry variety. It produces large, sweet fruit and is known for its vigorous growth.

Triple Crown: Triple Crown produces large, flavorful berries and is resistant to many diseases.

Navaho: Navaho is a thornless blackberry variety bred to produce large, sweet berries and is known for its winter hardiness.

Darrow: Darrow is a classic blackberry variety. It produces medium to large fruit with a rich flavor and is well-suited for fresh eating or processing.

Hull Thornless: Hull Thornless produces large, sweet berries. It’s known for its vigorous growth and adaptability to a range of soil types.

Planting and Care Tips

Now that you’re familiar with blackberry terms and recommended varieties for your climate, it’s time to get planting! Follow these tips for successful growth and abundant harvests:

Site Selection
Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil for planting blackberries. Avoid low-lying areas prone to frost or poor drainage, as these can hinder plant growth.

Soil Preparation
Before planting, amend the soil with organic matter such as compost or aged manure to improve drainage and fertility. For optimal blackberry growth, aim for a slightly acidic soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Planting Technique
Space blackberry plants 3-4 feet apart in rows, ensuring adequate airflow and room for growth. Plant them at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers, and water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

Pruning and Training
Blackberries require regular pruning to remove old canes and promote new growth. In late winter or early spring, prune out any dead or diseased canes, as well as any weak or overcrowded growth. Train the remaining canes onto a trellis or support system to encourage upright growth and easier harvesting.

Watering and Fertilizing
Keep blackberry plants consistently moist, especially during hot summer months. Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring before new growth emerges, top-dress with compost, and add a layer of mulch to retain soil moisture and suppress weeds.

Harvesting and Enjoying
Blackberry plants typically begin bearing fruit in their second year and reach peak production by their third year. Harvest ripe berries when they easily detach from the stem with a gentle tug, usually from mid to late summer. Enjoy your freshly picked blackberries straight from the vine, or incorporate them into delicious recipes such as jams, pies, or smoothies.

Try adding blackberries to your fruiting favorites list this year. Not only are blackberries considered a superfood, loaded with vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants, but they are also easy and enjoyable to grow.

Home-Grown Blackberres

Beat the Bolt: Keeping Lettuce Lush and Leafy

In the busy, beautiful, and bountiful universe of vegetable gardening, there’s a particular plant that always holds a special place in our hearts: lettuce. No wonder we love lettuce; it is early planted, quick and easy to grow, available in almost unlimited varieties, tasty, and loaded with numerous nutritional benefits. Absolutely! We love growing lettuce! Yet, we often find ourselves locked in a battle against a frustrating foe: bolting.

What is Bolting?

Bolting refers to the process where a plant, such as lettuce, prematurely produces a flowering stalk. In the case of lettuce, this means the plant shifts its energy from leaf production to seed production, resulting in bitter-tasting leaves and a decline in overall quality.

Why Does Lettuce Bolt?

Several factors can trigger bolting in lettuce:

Temperature: Lettuce prefers cool temperatures, typically between 60-70°F. When exposed to prolonged periods of high temperatures, especially above 80°F, lettuce may bolt as a survival mechanism to produce seeds before the heat stress becomes too severe.
Day Length: Lettuce is sensitive to changes in day length. Certain varieties are more prone to bolting as the days lengthen in the late spring or summer, especially if they are exposed to extended periods of daylight.
Stress: Any form of stress, such as drought, overcrowding, or nutrient deficiencies, can trigger lettuce to bolt as it tries to ensure its survival by producing seeds.

How to Avoid Lettuce Bolting

You’ve done the hard work of planting and nurturing your lettuce patch. We’ve put together some strategies to help avoid bolting for as long as possible.

Plant at the Right Time: Plant lettuce early in the season when temperatures are cooler and days are shorter. This helps minimize the risk of bolting.
Provide Adequate Shade: If you’re growing lettuce in warmer climates or during the summer months, provide some shade to protect the plants from intense sunlight and heat.
Maintain Consistent Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist to prevent stress from drought, but be careful not to overwater, as soggy soil can also stress the plants.
Harvest Promptly: Harvest lettuce regularly to encourage new leaf growth and prevent the plants from diverting energy into flowering. Harvesting outer leaves rather than whole heads can also prolong the plant’s lifespan.
Succession Plant: Instead of planting all your lettuce at once, stagger plantings every few weeks to ensure a continuous harvest and reduce the likelihood of all plants bolting simultaneously.
Choose the Right Varieties: Opt for lettuce varieties less prone to bolting, such as “bolt-resistant” or “slow-bolt” varieties. These are specifically bred to withstand higher temperatures and longer daylight hours.

