Monthly Archives: March 2025

Cultivating A Passion for Garden Photography

Does your gardening passion include taking photos of your plants and progress?

Capturing the beauty of a garden through photography is a gratifying experience that allows one to freeze moments of natural splendor in time. With cell phones, it couldn’t be easier. Whether it’s the vibrant hues of blooming flowers, the delicate dance of butterflies, or the serene charm of a sun-dappled pathway, garden photography celebrates the wonders of nature. Sharing these snapshots of joy with others can be equally rewarding. One outstanding way to showcase garden photos is through social media platforms like Instagram or Facebook, where fellow gardeners can admire and engage with the images. Another means is creating a dedicated blog to narrate the stories behind each photograph, sharing gardening tips, and fostering a sense of community among fellow green-thumbs. Furthermore, printing, and framing garden photos can transform them into tangible keepsakes, perfect for preserving the serenity and beauty of nature for perpetuity. Ultimately, sharing garden photos not only spreads joy but also inspires others to appreciate and cultivate their own slice of natural paradise.

We want to assist you if you’d like to increase your cell phone garden photography skills. Capturing beautiful snapshots of your garden just takes a little knowledge, practice, and patience. Let us introduce you to a number of useful cell phone photography tips from experts to help you take stunning photos to showcase the vibrant beauty of your garden.

  • Optimize Lighting
    • Shoot during the golden hours, early morning or late afternoon, for soft and warm light ideal for capturing the beauty of your garden.
    • Overcast days can provide even lighting, minimizing harsh shadows.
  • Clean Your Lens
    • Before you start shooting, be sure to wipe the lens of your phone with a clean cloth to remove any dirt or smudges that could affect image clarity.
  • Focus on Composition
    • Utilize the rule of thirds to create visually appealing compositions. Imagine dividing your frame into a grid of nine equal sections and placing key elements along the lines or at their intersections.
    • Experiment with different angles to find the most flattering view.
  • Utilize Depth of Field
    • Most smartphone cameras come with portrait mode or a similar feature that allows you to create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making your subject stand out.
    • Experiment with selective focus to draw attention to specific elements within your garden, such as a single flower or a butterfly resting on a leaf.
  • Mind Your Background
    • Be mindful of what’s in the background of your photos. Look for clean, uncluttered backgrounds that won’t distract from your main subject.
    • Experiment with different angles and perspectives to find the most pleasing background for your composition.
    • Choose backgrounds that complement your flowers without distracting from them.
  • Capture Details
    • Capture the intricate details of your plants, details that make your garden unique. Get up close and personal to depict the elaborate patterns of petals, the delicate veins of leaves, or the tiny insects that call your garden home.
    • Use the macro mode on your smartphone camera, if available, to obtain stunning close-up shots with incredible detail.
  • Embrace Natural Elements
    • Incorporate natural elements such as water droplets, dew-covered leaves, or beams of sunlight filtering through the trees to add visual interest to your photos.
    • Feel free to get creative and experiment with different ways to incorporate these elements into your compositions.
  • Catch Seasonal Changes
    • Document the various stages of your flowers, from bud to bloom. This adds a dynamic element to your photography.
    • Showcase the seasonal transformations of your garden.
  • Steady Shots
    • Keep your phone steady to avoid blurry images. Use both hands or lean against a stable surface.
    • If your phone has manual settings, experiment with adjusting the exposure for better results.
  • Play with Perspectives
    • Experiment with different perspectives – shooting from above, below, or at eye level.
    • Capture the essence of your flowers by including wider shots that showcase the overall beauty.
  • Edit Wisely
    • After taking your photos, spend some time editing them to enhance their beauty further, taking advantage of built-in editing tools or third-party apps to enhance your photos.
    • Experiment with adjustments to brightness, contrast, saturation, and sharpness to fine-tune your images and make them pop.
  • Practice Patience
    • Remember that great garden photography takes knowledge, practice, and patience. Take the time to explore your garden thoroughly, waiting for the perfect moments to seize it in all its glory.
    • Don’t be discouraged by initial failures or setbacks. Keep experimenting, learning, and refining your skills, and you’ll soon be capturing stunning garden photos with ease.

