Monthly Archives: August 2024

Joe Pye Weed: A Native Jewel

Joe Pye Weed, known botanically as Eutrochium (formerly Eupatorium), is a perennial favorite among gardeners seeking late-season, native bloomers that also encourage a variety of pollinators. Renowned for its tall stature, attractive foliage, and clusters of mauve-pink flowers, Joe Pye Weed is a staple and a jewel in pollinator-friendly gardens.

About

Joe Pye Weed is native to North America and thrives in the eastern United States and Canada, USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9. It typically grows in moist, well-drained soils along streams, in meadows, and at the edges of woodlands. This plant can reach heights of 3 to 7 feet, with some species and cultivars growing even taller. The lance-shaped leaves are arranged in whorls around sturdy stems, which can be purple or green. The flowers, blooming from mid-summer to early fall, form large, dome-shaped clusters that are particularly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.

As a native plant, Joe Pye Weed supports local ecosystems by providing nectar and pollen for pollinators. Its tall stems also offer habitat and shelter for various insects and birds. As an added benefit, it is highly resistant to deer and bunny browsing.

Joe Pye Weed Species & Cultivars

Sweet Joe Pye Weed (E. purpureum)

Typically grows 4 to 7 feet tall with vanilla-scented pinkish-purple flowers.

Cultivars:

‘Little Joe’: A compact form reaching 3 to 4 feet, ideal for smaller gardens.
‘Gateway’: Known for its robust growth and deep pink flowers, reaching 4 to 6 feet.

Spotted Joe Pye Weed (E. maculatum)

Distinguished by its spotted stems and lush, serrated leaves, growing 4 to 7 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Phantom’: A dwarf variety growing 3 to 4 feet tall with deep pink flowers.
‘Purple Bush’: Features dark purple stems and vibrant pink flower clusters.

Coastal Joe Pye Weed (E. dubium)

More tolerant of coastal conditions, typically 3 to 5 feet tall.

Cultivars:

‘Baby Joe’: A compact variety, growing up to 3 feet tall with rich mauve flowers.
‘Little Red’: Known for its red-tinged stems and bright pink flowers, reaching about 3 feet in height.

Planting & Maintenance

Planting Time: Plant Joe Pye Weed in the spring or fall, allowing the roots to establish before the extreme temperatures of summer or winter.

Spacing: Plants should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart, depending on the variety, to accommodate their mature size and ensure good air circulation, which helps prevent disease.

Light: While it can grow in partial shade, Joe Pye Weed performs best in full sun, where it will produce the most abundant blooms.

Soil: Joe Pye Weed prefers moist, well-drained soil but can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay. It thrives in slightly acidic to neutral pH levels.

Water: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first year after planting and in periods of drought. Established plants are somewhat drought-tolerant but still prefer regular watering.

Maintenance: Joe Pye Weed requires minimal maintenance. Cut back the stems to the ground in late winter or early spring to encourage new growth. Deadheading spent flowers will keep the plant looking tidy, although this is not necessary for the plant’s health.

Designing the Garden

Joe Pye Weed is a versatile, late-season perennial that offers numerous ecological benefits that make it a valuable addition to the home landscape and garden. Firstly, it is a powerhouse for pollinators, attracting a variety of bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects with its nectar-rich flowers. This supports the local ecosystem by enhancing pollination for other plants in the area. Secondly, Joe Pye Weed provides habitat and food for caterpillars and other insect larvae, contributing to the lifecycle of many species. Its deep root system helps prevent soil erosion, improve soil structure, and retain moisture, making it an excellent plant for stabilizing areas prone to erosion. Additionally, as a native plant, Joe Pye Weed is well-adapted to local climates and soil conditions, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. This contributes to a healthier, more sustainable garden environment. By planting Joe Pye Weed, gardeners can enhance biodiversity, support pollinator populations, and promote soil health.

Here are some ideas for Joe Pye’s use in the landscape garden:

Pollinator Gardens
Joe Pye Weed is an excellent addition to pollinator gardens. Its late-season blooms provide essential nectar for butterflies, bees, and other pollinators. Pair it with other native plants like coneflowers (Echinacea), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia), and milkweed (Asclepias) for a diverse and attractive pollinator haven.
Back of the Border
Due to its height, Joe Pye Weed is ideal for the back of the border in mixed perennial beds. It creates a dramatic backdrop for shorter plants and helps add vertical interest.
Meadow and Prairie Gardens
Incorporate Joe Pye Weed into meadow or prairie-style plantings, where it can naturalize and spread. Its tall, airy flower heads blend beautifully with grasses and other wildflowers.
Rain Gardens
Joe Pye Weed thrives in moist conditions, making it a perfect candidate for rain gardens. Plant it in areas that receive runoff or where water tends to collect after rain.
Cut Flowers
The sturdy stems and long-lasting blooms make Joe Pye Weed an excellent choice for cut flower arrangements. Harvest the flowers when they are fully open for the best vase life.