Slow-Bolt and Bolt-Resistant Lettuce Varieties

Batavian Lettuce: Also known as French crisp or summer crisp lettuce, Batavian varieties like ‘Muir,’ ‘Nevada’ and ‘Ice Queen’ all offer a balance between the crisp texture of iceberg lettuce and the flavor of leaf lettuces while being slow to bolt.

Iceberg Lettuce: Some folks must have iceberg lettuce, and although it is not necessarily known for its heat tolerance and bolting resistance, ‘Ithaca’ and ‘Summertime’ both fit the bill as slow-bolters.

Romaine (Cos) Lettuce: In addition to ‘Jericho’ and ‘Parris Island,’ other slow-bolting romaine lettuce varieties include ‘Green Towers’ and ‘Cimmaron.’

Summer Crisp Lettuce: Varieties like ‘Summertime’ and ‘Fusion’ are specifically bred for their ability to resist bolting in hot weather while still offering a crisp texture and mild flavor.

Butterhead (Bibb) Lettuce: Varieties such as ‘Buttercrunch’ and ‘Summer Bibb’ are slow bolting alternatives to traditional Bibb lettuces, offering a sweet, buttery flavor and crisp texture in both red and green varieties.

Baby Leaf Lettuce: Depending on the source, these come in a variety of mixed types. However, they are harvested when young, think miniature gourmet greens, thus avoiding bolting.

Oakleaf Lettuce: Oakleaf lettuces are known for their delicate, lobed leaves and mild flavor. Varieties like ‘Salad Bowl’ and ‘Royal Oakleaf’ are slow to bolt, making them excellent choices for summer salads.

Red Leaf Lettuce: While red leaf lettuces can bolt more quickly than green varieties, some slow bolting options include ‘Shirane Sky’ and ‘Ruby Sky,’ which retain their color and flavor in hot weather.

Green Leaf Lettuce: Excellent bolt-resistant green leaf lettuce includes ‘Grazion’ with its dark-green wavy leaves and ‘Starfighter’ with its great flavor and shiny green leaves.

Perennial Gardens offers an outstanding collection of slow-bolt and bolt-resistant lettuces in seed packets and plugs so you can harvest and enjoy lush, leafy lettuce all summer long.

Succulent Container Garden

Have you noticed how a container garden can really jazz up a front entryway, back deck or porch? Perhaps you’ve thought twice about including this addition to your plantscaping because you just don’t have time every day to water.

Cheer up! You can plant a container with succulents (plants with fleshy, or thickened, leaves, stems or roots) and you will not have to worry about watering frequently. Succulent container gardens are relatively carefree. They’re so easy that you don’t have to limit yourself to just one. Remember, if one container makes a statement, several will create a conversation!

Let’s begin…….

Exposure
Full sun is a must for all succulents! If your viewing location has less than adequate sun, place your succulent garden in a full sun area for the majority of the day and move to your desired location when you have company or time to enjoy it yourself. Remember to move it back out into the sun when company leaves.

Containers
Because succulents do not have extensive root systems, your chosen containers may be shallow. Too much soil can hold excessive water causing the succulent’s roots to rot. Perhaps a strawberry pot would make the perfect focal point at your front door, although many front doors look great with a single shallow round planter sitting on the stoop. If you have several steps to the door, try a pot on each step. How do you want your front entrance to say “hello?”

Think about varying the heights of your containers. Perhaps your containers will require a pedestal or something else for elevation. This could be an inverted pot, a table, shelf or even pot feet. You may even consider hanging your container. Whatever you choose, it’s important to remember succulents require excellent drainage. Therefore, the containers must have holes.

Soil
All succulents need fast draining soil. We carry pre-mixed soil used specifically for succulent container plantings. You may also use a general all-purpose potting mix and add additional perlite and/or sand.

Plants
When making your plant selection, let your imagination go wild.

Use a thriller, a filler, and a spiller…and you’ll never go wrong

Succulents come in an extensive variety of colors, striking shapes, and varying sizes. As when planting any container, or creating a bouquet, evaluate plant color, texture and shape when making your selections. You may feel overwhelmed when choosing your plants. If you can’t decide, here is a simple “recipe” for planting one 16″ container to be seen from all sides. Maybe it will give you some ideas:

1-thriller (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire‘) planted in the middle.
3-fillers (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) to surround the thriller and provide texture or color contrast
5-spillers (Sempervivum arachnoideum) to drape over the container’s edge.

As an extra bonus, many succulents bloom, adding extra beauty.

Topdress
After planting, gently brush off any soil from the leaves. Add more interest by “topdressing.” This layer of material will give your container garden a finished appearance. Desert type plants look great with a thin layer of light tan-colored gravel. Create sparkle with sea-glass toppings or add a clean contemporary look to Zen-like or Asian inspired plantings with smooth black river stones. Stop by and look for other materials to add bling to your container garden.