Sharing plant and garden photos on social media is not just about showcasing botanical beauty; it’s a vibrant celebration of nature’s artistry and a delightful way to connect with like-minded enthusiasts. Whether it’s a stunning array of blossoms in full bloom or the intricate patterns of a succulent garden, each snapshot captures a moment of joy and inspiration. The fun lies in the camaraderie of sharing tips, tricks, and successes, fostering a sense of community among green thumbs worldwide. From swapping gardening hacks to marveling at rare plant finds, social media platforms become virtual gardens where friendships flourish amidst the foliage. Moreover, sharing these snapshots can inspire others to embrace the therapeutic joys of gardening, fostering a ripple effect of appreciation for the natural world. So, next time you capture the radiance of your garden, share it with the world and watch the seeds of inspiration bloom.

Garden Photography

Garden Photography

Garden Photography

Early Spring Gardener’s Calendar

* Plan your summer vegetable and herb garden. We offer a wide selection of seeds that include all of your favorite annuals, perennials, vegetables and other novelties as well as many hard-to-find selections. Inventory your pots and flats and discard unusable ones. Make a list of the supplies you will need. Have your garden soil tested for nutrient content. We offer a variety of do-it-yourself soil test kits.

* Prune woody plants while dormant, including fruit trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs and vines. Limit pruning of spring-blooming trees and shrubs to the removal of sucker growth and rubbing or broken branches. Spray trees and shrubs with year-round horticultural oil to reduce insect population.

* Sharpen, clean and oil tools and lawn mowers. Begin heavy annual pruning of shrub roses as new leaves appear.

* Plant pansies, English daisies and primrose as soon as the earth is workable. Plant strawberry plants. Sow cool-season vegetables and herbs in the garden.

* Start spring cleanup and begin major lawn work. Remove debris, dethatch your lawn or aerate compacted areas to improve water penetration.

* Spray needles and limbs of Arborvitae, Cryptomeria, false cypress, fir, hemlock, Juniper, pine, yew and spruce (except blue spruce) for spider mites with year-round horticultural oil.

* Apply fertilizer to perennials and roses with. Feed berry bushes, grapevines, rhubarb and asparagus a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer before new growth begins. Fertilize trees and shrubs.

*Apply crabgrass preventer with fertilizer to feed the lawn and control crabgrass. Do not use on newly seeded lawns.

* Continue spring cleanup. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds. Apply corn gluten or a pre-emergent herbicide with fertilizer specified for gardens and scratch it in to prevent future weeds. Do not use in gardens where you will be direct seeding.

* Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3? high.

* Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees & shrubs after the flowers fall.

* Dig and divide crowded early spring bulbs after they finish blooming. Enrich the soil with bone meal.

* Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials.

* Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm-season vegetable and herb seeds.

* Place gro-thru sets over peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Creating a Meditation Space in Your Garden

Gardening can be a relaxing, therapeutic hobby as you nurture seedlings, encourage growth and bring your harvest to fruition. But if you just want to take a moment to breathe, reflect and center yourself, it isn’t necessary to get out the garden clogs, sharpen your hand tools or get dirt under your fingernails. Creating a peaceful meditation space in your garden is easy, and can turn any garden into your own private sanctuary.

The Need for Peace

As our lives get ever busier with hectic schedules and cramped appointments, it may seem impossible to have any time for thoughtful reflection or meditation. Furthermore, smaller living spaces and more crowded urban areas can make it seem equally impossible to have any space for solitary peace. Without the ability to relax, we’re faced with skyrocketing stress in our lives, along with a host of different health problems such as tension headaches, high blood pressure, depression, obesity and more. More and more studies, however, are demonstrating that time spent in nature is beneficial for reducing stress and tension, and there’s no better place to easily enjoy nature than in your own garden.

Your Peaceful Purpose

Before creating your meditation space, you need to plan what you want to use it for in order to ensure you have enough room and all the right touches for your peaceful retreat. Meditation can mean something different to everyone – you might prefer a place for quiet, contemplative prayer, or you could be interested in an outdoor space for yoga practice. For some people, a restful space for coloring or painting is their ideal meditation spot, while others may want a natural niche for reading or journaling. Creating or listening to music may be part of your meditation practice, or even a cozy spot for an outdoor nap. Whatever means peace and relaxation to you, it can be incorporated into your garden.