Joe Pye Weed, with its striking, abundant, late-season flowers, attraction to pollinators, minimal care requirements, and diversified use, is a perennial that is invaluable in the home landscape. It is a North American jewel that all gardeners in zones 4 through 9 should include in their native plant collection.

Fabulous Hydrangeas for Show-Stopping Summer Color

Hydrangeas and are widely acclaimed for their large, showy blossoms that lend fabulous color to gardens from mid- to late summer. Their luxuriant dark green foliage offers a striking background to their large round or smooth blossoms. All hydrangeas are deciduous, and it’s a sure sign of spring when their tender green leaves begin to appear. Hydrangeas are spectacular when grown as single specimens and are equally fabulous when planted in mixed shrub borders. Some of our favorites…

Climbing Hydrangea – An excellent deciduous vine with glossy leaves and cinnamon colored exfoliating stems. White flowers bloom in early July. Easily climbs on masonry, reaching 10-20’ tall.
Oakleaf Hydrangea – An upright, irregular shrub that grows 4-6’ tall. Large leaves have excellent fall color. Creamy white flowers in July. Tolerates shade well.
Bigleaf (macrophylla) Hydrangea – Blue or pink flower clusters (5-10” across) appear in August. Flower color depends on the pH of the soil. Acid soils produce blue flowers, whereas alkaline soils produce pink blossoms. In garden settings, their colors can be changed by adding either sulfur or lime, depending on the color you want to achieve. Blossoms are produced on last year’s growth, so prune just after blooming.
Pee Gee Hydrangea – A small, low-branched tree that grows 10-15’ and arches under the weight of large flower clusters. White flowers bloom in July, turning pink and then brown with the first frost, holding on through winter. Flowers appear on previous year’s growth, so prune right after flowers start to turn pink.

Mopheads and Lacecaps – Which is Which?

Before you get the urge to dash out and buy the first hydrangeas that catch your eye, it’s wise to learn the difference between “mopheads” and “lacecaps.” As peculiar as these names sound, they truly are the names designated to two cultivar groups of macrophylla hydrangeas, and understanding the difference between them can help you choose the flowers you prefer.

Mopheads
Garden hydrangeas, also known as ‘mopheads,’ feature large round flowerheads resembling pom-poms and bloom from mid- to late summer. Mopheads bloom in solid masses, their clusters often so heavy that they cause their stems to droop and bend with elegant arches.
Lacecaps
Lacecap hydrangeas bear flat round flowerheads with centers of fertile flowers surrounded by outer rings of sterile flowers. The fascinating flowerheads of lacecap hydrangeas are also somewhat reminiscent of pinwheels.

You will be delighted with the versatility of these lovely shrubs, so relax and enjoy their beauty!

Climbing hydrangea vine.

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Grasses With Gusto

Ornamental Grasses lend a unique dimension to any landscape with their texture, sound, motion and architecture. By planting ornamental grasses, you can also add multi-seasonal excitement to your landscape. Either combined with other ornamental plants or featured by themselves in “Grass Gardens,” ornamental grasses are attractive from spring until late fall and often through winter as well.

Choosing Ornamental Grasses

It can be challenging to select the best ornamental grasses for your landscape. Choose from varieties that are short or tall, upright or weeping. Foliage can be bold or fine and comes in colors ranging from green, blue-green, lime-green, gold and red to variegated with horizontal or vertical bands of white or yellow. Flower heads can be showy plumes, fuzzy foxtails or airy particles and appear from mid-summer to fall, depending on variety. Dried flowers and leaves may persist into winter, looking particularly effective against a snowy backdrop.

Depending on the conditions of your landscape and your grass preferences, there are many different types of grasses to try.

Screens Or Barriers

Taller growing varieties such as Plume Grass (Erianthus ravennae) or Giant Miscanthus (Miscanthus floridulus) can be used as effective screens or windbreaks. The wind rushing through their foliage creates added sensations of sound and movement. Even some of the medium-sized growers, such as varieties of Miscanthus sinensis, can enclose a patio or act as a barrier against wind, noise or an undesirable view.

Specimens

Many ornamental grasses also make excellent specimen plants and can turn a dull corner into a focal point of color and texture. Some of the most dramatic grasses for specimen planting include Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis gracillimus) with its graceful arching vase shaped foliage and pinkish blooms which age to cream, and Porcupine Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’) that has upright green and yellow banded stems.

Waterscaping

Water gardens and ornamental grasses go together beautifully. A grouping of grasses looks particularly effective at the water’s edge, softening the boundary between land and water. Many grasses such as Miscanthus can tolerate moist conditions, some, like sweet flag (Acorus) and Giant Reed (Arundo donax), can grow in shallow water. Sedges (Carex), which are not true grasses, although similar in appearance, are also moisture-tolerant. Look for varieties with plain, variegated or golden foliage.