Have fun!

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Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses can reduce your watering costs, lessen your mowing time and increase the interest level of your garden. No matter what your garden’s needs, there’s a grass to solve it. From short ground covers to tall bamboo, there’s something for every site.

About Ornamental Grasses

Generally defined as “a plant with narrow upright leaves growing from the base,” ornamental grasses come in different sizes, shapes, colors and with differing growing requirements. While they may be cut to the ground each year, they are not mowed regularly, and work well as borders, specimen plants or part of coordinated beds. When choosing an ornamental grass for your site, consider the following:

Size
Some beautiful grasses are just inches tall. Others, such as bamboo, grow to 20 feet or even taller. A shorter grass is a perfect edge for a walkway or to border a flowerbed, while a taller grass provides screening or background height.

Deciduous or Evergreen
The winter form of a grass can be very different from its summer form. Evergreen grasses do not die back in the winter, their form remains the same. Winter colors may change and provide interest. Deciduous grasses die back or lean over. Consider the plant’s use when choosing between deciduous and evergreen. If using a grass as a screen, deciduous may not be a good idea.

Running or Clumping
Clumping grasses stay where they planted, and as they grow, the overall plant width increases. However, a running grass sends runners through the ground to grow another grass plant. Sometimes this can be up to 6 feet away. This is advantageous when using the grass as a groundcover or trying to fill in a larger area. Clumping grasses can be divided if they become too large for the site.

Color
Ornamental grasses are available in many colors, including variegated shades with contrasting edges. Additionally, many grass colors change throughout the year. Blues, reds, greens, yellow and variegated shades work well in different situations. A gold or white-hued grass can brighten a dark corner, whereas a dark green grass may be a perfect backdrop for smaller colorful plants.

Growing Requirements
Sun, water, wind and soil requirements vary among grasses. Some require full sun; others grow best in the shade. Some grasses are ideal in rain gardens or wet soils, while others thrive best in drought conditions. Some don’t mind a breezy location, while others need to be more protected. Some prefer a rich, organic soil, while others will look great even in poor soils. And, of course, there are grasses for every range in between.

Before going to the garden center to purchase an ornamental grass, make a list of your requirements. You may want a short grass to line a walkway in full sun with sandy soil. Alternatively, you may need a grass to fill a dry and shady corner. Perhaps you would like to watch a grass clump emerge in the spring, grow to 6′ tall, change colors through the summer and harvest dry seed heads for an autumn arrangement. Choosing the correct grass ensures the beauty of your garden for years to come.

Let Me Out! Moving Houseplants Outside for the Season

Are your house plants looking a little peaked after a long winter of being cooped-up inside? Getting out for some fresh air during the warm months is healthy for all living things, including your potted plants. It is important to move plants safely and thoughtfully, however, or else you risk shock and damage that can destroy your carefully cultivated houseplants. With the right steps, you can move your houseplants to outdoor accommodations for the spring and summer while still protecting them from unfavorable conditions, pests and wildlife.

Tips for Moving Houseplants Outdoors

When you are ready to move your houseplants outside…

Wait until there is no longer any danger of freezing or frost before setting houseplants outside.
Before you place plants outdoors, acclimate them to the spring temperatures. Set them outside for short periods of time and bring them inside at night.
Over a period of two weeks, lengthen the plants’ outdoor exposure time gradually. Continue to bring plants inside at night if temperatures are not consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
Do not place plants directly in the sun or else the leaves may burn.
Set plants on pot feet or a suitable plant stand to prevent sow bugs.
Arrange plants in groups for increased humidity, being careful to promote good air circulation within the foliage.
Check soil often for moisture levels, as warmer days and breezes may dry pots out more quickly.
Empty saucers of excess water to prevent root rot and minimize standing water that will attract biting insects.
While away on vacation, use a self-regulating plant watering system.
Mulch the surface of the soil to retain moisture and keep weed seeds from invading the soil.
Keep squirrels from digging in pots by placing a layer of crushed oyster shells or chicken wire on top of the soil.
Use a slow-release fertilizer to save you time and energy on frequent fertilizing. Or, use a water soluble fertilizer every other week. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions so as not to burn tender plant roots.
Groom plants by clipping off damaged stems, yellow leaves and spent flowers. This will also improve air circulation and sunlight reach.
Trellis or stake plants that get too tall to prevent them from flopping over.

As they enjoy their time outdoors, you’ll see healthier, more robust houseplants with plentiful new growth and vigor. Why not give all your plants a great spring and summer getaway by moving them outdoors?

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