Eliminating Distractions

Once you know how you will use a meditation space in your garden, it is essential to eliminate other distractions and interruptions from that space. Unwanted noises, glaring streetlights, unsavory sights and even unpleasant smells can interrupt meditation and disrupt your relaxation, but it is easy to plan your gardening to eliminate those difficulties. For example, a green wall or trellis can be used to block an unsightly view, and the plants on it will help muffle noises. You could also consider a small fountain for the soothing tinkle of running water to block traffic or neighborhood noises. Climbing, clinging vines can be used to cover structures with greenery to increase the natural feel of the space. Opt for arbors or pergolas that can help create comfortable shade and define the space without completely blocking sunlight, and consider fragrant flowers nearby if unwanted aromas are invading your garden.

Adding Joy to Your Garden Space

Once your meditation area is structured and distractions are minimized, it is time to add your own personal joy into the space. What brings joy to the space will vary from garden to garden and even from season to season, but it should be a personal choice and something that helps draw you into the space. Consider…

  • Seating
    In order to enjoy your meditation space, you will need a place to sit and relax within it. This may be a comfortable bench, a cozy chaise lounge, a soothing hammock or any other type of seating. A chair-sized boulder can be a natural alternative, or you may opt for a more whimsical swing to add a dash of fun to your personal space.
  • Sights
    You’ve taken steps to block sights you don’t want to see in your garden, but a good meditation space will also include sights you want to look at. A bird feeder or bird bath can invite beautiful feathered friends to share your space, or you might prefer a lovely piece of garden art, a gazing ball, plants in your favorite colors or even unique mulch or paving stones in a therapeutic pattern.
  • Sounds
    Pleasant sounds can help add a focal point to your meditation space, allowing you to focus on unique tones to help center yourself. A wind chime, waterfall fountain or even a way to bring your favorite music outdoors can be a wonderful addition to a peaceful meditation space.
  • Water
    Water can serve several purposes in a meditation space. Flowing or splashing water provides natural white noise, and the sparkles of the water are ideal for meditative gazing or creating soothing reflections. Consider different aquatic options, such as a small stream or brook, a weeping rock, a fountain or even a reflecting pool. You can even opt for a small pond for goldfish or koi if you desire.

Above all, remember that there are no strict rules for creating your personal meditation space. Whatever brings you peace and joy can be part of your design, and it can change as your tastes and preferences change. Garden meditation spaces can vary as much as any other part of the garden, but each one helps nurture our green spirits.

Meditation

Meditation

Meditation

Meditation

What is “pH?” Why Is It Important?

Devised in 1909, the pH scale measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution. The scale ranges from 0-14. Pure water is “neutral” and has a pH of 7, midway between 0 and 14. If a solution has a low concentration of hydrogen ions, the rating will be a higher number and is considered basic or alkaline. Likewise, a high concentration of hydrogen ions rates a lower number and is considered acidic.

What pH Means to Your Garden

There are four important reasons to monitor your soil’s pH level:

  1. pH affects the availability of other nutrients in the soil. If the nutrients are not available because they are chemically bound to something else, plants can’t use that nutrient.
  2. A high or low pH level in the soil allows some plant diseases to multiply more quickly, infecting an entire landscape or garden.
  3. Most organisms living in the soil have pH preferences. For example, earthworms are not as plentiful in acidic soil.
  4. Most plants have specific pH requirements to flourish. Those specific requirements are what the plants need to absorb nutrients more efficiently and resist pests more effectively.

Where Soil pH Occurs

Acidic soil generally occurs in heavy rainfall areas, as the rain will pull acidic compounds from the air and allow them to leach into the soil. Alkaline soil, then, is more common where there is less rain. However, this is just a generalization and neighbors across the street from each other may have a large pH difference. Reasons could include the origin of topsoil brought in, the tillage done in the area and prior occupants’ gardening habits. Even simple changes like how drain spouts are positioned or a watering schedule can impact pH.