Groundcovers

Grasses that are groundcover varieties spread by underground stolons rather than forming tight clumps. One such selection is Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea ‘Picta’), a fast-spreading green-and-white variegated variety, particularly useful as a groundcover in difficult areas such as slopes or even under trees that cast light shade. Give this one plenty of space! You’ll also want to try green or variegated Liriope and Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon).

Beds and Borders

Massed in groups, ornamental grasses are wonderful as a background to, or in combination with, other plantings. Try planting them with perennials such as Black-eyed Susan, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ and Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ or ‘Sunny Border Blue’ for a dynamic summer and fall interest addition to your landscape. Varieties for mass planting include Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum), whose upright delicate flowers are held above leaves that turn reddish in the fall; Korean Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis acutifolia ‘Stricta’) which yields stunning buff-colored plumes over a long period and Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) that sports maroon foxtails which age to cream in late fall. A number of different forms of Fountain Grass are available: ‘Hameln’ is a dwarf variety with creamy foxtails, while ‘Moudry’ has unusual black flowers. For edging beds and borders, plant low-growing Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca). Its steely blue clumps hold their color though winter and contrast well with pink or purple flowers or foliage.

Growing Grasses

Ornamental grasses are relatively easy to grow. A site that receives at least six hours of sun per day is best, although varieties such as Hair Grass (Deschampsia) and variegated Miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’) can grow well in as little as four hours of sun. Soil preparation, as with everything you plant, is a must, so work in plenty of organic matter such as peat moss, humus or compost. Fertilize in early spring with 5-10-5 or bone meal, when new growth is starting to show. Clumps should be cut back to within 6″ of the ground at this time, and can be divided if needed.

You’ll love the look ornamental grasses can give your landscape, and these easy-care plants can be effective at many functions in many different types of landscapes. Give them a try today!

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Crazy for Coneflowers

Beautiful and dependable, Echinacea purpurea, or purple coneflower, is the crowning glory of the summer perennial garden. A member of the Aster family, all Echinacea species are native to North America. The genus Echinacea is derived from the Greek ‘echino’ meaning hedgehog, a reference to the spiny center disc flowers.

Coneflowers are practical as well as gorgeous. They have long been used as an herbal remedy to stimulate the body’s natural immune system. Both plant roots and tops are used in the production of herbal medicines. Echinacea purpurea has traditionally been used for this purpose, but research is being conducted on the nine other species to determine their usefulness for homeopathic treatments.

Cultivating Coneflowers

Coneflowers will thrive in a sunny location, planted in well-drained soil. They are tolerant of nutrient-poor soil, heat and humidity. Echinacea purpurea grows on thick sturdy stems from 3-5 feet tall and generally does not require staking. Coneflowers are long-blooming, the flowers are fragrant and they make a long-lasting cut flower. This is one of the top ten perennials for attracting butterflies to the garden. You may deadhead plants after the blooms have faded to improve their appearance and to encourage a second, but smaller, bloom. You may also leave seed heads in place. In the summer and fall, they attract and provide food for goldfinches and other seed-loving birds. In the winter, the black spent flower heads add ornamental interest as they contrast dramatically with pure white snow.

This perennial is not invasive, but will self-seed if flower heads are left to mature. Cut plants down to the basal foliage, the low growing rosette of leaves, in the spring. Plants should be lifted and divided about every four years or as crowns become crowded.

Where to Place Coneflowers

Purple coneflower is a great addition to the back of any sunny perennial border. Its rose-purple flowers, with their coppery-orange centers, look great with ornamental grasses, Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and Sedum ‘Autumn Joy.’ Appropriate usage ideas include: cottage, meadow, prairie, wildflower, native and herb gardens, as well as butterfly gardens and any containers that serve similar purposes.

Favorite Coneflowers

America is having a love affair with Echinacea and several new cultivars are released each year, while popular favorites continue to be top choices.

Popular Echinacea Varieties

‘Baby White Swan’ – Dwarf ‘White Swan’
‘Bright Star’– Petals are pale purple-pink on the edge and darker toward disc
‘Coconut Lime’ – New for 2007, first double white coneflower
‘Doubledecker’ – Unusual two-tiered coneflower with ray petals in disc
‘Fancy Frills’ – Petals are frilled on the edge
‘Fatal Attraction’ – Vivid purple-pink flowers with 2 rows of petals
‘Fragrant Angle’ – Large, fragrant, snow white flowers
‘Green Envy’ – Unusual rounded green petals with magenta veining near the cone
‘Green Eyes’ – Magenta flower with a green center disc
‘Hope’ – Pale pink flower named in honor of a cure for breast cancer
‘Kim’s Knee High’ – Dwarf with recurved ray petals and large orange cone
‘Kim’s Mophead’ – Compact plant with white flowers
‘Magnus’ – 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year, purple-pink flowers, 3’ tall
‘Mars’ – Large orange cones surrounded by brilliant rose-purple petals
‘Merlot’ – Large rose-pink flowers on wine colored, sturdy stems
‘Pink Double Delight’ – Similar to ‘Razzmatazz’ with a more compact habit
‘Razzmatazz’ – Double, bright pink flower on very sturdy stems
‘Ruby Giant’ – Large, rich ruby-pink flowers that are highly fragrant
‘Ruby Star’ – Reddish-purple flowers held horizontally
‘Sparkler’ – Rose-pink flowers, white-splashed variegated foliage
‘Tiki Torch’ – Large, bright orange flowers
‘White Swan’ – White coneflower with downward reflexed petals