The pH Your Plants Need

Most plants will grow well in the neutral zone of 6.5-7.0. However, some plants grow best in specific soil pH conditions. Interestingly, hydrangeas grow well in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils, but the flowers will be blue in acidic soil or pink in alkaline soil. The colors and flavors of fruits and vegetables may also vary somewhat depending on the soil’s pH, even if the plant will thrive in a wider range.

This chart illustrates how slight pH changes can dramatically impact which plants will thrive in certain soils…

Highly Acidic Conditions

(pH between 5 and 6)

Slightly Acidic Conditions

(pH between 6 and 6.5)

Slightly Alkaline Conditions

(pH between 7 and 7.5)

Rhododendrons Blueberries Arrowwood Viburnum
Azaleas Magnolias Box Elder
Camellias Ferns Locust
Pieris Firs Philadelphus
Astilbe Viburnum davidii Hellebores

As you see, pH can influence your gardening choices. Knowing the pH of your soil is the first step towards understanding your soil and improving your garden. By knowing the pH, you may choose the best plants for your site. You may also decide to amend your soil to increase or decrease the pH to grow a wider variety of plants.

We offer several inexpensive and easy-to-use pH test kits. We also offer amendment advice and can help you choose the best plants for your soil’s condition. Stop in for pH help today and we’ll help you make the most of the natural acidity or alkalinity of your soil, or else help you turn that soil into just the pH you desire!

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ph_1

ph_2

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Growing Northern Blueberries

Like blueberries? Who doesn’t? These tasty and delightful little blue fruits are a powerhouse of antioxidants and nutrition, promoting a healthy heart, reducing inflammation, and boosting brain function. But did you know that blueberries are relatively easy to grow, do not require much space, involve minimal care, and come in a myriad of varieties? Whether you’re looking for something sweet or tart, there’s sure to be a type that will suit your taste. Let’s begin our journey to harvest an abundance of juicy blueberries conveniently from just outside the door.

Northern Blueberries

Northern blueberries are native to North America and are the most common type of wild blueberry. These berries can be divided into two main types: highbush and lowbush.

  • Highbush Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), also known as hybrid or cultivated blueberries, grow on tall shrubs, about six to eight feet high. However, there are some compact varieties that grow three to four feet tall. Highbush are the blueberries most often grown commercially due to their larger size and yield. An added bonus is that due to their height, bending is not required to harvest. Plan on planting highbush blueberries four to five feet apart.
  • Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium), also called wild blueberries, grow on shorter shrubs, about two feet tall, and produce smaller yet highly flavorful berries. They are hardier than highbush and do well in a variety of soils as long as they are well-draining. Plan on planting lowbush blueberries two to three feet apart.

Planting

Blueberries may be planted in either the spring or fall, with the best availability being in the spring. Perennial Gardens can recommend the most suitable highbush and lowbush varieties for your garden. Once you’ve made your selection, it’s time to plant. All blueberries have the same cultural requirements:

  • full sun, but will tolerate light shade, well-draining soil, lots of organic matter, and acid soil.

Select an appropriate planting site and amend the soil with a generous amount of compost, but, most importantly, test your soil pH. Blueberries prefer a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5. If your soil is too alkaline, Perennial Gardens will recommend the type and amount of soil acidifier needed to adjust it. This process will take place over time so as not to shock the plant, but it is best done 1 year before planting. The addition of organic matter such as compost and peat moss will also help soil pH as well as drainage and soil nutrition.

Care

Water blueberries well after planting, and make sure that they receive at least one inch of water per week. Mulch the area around the bushes to keep the soil moist and weeds at bay. Do not feed blueberries at planting time, as the roots are sensitive to fertilizer. Once established, however, blueberry bushes should be fertilized two times a year: once in early spring and again in late spring. Use an organic product recommended for feeding Rhododendron and Azaleas.

Pruning

  • Highbush blueberries – prune annually in late winter/early spring after the plant has been in the ground for about three years. Prune by removing about one-third of the oldest branches thicker than a pencil or that are sporting no new buds or flowers. This will help keep your plants healthy and promote vigorous new growth each season.
  • Lowbush blueberries – should be pruned beginning in year six or seven. At that time, the plant may be cut back to the ground every two years to keep it vigorous and productive.