Echinacea Big Sky Series

‘After Midnight’ – Dwarf plant with brilliant magenta, highly fragrant blooms
‘Harvest Moon’ – Gold flower with golden-orange cone
‘Summer Sky’ – Bicolor flower, soft peach and rose petals
‘Sundown’ – Russet-orange with a prominent brown central cone
‘Sunrise’ – Lemon-yellow flowers
‘Sunset’ – Orange flowers with prominent brown central cone
‘Twilight’ – Vibrant rose-red with a deep red cone

Echinacea Meadowbrite Series

‘Mango Meadowbrite’ – Mango color, paler than orange meadowbright
‘Orange Meadowbrite’ – Large single blooms of rich sunset orange
‘Pixie Meadowbrite’ – A true dwarf, only 18” high, bright pink flowers

The list that we have provided is not all-inclusive, nor an accurate representation of every coneflower variety we carry. Please stop by often as we continue to provide standard, new and unusual perennials, including many new types of coneflowers.

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Daylilies… Easy to Grow, Fun to Collect!

Few perennials can match the daylily (Hemerocallis) for versatility and durability. One of the most popular perennials, daylilies have become a collector plant for novice and experienced gardeners alike. Thousands of named cultivars are trouble-free to grow and adaptable to many conditions, which makes daylily collecting fun and easy. Although each lily-like flower lasts only one day, there are always more buds to open which provide summer color and a subtly changing garden for many weeks.

Using Daylilies

Just as there are many different daylilies to try, there are many different ways to try them. Plant them individually for a pop of color, or create a mixed border with other plants or multiple daylily types. Daylilies can be a fun surprise when naturalized in a grassy area or grouped in a mass as a groundcover over larger areas. Taller varieties can even become simple screens or create gentle privacy surrounds. The creative gardener may even use multiple daylilies to create fun patterns or pictures in a themed flowerbed.

Daylily Care

Daylilies tolerate dry, poor soil, but perform best and reach their full potential in rich well-drained beds. Different cultivars have different needs for sunlight, moisture and fertilizing, and while these flowers do well even if somewhat neglected, it is best to try to meet their needs so each bloom can flourish. Some will tolerate drought and frost better than others, while certain cultivars need more attention. All are quite low-maintenance, however, and will thrive for years even in marginal conditions.

Popular Daylilies

There are too many daylily types to list – there are more than 35,000 different cultivars – but some tried-and-true selections that are always favorites include…

Hyperion – 40” tall, space 18-24” apart. Delightfully fragrant, large, 5” primrose-yellow flowers with a green throat in mid to late summer. Full sun or part shade.
Mary Todd – 26” tall, space 24-30” apart. Golden or buff 6-7” flowers on a semi-evergreen foliage. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Stella De’Oro – 12-18” tall, space 18-24” apart. Golden yellow 2-3” flowers with a green throat on a compact plant. Reblooms all summer. Full sun.
Joan Senior – 25” tall, space 24-30” apart. Near-white 6” flowers with a green throat on an evergreen plant. Blooms midseason. Full sun.
Becky Lynn – 20” tall, space 24” apart. Large, 6” rose-blend flowers with a green throat in a semi-evergreen plant. Blooms midseason, then reblooms. Full sun.
Rocket City – 36” tall, space 18-24” apart. Eye-catching, two-tone orange blossoms are up to 6” across. Blooms midseason. Full sun or part shade.

There are always more daylily types to try; come in today to see the latest, hottest, most amazing cultivars of these versatile blooms, and you’ll be eager to add more of them to your landscape.

Daylily Fun Fact:

The American Hemerocallis Society has classified daylilies by flower size. A miniature has flowers less than 3” in diameter, small-flowered cultivars have flowers from 3-4.5” and large-flowered cultivars have flowers 4.5” or larger.

Perennial Flowering Vines

Vines are valuable and versatile plants that provide a remarkable vertical display while using minimal ground space. Offering an extensive mixture of decorative foliage, flowers, fruits and fragrance, vines are generally fast-growing, relatively pest-free and require minimal maintenance.

Why Choose Vines?

There are numerous uses for vines in the landscape. They can visually soften fences, walls and trellises or dress-up a lamp or mailbox post. They will provide summer shade when grown over an arbor, gazebo frame or pergola. Vines may be used to provide privacy by screening a patio or porch and can define any outdoor living space when used to create living outdoor walls or green barriers.

Three things should be considered when selecting a vine for your garden:

Intended Use
If you want a thick barrier or screening look, opt for vines that will provide dense foliage, but if you prefer a more delicate vine, choose plants with more space in their foliage. Check flowering options, growth speed and how much training the vine will need to reach its full potential. At the same time, consider how the foliage is shed in autumn and how much care the vine may need to stay in good condition.
Planting Location
Like any plant in your landscaping, vines will have specific needs for sunlight, soil condition and watering. Also consider the size of the space where your vine will live to be sure it won’t crowd out nearby plants or be stunted in a too-small space. Condition the soil appropriately to nourish your vine, and adjust a drip system or sprinklers to provide adequate water as needed.
Vine Support
Vines need adequate support to stay upright and sturdy. Because vines climb in several different ways, support is critical. Wires, spirals, trellises, fences or arbors should support vines that use tendrils or a twining stem. Other vines attach themselves with aerial rootlets. These vines grow best on brick or stone walls. Some vines have no natural method to attach to a vertical structure and will just sprawl if not manually assisted with garden wire or string to an appropriate support.

You will want your vine to thrive for many years to come, therefore you must select the right vine for your chosen location. Use the chart below to learn about some of the more common, landscape-friendly vines you can welcome into your yard.

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Summer Lavenders

Do you enjoy making herbal or floral bouquets and wands to scent the house? Maybe you’re into the lavender cooking trend or like to infuse playful summer drinks with a floral touch. Perhaps you recognize the aromatherapy or medicinal qualities of lavender.

In other words, do you love lavender and are frustrated because the bloom season is so short?

Whatever you do with your lavender, you may have planted one and it bloomed for a few weeks. Now you think you have to wait another year to enjoy the beauty and fragrance. That’s no fun! But here’s a secret to prolong your passion during lavender season…

About Lavenders

There are actually three groups of lavenders. Members of each group bloom around the same length of time, but each group blooms at different times. By planting at least one member of each group, you can enjoy lavender from early spring to mid-summer (and sometimes even longer with careful watering).

Members of the “Non-English Lavenders” bloom from early to late spring. “English Lavenders” follow and bloom from late spring to early summer. True summer lavenders, known as “Lavendins,” continue blooming into the hottest days of summer.

Also called “English Lavender hybrids,” the varieties in this summer group are crosses between the Portuguese and English Lavenders. They all have large gray leaves, grow into large plants, and grow best in the heat. They are all very fragrant, making them welcome additions to any lavender garden.

Abriali Lavender was one of the first hybrids. It produced cosmetic-grade oil until Grosso Lavender replaced it with superior oil production. Happily, gardeners can also enjoy Grosso in their gardens, as it’s frequently available at garden centers.

White Grosso Lavender, with the same beauty and fragrance, provides a nice background for a mixed flower border. Edelweiss Lavender, a smaller white lavender, mixes nicely in the garden, without a reduction of fragrance.

Hidcote Giant Lavender and Provence Lavender are garden center favorites. Approximately the same size, the Hidcote Giant has darker flowers than the Provence, which has a longer flower wand. Sachets usually contain Provance buds because they are exceptionally easy to remove from the stalk. Other popular varieties include Grappenhall, Dutch Mill, Seal and Fred Boutin lavenders.

Lavenders In the Garden

Growing lavenders could not be easier. All thrive in full sun in warm, well-drained, average quality soil. Dampness, either through poor drainage or humidity, will kill them. They grow well in pots with good drainage and fair soil. Prune after blooming to shape the plants and promote future blooming. While lavender is drought resistant, if the soil is dry, it is necessary to water well. Water again only when the soil is dry. Using compost as fertilizer will provide critical nutrients and improve soil drainage.

Using Lavender

Lavenders are very attractive to bees. They happily buzz from flower to flower while collecting pollen. Some honey producers site their hives in the middle of lavender fields to produce lavender-scented honey. The honey’s aroma is a great way to start the day!

Drying lavender for future use is easy. Cut bundles of wands from the plants without cutting into the older woody part of the plant. Use a rubber band to hold the bundles together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry room such as an attic or closet. The darkness helps retain the bloom color. The bundle should be dry in 7-10 days.

Although lavender’s taste isn’t the same as its fragrance, lavender dishes appear in many trendy restaurants. Lavender martinis and teas, ice cream, cookies and other desserts accompany lavender-sauced meats and vegetarian dishes. Lavender is an ingredient in the herbs de Provence mix and replaces strong tasting herbs such as rosemary, thyme or mint in many cookbooks for meats, breads and general seasonings.

Some folks even use lavender as an antibacterial antiseptic to treat wounds and insect stings.

Even if you just want to enjoy lavender for the sake of its beauty and ease of maintenance, remember… Planting one of each of the three groups lets you love your lavender for three times as long. Enjoy!