Tip

We love blueberries, and so do the birds! Draping bushes with bird netting at fruit set will ensure that you and your family enjoy the delicious berries and not our fine feathered friends. Growing blueberries in the home garden can be a rewarding experience, and with so many varieties to choose from, you are sure to find one that suits your needs. Whether you opt for high-bush or low-bush blueberries, both offer unique flavors and benefits that make them an ideal choice for any gardener.

Blueberries

Blueberries

Blueberries

What Is the Difference Between an Annual, a Perennial, and a Biennial?

All living creatures, including plants and flowers, have expected lifespans. Recognizing the differences between annuals, perennials, and biennials can help you determine the life expectancies of different garden center plants so you can choose the varieties that will work best in your garden, landscape, and containers.

Annuals

Annual plants are fairly straightforward. These plants complete their entire lifespan in just one year or growing season, from first sprouting from seeds and growing foliage, stems, and blooms to creating seeds to continue the next generation. After the plants die, they will not regrow from their initial roots, but must restart from seeds again as completely new plants. Annuals are generally faster growing and have longer bloom seasons, making them colorful showstoppers in the garden and landscape.

Common and popular annuals include…

  • Begonias
  • Cosmos
  • Impatiens
  • Marigolds
  • Petunias
  • Zinnias

In addition to many popular flowers, most garden vegetables are also grown as annuals, though some of them would botanically be classified as perennials if they were allowed to remain in place for multiple years.

Perennials

Perennial plants are those with a lifespan that lasts at least three years, though they can live significantly longer as well. Perennial foliage may die back during the winter months but will regrow from dormant roots the next season. These plants often take longer to mature and may have shorter blossom times than annuals, but they can provide many years of beauty in the landscape.

Familiar perennials include…

  • Coneflowers
  • Coral bells
  • Daylilies
  • Peonies
  • Phlox
  • Sedum

In addition to these elegant and popular flowers, hedges and trees are also perennials. These plants are staples in the yard and provide a foundation for any landscape.

Biennials

Biennials fall between annuals and perennials with a two-year life cycle. During their first year, these plants establish leaves, roots, and stems. Though they may die back slightly over the winter, they will rejuvenate in the spring and grow flowers in their second year, maturing to seeds before the plants die completely.

Familiar biennial flowers include…

  • Canterbury bells
  • Columbine
  • Dame’s rocket
  • Forget-me-nots
  • Foxglove
  • Hollyhocks

Because these plants do not bloom in their first year, patience is essential to enjoy their beauty in their second year. Planting biennials in two successive years can ensure the plants enhance the landscape in multiple years.

Choosing Annuals, Perennials, and Biennials for Your Yard

Once you understand plant lifespans, you can more easily choose the plants that will give you a landscape you love. When choosing plants, larger perennials can create a stunning foundation or border for your yard, including showstopping specimen plants and shade trees. Smaller perennials can fill in larger spaces in flowerbeds and edging, while annuals add brilliant color to pathways, edges, and very visible spaces, including porch pots and containers.

Biennials can be spectacular transition plants, particularly if you may plan on expanding your landscaping beds in the future, or want to fill in a space temporarily before adding a new deck, porch, or otherwise expanding your home or outdoor living space. Biennials are also great choices if you want to enjoy a changing landscape without as much work each year, because you can enjoy the plants for two years before they need replacing. Many biennials are self-seeding making them great additions to the cottage garden.

Ultimately, a landscape that includes a thoughtful mix of annuals, perennials, and biennials will showcase different colors, textures, and growth patterns for stunning visual interest. New cultivars are developed every year, and greenhouses often have the latest plants and newest showstoppers on display. If you plan a mixed landscape, you will have the freedom to enjoy new plants as they are introduced and you will always have new plants to be excited about.

Caring for Annuals, Perennials, and Biennials

While the differences between annuals, perennials, and biennials may seem clear, different plants can have different lifespans based on the exact cultivar, gardening zone, climate variations, and even microclimates within an individual landscape. Furthermore, the care plants receive can ensure they reach their maximum potential for the longest, most productive life. YOUR GARDEN CENTER (insert IGC here) experts can provide recommendations and guidance for the best plants based on your preferences and needs and assist you in choosing plants that will thrive in the conditions of your yard, including soil type, sunlight levels, fertilization, moisture levels, and other needs. To provide each type of plant the best care, consider…

  • Annuals – Provide nourishing fertilizer formulated for the type of plant, and weed around them carefully so these fast-growing plants don’t need to compete for moisture and nutrition. Soaker or dripper hoses can also provide great watering as these plants flourish.
  • Perennials – Be sure these plants have adequate space in the landscape to reach their full size. Good quality mulch can help protect the roots each winter so the plants remain healthy for the next spring.
  • Biennials – Take care to provide appropriate fertilizer for these plants in their different life stages, and mulch around those with basal leaves to provide good winter protection during their dormancy.