Versatile Hydrangeas

Tall or short, red, pink, purple, blue, white and shades in between, few shrubs provide the versatility of hydrangeas. Generations of gardeners have loved and designed their gardens using these showy shrubs as summer privacy screens, landscape focal points and beautiful cut flowers. Now, thanks to new hydrangea introductions, there are even more ways to use them.

Discover the Newest Hydrangeas

New types of hydrangeas are being introduced every year, and these showstoppers are fast favorites among both experienced hydrangea aficionados as well as newcomers to the hydrangea craze.

‘Endless Summer’
Termed “the best new flowering shrub of the decade” by some gardeners, this cultivar has gained a reputation as the first “reblooming” hydrangea. Blooming from early summer to first frost on both new and old wood, it is unfazed by high heat or extreme cold. Now gardeners in colder microclimates can grow beautiful low maintenance 3-5’ tall and wide hydrangeas. The 8″ diameter mophead balls of light blue or pink flowers bloom the entire summer.

‘Bloomstruck’
A dwarf ‘Endless Summer’ this hydrangea grows to only 2-4’ tall and wide with pink or blue 4-5″ diameter mopheads on upright red-purple stems. Perfect for containers, in smaller gardens or in the front of cutting beds, it also graces balconies and decks. In fall, red-purple colored leaves extend the beauty.

Color Tip: Change the flower colors of ‘Endless Summer’ and ‘Bloomstruck.’ The soil pH affects the flower color of many hydrangeas. To intensify the pink color, decrease the acidity by adding hydrated lime. To intensify the blue color, increase the acidity by adding sulfur. Our staff can suggest products to help you determine your soil pH and the amount of lime or sulfur to use.

‘Quickfire’
Also known as Hydrangea paniculata, this variety blooms earlier than most other hydrangeas and has flowers along an elongated stalk. The flowers, blooming on new wood, open as white, gradually turning to pink in the summer and darker rose in the fall. The soil pH does not affect the flower color. As one of the hardiest hydrangeas, this beauty grows to 6′ tall in most soils, full sun or dappled shade and tolerates drought conditions.

‘Little Quickfire’
A dwarf form of ‘Quickfire,’ this tiny powerhouse has all the beauty and benefits of its bigger relative but in a small package. Growing only to 3-4′ tall with a slightly larger spread, this hydrangea makes a big statement in a little space when covered with blooms and can be an ideal choice to start out with hydrangeas.

‘Bobo’
Another paniculata hydrangea, this variety creates huge drama for such a little plant. Growing only to 3′ tall and wide, it’s a thriller in containers, and easily won the Gold Florall medal for best novelty plant. ‘Bobo’s early season white flowers also bloom on new wood and cover the plant on strong overhead stems. Unaffected by soil type or pH, this hardy hydrangea steals the show wherever it is planted.

No matter how you use these newcomers in your landscape – larger varieties in the back of beds or as borders, smaller options in the front or in containers – their long-lasting flowers will make you think summer truly is endless.

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All About Agastache

Agastache, commonly known as hyssop or hummingbird mint, is a delightful genus of perennial herbs and shrubs that belong to the mint family. With their striking spikes of flowers, aromatic foliage, and attractiveness to pollinators, Agastache plants have become increasingly popular among gardeners seeking low maintenance yet visually stunning additions to their gardens.

Benefits of Growing Agastache

Agastache is a dramatic and colorful perennial with benefits extending beyond its beauty.

Attracts Pollinators
Agastache flowers are a magnet for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, making them an excellent choice for pollinator gardens.
Long Blooming Period
Many Agastache varieties bloom from late spring to early fall, providing months of colorful flowers.
Low Maintenance
Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and requires minimal care, making it ideal for busy gardeners.
Aromatic Foliage
The leaves of Agastache exude a pleasant fragrance, which can repel pests and add an extra sensory dimension to your garden.
Versatility
Agastache plants are versatile and can be used in various settings, including borders, containers, and herb gardens.

Cultivating Agastache

Known for its easy-going nature, low-maintenance, and drought tolerance, Agastache care guidelines are easy to follow. All that’s required is:

Sunlight
Agastache thrives in full sun but can tolerate partial shade, especially in hotter climates.

Soil
Well-drained soil is essential for Agastache. Incorporate organic matter into the soil to improve drainage.

Watering
Water regularly, especially during the plant’s first growing season. Once established, Agastache is drought-tolerant and only requires occasional watering.

Pruning
Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding. Cut back the plants in late fall or early spring to promote new growth.

Fertilization
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring to support healthy growth.

Gardening With Agastache

Agastache can be used in garden design in a variety of ways to enhance the beauty, functionality, and ecological value of outdoor spaces. Here are several ways Agastache can be incorporated into garden design:

Pollinator Gardens
Agastache’s nectar-rich flowers make it an excellent choice for pollinator gardens. Planting Agastache alongside other pollinator-friendly plants creates a vibrant habitat for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, supporting biodiversity and ecosystem health.

Border Plantings
Agastache’s tall, upright flower spikes add vertical interest to garden borders. Planting Agastache along borders or mixed perennial beds provides structure and color throughout the growing season, creating a dynamic and visually appealing landscape.

Container Gardens
Compact varieties of Agastache are well-suited for container gardening. Planting Agastache in containers on patios, balconies, or outdoor living spaces adds color and fragrance to small-scale gardens, allowing gardeners to enjoy its beauty up close.

Herb Gardens
Agastache, particularly species like Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop), has culinary and medicinal uses. Incorporating Agastache into herb gardens provides both aesthetic value and practical benefits, allowing gardeners to harvest its leaves and flowers for teas, culinary dishes, and herbal remedies.

Rock Gardens
Dwarf varieties of Agastache with compact growth habits are ideal for rock gardens or alpine plantings. Their drought tolerance and heat resistance make them well-suited for these challenging environments, where they can add color and texture to rocky landscapes.

Wildlife Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage and nectar-rich flowers attract a variety of beneficial insects and wildlife to the garden. Planting Agastache alongside native grasses, shrubs, and perennials creates a diverse habitat that supports birds, butterflies, and other wildlife.

Cutting Gardens
Certain cultivars of Agastache are excellent as cut flowers for floral arrangements. Adding Agastache to cutting gardens allows gardeners to harvest its long-lasting blooms for bouquets and indoor displays, bringing the beauty and fragrance of the garden indoors.

Fragrance Gardens
Agastache’s aromatic foliage adds sensory appeal to fragrance gardens. Planting Agastache near pathways, seating areas, or outdoor relaxation spaces allows garden visitors to enjoy its delightful scent while strolling through the garden or lounging outdoors.

Recommended Agastache Varieties

Agastache ‘Blue Boa’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Rich violet-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Tutti Frutti’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Multicolored flowers (pink, orange, lavender)

Agastache ‘Apache Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, peach, rose)

Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Sky’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers with lavender undertones

Agastache ‘Sonoran Sunset’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sunset hues (orange, pink, lavender)

Agastache ‘Summer Breeze’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Soft pastel hues (pink, lavender, white)

Agastache ‘Honey Bee Blue’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Sky-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Golden Jubilee’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Golden-yellow foliage with lavender-blue flowers

Agastache ‘Mexican Giant’
Hardiness Zones: 7 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Black Adder’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Apricot Sprite’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 12-18 inches
Color: Apricot-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Summer Glow’
Hardiness Zones: 6 -10
Height: 24-30 inches
Color: Peachy-orange flowers

Agastache ‘Arizona Sun’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Bright orange flowers

Agastache ‘Acapulco Salmon & Pink’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 24-36 inches
Color: Salmon-pink flowers

Agastache ‘Kudos Gold’
Hardiness Zones: 4 – 10
Height: 14-16 inches
Color: Golden-yellow flowers

Agastache ‘Heatwave’
Hardiness Zones: 5 – 10
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Deep purple flowers

Agastache ‘Rosie Posie’
Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9
Height: 18-24 inches
Color: Rose-pink flowers

Versatile Agastache is a must-have plant for both new and seasoned gardeners. It offers beauty, fragrance, and ecological benefits. With its long blooming period, low maintenance requirements, and wide range of cultivars, there’s an Agastache variety to suit every garden style and preference. Consider adding Agastache to your landscape for years of enjoyment and beauty. Stop by and we’ll introduce you to the array of cultivars that we carry that are suitable for growing in our region.

Transitioning Traditional Lawns to Native Landscapes

Lush, green, well-manicured lawns… Americans are obsessed… or have been. But change is in the air.

The American Obsession

What is America’s obsession with lawns? It can be attributed to both historical and cultural factors.

Lawns hold a fascinating and ancient history. Who knew? As far back as 3000 BCE, in Mesopotamia, the concept of open green spaces around homes and temples emerged. The wealthy Babylonians and Assyrians cultivated grassy areas using irrigation systems.

The idea of manicured lawns began to take root during the Renaissance period in Europe. European aristocrats and wealthy landowners started cultivating grassy areas near their estates, often for recreational purposes like lawn bowling or as a backdrop for elaborate gardens. The tradition of the lawn was brought to North America by European settlers. Initially, lawns were limited to wealthy estates and public parks. However, by the 19th century, the rise of suburbanization and the emergence of the middle class led to more widespread lawn cultivation.

In the 20th century, the American suburbs played a significant role in popularizing the idea of the suburban lawn. The post-World War II housing boom saw the proliferation of single-family homes with neatly manicured lawns, reflecting ideals of prosperity, order, and suburban living. In the latter half of the 20th century, maintaining a lush, green lawn became ingrained in American culture. The advent of lawnmowers, sprinkler systems, and chemical fertilizers made it easier for homeowners to achieve the perfect lawn.