Adding annuals, perennials, and biennials to your landscape will not only help you learn about plant lifespans, but you will enjoy a more varied and richly diverse landscape, with plants that provide beauty through the years.

Difference

Difference

Difference

Difference

Difference

Difference

Tremendous Turf

The benefits of turf grass as a ground cover are numerous and often undeclared or overlooked. In recent years, turf has gotten a bad reputation due to the belief that a beautiful lawn requires a lot of hard work and overuse of dangerous chemicals. This is a misconception and the benefits of turf can far outweigh the concerns, particularly when you care for your turf properly and responsibly.

The following is a list of the many advantages that our lawns provide. This list was provided by and may be found, along with other helpful turf information, at TheLawnInstitute.org.

Environmental Benefits

  • Cools the Air
  • Produces Oxygen
  • Filters Air & Reduces Pollution
  • Captures & Suppresses Dust
  • Recharges & Filters Groundwater Supply
  • Reduces Storm Water Runoff
  • Controls Soil Erosion
  • Retains and Sequesters Carbon
  • Assists Decomposition of Pollutants
  • Restores Soil Quality

Community & Human Health Benefits

  • Enhances Community Pride & Social Harmony
  • Offers a Natural Playing Surface for Recreation
  • Provides a Safe Surface & Reduces Injuries
  • Promotes Outdoor Activity & Exercise
  • Improves Physical & Mental Health
  • Relieves Stress
  • Lowers Allergy-Related Problems
  • Dissipates Heat & Cools the Environment
  • Reduces Glare
  • Diminishes Noise Pollution
  • Minimizes Nuisance Pests
  • Compliments Overall Landscaping
  • Preserves Natural Wildlife Habitat

Economic Benefits

  • Increases Property Values
  • Reduces Home Cooling Costs
  • Provides a Low-Cost Ground Cover
  • Serves as a Fire Barrier
  • Improves Visibility & Deters Crime
  • Boosts Human Productivity

With so many benefits to healthy, luxurious turf, won’t you give your lawn another chance? We can help – from suggestions for revitalizing a weak lawn to proper mowing tips to fighting weeds and pests, plus all the tools, seed, fertilizers and amendments you need to improve your lawn – our experts can help you make the most of every square inch of your turf!

Turf

Turf

Needled Evergreens for a Shady Space

Evergreens are a very important addition to the winter landscape. During the coldest months of the year, when most other plants have been stripped of their leaves or have died back to the ground, evergreens are the stronghold in the garden that provide stunning texture and color, shelter for winter wildlife and the hope of spring for everyone.

Choosing a broad-leafed evergreen for a shady location in the garden is simple. There are so very many to choose from: Rhododendron, azalea, camellia, aucuba and cherry laurel are just the beginning, and there are many more options for any size or shape of shady space. It’s a different story when it comes to hunting for a needled evergreen for that darker corner of the landscape, but it is not impossible.

Popular needled evergreen options for shady spaces include…

  • Canadian Hemlock (Tsuga canandensis) – Broadly conical and gracefully branched, reaching up to 75 feet high.
  • Dragon’s Eye Pine (Pinus densiflora ‘Oculus-draconis’) – Part shade. A very unique, asymmetrically shaped pine with a pale halo on the needles.
  • Dwarf Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtuse ‘Nana Gracillis’) – Slowing growing, compact plant with dark green scale-like leaves.
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) – Light shade. Graceful, pyramidal tree with bluish-green scaly foliage and exfoliating cinnamon-colored bark. Growing to 65 feet tall.
  • Japanese Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata) – Light Shade. Needles are thick and succulent, whorled around the branches.
  • Nootka False Cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) – Light to part shade. Narrowly pyramidal growing up to 60 feet tall.
  • Russian Cypress (Microbiota decussate) – Part shade to full shade. Low to the ground forming a rosette of soft, graceful branches. Great ground cover for a shady location.
  • Spreading English Yew (Taxas bacata repandans) – Part shade to full shade. Three feet high and mounding. Great foundation plant in front of windows or at the back of borders.
  • Upright Japanese Plum Yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’) – Part to full shade. Four foot tall, stiff, linear form.
  • American White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) – Light to part shade. Scale-like foliage formed into flat plane fans. Grows up to 40 feet tall.
  • False Arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata) – Light to part shade. Pale green leaf scales with white undersides. Grow up to 65 feet tall.

Not sure which of these evergreens may do well in your landscape? There are different cultivars to explore, and our experts can help you make the best choice for your landscaping needs.

Shady Space

Shady Space

Shady Space

Dealing With Winter Damage

It’s early spring – time to survey the damage that winter has produced. In some areas, shrubs may still be hiding under piles of frozen snow, and could be crushed or compacted. Severed tree limbs may lie scattered across the landscape, and bark may be torn and stripped from trunks. It’s difficult to know what to tackle first, but fortunately, much of the damage is easily correctible.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Trees

When surveying and repairing winter damage, start with your trees – they are generally the most valuable additions to your property. As you survey the damage – broken limbs, torn bark, a tilting trunk – ask yourself “Is this tree salvageable or should it be removed?” If the damage is extensive, or you are unsure about how the damage may affect the tree’s overall health or future growth, hire a professional for a consultation. Replacing a severely damaged tree with a younger one, perhaps a type you like even better, may be the best solution.

If a limb is broken somewhere along its length, or damaged beyond repair, employ good pruning practices and saw off the remaining piece at the branch collar, being careful not to cut into the trunk or leave a stub. Sometimes a fallen limb may strip bark off the tree trunk. To repair this damage, cut the ragged edges of the loose bark away from the stripped area to firmly affixed healthy bark. Nature will take care of the rest. Even if the trunk of the tree is split, the tree may still be saved. For large trees, repairing this type of damage usually requires cabling and bracing done by a professional. If the tree is still young, the crotch may be pulled tightly together and tied or taped until the wound eventually heals.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Shrubs

Shrubs can suffer the same damage as trees, including broken limbs and stripped bark. Heavy snowfall can crush smaller shrubs, and larger varieties may have their trunks or centers split from heavy snow or ice accumulation. Most shrubs are resilient, however, and slowly regain their shape as the weather warms. If branches are bent but not broken, you may tie them together to help them along and prevent further damage from late-season storms. Do not tie tightly and remove twine after about a year. Completely broken branches may be pruned away, but take care to maintain the shrub’s form and balance, keeping in mind its growth pattern so it will not look lopsided or ungainly. Again, if the damage is severe, you may need to replace the plant.

The harder the winter is, the more of a beating trees and shrubs will take. With prompt attention in early spring, however, you can easily undo much of the damage and help your landscape recover with ease.

Winter Damage

Winter Damage

Troubleshooting Common Houseplant Problems

Even with the best care, any well-loved houseplant can develop problems. By spotting those problems quickly and knowing how to correct them, however, you can keep all your houseplants thriving.

Top 10 Common Houseplant Problems

Different plants have different sensitivities to pests, diseases, and environmental conditions. The top problems that can impact a wide variety of popular houseplants include…