Americans have traditionally viewed lawns as a:

Sign of Prosperity – It’s associated with the idealized image of suburban life, where homeowners take pride in maintaining their properties to reflect a certain standard of living.
Status Symbol – Historically, having a well-manicured lawn symbolized wealth and social status. As suburbs expanded and the middle class grew, having a neat lawn became a way for homeowners to showcase their success and upward mobility.
Community Expectation – There’s a sense of social pressure within many American neighborhoods to keep up with the Joneses. Maintaining a tidy lawn is often seen as fulfilling a societal expectation and fitting in with community norms.
Recreational Necessity – Lawns provide space for outdoor activities and leisure. Whether hosting backyard barbecues, playing sports like soccer or Frisbee, or simply lounging in the sun, lawns offer a versatile outdoor living space that many Americans value.
Cultural Influence – The concept of the perfect lawn has been perpetuated through various forms of media, including advertising, television shows, and movies. These depictions often reinforce the idea that a well-kept lawn is essential for a happy, successful suburban life.
Connection to Nature – Despite being a cultivated landscape, lawns are often associated with nature and the outdoors. Many people find solace in spending time in green spaces, and a well-maintained lawn provides a sense of tranquility and connection to the natural world.

Modern Lawns

While the American obsession with lawns has deep historical and cultural roots, there’s also a growing awareness of the personal and environmental impact of traditional lawn care practices.

Evolving lifestyle choices, allocation of household funds, and personal time management all play a role in the changing suburban landscape and our love of lawns. Making an even greater contribution to this change are environmental concerns such as water usage, pesticide and herbicide contamination, fertilizer runoff, air and noise pollution caused by gas-powered lawn tools, and a new understanding of the need for biodiversity. All have prompted a reassessment of traditional lawn care practices. As a result, many homeowners are exploring native alternatives or reducing the size of their lawns in favor of more sustainable and eco-friendly options.

Transitioning Away From Traditional Lawns

Transitioning from a traditional lawn to a more environmentally friendly and sustainable landscape using native plants is a great idea. Here are some ideas to get started:

Evaluate Your Space: The first step in transitioning away from a traditional turf is to assess the amount of lawn space that you actually use and need. Traditional turf is still the clear choice for areas where lawn games are enjoyed, outdoor pet use, and such. Turn unimportant or unused traditional turf areas into native gardens. If you find a large, serene expanse of turf pleasing, consider replacing it with a native meadow or a no-mow native grass alternative.
Choose Native Plants: Research native plants well-suited to your region’s climate and soil conditions. Look for species that require minimal maintenance, attract pollinators, and provide habitat for local wildlife. Consider a mix of ground covers, grasses, wildflowers, shrubs, and trees to create a diverse and resilient ecosystem.
Plan Your Design: Sketch out a design for your new landscape, taking into account the natural contours of the land, existing structures, and any focal points you want to highlight. Group plants with similar water and sunlight needs together to optimize growing conditions and minimize maintenance. Employing a native plant landscape company will help move the transition along at a quicker pace while ensuring expertise in design, plant selection, and ongoing care.
Consider Traffic Patterns: Areas with heavy traffic patterns may be replaced with stone or gravel walkways and pathways through the native landscape gardens. Grassy gathering areas, such as those used for entertaining and grilling, may be replaced with a natural stone patio.
One Step at A Time: Depending on the size of your property, transitioning away from a traditional lawn and landscape to a native one can be overwhelming and costly. However, the long-term benefits for the greater good will outweigh these initial drawbacks. One solution is to install your plan one step at a time. Once you have your design, you may chunk out the project, accomplishing it in steps over time.
Prepare for Planting: Before planting, prepare the soil by removing existing turf and weeds. Consider using environmentally friendly methods such as sheet mulching or solarization to smother weeds and existing lawn. Amend the soil with organic matter like compost or leaf mulch to enhance fertility and drainage.
Plant Native Species: Start by planting larger trees and shrubs, then fill in the remaining areas with ground covers, grasses, and wildflowers. Be sure to space plants according to their mature size and growth habits to avoid overcrowding. Water newly planted specimens regularly until they become established, then gradually reduce irrigation to encourage deep root growth.
Mulch and Maintain: Apply a layer of organic mulch such as wood chips, tree leaves, or pine straw around newly planted areas to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Monitor your landscape regularly for signs of pests, disease, or drought stress, and address any issues promptly using natural or organic methods.

Even today, the lawn continues to be a staple of suburban landscapes, albeit with a growing emphasis on sustainability, biodiversity, the addition of more native plants, and alternative landscaping practices. From its origins in ancient civilizations to its evolution in modern society, the history of lawns reflects changing cultural values, social norms, and environmental awareness. It’s time to reduce our American obsession with lawns, change with the times, and consider transitioning to low-maintenance, environmentally friendly, sustainable lawn and landscape alternatives.