  1. Brown Leaf Tips
    When leaves are browning from the tip inward, it is often signals an uneven watering schedule, dry air, or overfeeding. While tip browning can’t be reversed on a leaf once it exists, adjusting the watering schedule and improving local humidity can prevent it from getting worse and from new leaves developing it. Water with distilled water or aged tap water and reduce the overall feeding schedule. The tips can be trimmed with sharp scissors or snips to improve the plant’s appearance but leave a thin brown margin on the trimmed foliage to avoid further stress.
  2. Stretching or Leggy Growth
    Vigorously growing plants may stretch or grow lengthy stems, creating a loose structure and shaggy appearance rather than keeping a compact shape. This is typically due to a lack of light, and the plant is stretching out to reach a better light source. This is easily corrected by moving the plant into a better position, such as closer to a window or to a better angle relative to incoming sunlight. Adding supplemental light can also encourage bushier growth and reduce stretching. Rotating plants regularly can ensure they grow evenly in all directions.
  3. Yellowing or Pale Leaves
    Plants may have yellowing leaves for several reasons. If older, lower leaves are yellowing and falling off, this may be part of the plant’s normal aging process. If, however, the entire plant is yellowing or upper, new leaves are paler than expected, this is often due to too much light. Changing the plant’s position, such as moving it further from a window or changing to a darker space, can help restore richer foliage colors. Using draperies to diffuse stronger light is another option.
  4. Curling Leaves
    If foliage edges are curling up or new leaves are not unfurling as expected, this can indicate low humidity or underwatering. Setting a regular watering schedule can help you give the plant a more adequate water supply to meet its needs and increasing the humidity around the plant can lower the overall stress on the foliage. Consider using a humidifier, misting the plant regularly, or setting the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, but be sure the pot isn’t sitting directly in the water or it could lead to root rot.
  5. Root Rot
    A long period of overwatering or waterlogged soil can foster root rot, where a plant’s roots soften and are unable to uptake nutrition effectively. To correct root rot, the plant must be repotted in well-drained soil. Rinse the roots well before replanting and snip off rotted portions to remove the fungal infection. If you are reusing the same pot, be sure it is cleaned and sanitized before putting the plant back or the infection could recur. Be sure to use clean snips and sanitize when through.
  6. Wilting
    General wilting and listless, limp foliage, drooping, or weak stems could be a sign of many houseplant difficulties. Underwatering and chronic dehydration are the most common causes of wilting, but it can also be caused by stress from overwatering, root rot, or becoming root bound. To correct the problem, it is best to check for each cause and correct each one as needed.
  7. Scorched Leaves
    Foliage with a burned appearance, not just brown tips but throughout the leaves, is suffering from too much powerful light or fertilizer burn. If the plant is in a direct, sunlit area, moving it to an area of more diffuse, indirect light can minimize the problem. If overfeeding is the cause, reduce feeding and be sure fertilizer is properly diluted so it won’t cause burn-like spotting. Plant fertilization should be reduced in the winter months, this is a time when plant growth slows down substantially.
  8. Spotted Leaves
    Houseplants may develop peculiar spots on their leaves, which could be from spills on the plant, or a bacterial or fungal disease. If the plant is in the kitchen or anywhere near an area where splattering and spills are likely, moving the plant out of reach of accidental harm can correct the problem. If a disease is the cause, infected foliage should be carefully pruned away. Improving air circulation around the plant can help it resist diseases, and watering at the base instead of soaking the foliage will minimize the risk of getting and spreading fungal infections.
  9. White Crust on the Soil
    A white crust on top of the plant’s soil indicates salt buildup. This can come from too much fertilizer, poor soil drainage, or watering with hard water. To correct the problem, scrape off the buildup and top up the pot with good quality soil, or repot the plant completely in a pot with better drainage. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant and use distilled water to avoid adding additional salts to the soil.
  10. Insect Infestation
    A wide variety of insects can infect houseplants, including aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs, scale, fungus gnats, and more. As soon as insects are noticed, isolate the infected plant to avoid spreading the pests, and carefully identify the insects so they can be combated appropriately. Good plant hygiene and care practices will help a plant avoid or withstand an insect infestation. Insecticidal soap and neem oil are both effective in combating most houseplant pests.

When a Houseplant Can’t Be Saved

There will be times when a houseplant may have extreme difficulties and it could be impossible to recover. All plants have a natural lifespan, and older plants may not recover from stress as quickly or effectively. Some plants are also more delicate than others, and even an otherwise common problem could cause irreparable damage. It is always worthwhile to try to correct common houseplant problems, and it can be helpful to bring photos of the difficulty to us for proper diagnosis and assistance. If the plant cannot be salvaged, however, it may be time to try again with a new houseplant. Instead of considering a lost plant as a failure, take it as a chance to start anew with a brand-new plant and an exciting expansion to your urban jungle.

Houseplant Problems

Houseplant Problems

Houseplant Problems

Houseplant Problems